Maxi Drives

[Crocodile Dundee]

Hello to All ,new to this world of LANDROVER Paradise, looking to put Maxidrives to my 130 crew cab, what do you experts believe what would be the benefits and the positives and negatives in the Maxi Drives
Am really loving my 130 and want to make the right choice:cool:

[weeds]

Just axles? or axles and locker??

[Crocodile Dundee]

both

[p38arover]

Are they still available?

[Cammo]

P38,
MR Auto are still making the maxi locker for sals diffs. Axles and drive flanges available through them or Hytuff (Barry?)

[tyne]

I recently put axels and flange in my 130 along with an ARB locker, wouldn't be without em. If you tow regularly, carry heavy loads or head off road on a regular basis go for it... I did rear only!

[rijidij]

Andrew ,
Your 130 has the 'Rover' type rear diff, so I dont think you'll be able to get a Maxi Drive locker, but you can get the axles and flanges. An ARB locker might be a good option.
Cheers, Murray

[Crocodile Dundee]

Andrew ,
Your 130 has the 'Rover' type rear diff, so I dont think you'll be able to get a Maxi Drive locker, but you can get the axles and flanges. An ARB locker might be a good option.
Cheers, Murray

Hello Murray, we are going to change the rear Diff to Salisbury then will be able to put on Maxi Drive, Murray can't wait for Rijidij Bull Bar
Cheers
Andrew
Just wanted to know what would be the benefits and cons of maxi drives

[simmo]

Pro; indestructible reliable.
cons ; expensive.

[MLD]

I did a sals conversion to a Puma 130 fitted with the maxi rear locker, axles and flanges. I stole the sals off my 110 which was a bolt in exercise. I wouldn't have gone to the expense if i didn't think it was worth it.

a pic of a sals C&P next to a rover C&P. The C&P are 4.11's but the ring size will be the same for the 3.54.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/202.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/308.jpg

MLD

[weeds]

with maxi you need to cut and weld the diff....so a bit more involved

I have front and read ARB's with hy-tuff axles and flanges, the axles and flanges have been fitted for maybe eight years with zero sign of wear. never had an issue with the lockers apart from damaging an air line in the first month of ownership, carried joiners ever since and never needed them

Ashcroft is also another option Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/locking-differentials/ashcroft-locker.html)

quite surprised all the auto locker guys haven't chimed in

[BilboBoggles]

I did a sals conversion to a Puma 130 fitted with the maxi rear locker, axles and flanges. I stole the sals off my 110 which was a bolt in exercise. I wouldn't have gone to the expense if i didn't think it was worth it.




Just curious - I thought the 110 Salisbury diff was not rated for a 130, something about the size and diameter of the axle tubes. The 130 Salisbury is unique to 130's and quite hard to get hold of.

[VladTepes]

I have a Maxidrive on my Sals diff. Love it.

For Rover Diffs (e.g. my front, which I'll do one day) I reckon the e-diff is the way to go.

[rick130]

Just curious - I thought the 110 Salisbury diff was not rated for a 130, something about the size and diameter of the axle tubes. The 130 Salisbury is unique to 130's and quite hard to get hold of.
The 130 and HD 110 Sals uses thicker wall tubes than the standard 110 Sals.

The TJM Pro Locker is based on the old Jack McNamara locker and is arguably a better design than the ARB, and I think Eaton have an E-Locker too.

The downside of the Maxi one is fitting (cutting the axle tube and welding the actuator block) and supposedly it can be a little slower to engage.

The other alternative is a Detroit Locker.
Cheap and easy to fit and no air compressor, air or vacuum lines or wiring to run as with the Malay activated lockers.

[isuzurover]

If you need to buy the axle then I would build a 35 spline sals w-ARB or McNamara locker if you can afford it.

It will be 1-2k more than a sals MD locker but apart from changing the oil you will never need to worry about it again.

FWIW I have one sals with an MD Locker (fitted myself) and one with an ARB locker and 24 spl MD/HTE axles. I can't say I have a preference between the 2. The MD is significantly slower to disengage at times but that has never been a problem.

[MLD]

Following on from Rick's response to the 130 tube thickness. I have a regular 110 sals not the HD. Of the 3 or 4 examples i have seen (photos only) of a sals falling apart each were where the tube fits to the diff housing. There are various causes for a failure i.e., the diff housing bearing the unsprung weight of the wheels when stranded or repetitive flexing forces of corrugations or being over laden. To my lay logic the thickness of the tubing would not have likely prevented that type of failure from those causes.

There is an Eaton E-Locker for the sals, same for the P38 and rover diff centres. I went with the e-locker for the front. I had trouble with the first centre but the replacement has been trouble free. A click of a button on, click of a button off. No air lines, no compressors.

If your maxi is sticking when engaging and disengaging it could be the spring tension. Too much tension the vacuum won't overpower the ball in the detent in the actuator. Same when disengaging. It's something else to consider if you are experiencing slow response from your maxi. Personally I have no delay disengaging. It usually disengages within half rotation of the wheel. The difference with the maxi (light on when engaged) and ARB, TJM, Ashcroft etc is the light is independent to the engagement or disengagement. You might be experiencing the same minor delay with the air locker but you wouldn't know it. Rider to that is the front locker when the wheels are turned left or right. Most front lockers will not disengage freely in that situation because of the variable tension (on the axle) from each wheel at the diff centre. i'm referring to the situation as you move to the extremes of steering lock not necessarily just off centre.

MLD

[isuzurover]

...

If your maxi is sticking when engaging and disengaging it could be the spring tension. Too much tension the vacuum won't overpower the ball in the detent in the actuator. Same when disengaging. It's something else to consider if you are experiencing slow response from your maxi. Personally I have no delay disengaging. It usually disengages within half rotation of the wheel. The difference with the maxi (light on when engaged) and ARB, TJM, Ashcroft etc is the light is independent to the engagement or disengagement. You might be experiencing the same minor delay with the air locker but you wouldn't know it. Rider to that is the front locker when the wheels are turned left or right. Most front lockers will not disengage freely in that situation because of the variable tension (on the axle) from each wheel at the diff centre. i'm referring to the situation as you move to the extremes of steering lock not necessarily just off centre.

MLD

Anyone who uses an MD locker for serious offroading knows that the light goes off instantly, however in many cases (especially when cornering or windup) that there will be a 2nd hiss later when it disengages fully. (I use 15psi compressed air to actuate my MD locker as I have no vacuum system - so no shortage of pressure to overcome detent spring tension).

Because ARBs need air pressure to keep them locked, and disengage instantly when that pressure is lost, it is one of the (few) advantages an ARB has over an MD.

[weeds]

Anyone who uses an MD locker for serious offroading knows that the light goes off instantly, however in many cases (especially when cornering or windup) that there will be a 2nd hiss later when it disengages fully. (I use 15psi compressed air to actuate my MD locker as I have no vacuum system - so no shortage of pressure to overcome detent spring tension).

Because ARBs need air pressure to keep them locked, and disengage instantly when that pressure is lost, it is one of the (few) advantages an ARB has over an MD.

I was always under the impression that the light only goes off when the locker disengages and only comes on when engaged

[isuzurover]

I was always under the impression that the light only goes off when the locker disengages and only comes on when engaged

The bolded bit is more or less correct, the light is on when the locker is **fully** engaged. The light however goes off as soon as the locker starts to disengage.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Anyone who uses an MD locker for serious offroading knows that the light goes off instantly, however in many cases (especially when cornering or windup) that there will be a 2nd hiss later when it disengages fully. (I use 15psi compressed air to actuate my MD locker as I have no vacuum system - so no shortage of pressure to overcome detent spring tension).

Because ARBs need air pressure to keep them locked, and disengage instantly when that pressure is lost, it is one of the (few) advantages an ARB has over an MD.I was always under the impression that the light only goes off when the locker disengages and only comes on when engagedTo address the first comment first.

ARB require air pressure to remain locked, is rather a disadvantage than an advantage. The reason is that if you are negotiating an obstacle that requires the locker and you either, pull an air line or lose the compressor you are immediately unlocked. This may or may not be associated with an indication on the dash.

With the Maxi-drive you have to command the change. i.e. it will remain in it's locked state until you command it to unlock.

In regard to the light on the Maxi, it is a simple electrical connection attached to the actuator, when the actuator/slider is in the fully locked position it closes the circuit to ground and the light on the dash illuminates. When the actuator moves to unlock the circuit is broken and the light goes out.

[isuzurover]

...

ARB require air pressure to remain locked, is rather a disadvantage than an advantage. The reason is that if you are negotiating an obstacle that requires the locker and you either, pull an air line or lose the compressor you are immediately unlocked. This may or may not be associated with an indication on the dash.

...

Yes it is a disadvantage but only a minor one IME. The compressor that runs my lockers in the 110 also runs the air springs. So if I "lose the compressor" I have bigger problems. I would also have enough air in the tanks to operate the lockers a couple of hundred times with no compressor.

The only problem I have had with the ARBs was the OE electro-pneumatic solenoids getting gummed up with oil and dirt and not working. Mainly due to poor location of the solenoids in what was intended to be a temporary install. Funnily enough this has only been the front. I unlimately will dump all the ARB switchgear and solenoids for purely pneumatic switches.

[tonic]

I have a Maxidrive on my Sals diff. Love it.

For Rover Diffs (e.g. my front, which I'll do one day) I reckon the e-diff is the way to go.


If I ever do it, I'll be doing E-Locker front and back. They make them for all LR diffs now. For the Sals you just need to give them your first born and your left one.


The best price I have seen so far is the P38 diff in the E-Locker, then the LR.


I like the idea of one wire and a switch.

[tonic]

Oh, and my mates had Maxi Drive front and rear in his 130 for years, they are great.

[2stroke]

Anyone who uses an MD locker for serious offroading knows that the light goes off instantly, however in many cases (especially when cornering or windup) that there will be a 2nd hiss later when it disengages fully. (I use 15psi compressed air to actuate my MD locker as I have no vacuum system - so no shortage of pressure to overcome detent spring tension).

Because ARBs need air pressure to keep them locked, and disengage instantly when that pressure is lost, it is one of the (few) advantages an ARB has over an MD.

Well I use my Maxidrive for "serious offroading" and I know that when I turn it off the light doesn't turn off till the diff unlocks because the switch for the light is on the actuator and can't turn off until the actuator moves the locking dog away from the carrier. I have 2 airlockers on my suzuki and they don't disengage any quicker when the locking dogs are under load. I think they're both a good product.

[isuzurover]

Well I use my Maxidrive for "serious offroading" and I know that when I turn it off the light doesn't turn off till the diff unlocks because the switch for the light is on the actuator and can't turn off until the actuator moves the locking dog away from the carrier.

The two bolded bits are contradictory!!!

As explained, the light turns on when the locker is fully engaged and the actuator piston touches the isolated bolt that provides -ve to the light. However, when unlocking, as soon as the piston starts to move away from the bolt, contact is lost, the light turns off, but the piston still needs to move another 1" or so until the diff is unlocked.


EDIT - I have attached a pic which hopefully makes things clear.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[2stroke]

I see what you're getting at now but mine unlocks all the way in one go, as in push the valve in and the light stays on until the locking dog unloads and the diff unlocks, all the way. Thanks for the pic by the way, I have a set of instructions for the Rover style Maxi somewhere around here but couldn't find it.
However my airlockers still don't unlock instantly if the locking dogs are loaded.
I prefer the Maxidrive but at the end of the day they all do the job.

[Crocodile Dundee]

Hello to All ,new to this world of LANDROVER Paradise, looking to put Maxidrives to my 130 crew cab, what do you experts believe what would be the benefits and the positives and negatives in the Maxi Drives
Am really loving my 130 and want to make the right choice:cool:

Good Morning to All, thank you everybody for replying to my Post much appreciated, just to let you know will be getting Maxi Drives for My Defender 130 Cant Wait and looking forward to Enjoying the Defender Love:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:: p:p:p:p:p

[weeds]

To address the first comment first.

ARB require air pressure to remain locked, is rather a disadvantage than an advantage. The reason is that if you are negotiating an obstacle that requires the locker and you either, pull an air line or lose the compressor you are immediately unlocked. This may or may not be associated with an indication on the dash.

With the Maxi-drive you have to command the change. i.e. it will remain in it's locked state until you command it to unlock.

In regard to the light on the Maxi, it is a simple electrical connection attached to the actuator, when the actuator/slider is in the fully locked position it closes the circuit to ground and the light on the dash illuminates. When the actuator moves to unlock the circuit is broken and the light goes out.

er, yep I understand how the ARB works.

so the way I read the other posts the light only comes on when engaged however there could be a delay in unlocking

I have never experienced a delay in locking the ARB, I assume all manual lockers would require the diff to be unloaded before it unlocks

[86mud]

I have had both - I had a 1986 Range Rover on 35" tyres with full F&R Maxidrive lockers, axles etc.

I now have a 1998 130 with F&R ARB lockers, Maxidrive axles, drive flanges and Ashcoft HD CV's.

Both lockers are great and really can not say there is any disadvantages with either of them.

There is a still a chance of both styles of lockers not working if a stick etc, damages the lines going to the diff. On my current rear locker I have used the ARB HD air line along with an extra protective casing, all securely tucked up to help to minimise the chance of a stick causing damage.

To me this is the only disadvantage of any locker - the vulnerability of the lines (air line, wires etc) going into the diff