JayBoRovers 101

[Mick_Marsh]

Well, JayBoRover is on his way home.

Collecting his new pride and joy:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/556.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/DSC_4239.jpg.html)

Dinner stop:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/557.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/DSC_4241.jpg.html)

Coffee Stop:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/558.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/DSC_4244.jpg.html)

A successful (albeit late) trip so far.

[Mick_Marsh]

And the breakfast stop:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/342.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/DSC_4245.jpg.html)

We expect tonights dinner photo, Simon.

[Sitec]

And here it is... In an un cooked state!! Char Sui Pork with rice and veggies!! :D

Just spoke to the inbound team and they're at Ararat. Runnin on Petrol as its running rough on Gas.. Other than that they sound happy. :)

[Homestar]

Yep, a few issues with the gas this morning. They got a bit stuck at a set of lights in town. On petrol, a different beast and he has figured out the OD, so all ahead warp factor 9...:D

. I don't think it's a big fix on the gas - just a tweak.

[JayBoRover]

Just stopped at "WTFAW" for a quick bite, coffee and driver change. All going well - on petrol. On gas losing speed at full throttle down the hill!

[Homestar]

So, did you make it to Sitec's?

[JayBoRover]

So, did you make it to Sitec's?


Hiya Gav. Yep, we made it around 9pm. All going well. Simon is going to go over the 101 in the morning (grease the splines, look at the LPG system, etc) and then we're off on a rescue mission to Clare with a slave cylinder for a broken Landy. Quite the adventure! Thanks sooo much for your kind hospitality.

[bed_bug]

So, this thread has been quiet for a while now... I was thinking.. Has anyone started to compile a list of known 101's in Australia....? There's a few now!!



Here, I've made you a map, took me ages to colour in the sea.

The positions should be approximate. There's no personal data exposed.

If it causes offence or breaches your privacy code pls take it down.

https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit'mid=zTuH3DnkSzEg.kY45LaEQ_5Ks

[Sitec]

Well, they're west bound!!! here's the mornings shot.. It was too dark last night !!! A quick grease of the props etc and we're away in convoy.... :D

[Sitec]

We ran up to Clare in convoy, as we were headed this way to a few winery's and look at properties. It also worked in well with an AULRO Breakdown!!! A 110 stuck in Clare with a knackered clutch slave cyl! That fixed and they're mobile, we are now sat enjoying a coffee, and JayboRover has passed by Ceduna bound running on gas for now!! :)

[JayBoRover]

The run on gas didn't even make it out of the camp driveway. Stopped in Port Pirie and filled both petrol and LPG. Surprisingly large amount of LPG went in so we'll try it again on the road to Port Augusta. Cruising nicely - slowed to 80kph and feeling comfortable. Thanks for your hospitality Simon & Hillary. 👍

[JayBoRover]

Made it to Wudinna. The "Dinna" part seemed like an omen so we checked into a room and now waiting for our ordered "Dinna"😜
101 going fine on petrol. Tried a few times to play with the gas setting while mobile but it's no go. Must be at the carb end. Got the idle fine but under any load it's hopeless. Love driving this little beast! Having fun.
Realized my posts probably belong in a new thread so when I get home I'll paste everything over and then delete these to keep this thread tidy.
Cheers to all.

[Sitec]

Made it to Wudinna. The "Dinna" part seemed like an omen so we checked into a room and now waiting for our ordered "Dinna"😜
101 going fine on petrol. Tried a few times to play with the gas setting while mobile but it's no go. Must be at the carb end. Got the idle fine but under any load it's hopeless. Love driving this little beast! Having fun.
Realized my posts probably belong in a new thread so when I get home I'll paste everything over and then delete these to keep this thread tidy.
Cheers to all.

At least its all going well! We spent the rest of the day in winery's and disused railway stations!!! Gav will prob b able to chop and shift this all into a 'JayBoRovers 101' thread!! At least you'll have tried and tested the vehicle!!! I'll b knocking up one of those ladders for SWMBO b4 Wombat Camp!! :)

[Homestar]

At least its all going well! We spent the rest of the day in winery's and disused railway stations!!! Gav will prob b able to chop and shift this all into a 'JayBoRovers 101' thread!! At least you'll have tried and tested the vehicle!!! I'll b knocking up one of those ladders for SWMBO b4 Wombat Camp!! :)

Mick beat me to it.:D

Don't suppose you can knock up 2 of those ladders...?:D

[Sitec]

Mick beat me to it.:D

Don't suppose you can knock up 2 of those ladders...?:D

Recon so.. The ones I make will b slightly wider, and have a flat top to account for the tailgate.. JayBo's suits the rear door access. You're hitch bolted direct in the ctr of the rear x member as std.. Will match mine if it is. :)

[Homestar]

Recon so.. The ones I make will b slightly wider, and have a flat top to account for the tailgate.. JayBo's suits the rear door access. You're hitch bolted direct in the ctr of the rear x member as std.. Will match mine if it is. :)

Yep, it's standard. Let me know how much - happy to pay and make it worth your time.:). If you want to take this offline and PM me, it won't clog up Johns thread. If you have a sketch of what you plan, that would be cool.

[Brute]

All the best for the big drive John, look forward to having a good look at it.:)

[JayBoRover]

At Nullabor Roadhouse for a coffee stop. All going well. Just managed 340kms on LPG and still going! (I won't say "going strong" but still going). Heading on to Eucla now.

[The ho har's]

Please keep the reports... Us 101 owners like to keep in the loop:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[JayBoRover]

Made it through the border (can't believe they let us back in😃) and now in Eucla waiting for my dinner in the resteraunt. (We figured by skipping lunch we deserve a nice dinner!).
The border dude asked a bunch of food questions, asked about "what is this thing? Did the army use these?" and then noticed no rego plates. We told him it was on a Vic Roads permit so he noted the permit number down and then waved us on, wishing us a safe journey. No request for the WA Movement Permit I also have.
The 101 now seems relatively happy on gas but only after a sustained period of farting and missing. Sometimes it clears itself before you come to a stop and can accelerate back up to 80kph. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to switch back to petrol before we come to a stop. Happy we managed to run for just over 340 kms on LPG though.
Next update tomorrow - now eat then shower then sleep.

[Homestar]

You're making good time. You said when you were here the WA permit kicked in at 5pm today, you're almost running to the minute.:)

[101FC]

Must be good to be back in your home state and only the last 1500 to go! Vic Roads said the permit would get you all the way home but I never quite trust what they say! I would love to be able to give you some advice RE the LPG but I'm out of ideas! If I get a chance, I will ask the garage that tuned it all in last Monday to see of they have any Ideas.

Just a quick note RE Step ladders... The ladder that John got was my second attempt as it turns out to be critical that it can't slip left or right on the tow hook. If you want it to be as wide at the top at the bottom, then it needs to have supports resting on the cross member so that it can't twist when you are on the top couple of rungs. Anyway if you need more details then just shout!

James

[JayBoRover]

At Caiguna Roadhouse. Traveling well. Had to buy some more oil back a ways - guy at the roadhouse stands at the door rubbing his hands together as I approached and he says "How can I rob you today?" Lol. Then he DID! $55 for a 5lt pack of Castrol 20W50. Not so lol after all😃.
The 101 gets a few toots from the road trains as they rumble past. Having fun. Thanks James and Sophie for passing on your loved one to me! 😍

[JayBoRover]

Balladonia Roadhouse for another tank of LPG. All still going well - except maybe for the weather. Had one front over and now about to head into thunder and lightening.😳

[Sitec]

Balladonia Roadhouse for another tank of LPG. All still going well - except maybe for the weather. Had one front over and now about to head into thunder and lightening.😳

Within striking distance now!! Well done!! At least you are now in reach of friends back home!! :)

[JayBoRover]

Finally made it to Norseman after a real battle with the LPG. Unfortunately, we didn't fill the petrol as the two previous tanks of LPG had worked themselves out okay and the petrol price was OTT. Also unfortunately the distance to Norseman was greater than the range of petrol we had so we were relying on the gas and it ran like a bucket of poo! Now having dinner and will press on freshly filled with premium petrol!

[LandyAndy]

Great read John,I bet nobody could smack the grin off your dial.
Enjoy the final leg home.
How is your hearing coping???
ENJOY
Andrew

[Homestar]

I think John may need to learn sign language when he gets home until his hearing returns...:D

[JayBoRover]

Made it Southern Cross - 340 kms to go to my Bro's place. Having a Capaccino mingling with all the long haul truckers in the roadhouse. Adjusted the headlights in Norseman and opened up a new world ... a night world! Happy to push on for Perth.

[JayBoRover]

Made it home! About 20 minutes under 24 hours since leaving Eucla - it was a big day! My Bro took over at times to allow me to snooze. A meal stop and a coffee stop, a few leg stretch stops and a top up the engine oil stop - other than that the 101 was running the entire time! I'll file a full report later, with some photo's from along the way and some stat's like distance and fuel figures. Ciao for now.

[Sitec]

Awesome work, and well done!! An epic trip for sure!!!! :)

[101RRS]

Yes - great to see all went well.

Cheers

Garry

[Homestar]

You'll remember that trip for ever and look back on it fondly. I'm sure your feeling very familiar with it now - a bit of a difference from the first few KM you did on a narrow road, in the dark and wet just a few days ago.

Well done.:)

[JayBoRover]

You'll remember that trip for ever and look back on it fondly. I'm sure your feeling very familiar with it now - a bit of a difference from the first few KM you did on a narrow road, in the dark and wet just a few days ago.

Well done.:)
It's funny now to think back to that first drive. It was the first tentative steps of what will develop into a loyal and long standing relationship. Thanks again for your help in getting there and taking those first steps:TakeABow:. Setting the headlight aim made a HUGE difference that might have made things easier on that first drive.

I've already had the engine covers off and greased all the linkages that were dry and a bit sticky. Throttle and choke now work nice and smoothly and return to idle correctly:cool:. I had a play with the LPG setting today, now that I've fund the main gas flow adjustment, but firstly I couldn't get it to misbehave and then I couldn't get it to behave:confused:. I'll take it to an expert I think. I also greased the door latches and now the rear door closes nicely without having to really swing it.

Oh yeah, James (previous owner) if you're reading this ... thanks for the carton we found in the back:twobeers:. They're in the fridge in my shed where they will help me with any work I do on the 101:D.

My wife's reaction this morning surprised me. "You need to paint it ... a different colour ... candy apple red or maybe KTM orange":eek:. It's the first time she's ever made any comments about any of my Land Rovers that wasn't either total indifference or a complete put-down! There's hope!!!:bangin:

[Sitec]

"You need to paint it ... a different colour ... candy apple red or maybe KTM orange"

Ha.. White or Candy Apple Red are the two I've settled on.. Here's a pic of a 101 in orange to show the wife! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Candy Apple.
Mmmmmm.....
Nice.

[JayBoRover]

A few pictures of the trip across this massive and often pretty country.
Day one was a looong day due to JetStar cancelling our flight on Thursday night so Friday became a lot more difficult. Luckily Gav and Mick were able to go with the flow, change their plans to suit, and Plan B was put into action. This saw Gav, Mick, my Bro Rob and I all make a carpark rendezvous in the dark with James and his wife Sophie in a little hic town in country Victoria:p. Day 1 ended staying with Gav putting Rob and I up for the night. Thanks sooo much Gav:TakeABow:.

Day two saw me forget to switch my alarm on so we woke shortly before Gav was about to give us a prod and see if we really wanted to take the 101 back to Perth or squat at his place:D. So we headed off in convoy to meet Mick for breakfast a 1/2 hour up the road and gave my 101 the chance to meet a couple of others:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/296.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190006_zps03e0b8bd.jpg.html)

Mick's very nice 101:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/297.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190011_zpsffcf033c.jpg.html)

I know I'll be needing to fit some wheel arch flares to mine to pass the pits soon so stealing ideas:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1101.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190010_zps17deb707.jpg.html)

Apparently when my 101 was put on the boat in the UK it had the pick-axe head and the small shovel, but both were missing when it arrived in Australia:mad:. So I took some snaps for reference:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/298.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190009_zps7c919b04.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/299.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190008_zps4d107c3f.jpg.html)

Gav's 101 was towing a nice little military trailer. It doesn't have leap into the air on judder bars!:eek::
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/300.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190013_zpsb4c80947.jpg.html)

So we parted company there and Rob and I headed on for Simon's place in South Australia. We stopped somewhere for a bite of lunch and had the nicest burger and chips with gravy I've had for a long time.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/301.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190014_zpsbc76fa30.jpg.html)
The late start and then the breakfast and chinwag while oggling the collection of 101's saw us arrive at Simon's in the dark so we had a bite to eat, a coffee and hit the hay.

Day 2 instalment later.

[JayBoRover]

So a good nights sleep at Simon's saw a new day dawn. With daylight came the chance to have a look at Simon's awesome 101 and check a few things on my new toy. Simon offered to pump some grease into the joints to minimise the over-run rumble while I checked a front park lamp that wasn't working. The bulb was fine but I couldn't measure any volts so a job for another day.

Simon's and my 101:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/267.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7200015_zps0ccbd124.jpg.html)

This beast is going to be very visually loud with fresh paint one day!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/268.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7200016_zpsa4205263.jpg.html)

So many little touches to see. I suspect a full day would still reveal surprises and I didn't have the time for that:(. I look forward to catching up with it again one day with more time to have a good look.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/269.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7200018_zps67ca61a8.jpg.html)

So then we headed off to Clare to rescue an SOS call from a Defender in trouble. I briefly had Simon behind me and thought to take a snap before he rocketed past me up passing lanes on a hill - crazy fast!!!:eek: That things absolutely hauls ass with that big Cummins in it:cool:.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/270.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7200020_zps309d1496.jpg.html)

While Simon helped with the repair of the Defender, I played with the LPG system to try and getting some better running. After a cup coffee we all parted ways:(. It was hard to stop grinning for the entire drive from Melbourne to Perth! (You wouldn't expect a 101 with twin USB outlets in the dash for powering the phone and whatever else:cool:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/271.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7200022_zps650fa27a.jpg.html)

Day 3 tomorrow.

[JayBoRover]

So after leaving Clare and the rescued Landy (sounds the title of a childrens book:D) we headed West aiming for as far as we could get in the day. The original plan had been to get to Ceduna, but after the relaxed start to the day and with the Clare diversion the plan became "as far as we felt comfortable going". So not many photo's I'm afraid ... in fact there's precisely one:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/239.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1688_zpscae14e0b.jpg.html)

We were a bit amazed to find some of the best meals in the most unlikely places! So "Wudinna" seemed like an omen when we were hungry and it was getting on for dark and the "dinna" part suddenly seemed important:D. We (or "Wu" if you like) checked in to a room and returned to the restaurant. Very basic facilities but the food was great:cool:. I was too hungry to stop and take a photo of the main, but it tasted beautiful. The desert though was absolutely first class. So if you're ever passing through Wudinna (about half way between Port Augusta and Ceduna), do stop in and taste!

More shortly - just downloading a bunch of photo's.
Ciao

[JayBoRover]

From Wudinna we continued West, departing from the Motel at 7am for an early start for a change. I decided we should get some kilometres under the axles before a stop for breakfast, seeing as we fell short of the plan A target of Ceduna the day before by around 230km. So after around 1 1/2 hour we stopped at a Roadhouse in Wirulla to be greeted by this big fella:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/225.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7210023_zps5f4c788a.jpg.html)

Finally we had come across something older than the 101:D. A "Dinosaur Ant"!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/226.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7210024_zps596b7af0.jpg.html)

Another great breakfast. This place made everything really nice - the scrambled eggs were great, everything was hot, nice coffee, a big plate of toast with generous servings of everything and not all slimy and covered in grease. Another good spot to stop if you're passing this way.

We continued on our way, fed and happy, to Ceduna where we filled up with petrol. I thought it was a 95 litre fuel tank but I put 103.63 litres in:eek:! It had run out so I'd switched to LPG. (I'll do a separate post on the running costs once I've got everything nutted out).
After filling with fuel we headed for the wash place to get the Victoria mud off. The WA State border is manned and there is no way they would let the little beast in with half of Victoria's mud attached to the inner guards and chassis:p. So about $10 of gold coins and some effort from my Bro and things were as clean as reasonably practical.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/227.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7210025_zps8433613c.jpg.html)

From there the winding road ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/228.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1691_zpsa60e458b.jpg.html)

... became straight road ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/229.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1692_zps94057a49.jpg.html)

... and the range of view was limited only by the road climbing the dune undulations ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/230.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1693_zps2484fae3.jpg.html)

... and this second photo is the view from the top of the hill at the end of the previous photo:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/231.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1694_zpsf31ab4c4.jpg.html)

Long straight roads ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/232.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1698_zps6ebfd71a.jpg.html)

... for hours on end at 80kph. There were the odd moments of excitement, like the RFDS emergency landing strip on the highway:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/233.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1700_zps9c7e0933.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/234.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1701_zps118b3a4d.jpg.html)
(Believe me - there are no pedestrians out here!!!:D)

So a couple of kilometres of extra wide verge to the road, and no carcasses of 'roos or Wombats ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/235.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1702_zps92ef01e6.jpg.html)

... and you get to the other end of the airstrip:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/236.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1703_zps5b8a0c0f.jpg.html)

I had hoped to line up the camera mounted to the windscreen with the centreline but there was another roadtrain coming so I thought the better of it. (Although I suspect that the truckies almost expect cars to do stupid things like drive along the centreline there;))

We finally reached the Nullabor Roadhouse, where we refilled with LPG, having seemed to run out.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/237.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1696_zps310640fd.jpg.html)

Pressing on and my Bro hadn't previously stopped for a look at the Australian Bight lookouts so we stopped at one of them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/238.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7210027_zps70334602.jpg.html)

Met a few motorists that had passed us several times and had camped up in the rest area for the night. We continued on so the story of the tortoise and the hare proved correct. It was funny to recognise numerous cars and big rigs that passed us numerous times each day:D:cool:.

So the last few kilometres of South Australia were in the dark to the WA State border. No problems getting through there with the Vic Roads permit in lieu of registration/license plates s we made it to the motel in Eucla with an hour or so to spare before the restaurant was due to close.

NOTE: Although there is a 1 1/2 hour time difference between SA and WA, this only applies to flying between the two. On the road there is actually a "Central West" time zone that is 45 min's between the two! I've been caught by this before, so was aware, but I am amazed at how many people do not believe me when I relate my story of getting in to Ceduna many years ago at 10:15pm thinking it was 9:30pm and finding the Motel closed at 10pm!:eek:

I should manage the last instalments tomorrow.
Ciao for now.

[JayBoRover]

I'll finish the trip story a bit later but I've just been playing with the 101. I fixed the park lamp that wasn't working. Had to work out how to take apart the light fitting to get to the connections on the actual lamp unit. The workshop manual that came with the truck was really useful, with it's exploded diagram of the lamp unit:cool:.

Then I played with the winch, feeding out 60 metres of the cable! That is an impressive length! I loved the way the feed out would stop as soon as I released the tension on it. I also loved the fact I could ask SWMBO to give it some throttle to increase the feed out rate, until I worked out the first part of the choke travel is not choke but just increasing idle speed and a twist of the knob holds it in place:cool:. I'm loving this thing more every minute! So I cleaned the cable and wiped it off with WD40 and then reeled it all back on again. It wound both ways beautifully.

Then I went for a drive around my firebreak (5 acre block) to test the low range box and the diff lock. All worked superbly! Then I found a nice surprise. The rear vision side mirrors rotate back when confronted by a dense bush and fold themselves nicely into the side. When you're clear they simply "pop" back into the original alignment with a light touch. Brilliant for something from 1975 I thought.

Finally I checked out rolling up the canvas sides. I only got one up and then it started raining again:mad:. I was kinda thinking I was going to drive it around again with both sides rolled up to see how different it feels. Maybe I'll wait to summer:cool:.

Anyway, more later. (I think I've talked SWMBO into driving it later this arvo:angel:. I've never managed to get her near the S2a other than the test drive when I bought it).

[101FC]

Wow what an epic adventure! I'm glad you are still enjoying it :) The winch is an awesome piece of kit, the only thing to watch is the clutch, I have backed it off until it did not grip and re-tensioned so that it could pull the 101 up a moderate hill so hopefully playing it safe. The setting procedure is in the manual but I don't have a load cell :( Oh and sorry to disappoint but the wing mirror arms are brand new reproductions from of the 101 club. The originals used to let you know when you were doing over 65 Km/h by folding in on you :twisted:

[JayBoRover]

Another instalment of the 101 trip then.
As had become our pattern, we set off from Eucla at around 7am intending to put some miles under the diff's before breakfast. About 70 kms later we stopped for fuel at Mundrabilla Roadhouse to fill up the LPG tank. We decided it was enough miles to have earned a breakfast so we had another great breakfast, with especially nice sausage. The coffee was unfortunately not in the same league and at $4 you'd think the sachet would at least be nice:(. On the whole though, the rest of the breakfast compensated for the poor coffee:).
I just had to take a photo of the clocks showing the time zones here though - just to prove I wasn't making it up.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/183.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1704_zpsa4b09caf.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/184.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1705_zpsd2144233.jpg.html)
In case you can't read the little label under the clock at says "Central Western Time - Covers the area form Border Village to the East, through Eucla, Mundrabilla, Madura, Cocklebiddy & Caiguna to the West".

We headed off again, fat and happy and with the 101 now quenched and back running on LPG with no problems other than a lack of power. It was holding onto 80 kph without full throttle though and getting about 340 km out of each 97 lt fill-up, so no real complaints. It does miss and splutter for a few minutes when you first switch onto LPG, but seems to sort itself out now whereas before it just wouldn't clear.

I realised I had forgotten to check the engine oil that morning and knowing I had to put some in at Simons and again at Wudinna, I thought it prudent to stop at the next Roadhouse. This was Cocklebiddy and sure enough the oil was about 1/4 on the dip stick so using about 1/3 litre every 1,000 kms. The il I was carrying that James had left in there for me ran out so I headed in to the Roadhouse shop to see about getting another 5 litre pack. As I walked up towards the door, the dude in the shop came out to the door and rubs his hands together and says "How can I rob you today?":D I told him I needed some 20W50 oil and he grins broadly and points me to the drink fridges and assures me he'll have that somewhere in there. I notice they only stock 5 litre packs, so no options of cheaper quantities, as he says "that'll cost you a bomb ... a good 60 or 70 bucks!" As I open the fridge and remove a Castrol pack he rings it up and says "Oh look, it's only $55 - just saved you 10 or 15!":D I think he must be my wife's shopping adviser!:D

The roads were consistent ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/185.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1713_zpse9e6d8e5.jpg.html)

... but the sky was changing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/186.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1715_zpsd80058b3.jpg.html)

We got to the Balladonia Roadhouse and stopped for more LPG.
This is where we got up close and personal with one of the giant road trains that roll through here. Makes the big 101 incredibly small!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/187.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1719_zps0958ed04.jpg.html)

Just a little longer!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/188.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7220033_zps96c19c06.jpg.html)

But my bumper is higher!!!:cool:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/484.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7220034_zps5e572844.jpg.html)

So we headed on and switched back to LPG. It wouldn't clear and run properly though. I persevered thinking that the now constantly rolling up and down reasonable hills might be causing issues due to the full throttle required. I switched back to petrol a few times and back to gas but it wouldn't come right. Especially annoying was the fact that I hadn't put any petrol in at Mundrabilla because it was very expensive and I figured the LPG would get us to Norseman about 200 km away. There wasn't enough petrol left for that though. We stopped a few times and played with the LPG settings but couldn't make a difference. So I ran on LPG down the hills and switched to petrol for the uphills. Reminds my of the rollscanardly - rolls down the hills and can hardly make it up the next one:D.

The sky definitely changed and we drove through two quite solid downpours.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/189.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1716_zps8c2b4e2a.jpg.html)

My arm got slightly damp from a fine "mist" rain coming through the gap between the door top and the roof, but I stayed substantially drier than if I'd been in my S2a!

So we went from looking like being early to Norseman to being quite late. Lost maybe 2 hours in the 200 km section. We filled up at Norseman, had a good steak dinner and decided to push for home rather than stay in Norseman as per Plan A. I figured if we were to have any issues I'd rather have time to deal with it. If we had issues the next day we would be pushed for time. Both my Bro and I still felt good so we prepared to take kips and swap places every once in a while.

So we made it to Southern Cross for a coffee stop and more fuel and then on to my Bro's place just short of Perth around 5am. A quick chat and I headed on to home on my own, arriving at 6:08am. A long day but I felt okay - in fact I had got some good kips in the passenger seat and didn't even sleep that day. I relaxed a fair bit before getting out and exploring the 101 - the first real chance to have a look at what I'd bought:eek:.

So that was the trip across. I have all the fuel receipts here so I'll put together a post on the costs and distance tomorrow night.
Ciao

[spongie]

Incredible journey nothing like that here in the UK

[chazza]

... until I worked out the first part of the choke travel is not choke but just increasing idle speed and a twist of the knob holds it in place:cool:.

It is exactly the same operation on my Rover P6 V8 car :D

It is a very useful feature when you want to warm the engine quickly without going for a drive. From memory mine used to run at 1200rpm with no fuel enrichment,

Cheers Charlie

[101RRS]

It was holding onto 80 kph without full throttle though and getting about 340 km out of each 97 lt fill-up, so no real complaints.

You need to have a look at that fuel consumption as it seems awfully high even for a 101. Around town I get 270km for a fill of 75 litres and on the road as you were I get around 350km from the 75 litres depending on headwinds and speed but I tend to sit at the same speed as you did.

How old is your LPG system - mine is very old - about 24yo and does not have the pressure limiting valve that newer systems have. If I go past the first click on the LPG filler nozzle and put too much gas in the tank, I get the symptoms you describe and have to switch back and forth to petrol until the tank pressure reduces and then all is good.

Garry

[JayBoRover]

Hiya Garry. Yep, the LPG consumption is certainly not good, but it is running quite poorly:(. James (the previous owner) did suggest that he thought it might be running a bit rich on LPG but my Bro and I couldn't figure things out properly while we were running for home and it was waaay beyond just being a bit rich. It is also probably significant that heading West across the Nullabor is almost always a very strong headwind, and it was no different this time.

The LPG vapouriser is brand new (OMVL R90e), the 116 lt tank is about 3 years old and there's a Lambda control box thingy with a sensor in the header from one bank. The issue we had with the tank between Mundrabilla and Norseman ran like poo from full to about 1/3 tank, so I'm pretty sure pressure isn't the issue. I'm sure it will all get sorted once I get it licensed and can get it to a tuner that has the test gear and knowledge to do the job properly.

I was actually a bit suspect of the fuel cutoff solenoid. When it was playing up for the first few minutes only, I thought maybe the time elapsed allowed for some fuel to be freezing when the LPG hit it at the carbs. When the petrol finally ran out it would clear and the LPG would run fine. I thought maybe if the petrol solenoid was not always closing properly that maybe a little petrol was still coming into the mix beyond the initial period. But I also tried keeping my foot flat to boards when the petrol ran out on switch-over to make sure both carbs were completely empty before switching the LPG on but it didn't really make any difference.

I'm going to stop guessing it and leave it for a pro:angel:.

[JayBoRover]

So I have to fit some wheel arch flares to my 101 as the tyres stick out beyond the body by bout 40mm. I have 5 lengths of rubber about 5mm thick and 60mm wide, with each length long enough to do each wheel arch.

The question is how to mount it. The wheel arches have some panels that have folded flat edges, 10 to 20mm of flat edge, but others have the outer panel just end with no folded edge. I could easily enough rivet some aluminium angle to the panels with no edge and use 20mm aluminium flat bar to sandwich 20mm of the rubber between and then leave 40mm of the rubber overhanging the tyres. Anyone see any problems with that? How have others done it? (Mick Marsh? I noticed yours doesn't have any signs of rivets/screws/bolts on the outside of the body panels).

[101RRS]

Aussie 101s had thick rubber on the front wheel arches as standard and I have never had to play around with these so I am not sure how they are connected - will have a look tomorrow if needed. I will need to widen mine as they do not cover my muddies.

On the back I used 4" wide rubber from Clark Rubber - it is just pop rivetted to the inner guard with 1/2" wide aluminium strip to stop the rivet heads pulling through the rubber. Was pretty easy to do. Be aware that as the top side panels fold down flat against the body, with the rubber flares in place the panel cannot do this so pick rubber that is flexible enough to take the panel pushing against it and not deforming or cracking.

You will also need to move the mudflaps both front and rear out a bit to cover the wires.

Garry

[JayBoRover]

Thanks Garry,
I hadn't thought about the top side panels folding down over the flares:eek:. Hopefully the fairly thin rubber I have is flexible enough to simply collapse and then pop out again afterwards. It only needs to look good for the pit inspection;).

I'll have to have a look tomorrow at what you mean by rivetting the rubber to the inner guard at the rear. The body panel that creates the horizontal line of the wheel arch above the wheel has no folded edge to rivet to (same at the front) and I'm not sure what you mean by inner guard. But then the front wheel arch has the same issue so it would be interesting to see what you can find regards to how the front ones are fixed - especially if you need to have a look anyway to make yours wider.

I think Mick's 101 is an ADF one too so my hope that he might chime in to tell me how he fitted his is dwindling - it was probably already fitted when he got it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1101.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P7190010_zps17deb707.jpg.html)

Cheers
John B

[101 Ron]

So I have to fit some wheel arch flares to my 101 as the tyres stick out beyond the body by bout 40mm. I have 5 lengths of rubber about 5mm thick and 60mm wide, with each length long enough to do each wheel arch.

The question is how to mount it. The wheel arches have some panels that have folded flat edges, 10 to 20mm of flat edge, but others have the outer panel just end with no folded edge. I could easily enough rivet some aluminium angle to the panels with no edge and use 20mm aluminium flat bar to sandwich 20mm of the rubber between and then leave 40mm of the rubber overhanging the tyres. Anyone see any problems with that? How have others done it? (Mick Marsh? I noticed yours doesn't have any signs of rivets/screws/bolts on the outside of the body panels).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/50234-9-00-16-tyres-24.html

[Mick_Marsh]

John, I'll take a few pics Thursday and post them up.

[101RRS]

John - I have some pics for you. By inner guard I am talking about the lip around the wheel arch - you said you do not have this on yours but my 101 has the lip still there - maybe yours has been ground off at some stage.

My point about moving the mudflaps out.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100470_zps2dff6de9.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100470_zps2dff6de9.jpg.html)

The front of the front wheel arch - you can see the rubber screwed to the lip in all pics
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100471_zps70473e8b.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100471_zps70473e8b.jpg.html)

The back and top of the front wheel arch - note the lip goes all the way around
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100472_zps61705e07.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100472_zps61705e07.jpg.html)

The rear wheel arch - the lip goes all the way around the wheel arch on the inside.

The front of the rear wheel arch - note how the front tyre sticks out past the standard rubber flare - I will need to widen these flares.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100473_zps3990be05.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100473_zps3990be05.jpg.html)

The top of the rear wheel arch
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100474_zps3594b975.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100474_zps3594b975.jpg.html)

The rear of the rear wheel arch
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100475_zps8070a6d1.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P8100475_zps8070a6d1.jpg.html)

Garry

[JayBoRover]

Thanks for the photo's Garry.:cool:
For the rear wheels I think there are two possibilities:
1) My 101 is missing the folded back edge on the wheel arch top (horizontal) sections that allow you to rivet the rubber to, or;
2) Yours has an angle section rivetted to the U channel section in place of a folded back edge. If this was rivetted to the inside of the U channel you wouldn't see the rivet heads unless you put your head right inside the wheel arch and look up and out. This is the option for me if I don't want any rivet heads showing on the outer panel.

The front wheel arches themselves are fine, although the folded edge on the horizontal section is quite narrow (10mm?) and is angled about 120 degrees so the rubber will slope down.

The trouble areas are in front of the wheel arch to the front bumper and behind the wheel arch back to the mud flap bracket. These two sections each side do not have a folded back edge either and I cannot see a way to attach the rubber without first attaching an edge (90 degree angle) to the outer panel. No way to avoid rivet heads there, so I might as well take the easy approach at the rear and allow for rivet heads along the horizontal section above the wheel:wasntme:.

I've been a bit busy preparing my Dakar bike, so not much time to play with the 101 for a while. I did roll up the sides and take the dog for a drive along the firebreak this afternoon:cool:. I can't wait till I've got the time to get things sorted and get it registered.

[JayBoRover]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/50234-9-00-16-tyres-24.html
Hiya Ron,
Thanks heaps for the link. It took me a while to get to where I needed to be but your photo's and explanation were perfect and confirmed exactly what I was thinking. The line of pop rivets along the wheel arch and below the tool box don't look too bad. I think I will use a 20mm flat aluminium bar to screw through, like Garry's, as I'm not keen on allowing for the small "droops" between the screw points as yours show - although that might be better now with the mudguard washers you mentioned.

I hadn't thought of the mud getting out from above the 20mm angle section so I have cut them full length. Lucky I read your stuff before rivetting them on, so now I'll break them up into smaller sections and allow for some "drain spaces". Thanks heaps for that:cool:!

I'm thinking of running the rubber flares a bit further forward of the rear arches to about the fuel tank point. Same at the front where I'm thinking of running the rubber flares right up to the front bumper bar.
Cheers
John B

[JayBoRover]

It's been too long, so I sneakily took the 101 out for a drive around the neighbourhood. Great living in the country, although suburbia is getting waaay too close. I'm looking forward to getting stuck in to sorting out the wheel arch flares and rear seating maybe and getting it registered before summer comes along.

[Defender Mike]

Hi John,
I will have to pop out and have a look at your 101. I have been away in a Fiji for 6 months and have bought a yacht and sailed it back . It's currently on the Gold Coast and we are packing up here in Perth to go sailing for a couple of years. I'm selling the Defer and possibly the 109 all the Ktm stuff etc. :)
Mike

[JayBoRover]

Hi John,
I will have to pop out and have a look at your 101. I have been away in a Fiji for 6 months and have bought a yacht and sailed it back . It's currently on the Gold Coast and we are packing up here in Perth to go sailing for a couple of years. I'm selling the Defer and possibly the 109 all the Ktm stuff etc. :)
Mike
Long time no hear captain Mike:D. If I'd known you were in the market for a hole in the surface of the ocean to pour money into I could have done a very good deal for you. Father in Law had a stroke and had to sell his beloved yacht and it just sold the other week for very, very much less than it was worth.

It sounds like a fantastic plan of yours though! Feel free to dump anything Landrover-ish or KTM-ish here - no guarantees it'll be here when/if you get back though:D.

Drop around some time for a catch up. I'll be keen to find out what's going on with the whole sailing thing:cool:. You still got my number?
Ciao

[JayBoRover]

I spent a bit of time on the 101 today. Not too much because preparing my Dakar bike is still my priority for a while, but I couldn't help myself:angel:.

So this was my effort for this morning:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1041.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P9130004_zps00887286.jpg.html)

2mm aluminium in 20mm width gets either rivetted (or bolted in the case of the rear angled section of the wheel arch) through the 5 or 6 mm rubber to the body panel under-folds (or to a 20mm aluminium angle that's been rivetted to the body for the horizontal section at the top of the wheel arch).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1042.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P9130007_zps09b923ac.jpg.html)

I kept the flare to a minimum ...:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1043.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P9130005_zpsd12e1df6.jpg.html)

... and I hope the little bit of tyre that still sticks out is either acceptable or just a result of the truck being parked on a slope:eek:. I measured the tyre protrusion on the flat using a long straight edge held up against the outside of the tyre and measuring to the body from that. Now I'm scared to park it on the flat to check it in case I stuffed up somewhere:(.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1044.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P9130006_zps8d6a4eda.jpg.html)

One corner down, three to go!:cool:

[Brute]

Did the same to mine last weekend John, did the back first. 40 mm of flare is all that's needed, did 40mm at the front too and then realised the front track is about 1" wider than the rear. Hopefully it will be good enough for the pits.

[JayBoRover]

Did the same to mine last weekend John, did the back first. 40 mm of flare is all that's needed, did 40mm at the front too and then realised the front track is about 1" wider than the rear. Hopefully it will be good enough for the pits.
Mine is a 40mm flare too. I only measured the tyre protrusion at the back though because the front tyres weren't pointing straight ahead when I went out to do the measuring. I hadn't thought about the front track being different. I might have to check that one so thanks for the heads-up. I would have assumed the body would be panelled out to the same cover for the front regardless of the track, so would have thought the same 40mm extension should do it.

When are you going to be ready for the pits?

[Brute]

I,m pretty close John, just need to follow up on Stu's tip for the wipers, get theW4 challenge out of the way, and sort the engine so it runs better. I,m going to do the pits without a roof so hopefully that will be ok. What about you

[JayBoRover]

Mine is close as far as what it needs for me to be comfortable to take it to the pits but a while away in time. My priority is getting my Dakar bike complete, in the crate and on it's way to Buenos Aires in the next couple of weeks. The I can start playing with the 101. So I might be similar timing to yourself and Stuee.

[101RRS]

Mine is the same as yours and I am thinking of taking mine off and putting something wider on. Not sure of the laws but I think the entire tyre has to be covered not just the tread - if it is just the tread then that is great.

Irrespective of the - like mine, the pic of the rear shows that the tread is not covered by the mudflaps and rear bodywork. I will be using some rubber at the ends of the rear cross member to cover the tread at leas and moving the mudflaps across as well.

With mine - I get worried when I part it somewhere as you have found the vehicle attracts a lot of attention and sometimes the cops and while they are normally OK I am waiting for the defect notice on the mudflaps not covering the rear tread.

Garry

[JayBoRover]

Another weekend and another wheel arch flare done - drivers side rear this time. At this rate ... :D

[JayBoRover]

Some irony for the evening: The entry list for the 2015 Dakar Rally has been released and I'm number ... wait for it ... 101:cool:
I figure with me on my KTM #101 there'll be nothing we can't get around, through or over!
45 days to go!

Oh, and I fitted another wheel arch flare - this time the drivers side front, so only the passengers side front left to do. Pic's soon.

[Landy Smurf]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/266.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/33_zps3397e7c9.png.html)

[JayBoRover]

Got the last of the four wheel arch flares done, so I celebrated by putting the 101 to work for the day!
Out on the fire break on my block, it gets a bit "squeezy" in a few places so I've been doing a little bit of trimming:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/3.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1799_zps428a414e.jpg.html)

Okay, maybe you could call it a fair bit of trimming:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/4.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1802_zps7838083a.jpg.html)

Got 3 good loads out and the firey's should be able to get through without losing too many heads now. Of course the downside is that my "fire-pile" is a bit high:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/5.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1804_zpsfeec5e4f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/6.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1810_zps4cc9a3bf.jpg.html)

It was a great day to be out in the 101 though, even if only pottering around my 5 acres. Got to love that V8 exhaust note and sheer "grunt":burnrubber:!
I can't wait to get it licensed but that's going to wait until I get back from the Dakar now, so February sometime.

[JayBoRover]

Not really a 101 post but I got my wheels back from Stuee the other day so put the 101 to work again today. Well ... not really working, just carting the pruning saws and some water for me, but it's more fun than driving the tractor and makes a nice background for the piccies;). Got a fair few waves from people driving past too!

It was my birthday earlier in the week, and Western Power, the power supply company that operates the power lines between my boundaries and the roads, were very thoughtful and tied some nice pink ribbons on my boundary fence on my birthday - 8 of them! Unfortunately it means I have 8 trees that need to be trimmed to maintain the power line clearance areas. So I grabbed my pruning tools and the 101 and set out.

Now you see it ...:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/325.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1832_zps30e0c82e.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/326.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1831_zpse1c14618.jpg.html)

... now you don't:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/327.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1838_zpsf7b4e517.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/328.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1834_zps8188aabf.jpg.html)

Now I just have some "slicing and dicing" to do.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/329.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_1837_zpsb5be2409.jpg.html)

I suspect my idea of "trimming" might differ from Western Power - or at least from the local council. The tree stepped out as 16m - the tallest tree I've dropped so far! It couldn't have gone any better, falling exactly where I planned (as opposed to over the fence and through the power lines and onto the road:eek:!). I can't drop the next one with a pink ribbon against it the same way because of the Dampier to Bunbury Natural Gas Pipeline easement. Mightn't be too good to rupture that!

[gavinwibrow]

So does this mean plenty of firewood for next winter, and is the idea of a working bee to help fund Dakar still on? (I'm still getting through the last lot of wood)

[JayBoRover]

So does this mean plenty of firewood for next winter, and is the idea of a working bee to help fund Dakar still on? (I'm still getting through the last lot of wood)
Hiya Gavin. I wondered if you'd pop in here seeing a tree lying down:D. There certainly won't be a shortage of firewood next year! When i get back from the Dakar I'll sort out the working bee and get Andy's log splitter here. By then I'll have a few more trees lying down to attack. The KTM Rally Dept spares support bill arrives about 3 months after the Dakar, so I'll have a large bill coming to find money for and the fundraising will have to continue.
Cheers

[JayBoRover]

Landed back from the UAE on Sunday so today I started the 101 and nosed it up to the workshop so I could get at the heater hoses to replace them. (My last drive resulted in the discovery that I had a pinhole leak in one of the hoses). Before I left I had ordered a full set of hoses from Able Engineering in the UK and they arrived while I was away. I have also bought a full set of new SS hose clamps, as a couple of the existing ones are very ordinary.

I've removed the fan unit, heater core and all the hoses and the solid pipe section. The fan was seized but now rotates a small amount. I'll pull it apart and see what I find. I've bead blasted and paint primed the heater tap and bracket and the air intake grille of the fan unit.

Hopefully next weekend I'll get it all back together again. My aim is to be able to drive the 101 to the Gingin British car day on the 3rd Sunday in May. I'll simply fit a temporary heater bypass hose if it looks like it might hold up the licensing plan. A bit of work to do to get it over the pits and licensed though, but you've got to have a target.

[stuee]

I've removed the fan unit, heater core and all the hoses and the solid pipe section. The fan was seized but now rotates a small amount. I'll pull it apart and see what I find. I've bead blasted and paint primed the heater tap and bracket and the air intake grille of the fan unit.


Be careful if you pull the motor apart. I ruined the one of the self-aligning bearings when pulling the shaft and windings out as the bearing had rusted onto the shaft instead of staying in place. I had to get a mate to machine up a bushing and put a standard ball bearing back ($10 vs $60 for a self aligning bearing) in its place. I never took any pictures of the finished assembly it seems which I'm spewing about.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/177523-101fc-heater-fan.html

Let me know if you need a hand with anything.

[Brute]

I,m in sunny Yorkshire until the weekend John, but happy to give you a hand too when I get back. It will be quite a spectacle for Perth having a gaggle of onesies at Gingin:D

[Mick_Marsh]

It will be quite a spectacle for Perth having a gaggle of onesies at Gingin:D
Got to have photo's of that.

[DasLandRoverMan]

P38 heater fans have been successfully modified to fit a 101 in the past, apparently a decent upgrade.

[101 Ron]

P38 heater fans have been successfully modified to fit a 101 in the past, apparently a decent upgrade.
Thanks for that tip.
My 101 was 24 volt and has been converted to 12 volt by a previous owner..............I think I am running the 24 volt fan motor still as my fan is not brilliant.........P38 fan could fix my problem.
Ron.

[buffaroo]

Lifted off facebook P38 along side standard motor

[JayBoRover]

Lifted off facebook P38 along side standard motor
Gosh! The 101 one looks much nicer though doesn't it! Full of "character".:wasntme:

[JayBoRover]

Whoo Hoo ... my heater fan works:cool:
I pulled it all apart, bead blasted most of it, lightly sanded the armature and housing magnets to remove the rust, cleaned all the electrical connectors and then mocked it all back together finger-tight for testing. Put it back in place with just a couple of bolts, connected the wires and switched it on ... and it fired into life and blasted air into the cabin:cool:. I have noticed though that mine is missing the flap and control that should be part of the fan unit to block the air from getting to the heater box.

So now I removed it again, took it apart again and have sprayed a primer coat on the parts. Tomorrow I'll put a couple of finish coats of black on it and throw it back in the hole so I can refit the heater box with all the new hoses I got. Looking good for having it running again at least.

If I get all that done tomorrow I might have a quick look at the air compressor so I'll know whether or not to remount the air tank back in the nose tunnel behind the front bumper. There was something wrong about the installation but I suspect something simple like the regulator plumbed backwards or something. The compressor itself I'm not so sure. Maybe electrical issue or clutch issue (engine driven ex-ambulance system apparently with the compressor driven via belt from crankshaft pulley) but it doesn't seem to do anything when I pull the knob to engage it.

I just have to get a piece of rust cut out of the chassis rail and I'll be happy to take it to the pits for a license check and find out what else it needs. To me everything seems okay.

[Homestar]

I think mine works, but I've never used it. Even on a cold morning when I might need it I find having the windows open for a few minutes works fine.

[JayBoRover]

I think mine works, but I've never used it. Even on a cold morning when I might need it I find having the windows open for a few minutes works fine.
I know what you mean. After I've hauled myself into the drivers seat my very first action is to slide the window open. I pull the door closed using the sill. My S2a doesn't even have a heater, so having that in the 101 is high class for me:D. Now with a working fan too ... well, I don't need to buy a Range Rover do I!:wasntme:

[JayBoRover]

Heater fan is now repainted and refitted in the nose tunnel. I replaced three of the rivnuts that the fan unit mounts to so next time I shouldn't need to remove the heater box to be able to get the bolts undone by holding the rivnuts with vice-grips under the heater box.

I measured the resistor mounted to the fan unit and it was correct for the 12V system and I checked it's fed from the switch "low speed" contact. However, when switched to low speed the fan doesn't run. I measured the voltage at the motor and it's only getting about 4V. Switching to high speed the fan runs although only getting about 10.4V. I'll investigate further one day, but in the mean time I'm happy enough to move on knowing the fan works.

Even better is the fact that the heater hoses are now changed and no leaks!:cool: I refitted the air ducts in the cabin too. The windscreen demister flexi-tubes were not connected from the heater box but I found them in the box of spares I got with the 101. Be interesting to see how the whole system works now.

I crawled under the 101 with a hammer and screwdriver to investigate the rust in one spot of the chassis that had me concerned. A is normal with rust, it is much worse than appeared. I think the bottom plate of the chassis will require a decent size patch for the front passengers side rear spring hanger where the outrigger connects. I'll see if I can get someone to sort it out for me, as it's way beyond my capabilities. I'll try and get some photo's in daylight.

[Homestar]

Check the fan switch - mine does the same thing. It has some crud in it that stops it working on low. I have to wiggle it around to get it to work, but as mentioned, I don't use it, so have never bothered to fix it. Only getting 10.4 volts on hi might be the same thing.

[JayBoRover]

Check the fan switch - mine does the same thing. It has some crud in it that stops it working on low. I have to wiggle it around to get it to work, but as mentioned, I don't use it, so have never bothered to fix it. Only getting 10.4 volts on hi might be the same thing.
I'm way ahead of you. I completely stripped the switch, cleaned all the internal contacts, refitted one of the springs that had come adrift, evicted the spider:eek: and then reassembled and checked the contacts with my meter on the external spade connectors. All perfect.

[JayBoRover]

I couldn't wait for daylight, so here's a few photo's with flash. So here's the fan unit refitted into the nose tunnel with a rough spray finish and new coolant hoses:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/913.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P4120007_zps5regkqwx.jpg.html)

The resistor cleaned up okay and the resistance measured up at just under 2 Ohms. The manual says 1.8 Ohms for a 12VDC system, so close enough. I need to check the wiring resistance for the low speed to figure out what's happening. Anyway, a spray of matt black has the resistor looking good anyway:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/914.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P4120008_zpsrwf4ztco.jpg.html)

This is the only real rust in the chassis and will need to be taken care of before going over the pits for licensing:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/732.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P4120006_zpsye1a7lfo.jpg.html)

It actually looks like it might have been patched before but only by welding a patch over the rusted chassis section. I'll hope to get the section cut out and a new section of plate welded over it properly. That's what I imagine anyway - I'll have to talk with someone that knows what they're doing and make sure it gets done properly.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/733.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P4120004_zpsqlg1tt0v.jpg.html)

[DasLandRoverMan]

Chassis rot behind the front sprigs isn't an uncommon occurrence on vehicles that have lived in the UK. I've repaired a couple there.

I think the chassis is double skinned there, and the problem comes due to rust developing between the plates and causing it to swell up and come out the way you picture.

I usually saw out the rot from the bottom and weld in a fresh bit of 2.5mm steel.

[JayBoRover]

I got to spare an hour or so on the 101 this afternoon so grabbed the angle grinder and attacked! It has come up reasonably well so far. I brushed on some Kill Rust when I was finished just to hold it like this until I can get back to it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1345.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P5030007_zpswynwsl8z.jpg.html)

I think I'll need to remove the rear spring hanger to be able to get the front part of the plate off. It seems likely that'll have to happen to be able to weld a new 2.5mm plate on too, so I'll try and get that sorted.

Tomorrow I'll make a booking at the pits for an inspection, probably for early next week. That'll give me one more weekend (means maybe a couple of hours around everything else on my plate) to get things sorted out a little better.

[Brute]

If you jack it up by the chassis at the front the spring shackles should swing forward a little bit, might give you a bit more room.

[JayBoRover]

If you jack it up by the chassis at the front the spring shackles should swing forward a little bit, might give you a bit more room.


Good thinking Batman! I was wondering how I was going to manage for the welding too, if I have to take it somewhere to get it done. If jacking it works to swing it away a bit then it would make that much easier too.

[Brute]

Just a thought John, if you booked in at Welshpool pits in an afternoon you could swing past my workshop in the morning on the same permit and we can sort the welding out first.

[JayBoRover]

Just a thought John, if you booked in at Welshpool pits in an afternoon you could swing past my workshop in the morning on the same permit and we can sort the welding out first.
That's not a bad plan at all. Any day to particularly avoid for you?

[Brute]

Any day should be ok as long as you give us a couple of days notice

[Sitec]

Winning!! It'll b on the road in no time then!! :)

[JayBoRover]

I finally got a chance to make a booking for the licensing inspection at Welshpool! Next Tuesday could be a great day ... or a temporary setback day.

[Brute]

What time is your booking John? Do you still want to do the welding first

[JayBoRover]

What time is your booking John? Do you still want to do the welding first
My booking is for 2pm, so have to be there by 1:45. My permit starts at 8am so I figure I'll try and get a piece of 2.5mm plate cut to shape tomorrow and ready to go so I'll be all set for anytime in the morning or early afternoon that suits you. I have a bit more cleaning up to do to the existing plate and welds. If it's okay with you I'd love to call in and have you stitch the plate on if convenient.

I also have to play around with the headlight switch tomorrow as it's a little intermittent about its working. I have a LED fitted into the dash beside the headlight switch to tell you when the tail lights are on or not, as the headlights and dash will come on but not necessarily the tail lights. They work fine in the other positions where they're supposed to work and don't work in the positions they're not supposed to work, except for the main position where they're supposed to work with everything together. There you have to "jiggle" the switch several times to get it "just right".

I'll give you a ring to discuss.
Cheers

[Brute]

Any time Tuesday should be ok, just give yourself an hour or so. I have some 3mm that we can make a plate out which is what I rebuilt the series 1 chassis with, I'm sure no one would notice the extra 1/2 mm.

On a different note, had an interesting experience today when the 101 brakes failed. I was just pulling up outside a mates house to look at his perentie, when there was a loud bang and the 101 pedal went to the floor and I went sailing past his house. One of the steel brake pipes that link the top and bottom cylinder sheared at the fitting. Luckily he had some vice grips to clamp the hose and a bit of brake fluid. Not fun to drive with just one front brake though. And I never got to look at his perentie, hopefully it will be at Gingin too.

[JayBoRover]

Eeek!!:eek: That could have turned out very nasty in a different circumstance!

Okay, I'll leave the plate other than to make a template ready to cut your 3mm plate from. I'll concentrate on the light switch and removing all the oil (under a Land Rover?? No way?? :D) from under the engine, gearbox, transfer box and diffs and try to make it look like the brake wheel cylinders have never leaked in their lives. Shouldn't be hard??:D

[stuee]

I pulled my light switch apart as it was completely gone. The copper track had broken from arking with the high current. If yours is still working it may just need the tracks cleaned but I had to build up the tracks with solder. Now the biggest current going through the switch is from the tail lights and park lights so should last a while. Be careful pulling the switch apart as the spring in mine had rusted and broke when i removed it, my local hobby shop had some suitable replacements which I cut to size.

[JayBoRover]

Thanks to a couple of words of advice from Ian (Brute) and Stuart (Stuee) I made some good progress on the 101 today.

Ian's tip of jacking the 101 up from the chassis so the rear spring hanger of the front leaf pack swings forward worked a treat:cool:. Thanks for that one Ian:BigThumb:
I managed to clean up a lot more of the rusted plate but ran out of light to cut out a cardboard template of a replacement. I should get that done between now and mid Tuesday morning when I'll need it.

Stuu - I guess you mean these springs:D:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1025.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_2327_zps0nna37tr.jpg.html)

I had three good condition ones under one of the contact blocks and only one under the other contact block. The other two springs in the bad contact block were broken and many small pieces came out. I decided to put two good springs on the outside long edges of each contact block and cut down a biro pen spring to make up the inside corner of each block. (Not quite what the photo shows here but you can see the good original springs where I've lifted off the contact block).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1026.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_2326_zpsru77bkj7.jpg.html)

I cleaned all the contacts in the switch housing and noticed the long arcing contact was broken a few mm before the end. I don't think it really matters because that end is for the military running using the rear diff light and stuff. It doesn't affect the lighting requirements for normal road use anyway.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1027.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/IMG_2324_zpse3ratx5a.jpg.html)

So everything back together and all the lights work without having to jiggle the switch to make the tail lights come on:banana:. I checked all other lighting, including the reverse light, and all good. I then checked the wipers and washer squirter and all good. Then checked the horn, although it worked last weekend, and the blinking thing barely emitted a squeak!:(
I measured voltage and was only getting about 1.9VDC. I removed both horns and checked direct at the connectors and got a good 13.2VDC. So I cleaned up the earth point that was being used by the horns when mounted and put them back on and all good and working better than ever. I guess aluminium doesn't make for very good long term earth points Mr Land Rover!

I noticed one rubber boot on a ball joint on the track rod is a bit perished, but there's no movement from the joint. Hopefully they don't get fussy about the boot if the joint is still good. I also noticed a rubber boot around the winch mechanism that was perished and just floating on the actuator shaft. I don't think that should be cause for concern at the pits, although I'll sort out a replacement in time. It's just a dust boot, but that shaft is one of the several points to weep a little oil.

I sprayed truck wash all underneath and then pressure washed everything. Looks reasonable for a 40 year old beast. Here's hoping that Tuesday goes well. Gingin British Car Day, here I come??:burnrubber:

[101 Ron]

Ball joint boots can be purchased from Repco or similar very cheaply.
Post a PIC of the winch boot as I am at a loss about what you are referring too.

[JayBoRover]

Ball joint boots can be purchased from Repco or similar very cheaply.
Post a PIC of the winch boot as I am at a loss about what you are referring too.
It's a bit dark but should be able to take a photo of the winch boot tomorrow.

I found it in the parts catalogue - pages 33 32 and 33 33 for the "Capstan Winch - Drive Unit and Anchor Bracket". It's called "Grommet" with part number "591826". It sits over the "selector shaft" with the "operating lever" pinned to the end. The grommet is an elliptical shape to fit around the "sealing plate" with the shaft sliding through it's centre.

[101 Ron]

If you are talking about a boot over a shaft of somesort......I never have seen one,most likely because they fall off and disappear ?
I don't have a parts book........you have me thinking now.
I have my 101 out getting the canvass recut so I can't get under it to have a look.

[Brute]

Mine still has one on. I can't see the inspectors bothering about the pto linkage tho as long as the oil isn't flowing out too fast

[JayBoRover]

I think the inspectors would be able to pick on other things if they were getting really picky. I noticed one of my hub seals is weeping a bit vigorously. Hopefully the heat of running it for a bit will help, if at least not make it obvious by leaving a trickle down the tyre!

I forgot to ring you today Ian (actually been flat out again, right down to a teleconference from home tonight!:() which is a bugger because I was going to modify my permit to your work address as a stopover in both directions:angel:. As it is I can't remember where you are exactly. The permit starts at 8am so I'll try and ring before that to get an update from you.

[stuee]

I think the inspectors would be able to pick on other things if they were getting really picky. I noticed one of my hub seals is weeping a bit vigorously. Hopefully the heat of running it for a bit will help, if at least not make it obvious by leaving a trickle down the tyre!

I forgot to ring you today Ian (actually been flat out again, right down to a teleconference from home tonight!:() which is a bugger because I was going to modify my permit to your work address as a stopover in both directions:angel:. As it is I can't remember where you are exactly. The permit starts at 8am so I'll try and ring before that to get an update from you.

In case your up early I sent you a PM with his workshop address. I mentioned that my hub seals weaped in the PM but it was actually my swivel seals I had issues with. I have spare hub and swivel seals at home you can borrow if you need some quickly for a re-test. Let me know and I can throw them in my car and drop them off after or before work one day.

edit* also good thinking on the biro springs! Thats a great tip for anyone rebuilding the switch in the future.

[Sitec]

A pressure pack of Braklean and a few rags are your friends just before the pits!! :)

[Homestar]

The roadworthy inspector I have used for a while now has a good philosophy on oil leaks. From the time he drives it in to do the RW to the time he takes it out, it can't drop any oil in his workshop and it will pass almost regardless of what it looks like underneath, but a good clean just before the inspection is always best. :)

[stuee]

So how did it go?!

[JayBoRover]

FAIL! :(
I'll put some photos and a story together later.

In the meantime I have to thank Ian (Brute) for spending several hours with me to weld the plate on the chassis where I had ground off the old rusty one. Ian then noticed the steering dampener bushes were completely shot at both ends. I went up the road to REPCO and bought a pack of bushes for it. When I returned we removed the old dampener to find it actually performed no dampening duties at all. Ian had an old steering dampener from a classic Range Rover lying about, so we fitted that one with the new urethane bushes - perfect.

So despite the less than satisfactory end to the day, Ian's effort was much appreciated and at least the inspector didn't even mention the steering dampener or the chassis repair ... just everything else.

So it looks like DeeDee gets to go to the Gingin car show again. Becoming a regular:cool:.

[Homestar]

Did the new steering dampner make a difference? I've noticed my steering getting a bit twitchy recently and thinking that mine might be shot, not that I've checked it...

[JayBoRover]

Did the new steering dampner make a difference? I've noticed my steering getting a bit twitchy recently and thinking that mine might be shot, not that I've checked it...
I have to say I haven't noticed any difference but I haven't been off-road with it and I have my fat tyres (315/75x16) on. I never noticed any twitchiness before and the old dampener had absolutely no dampening qualities at all - dry as a bone. Funny thing though, the tester failed the 101 on the steering claiming "it wondered all over the road"! I blame the steering dampener - it drove fine before!:D On the way home I drove extended periods with no hands on the wheel in a straight line. Must have been localised, blustery, cross-winds where he drove!:wasntme: When I drove across from Melbourne I reckon I could have lined it up at one end of the Nullabor and taken my hands off till I got to the other end! I said to the guy "You better never drive my other Land Rover if you think this bad!":p

[Homestar]

So you can get a fail for that? Or did he pick the actual parts of the steering or suspension that are causing this claimed issue? In Vic, they must fail a component not just a general fail on the way it feels or the 'vibe of the thing'. That's not very scientific.

Do you have a list of items to repair before the next test?

[JayBoRover]

I have quite a list of points to be rectified. Many of them are ridiculous, as you'll see. I'll run through each with photo's to show what they're based on, but will do that in the weekend.
As far as the steering fail goes:
"STEERING - Rectify insufficient directional stability." My 101 is better than my 2012 D90 for directional stability!

[Sitec]

"STEERING - Rectify insufficient directional stability."

This clown has obviously only driven tight racked new cars... 101's are brilliant when being hurled into corners at insane speeds!!! I rate mine over the 130!! It just takes a it of getting used to.. The Cummins means mine has to corner well doesn't it Gav! :)

[Homestar]

This clown has obviously only driven tight racked new cars... 101's are brilliant when being hurled into corners at insane speeds!!! I rate mine over the 130!! It just takes a it of getting used to.. The Cummins means mine has to corner well doesn't it Gav! :)

That it does, but being a bad passenger meant there were a couple of brown trouser moments on that run... :D

My experience with 101's doesn't involve speeds or acceleration like that! :D

Oh what a feeling...

Oh, and yes, I throw mine around as well. I often leave drivers a bit perplexed when they try to overtake me going through a 2 lane roundabout thinking I will hold them up - and fail as I don't lift off the throttle like they do...

[JayBoRover]

I think it must have been a combination of:
1) his previous experience only being with new cars,
2) it being a breezy day and his travelling at low speed along a road lined with separated buildings with a cross wind and
3) maybe he found me on the system and discovered I had made a formal complaint a couple of years ago after being failed for a ridiculous thing with a motorcycle, the result of which they had to waive the re-test fee.

Wait till you hear and see some of the other stuff. How about this one:eek::
"Exterior General - All rubber sealing plugs in floor pan/spare wheel well/boot floor, etc to be fitted ALL TO BE SEALD." (There are some small holes in the tray area floor - like 6mm holes).
This in a tray with canvas roof and sides!!! I asked him if it would pass if I rolled the canvas sides up! He said exhaust fumes could come into the cabin area through the holes and I could find myself falling asleep and never waking up. What a laugh! Except it's not at all funny and has cost me an inspection fee and a day off work!:censored:

[Mick_Marsh]

He said exhaust fumes could come into the cabin area through the holes and I could find myself falling asleep and never waking up.
I reckon he's been inhaling too many fumes. Good job he didn't look too closely at the engine cover.

[Homestar]

Install the 'fume curtain' and tell him it's all sorted...:D

Sound like a knob. I would report him again for obstruction....

[gavinwibrow]

John, I think you should try the guy I first recommended in Spearwood - he is a realist (and a proper mechanic)!

[JayBoRover]

Because it hasn't been licensed in Australia before (I think they don't count the Vic Roads Club License as being licensed in Australia???) it needs to go through a "DVS Vehicle Examination Centre", not an Authorised Inspection Station". I'm guessing your mate is an AIS. I'll check though. Be good to find a way around this issue.

I don't mind doing a couple of the things they pointed out but if I have to split the motor and gearbox and the gearbox and handbrake drum and remove the overdrive to fix the oil weeps, then I might just send the thing to NZ in a container and sort it out there. Australia loses a 101!!!:wasntme:

[gavinwibrow]

Sorry John, didn't realise it was a first OZ rego, so no, he cant help.

[Homestar]

C'mon John, gearbox out in one of these can happen before morning tea... :D

If they are concerned about the OD leaking oil, I can lend you the back plate and gear to put it back to standard for the test. I carry these parts in my spares kit in case the Od ****s itself while on a trip. Probably about an hours work to take it back to standard. :)

[101 Ron]

The overdrive does not have to come out to fix the oil leaks.
Selector shaft O rings can be replaced in situ.
Leaks around the gear shaft and the housing is a bit harder, but I managed to stop that too and now have leak free over drive.

[101 Ron]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/84095-progress-report-8.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/84095-progress-report.html

[Brute]

When I got the rangy Ute registered years ago, they said the steering was too light and vague. I let the tyres down to 18 psi when I took it back and they passed it.
Maybe try increasing the pressure in the 101 tyres might stop it following the contours in our fine WA roads as much.

[The ho har's]

This clown has obviously only driven tight racked new cars... 101's are brilliant when being hurled into corners at insane speeds!!! I rate mine over the 130!! It just takes a it of getting used to.. The Cummins means mine has to corner well doesn't it Gav! :)

We can justify to that. we were doing 110KM/h in the 130 and crazy sitec passed like we were standing still :o :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[The ho har's]

John, sorry to hear the bad news. I hope things work out soon, and you can be running around with your 101.

Mrs hh:angel:

[JayBoRover]

When I got the rangy Ute registered years ago, they said the steering was too light and vague. I let the tyres down to 18 psi when I took it back and they passed it.
Maybe try increasing the pressure in the 101 tyres might stop it following the contours in our fine WA roads as much.
I think next time I'll have the canvas sides rolled up so they don't act like a sail to catch gusts between the buildings. There is just no way that my 101 is anything but rock steady in the steering. Having the canvas sides rolled up will also make a complete mockery of the requirement to fill the floor holes.:p I have thought maybe to take the roof right off and remove the door tops and go back on a heavy rain day!:twisted: I'd hate to do that and not get the same guy though:angel:.

[JayBoRover]

Okay, so here's a question for the troops. It seems WA inspectors don't trust Vic weigh-bridges and I have to take the 101 over a WA weigh-bridge for an updated TARE weight. Now the 101 Users Manual lists the original TARE weight (actually tabled as "Total Unladen weight) as 1924kg. That's with coolant, oil and 24 gallons of fuel. It also lists a "stripped" unladen weight, without spare wheel and only 5 1/2 gallons of fuel, of 1580kg. Maximum approved gross laden weight is 3143kg.

My 101 was weighed in Victoria, with the wider wheels and 315/75x16 tyres (including the spare), LPG system with 85 litre tank, steel framed rear door, Nokken winch with its 70m of cable, Defender seats and a full length roof rack with a 85W solar panel mounted on it. The weigh certificate shows it as 2560kg TARE. Now that makes my "101 1Tonne" a "101 1/2Tonne" (almost).

To the question then: Are there any pro's/con's to removing as much of the stuff as I can to reduce the TARE weight before getting it weighed again? I can't think of anything either way because I'd be putting anything I took off back on again. I guess I don't really care if I can only carry 580kg because I didn't buy it to cart loads in, although I'd be happier with a bit more but don't think it'd be worth removing anything to gain load capacity.

What's the collective's thoughts?

[101 Ron]

My 101 is about 2500kg unladen in running condition with my tools, winch.bull bar and LPG ect.
Luckily Aussie 101s are gross at 3500Kg. (Ex Aussie army ones)
Overseas 101s need engineering to exceed the 3100kg.
The only pro for dropping tare weight is a reduction of annual rego via road tax.
If you want to do this the 101 is the vehicle........take it over the scales stripped in air transport mode.
Your gross weight stamped on the plate on the fan tunnel will not change regardless of the weight it goes over scales at.

[Rok_Dr]

I'd definitely remove as much weight as possible, if only to reduce your ongoing rego fee, as its weight based here.

Interestingly when I got Lady Penelope inspected here last year, they accepted the weight stated on an old Vic rego certificate that came with the car, so go figure... Worked in my favour though :)

Now where is that six pack of sacrificial virgins to appease the sun god for tommorrow :cool:

Cheers

Steve

Ps rego is $19.48/100kg. Transport web site has a calculator you can use.

[DODGE]

Gday John


Sounds like you got a real muppet of an inspector. when I took mine over the weigh bridge at rous head I got a tare of 1820.the ticket from them only has the make of the car on it. so if you don't want to strip yours down I could just take mine back over and give you the ticket. lol

[JayBoRover]

I spent most of the day playing with the wiring of my S2a but did manage a bit of time on the 101 too. I pulled the drivers side rear wheel off to check things out and make sure it was the oil seal and not the brake cylinder that was leaking. Found the brake shoes with plenty of meat on them but also plenty of oil. The drum looked good (once I wiped some of the oil away), so I think a new seal and a set of new brake shoes and that will be good for re-inspection one day. No photo's as I was doing bursts between heavy rain squalls!

I found a spare rear drum oil seal in the parts that came with the 101, so hopefully it is good to do the job. It looks new but wasn't in a packet. It certainly doesn't look like any seal I've ever removed after removal, so I'm guessing the PO intended to change it but didn't get around to it.

I searched through all the spares that came with the 101 and found a couple of gasket sets, including rocker covers, valley inlet manifold and engine sump gaskets. They'll take care of most of the engine oil leaks that the inspector could be worried about. The only thing I haven't really looked at is oil leak between engine and gearbox, so that'll be my job next weekend.

Another of the stupid things the inspector picked up was: "Speedometer - RECTIFY excessive needle movement/fluctuation/erratic reading". Below about 30kph the needle bounces around quite a bit. I thought maybe the speedo cable is frayed within the sheath and at low revs the cable frays catch and cause the fluctuation??:confused: I found a spare speedo cable in the bunch of spares that came with the 101 so once again I wonder if the PO thought the same and bought the cable but didn't get around to fitting it. It looks new and is tied up exactly like the one pictured in "Able Engineering's 101 Parts" on-line listing, so I'll check it out and see if it sorts the issue. Otherwise I'll be looking into the cable clamping at the drive end. After that it'll be getting more serious, so here's hoping.:angel:

The other item I have looked into is the front brake hose that has nicks in the outer sheath. It's called the "Front Brake Jump Hose" that connects the pipe on the axle housing with the pipe coming from the shuttle valve. I looked to order some stuff from Able Engineering but the freight is a killer. (I put three items in my shopping cart (the hub oil seal, the brake jump hose and a set of rear brake shoes and the freight was 65 pounds:eek:). Does anyone in WA know if the fittings on the jump hose are standard items that I could go to a local brake place and get a new hose made up?

Another of the silly items the inspector has noted is that I have to submit a vehicle modification application to the Vehicle Safety and Standards Section because "ENGINE MODS TO HAVE VSS APPROVAL".
Me: "What engine mod's?".
Inspector: "It's got a 3.5lt V8 in it".
Me: "That's the standard engine".
Dip****: "I have no way of knowing that and the engine number doesn't match the one on the Victorian permit".
Me: "Arrrggghhhh!" (To myself:D).

That's it for now. Sorry for the no photo's - hoping the weather won't be complete ****e next weekend:cool:. I have one month from last Tuesday for re-inspection at the slightly reduced fee, otherwise full inspection fee applies ... and I'll go somewhere else!:wasntme:

[Shortie]

John, why didn't you take it to the Kelmscott pits? I've always got my vehicles though first go up there. Welshpool makes most vehicles fail the first time for some reason. Ellen

[Brute]

John I think that front brake hose is the same as an early Rangy classic rear one, think I still have my old one kicking around will see if I can find it

[roobar_and_custard]

WA have signed up to approving modifications under VSB14 - per below.

In order to avoid inconvenience and unnecessary paperwork, applicants wishing to modify a vehicle are advised to refer to the national Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Modifications? (VSB14) before completing this application. This code was developed to assist owners to perform safe and legal modifications.

VSB14 states:-


SECTION LA - ENGINE
VERSION 2.0 JANUARY 2011

1 SCOPE

Section LA outlines the minimum design, installation and fabrication requirements for the following
light vehicle modifications involving engine substitutions and modifications.

1.1 BASIC MODIFICATIONS NOT REQUIRING CERTIFICATION

The following are

Basic Modifications that may be performed without certification providing the
modifications are carried out in compliance with the requirements detailed in Clause 2 General
Requirements:

Fitting a replacement new, used or reconditioned engine;

Fitting a manufacturer's optional engine together with any associated components as
supplied by the manufacturer for that same model vehicle;

Fitting replacement original equipment engine and exhaust components;

Fitting replacement original equipment, equivalent or better, components that have no
influence on engine performance or emissions (e.g. higher volume oil pump than original);
and
Fitting equivalent engines with an increase of up to 20% of original power.


I suggest you fix what you can and then go somewhere else as the WA DOT Employee you saw is clearly not of sufficent competence to interpret the rules correctly - FACT!
and go somewhere else as they hate to be told that... :mad:

Did you get a copy of the 101 book? Should be sufficient evidence to show compliance to the above.

Good Luck.

[JayBoRover]

John I think that front brake hose is the same as an early Rangy classic rear one, think I still have my old one kicking around will see if I can find it
You've been extremely generous already Ian, and greatly appreciated. I decided there would be little cause for argument if I replace all the brake hoses with new ones, and I kind of need to replace the oil soaked shoes too, so I ordered a bunch of stuff from Able Engineering. I got a nice email from Martin at Able Engineering:
QUOTE
"Hi John
I managed to get you a better deal on the shipping so have refunded some of the shipping cost back to your PayPal account.

Regards
Martin Howdle

Able Engineering Ltd
01509 507602"
UNQUOTE

The inspector's note in the defect list regarding the brakes was actually worded so that I'm nervous about the other lines:
"Brake Lines / Hoses - RECTIFY perished/cracked or bulging INCLUDING FRONT MIDDLE FLEXI PIPE."

The honourable inspector (I got asterisked out when I called him by his proper name in an earlier post:nazilock: - started with "dip" followed by the contents of a stool after a bowel movement:D) mentioned seeing a bulge in a line and I wiped at it to remove it pointing out it was just a bit of dirt. The fact he's later put it on the form makes me think it might give him another option for another fail. It can't hurt to have the old ones as spares and I'm not selling the 101 any time soon.:)


John, why didn't you take it to the Kelmscott pits? I've always got my vehicles though first go up there. Welshpool makes most vehicles fail the first time for some reason. Ellen
A couple of reasons:
1) Ian's workshop is just around the corner from the Welshpool pits and we needed to do a few things to the 101 before going over the pits
2) Ian, and also maybe Stu, had got their 101's through the Welshpool pits, albeit after a retest for Stu.
3) I made a complaint against the Kelmscott pits after they failed me when getting my Dakar bike licensed. The complaint was cleared up and they had to waive the re-inspection fee when I returned. I thought they might remember me.

If I don't make the re-inspection within the time limit at Welshpool, I'll go to the Kelmscott pits next time.

[JayBoRover]

I got a nice package of 101 bits dropped off at the door by TNT couriers today. They tried to drop it off yesterday, but no-one was home so I got them to try again today while my wife was home. Now, I ordered this stuff on Monday morning!!! From Able Engineering in the UK!!! And they sorted out a reduced freight cost for me!!! Then it got here, door to door, in 4 days!!! Does Able Engineering operate out of a hanger at the airport???

EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE!:cool:

[350RRC]

......................

Another of the stupid things the inspector picked up was: "Speedometer - RECTIFY excessive needle movement/fluctuation/erratic reading". Below about 30kph the needle bounces around quite a bit. I thought maybe the speedo cable is frayed within the sheath and at low revs the cable frays catch and cause the fluctuation??:confused: I found a spare speedo cable in the bunch of spares that came with the 101 so once again I wonder if the PO thought the same and bought the cable but didn't get around to fitting it. It looks new and is tied up exactly like the one pictured in "Able Engineering's 101 Parts" on-line listing, so I'll check it out and see if it sorts the issue. Otherwise I'll be looking into the cable clamping at the drive end. After that it'll be getting more serious, so here's hoping.:angel:.................



I used to think the cable caused this ^^^^ in a RRC until I read Philip A's brilliant diagnosis and cure:

'I had a problem with an 81 in Saudi that may be the same.
If you pull the back off the speedo if it has the old type cluster, you will see a small white cross shaft that is driven by a gear under the input shaft.

This drives the odometer and has a gear on one end and a lever on the other that pushes the ODO one 0.1Km at a time.

This cross shaft can run dry and seize, and maybe lose a gear tooth if left too long. The increased load as it pushes the lever causes the speedo to jump or more correctly slow down.
Regards Philip A'

Might work for you.

cheers, DL

[JayBoRover]

Did some work on the 101 today:angel:. Changed the drivers side rear hub oil seal and cleaned the drum and backing plate. Replaced the brake shoes on both rear drums - a shame really because both sets looked almost new except for the oil all over the drivers side ones. Made sense to change both sides together though and keep the left hand side set as a spare.

I got caught up chasing a power steering leak on my wife's Audi so didn't have enough time to change the brake hoses, so that's a job for next weekend. It's a long weekend for WA next weekend so should get those done and a few other jobs:angel:.

[JayBoRover]

Another weekend, another job or two or three on the 101 completed:cool:.

I started with replacing the left front hub oil seal. It hadn't been picked up on the pit inspection but I was suspicious enough to buy a second hub oil seal when I ordered my bunch of bits from Abel Engineering. Sure enough, when I removed the brake drum there was sign of oil getting into the drum - luckily not yet onto the brake shoes:). I want to also change the swivel hub wiper seal but chickened out. It does weep a little, but the pit inspector hadn't picked it up, so a wipe before I drive in for re-inspection should do. I have the swivel hub seal so can change it once it's licensed.

Second job was to replace the front brake jump hose between the chassis fixed point and the axle housing. This was a bit of a hassle and I ended up dropping the ice-cream container I was collecting the brake fluid in and got fluid all over the place:mad:. I managed the job though. Bleeding the brakes was a PITA and they're still not good - requiring a pump to the floor before a second go to actually get braking happening. I did get clean fluid coming through with no bubbles for ages though. So I clamped the front hoses and went to the back wheels and bled those through for a while. Got a bit of air out and then no more. Still no difference to the braking though. I'll have to try something else next weekend.

Next job was to remove and dismantle the speedo looking for any problems that might make it jump around below 40kph. Got it out and pulled apart easily enough. Couldn't find anything amiss (first time in quite a few years that my trade as an Instrument Technician has been useful:D) so I'll hook up the spare cable to the innards and see what that exposes. In the mean-time I've bead blasted, sanded, primed and painted the shell and dial rings and also cleaned the glass lens. I've just got to put a coat on the inside of the unit to really top it off. Looks great:cool:. Will look stupid in the dash with everything else looking "well used":wasntme:.

So I have one weekend left before the re-inspection if I'm going to go for it. The big ticket items left to do are:
- the LPG certification (I'm assuming it was installed in the UK and not been tested here - need to book it in somewhere but hard to juggle around a very busy time at work)
- sorting out all the oil leaks (have some gaskets but some of the leaks are not "friendly" to fix. I wonder how well silicon would hold it at bay for a short while?)

The easier to manage items to do are:
- extending the rear mud flaps to the extent of the tyre width (I have the rubber here so just need some time next weekend)
- getting an updated weighbridge docket (can be done on the way to the re-inspection easily enough)
- sealing the floor holes (easy peasy with a tube of silicon or armed with some rivets - next weekend)
- sort out the jumpy speedo

Going to be touch and go for getting it al done, but I'll try!

[JayBoRover]

Got the speedo back together and it looks mint:). Got it fitted back into the dash panel. I removed the entire speedo cable, cleaned it, flushing it through with copious WD40. I removed the inner cable and cleaned that with an oily rag. I found the drive end was quite "flattened" (normally is "squared") so I re-squared it in the vice. I thought that might be the reason for the "jumpy" reading below 40kph so got all excited. Blew out the outer sheath with compressed air and refitted the inner cable and then reinstalled the whole thing back in the 101. All good so far. Connected my battery drill to the gearbox end of the cable and pulled the trigger ... nothing:(. Checked the connection at the speedo and wiggled the drill end a bit and pulled the trigger again and ... nothing. Hmmm. Tried the drill in the other direction and ... voila ... success:). At low speed the speedo is nice and stable at any point to the maximum speed the drill would indicate, which was about 40kph. So put the cable back into the speedo drive unit on the back of the gearbox and go for a test drive and ... nothing. Speedo now not working at all. Tried several times with refitting the cable and nothing:(. Very disappointed ... and very annoyed at the pit inspector for fussing over such a trivial thing as now I've taken a step backwards and can't hope to get over the pit for re-inspection by Friday:mad:.

I did get the mudflaps extended on both sides at the rear, so the mudflaps now have the same reach as the wheel arch flares. One win anyway.

I did a lot more water blasting around the engine and drivetrain to remove grease and oil. The worst oil leak seems to be from the overdrive cover at the back of the gearbox. It seems oil-tight at the top and leaks at the bottom. (Yes, I realise the oil will be at the bottom and not in the top:D). The top bolts were tight but the bottom two I easily got a 1/16 more turn, so I'll see if that makes a difference. Otherwise it's not a big job to remove the overdrive and put some gasket sealer under that cover.

There also seems to be some oil coming from around the oil pump, maybe from the oil lines. Interestingly there are two spare oil lines in the bunch of spares so I wonder if these have been a problem before. I've cleaned all around them and hopefully will see where the oil comes from.

The engine driven (ex 101 ambulance) air compressor suddenly decided it will work again today:). Almost gave me a fright when it burbled into life with a knocking chuff-chuff when I was playing with the switch:o. With a few revs on the engine it chuff's along merrily. No action from the pressure gauge on the air tank, but I'll get to that in time.

I also replaced the rope for one side of the canvas and have enough rope to redo the other side and the back one day.

So my list for the licensing inspection is now down to getting the speedo drive working, the LPG installation certified, an updated weighbridge docket and maybe some more oil leak investigation - now that I have the time because I won't make the retest deadline. I might still try and get the LPG certification done this week, and then may as well get the weighbridge test too.

Anyone have any experience with the speedo drive assembly? It was working before I pulled the cable out but isn't working now. All I've effectively done to it is reshape the end of the cable back to the original square shape. Any hints appreciated (if you've read this far - I must get some photo's sorted for my posts!:wasntme:)

[Mick_Marsh]

Re: Speedo issue
I had a speedo just as you described on my stage 1.
I know I replaced my cable. I seem to remember replacing the drive output shaft/gear around the same time.
Try a new cable first.

[Homestar]

Had the same thing happen to mine John. The outer sheath stretches over time and the inner ends up not quite engaging at the speedo end. Easy fix - remove the cable from the speedo, pull the inner out, remove the ferrule that attaches the outer to the speedo - I think it unscrews, but can't quite remember - it wasn't too difficult, then cut 1/4" off the outer sheath with an angle grinder. Reassemble and test. Worked for me.

You should be able to see about 1/2" if the inner poking out of the sheath - if you check this at the moment my guess is that there isn't much poking out and it's not quite engaging in the back of the speedo.

[JayBoRover]

Had the same thing happen to mine John. The outer sheath stretches over time and the inner ends up not quite engaging at the speedo end. Easy fix - remove the cable from the speedo, pull the inner out, remove the ferrule that attaches the outer to the speedo - I think it unscrews, but can't quite remember - it wasn't too difficult, then cut 1/4" off the outer sheath with an angle grinder. Reassemble and test. Worked for me.

You should be able to see about 1/2" if the inner poking out of the sheath - if you check this at the moment my guess is that there isn't much poking out and it's not quite engaging in the back of the speedo.
At the speedo end, the inner cable has a ferrule crimped to the cable that sets the length of the inner cable that extends into the speedo. Adjusting the length of the sheath wouldn't change that length of protrusion into the speedo. The speedo does work with a drill turning the cable inner down at the drive end, even if I pull the inner back as far as it will go (ie pulling the inner cable ferrule against the sheath ferrule by pulling the drill back while it's turning). So, if you're right and the outer sheath has stretched and my disconnecting it and reconnecting it has done something, then it must be not engaging at the drive end?? I guess I could confirm that by pulling the speedo end out and making it visible while I drive to see the inner turning. Unfortunately it's dark when I leave for work and dark when I get home, so it'll have to wait for the weekend.

[Brute]

I seem to recall my new cable being flat on the end and not square like the usual ones, maybe by squaring it, it is slipping in the gearbox drive

[Homestar]

At the speedo end, the inner cable has a ferrule crimped to the cable that sets the length of the inner cable that extends into the speedo. Adjusting the length of the sheath wouldn't change that length of protrusion into the speedo. The speedo does work with a drill turning the cable inner down at the drive end, even if I pull the inner back as far as it will go (ie pulling the inner cable ferrule against the sheath ferrule by pulling the drill back while it's turning). So, if you're right and the outer sheath has stretched and my disconnecting it and reconnecting it has done something, then it must be not engaging at the drive end?? I guess I could confirm that by pulling the speedo end out and making it visible while I drive to see the inner turning. Unfortunately it's dark when I leave for work and dark when I get home, so it'll have to wait for the weekend.

Ok, looks like a different cable to mine then. Mine slid back down the sheath and shortening it did the trick. Yeah, take it for a drive with the speedo end disconnected and in view. That will soon tell you where the problem is.

[JayBoRover]

I seem to recall my new cable being flat on the end and not square like the usual ones, maybe by squaring it, it is slipping in the gearbox drive
That is certainly a plausible explanation for what's happening!:arms: If that's the case, the maybe it was jumpy at low speed because it was "missing" the odd turn because it was becoming too square. I'll try disconnecting it at the speedo and driving down the driveway to see if the inner cable is turning. If it's not turning then I'll remove the inner from the speedo end and try flattening it in the vice and try again.
Here's hoping!:unsure:

[Mick_Marsh]

Don't flatten it in the vice just yet. They are supposed to be square. Over tine, they tend to flatten. Why? I have no idea.

[LandyAndy]

John.
Back in my series days whenever I was bleeding brakes I would wind the brake adjusters so the wheels would lock solid.Always made the job easier.;););););););)
Andrew

[JayBoRover]

John.
Back in my series days whenever I was bleeding brakes I would wind the brake adjusters so the wheels would lock solid.Always made the job easier.;););););););)
Andrew
I thought about doing that but the service manual states:
"9. Slacken off the brake shoe adjusters on each wheel to minimise wheel cylinder volume".

Makes sense to me in that this would allow the springs to pull the shoes right back so the cylinders are fully retracted and therefore have minimum fluid in them. Several people have told me to do this to minimise the volume of fluid so the air has maximum chance of purging out - even to the extent of removing the wheels and drums and wrapping a ratchet strap around the shoes to hold them in. I'm not confused at all:confused::D.

I need to find something else to do because so far I've only broken the working speedo and the working brakes. Time to find something else to break!:bat::oops2:

[stuee]

My brand new cable which I got from AJ had a flat oval shape on the drive end, close to being flat, but definitely not square. An issue I had was similar to Gav's in that it was popping out of the speedo end after I was fidgeting around the back of the gauges fixing cable ties up. I simply jammed the cable back in and it came good.

I think Johns onto it but I've attached a highly technical drawing (highly technical because I had to use Word and Paint to make the thing) which shows why the flattened oval shape might work and the square shape might not engage. I remember thinking my cable was naffed when I got it as I was expecting a square drive bit but as I had loads of other jobs to sort out it went in and worked.

edit* I suspect a squished flat end is cheaper to manufacture than a precision square drive which would likely need to be cut to shape and attached vs my cable which looked like the metal stands soldered and squashed.

[LandyAndy]

My method was to wind them all locked hard.Bleed from the furthest to master cylinder to closest in that order.Repeat.Now adjust snail cams and repeat bleeding sequence twice.
That was normally enough,on a complete shoe/wheel cylinder job on a SER3,which I belive is what your brakes are I had to repeat the above 2 cycles.The old 2a was always easier,but when they failed with regularatory they all went out in sympathty:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool ::cool:
Andrew

[JayBoRover]

I got all excited with a plausible theory on the speedo repair that I couldn't wait for the weekend and daylight. I donned my head-torch and set to work. Stuee and Brute take the prize ... IT WORKS!!! :banana::banana::banana:. Flattening the end of the cable did the trick. In fact, I might have flattened it a little bit much (although it was hard to tell I'd flattened it at all) because it became a lot more difficult to get right "home" at the drive end. Once it did slip in it worked a treat:cool:.

As a bonus the speedo is rock steady from 0 to 60kph (yes, I opened the gate at the end of the driveway and went around the block for a celebration test:angel:). I think I'll claim that as a professional job of rebuilding the speedo, rather than maybe the cable needed a little more squashing:p.

I'm a happy lad again:).

Maybe I should try bleeding the brakes again while I'm on a roll, but it's dark, getting colder, I have a nice cup of coffee sitting in front of me and there is absolutely NO :no2: chance of getting my wife out to pump the brakes for me while I play about at the drums:D.

[stuee]

Maybe I should try bleeding the brakes again while I'm on a roll, but it's dark, getting colder, I have a nice cup of coffee sitting in front of me and there is absolutely NO :no2: chance of getting my wife out to pump the brakes for me while I play about at the drums:D.

I've got a vac bleeder you can borrow. I can stick it in the car and drop it off after work tomorrow if you like?? I can bleed brakes without the wife now :angel:

[JayBoRover]

I've got a vac bleeder you can borrow. I can stick it in the car and drop it off after work tomorrow if you like?? I can bleed brakes without the wife now :angel:
That would be awesome! Gael will be out tomorrow night so I could try a bleed tomorrow evening then. Gael will be home around 3pm but then going out at 4:30 till about 6:15. You could leave it in the letterbox or just inside the gate unless Gael can remember to leave the gate open for you to drop it at the house. Do you need me to PM you the address or do you still have it?

[stuee]

That would be awesome! Gael will be out tomorrow night so I could try a bleed tomorrow evening then. Gael will be home around 3pm but then going out at 4:30 till about 6:15. You could leave it in the letterbox or just inside the gate unless Gael can remember to leave the gate open for you to drop it at the house. Do you need me to PM you the address or do you still have it?

I've put it in the car and I still have the address. If the gates open Ill take it up to the house, otherwise in the post box or inside the gate, where ever it fits.

[JayBoRover]

I rang an LPG installation place today for a chat about getting the 101 LPG installation certified. Not looking good:(. He said they can't certify it unless they installed it and supplied all the parts. He said they have to send away all the receipts and proof of component compliance with Australian Standards to the Energy Office or Dept of Energy or some-such and then they get issued with a compliance plate to attach. He said I'd have to get an engineer to certify it. When asked if he could suggest an engineer that could do that he said he couldn't help - other than to sell me a LPG kit installed.

So I rang the previous owner to get the history of the LPG installation and it was pretty much as I thought. It was installed in the UK but since getting here pretty much everything other than the mixer and tank have been changed for Australian complianced parts. He said he didn't have any issues with getting it checked in Victoria, although it didn't get a RWC as it was just going on Vic Club plates.

So now I'm thinking of just ripping it out. So far it's been far more trouble than it's worth! I fear though that if I rip it out and return for inspection that they'll want to see the LPG installation because it is referred to in the defect list. If the installation was never certified in the first place I see no reason why I can't rip it out - after all it just looked like an air receiver tank for the on board, engine driven, air compressor. I can say I replaced the big tank that the inspector thought was an LPG tank with the small one in the nose now hooked up to the air compressor. I can even demonstrate that the air comp works. Arrrggghhh.

[grey_ghost]

Hi mate,

Sorry to hear of your problems with the LPG system. My 101 came directly from the UK with an LPG system, and when I went to get the system certified I had the same issue. The LPG company wouldn't certify it because it was a UK system and wouldn't pass OZ regulations. The company basically said "you need to rip it out and start again."

I then sought advice from people - some say the rover v8 wil run fine on lpg, some say long term it's not a good thing..

The main decision for me - I want to eventually do some outback touring and I believe that getting LPG in the middle of nowhere was difficult.

So I made the decision to rip it out - one day I want to fit a second tank...

When I discussed my plan with the mechanic (the RWC tester) he agreed - as long as I let him completely remove the system, which I readily agreed to..

As your system was listed as defective - why can't you remove it and tell them the truth? It wasn't worth fixing so you had it removed?

Best of luck.

Cheers,
Tom.

[JayBoRover]

I've got a vac bleeder you can borrow. I can stick it in the car and drop it off after work tomorrow if you like?? I can bleed brakes without the wife now :angel:
The vacuum bleeder worked a treat on the front brakes:cool:. So easy to do on my own. Awesome. Although it was only the front brakes that I had worked on, replacing the jump pipe and thereby emptying the front system, the bleeder worked so well I decided to flush all the fluid on the back brakes too. I should have left well enough alone!:(

I think I've tried every trick I've come across but still no joy. Firstly I just hooked up the vacuum bleeder as I had for the fronts and pulled fluid through until it was clean, new fluid from both sides. But a press of the brake pedal goes to the floor the first time then half way and feels good the second time. I removed both rear wheels and the drums, wound all four shoe adjusters right back and put a ratchet tie-down strap around the brakes shoes on both sides. Then bled again with the vacuum adjuster. Still no good.

So then I hooked up some clear tube and got the wife out to help with a traditional bleed to see if I could see any air-bubbles coming out with the fluid. (The vacuum bleeder makes this hard to see because a lot of air obviously comes in via the bleed nipple thread and/or around the connector, making the fluid all aerated). I got two small bubbles from one side but clean and pure both sides apart from that. Tried the pedal again but no change.

I thought I'd better check that the problem was just with the rear brakes so I clamped the rear jump hose and the pedal was instantly good. Half pedal travel on the first pump and it was solid. Removed the clamp and the pedal goes to the floor.:(

So I couldn't get it sorted this weekend, and I have other things arranged for next weekend, so it's going to be a couple of weeks before I can get to it again. Aaarrggghhh:wasntme:

[Brute]

Thy wedging something between the apportioning valve and the lever to stop the spool moving out, should give you a better chance

[Homestar]

As Brute said - the apportioning valve will need to be in a bit to make life easier for you. I just undid the locknut and wound the adjuster bolt in and that made things much easier.

I got my brakes to 90% just by letting gravity do the work. Wound all the brakes on hard with the adjusters, then used a small piece of clean clear hose on the bleed nipple, open the bleeder up and just keep topping up the reservoir until all the bubbles are gone. I did this once I'd got all the old fluid out, so I could swap the clean fluid over each time and not waste it.

After that, I had an assistant (Mick) in the front seat while I wizzed around underneath doing each corner a couple more times.

Readjust the brakes and all was good. That was from a totally enpty system as I replaced all the flexible lines like you.

Keep at it - they are a bit of a PITA, but no different from any other series LR brakes I've worked on.

[JayBoRover]

More playing with the 101 until after dark today. It's becoming a habit:D. Anyway, had a play with the apportioning valve because I figured I'd follow the advice here and fool it into thinking there was a load aboard so it would allow full fluid flow to the rear drums. So I found a piece of steel rod, with a nicely angled plate welded on the end, just the right length to prop between the diff housing and the adjustable lever on the apportioning valve. Set it in place with the angled plate resting against the back of the adjuster and then lightly tap the rod to drive the plate along and pressure the valve. Doesn't move!:mad: It seems like the valve is probably stuck if it's supposed to move. At rest there is a few millimetres clearance between the end of the adjustable lever and the end of the valve. My prop rod takes up this clearance and then I can keep tapping it down and the valve doesn't move.

So tomorrow's job will be to remove the valve and have a play. While I was in the neighbourhood though, and seeing as I'll have to drain the rear fluid system anyway to remove the apportioning valve, I did replace the rear brake jump hose. So now both the front and rear jump hoses are brand spankers.:cool: Hoping for some better news tomorrow but I suspect it'll become a job bigger than me. I'm about to go and re-read Stu's experience as a refresher:angel:.

[stuee]

More playing with the 101 until after dark today. It's becoming a habit:D. Anyway, had a play with the apportioning valve because I figured I'd follow the advice here and fool it into thinking there was a load aboard so it would allow full fluid flow to the rear drums. So I found a piece of steel rod, with a nicely angled plate welded on the end, just the right length to prop between the diff housing and the adjustable lever on the apportioning valve. Set it in place with the angled plate resting against the back of the adjuster and then lightly tap the rod to drive the plate along and pressure the valve. Doesn't move!:mad: It seems like the valve is probably stuck if it's supposed to move. At rest there is a few millimetres clearance between the end of the adjustable lever and the end of the valve. My prop rod takes up this clearance and then I can keep tapping it down and the valve doesn't move.

So tomorrow's job will be to remove the valve and have a play. While I was in the neighbourhood though, and seeing as I'll have to drain the rear fluid system anyway to remove the apportioning valve, I did replace the rear brake jump hose. So now both the front and rear jump hoses are brand spankers.:cool: Hoping for some better news tomorrow but I suspect it'll become a job bigger than me. I'm about to go and re-read Stu's experience as a refresher:angel:.

See if the valve pulls out. I believe in the rest position its actually open, its only when pressure is applied that it closes, so you need the angled plate to stop it closing during bleeding. I don't know if the vacuum bleeder is enough to close the valve, but definitely modulating the pedal moves it out on both the valves I've used. The old valve I replaced leaked when you pressed the pedal too!

[JayBoRover]

See if the valve pulls out. I believe in the rest position its actually open, its only when pressure is applied that it closes, so you need the angled plate to stop it closing during bleeding. I don't know if the vacuum bleeder is enough to close the valve, but definitely modulating the pedal moves it out on both the valves I've used. The old valve I replaced leaked when you pressed the pedal too!
Ah okay. So maybe it's open now and the vacuum bleeding it makes it close. I'll check for that. Does it seems right that there's only about 2 or 3 mm air gap between the end of the valve and the adjustable lever with no load in the bed.

(That is "no load" which is actually quite a load with the spare wheel handing off the steel framed rear door, the LPG system, the Nocken winch and the world's heaviest tow bar system all combining to make my Tare weight 2,560kg! With GVM of 3,143kg that leaves me with 580kg for load. Put 87kg of petrol in, a pair of people of 160kg and that leaves 333kg for removable load!) You can understand why I'm thinking of removing the LPG system as a simple way of dealing with the lack of certification for the installation.

[Brute]

Pretty sure it mentions the GVM being increased to 3600 odd in that James Taylor 101 book, take that with you next time you go to the pits, or just put a new plate on and show them it.

[JayBoRover]

So I've removed the apportioning valve, complete with the bracket, the coil, the vertical rod and the bracket from the diff housing end. The only bolts that wanted to play were the "end of the line" ones of the entire system, so I removed the whole thing:).

I pulled everything apart on the workbench and the valve now moves freely in and out a fair bit (I'll measure the travel after lunch). So I'm bead blasting everything and will paint it all before putting it all back on again. Looking good so far.

[101 Ron]

My 101 with winch, LPG, heavy duty bars front and rear with extra tool box and jerrycan holders, heavy diff protector plates front and rear,engine driven compressor,and the extra weight of Zeus disc brake conversion,etc comes in at about 2500kg.
Luckly mine is one of the Aussie 101s with the 3500 kg gross weight.
I never had a problem bleeding the brakes front or rear on my 101.....in fact it is easy every time I need to do it.
I have only a few mm of clearance to the piston on the brake proportioning valve.............I suspect my valve is stuck and not working.
The brakes themselves at the rear work OK.
In fact I just recently had to reline the rear shoes for wear.
The 101 if the brake system is OK will gravity bleed given time.

[stuee]

So any luck with the brakes John?

[JayBoRover]

Hey Stuee. I keep thinking about you every time I walk into the shed and see the brake bleeder sitting there;). I need to get back to that little job but I sold the Dakar Rally bike so have to clean it up, put it back together (looks better with an engine in it:)), crate it and send it away.

I got the 101 rear brakes so there's no air coming out but still braking is a 2-pump of the brake pedal affair. I found the vacuum bleeder was sucking a lot of air through the bleed nipple threads so went back to manual bleeding. I'm pretty sure the rear brakes are bled well so want to go back to the front again. I'll confirm that with a clamp on the rear hose first though.

I'll give you a ring some time and see about getting your pressure bleeder back to you. (I'm normally pretty good with returning borrowed stuff so I'm a bit embarrassed at still having it:angel:).

[stuee]

No stress on getting it back yet mate. I don't need it any time soon so if you think you need it more then you can hold onto it.

[Brute]

John, take the bleed nipple out and give the thread a nice coat of copper grease, stops the air sucking past and stops it rusting in too.

[Sitec]

Clamp all of your flex hoses off and try the pedal.. It should go solid. If it still allows for two pumps then the prob is in and around the master cyl or load bias valve.. If you have a solid pedal, remove one clamp at a time and gauge where most of the travel is.. Pays to have all the wheels off the ground too and make sure that all the adjusters are holding the shoes tight to the drums.. If one adjuster is not working, or a brake shoe is in backwards so that the pin is not working on the cam, then one shoe can cause two pumps! Good luck.

[JayBoRover]

So I bought an Ordinance Trailer (thanks to Mick_Marsh and bacicat:thumbsup:).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/145.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/101%20Trailer_zpsvh2kjk9o.jpg.html)
Now all I have to do is unite it with my 101 - they're about 3,500km apart at the moment.:(
Really looking forward to seeing it one day.

[Mick_Marsh]

Congratulations on an astute purchase, John.

What are your intentions with it? Are you going to be a rivet counter or change it around to suit your needs?

[JayBoRover]

Thanks heaps for pointing it out to me on eBay. I was watching occasionally but hadn't seen this one yet at the time you pointed it out - you were on to it pretty smartly. As you know, I had been keeping an eye out for a fair while.
My intention is to tidy it up and make it legal and reliable. No major changes, but not rivet counter proof either:angel:. I used to have a 6x4 trailer on Toymota split rims and just used it around my block to gather firewood and clear leaves and fallen limbs. I'd deliver the firewood to my elderly neighbour, as my wife didn't like the fireplace we had so it got ripped out. Very occasionally I used it to cart my dirt bike but 6' is just too short, even with the bike loaded diagonally. So the ordinance trailer will do similar duties behind the 101 as well as cart my dirt bike to the odd enduro but loaded straight, seeing as I have likely sold my enclosed trailer. Mainly it's to look cool behind the 101:cool:. It should be superb for that job.

[Homestar]

Yes, it will do that job very nicely. I was certainly one of the best trailers there, and only needs minor work. I was a very good buy. :)

[Mick_Marsh]

So, John, I've been having a look at the trailer.
If you are going to tow it back to WA, there are a few things that will need to be done to it.

For starters, it needs new tyres. The ones on it are down to the canvas in patches.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/102345d1448455456-jayborovers-101-dsc_6090.jpg
It will need a new tail light lens, new tail lights or a trailer board.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/102346d1448455456-jayborovers-101-dsc_6089.jpg
The brakes need sorting. A new master cylinder for starters. That is why I ask if you are a rivet counter.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/102347d1448455456-jayborovers-101-dsc_6073.jpg

Other things that will need fixing:
The jockey wheel is seized.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/102348d1448455456-jayborovers-101-dsc_6074.jpg
A hand brake lever needs to be sourced.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/102349d1448455456-jayborovers-101-dsc_6095.jpg

Not a lot really. It's a great trailer. I am yet to check the brakes in the wheels.

[JayBoRover]

Thanks for that Mick. I'm certainly not a rivet counter to the extent of worrying about using an aftermarket hydraulic master cylinder. My preference will be to get it trucked across and deal with the issues back here I think.
Could you get the overall dimensions for me (including the drawbar) and what's your estimate of the weight? I think a transport company would want to know that. I assume that the seized jockey wheel doesn't prevent it from being moved, seeing as you collected the trailer and got it to your place.
Cheers

[Homestar]

No road trip John? :D

[JayBoRover]

1T Cargo trailer arrived to its new home safe and sound:cool:. I was only a tiny bit worried when the yard guy couldn't remember where the trailer was and then couldn't find it in the freight depot. Eventually found it tucked away in a corner behind a gate, hidden by all the B-train trailers. Very happy!:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/509.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/PC150006_zpsrhf9vqsf.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/510.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/PC150005_zpsdvletgfj.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/511.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/PC150004_zps6jbua42a.jpg.html)

Thanks Mick and Bacicat for the help in sourcing it and getting it here. I'll never sell it because it cost a bomb to transport here!:eek:

[Homestar]

Good to see it arrived safe and sound. Looks the buisness behind the 101. :)

Mick did all the hard work, he deserves the credit for this. :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Yep. They're a great trailer for the 101.
Is it big enough for you?
'Twas no troubles. I had fun moving it around. I should have kept it. Daisy chained the three of them behind the 101.

[JayBoRover]

Yep. They're a great trailer for the 101.
Is it big enough for you?
'Twas no troubles. I had fun moving it around. I should have kept it. Daisy chained the three of them behind the 101.
Will it torture you if I post a photo of the trailer behind the 101 with my road race bicycle strapped on it?? :D
Maybe with me in the drivers seat wearing my cycling kit?:wasntme:
Seriously though, it is a great looking trailer and certainly big enough. I didn't really realise how much wider than the 101 they are:eek:. I can't wait to get it and the 101 licensed now:cool:.
I owe you one, that's for sure.

[Mick_Marsh]

Will it torture you if I post a photo of the trailer behind the 101 with my road race bicycle strapped on it?? :D
No.

Maybe with me in the drivers seat wearing my cycling kit?:wasntme:
As long as we don't see the crotch area. This is a "G" rated forum.

Seriously though, it is a great looking trailer and certainly big enough. I didn't really realise how much wider than the 101 they are:eek:. I can't wait to get it and the 101 licensed now:cool:.
I owe you one, that's for sure.
Yep. They are wide. Very handy too. They need a bit of weight in them to get the suspension moving.
Post up pics of what you do to it. I'm thinking of getting another one or two to have a play with. I like what Sitec did with his draw bar.

Oh, you do realise I am a cyclist. I have three push bikes.
I cycle for pleasure.

[cooee]

hi jay bo
your trailer looks great behind your 101 sits well on to towbar
happy travels
cheers cooee