Gen II Calibration

[TheTree]

I need to check my suspension calibration.

Am I correct in assuming that Gen II bags are calibrated the same as factory ones using the spacers described here

Air Suspension (http://www.mez.co.uk/p38-eas.html)

Steve

[p38arover]

As you probably noticed from that link, I drew up the dimensioned sketch of the calibration blocks. I have a set (currently they are with Scouse). Do you need them?

[TheTree]

Hi Ron

Yes I saw your rather good drawings on that link ;)

I managed to somehow stuff up my settings in all the mayhem after the fire... While checking the settings with the nanocom i accidentally touched "store" and it doesn't ask, it just does it :angry: so at the moment the beast is a little high at the front

I grabbed some 30mm nylon rod from the local bearing shop for the princely sum of $15.00 so I can knock up some blocks quickly.

I will probably borrow yours in the future to double check things

Regards
Steve

[Keithy P38]

To answer your question, yes. Gen II and Gen III bags are designed to work with factory calibration settings.

[davidsonsm]

The calibration is for the height sensors, yeah? So is the question more about equivalent spring rates for the factory height settings?

[FANTOM P38]

I've been thinking of making my own set of height blocks for some time
( just need to find some spare time ) but I was thinking of using timber,
do the blocks need to have the step as shown in photos or could a constant square 40x40 do the same job??

[TheTree]

I've been thinking of making my own set of height blocks for some time
( just need to find some spare time ) but I was thinking of using timber,
do the blocks need to have the step as shown in photos or could a constant square 40x40 do the same job??

Mate

On the page I linked he uses 30mm round which is an exact fit with no step needed

Broomhandle would most likely work, but the 30mm nylon rod is not expensive and is a little stronger than wood. Though as long as you keep it vertical wood is super strong under compression

Steve

[TheTree]

The calibration is for the height sensors, yeah? So is the question more about equivalent spring rates for the factory height settings?

I think you would need to deviate quite a bit from factory settings to affect the spring rates, could be an interesting exercise. Has anyone ever tried it?

Steve

[Hoges]

A gentle reminder that the height dimensions of the calibration blocks conforming to the "Official" dimensions as per Ron's drawings are relevant only when used in conjunction with a T4 (Testbook).

If you are going to do a DIY exercise using the Storey Wilson software, then the alternate dimensions contained in the link in Steve's post (Air Suspension (http://www.mez.co.uk/p38-eas.html)), requiring 4 separate sets of blocks are the ones to use, and wherein the rear axle plate to bump stop measurement is 5mm greater than the corresponding distance for the front axle-bump stop measurement. The 5mm difference is specified in the LR EAS Systems Information Document (SID).

Why so?: My speculation is that the Test Book contains specific algorithms which require only two calibration points, not related to 'real world' measurements. The test book takes the upper and lower voltage values obtained from sensors when the "official" calibration blocks are installed, and calculates the target bit values for the five height settings (including the extra high setting above max.). It then writes these automatically into the EAS ECU.

since we don't have access to the equations which LR use in the Test book then the DIY method, i.e. setting the bit values based on the correct reference displacement distance between axle plate and bump stop, provides accurate results.

This method also eliminates gross errors in using standard proxy values (i.e. top of wheel arch to floor/wheel centre distances etc which assume perfect body alignment /panel fit etc:eek:)

What is convenient however is to measure the wheel arch to wheel centre or wheel arch to floor distance for each corner at each height setting when the calibration rods are in place. You can then draw up a calibration chart for the vehicle wherein the "proxy" heights are a good representation ...for that vehicle..;)

sorry for the long rant...but it is important

[TheTree]

Hoges

Thanks for that mate, I am doing DIY but with the nanocom rather than the Storey Wilson software.

Making 4 blocks from 30mm nylon rod.

Since I only stuffed up std setting I will start there since I have a couple of other jobs to do as well :(

Steve

[derpomz]

After reading all this stuff about EAS, i am glad i am on coils. This stuff is just way beyond me.

[daf11e]

I thought the same many years ago but after spending heaps of money with so called specialists I read forums (rangeroversnet specifically ) many times....over the last 2 years I have rebuilt the EAS ie: valve block,compressor,airbags,dryer etc. Actually it's quite straight forward and once you've driven and towed with it nothing comperes IMHO .

[Keithy P38]

Yeah it sounds complex mate, but it's really quite simple (once you've had an inside look at how it works via Faultmate/nanocom/storey wilson, etc).

[DT-P38]

So what is LR charging for a calibration these days?

Has anyone enquired lately?

Maybe we could organise a group buy? 😇

[Hoges]

So what is LR charging for a calibration these days?

Has anyone enquired lately?

Maybe we could organise a group buy? 😇

Pay for them with Bit coins? :angel::wasntme:

[Rage Over]

I originally calibrated it using the heights of the wheel arches and I can confirm that it was never right.

Recently I recalibrated it by removing the bump-stops and just putting several offcuts of 1.5cm thick decking wood on the bump-stop perches at the heights I wanted (same number for each corner) and read out and saved the height sensor values.

Now it works flawlessly. That was the final key needed. Now for some air bag spacers so I can mess it up again... :D

Let me know what you think of the Gen II's ride quality on & off road, I've been reading mixed reviews...

[TheTree]

Well I made a set of Std height blocks and some mayhem ensued !

When it was resting on the blocks I got a "bad height sensor data" error, so I suspect the standard position has wear on the height sensors.

Tomorrow I will swap right with left and see what happens

Steve

[Rage Over]

If that's for your 1999 then I don't believe swapping from side to side will help you as LR started fitting handed sensors in 1997 unfortunately.

Maybe I'm wrong? Although I double-checked on RAVE and it definitely shows a change to the "newer" sensor in 1997.

[TheTree]

If that's for your 1999 then I don't believe swapping from side to side will help you as LR started fitting handed sensors in 1997 unfortunately.

Maybe I'm wrong? Although I double-checked on RAVE and it definitely shows a change to the "newer" sensor in 1997.

I think you may have it backwards.

If you look here you will see it's the earlier sensors which are "handed" they have part numbers whereas the later ones only have one number with no L or R specified

Allbrit.de - Ersatzteile für LAND ROVER & MG ROVER (http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=826236&SPRACHE=EN)

ANR2494 and ANR2495 for earlier front ANR4686 for the later ones

Steve

[Rage Over]

Hmm, interesting! I was fairly certain I had it right, but that wouldn't be the first time I've made a mistake! Time for me to do some more research. I'll be happy if that is the case (for mine anyhow)!

I just swapped the sensors around on a '95 that had it's original sensors (the bigger, slightly domed ones), which fixed the issue with one sensor having a dead spot... a bit puzzled now... :angel:

[daf11e]

I have swapped sensors over L to R on my 2000 4.6 no worries...just a twist.

[Rage Over]

Ah, okay. I think I understand now. You can swap them over on the newer ones, it just won't do as much unless you've also changed your normal height as well.

The reason that the replacement pre-97 sensors have different part numbers is because LR no longer supplies the original pre-97 sensor, which is why originally the Part database had only one part (ANR2494) which has been superseded with the two separate part numbers.

They instead supply the newer style sensor, which can go on either side, however as it mounts slightly differently it comes with an extra mounting bracket to fit the newer style sensor which is handed (the bracket, I mean).

On the newer post-97 sensor, I was wrong; it is not handed. However, swapping side to side on the newer sensor will not help as it does with the old sensor as there are two sets of arms inside the sensor which run on opposite side of tracks in the same offset (see photograph to see what I mean). Hence, the wearing is in the same spots when you twist it around.

On the older pre-97 sensors, they have two separate tracks, with two arms that are positioned on the same side. Hence, when you swap it over you turn the arms to a fresh side of the track.

See these photographs to see what I mean:
This is the pre-97 sensor:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1414.jpg

This is the post-97 sensor:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1415.jpg

This is the bracket that comes with the replacement for the pre-97 sensor (this is right hand side, the LHS one is slightly different - there are also matching shields):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1416.jpg

I spent way too much time on that haha... :angel:

EDIT: Here's the kit, by the way:
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/shopimages/products/britpart/normal/S/STC/STC3579AA.jpeg

[TheTree]

I can confirm that swapping the later sensors side to side seems to have no affect.:angry:

Steve

[Rage Over]

If you're feeling adventurous, you could try cutting it open and gently cleaning the track. I wouldn't hold much hope though.

You *may* be able to slightly bend the wiper arms over half a millimetre or so to a better part of the track but there really is almost no room to do that on the newer sensors.

Sadly, I'd say it's new sensor time if you're sure it's a sensor fault. :(

[TheTree]

I have grabbed a set from mtb_gary so I will swap with them and hopefully be able to calibrate properly

As far as ride comfort goes, it seems the choice of shock makes a big difference as per this thread

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/195992-peoples-thoughts-terrafirma-shocks.html

Steve