IIA bulkhead advice...best place to buy

[ando90]

G'day!!!
Just wondering if anyone has some good advice on purchasing a complete bulkhead...Is there anyone in oz selling/distributing them or do you have to import from uk/overseas....any good recommendations...
Will post some pics up of the old girl soon
Cheers!

[gromit]

There are a couple of places in the UK that re-manufacture them or make new ones.
Not cheap though......
New New Bulkheads - Pegasus Parts remanufacture new Land-Rover bulkheads for Series models. (http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/cat_496461-New-Bulkheads.html)
Refurb Ashtree Landrover International | Doors (http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/Pricelist.html)

Here it's a case of finding a donor vehicle.


Colin

[Homestar]

Yeah, you may just have t find the best one you can. Then go from there. I'm lucky with mine - it is in decent nick, but still requires new floor pans and some sections folding up and welding in. Look for items being wrecked in dry places like country NSW. My vehicle spent its life in Tamworth, so it's as rust free as you will find.

Getting good ones is getting harder.

There are plenty of places selling repair sections now, so the common areas are easy to get replacements for, and are a heap cheaper to both buy and ship.

[ando90]

Thanks for the info guys.
Will do a little more research into importing a complete unit.
Yikes....they are expensive though
Cheers

[Seriestwo]

It took me a while to find one, but when I did it cost me $150 to purchase it (including all the floor panels), I then sent it off to get sand blasted that cost $120 and now its going to cost about $250 to get repaired and re-sand blasted and undercoated. I think that's a pretty good price.

[isuzurover]

For those who are going to the trouble of sandblasting and repairing bulkheads - I recommend galvanising them - they will basically last forever then.

Even a perfect SH example free of rust and damage will cost less than GBP1500+shipping.

[debruiser]

there's a galv 6 cyl version for sale on gumtree at the moment. it's in Mackay, the guy wants $500 for it. (no it's not me) have a look for it, might be worth your time....

was going to let you find it... but then I felt like being nice.

1974 Land Rover Other Ute | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Mackay City - Bucasia | 1051622499 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bucasia/cars-vans-utes/1974-land-rover-other-ute/1051622499)

[keith73]

Go inland to find one they tend to be mostly rust free and cheap compared too getting one imported.Dont know why anyone want to import one when there's plenty good ones here.

[67hardtop]

For those who are going to the trouble of sandblasting and repairing bulkheads - I recommend galvanising them - they will basically last forever then.


Even a perfect SH example free of rust and damage will cost less than GBP1500+shipping.
I found an almost rust free bulkhead from a 1968 series 2a ex military only rust was just at the top of the brake pedal mount, had it sand blasted repaired the 50cent piece sized rust patch and took it to 3 galvanising places here in Adelaide and all three refused to galvanise it due to possibility of metal exploding (air trapped) in the vats and possible warping so I painted it then fish oiled it, waited for a few weeks for the smell to dissipate:censored:, now its ready to fit. just waiting for warmer weather coz im doing it in my driveway:(. Good luck.

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[The ho har's]

OR you could place an add in the Markets section and find someone or a Vendor on here who does this type of work;)

Unfortunately we live a little too far from you:)

Mrs hh :angel:

[Homestar]

I found an almost rust free bulkhead from a 1968 series 2a ex military only rust was just at the top of the brake pedal mount, had it sand blasted repaired the 50cent piece sized rust patch and took it to 3 galvanising places here in Adelaide and all three refused to galvanise it due to possibility of metal exploding (air trapped) in the vats and possible warping so I painted it then fish oiled it, waited for a few weeks for the smell to dissipate:censored:, now its ready to fit. just waiting for warmer weather coz im doing it in my driveway:(. Good luck.

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

That's interesting. I have some repair sections on their way so I can get mine back to new. Was going to galvanise it - hope I can find someone who will do it. Plenty have, so they must be fine to dip. I've never seen anything made by Land Rover that is air tight...;)

[isuzurover]

I found an almost rust free bulkhead from a 1968 series 2a ex military only rust was just at the top of the brake pedal mount, had it sand blasted repaired the 50cent piece sized rust patch and took it to 3 galvanising places here in Adelaide and all three refused to galvanise it due to possibility of metal exploding (air trapped) in the vats and possible warping so I painted it then fish oiled it, waited for a few weeks for the smell to dissipate:censored:, now its ready to fit. just waiting for warmer weather coz im doing it in my driveway:(. Good luck.

...

Hundreds of firewalls have been hot dip galvanised in AU, including SI(early and late types)/II/IIA/III/110. Galvanisers in Brisbane and Perth I have used have had no concerns.

[Bundy]

What about this one

land Rover series 2 bulkhead. | Heavy, Farming & Agriculture Equipment | Gumtree Australia Barossa Area - Williamstown | 1052374441 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/williamstown/heavy-farming-agriculture-equipment/land-rover-series-2-bulkhead-/1052374441?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=LF-automotive&mpch=ads)

[67hardtop]

Looks like a late 2a 6 cyl bulkhead

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[marting]

The galvanisers in Brisbane won't touch them now. I have tried over the last 12 months to find someone but had no luck. Ferro (at Narangba) who did my chassis and body cappings cited the air-pocket issue mentioned earlier in the thread, and warping as reasons they won't do them anymore.
Martin

[JDNSW]

The galvanisers in Brisbane won't touch them now. I have tried over the last 12 months to find someone but had no luck. Ferro (at Narangba) who did my chassis and body cappings cited the air-pocket issue mentioned earlier in the thread, and warping as reasons they won't do them anymore.
Martin

Possibly a customer blamed them for warping, but they may have found from experience that the relatively complicated shape and large surface area for the weight means that it retains a lot of zinc and this makes it uneconomic, the reasons given being an excuse not to touch something they will lose money on and be a difficult job.

John

[gromit]

I remember reading that people had made braces for the bulkheads to minimise distortion during galvanising. There may also be concern about the boxed in sections putting contaminants into the zinc bath.
I used to deal with a galvaniser in Dandenong and they were always cautious of anything that wasn't new steel going into the bath.

Here's another company in the UK that repair & galvanise bulkheads Andover Land Rover International - Land Rover Bulkheads & Restorations (http://www.andoverlandrover.com/)

A few comments regarding warping here Bulkhead jig (http://ollr.createaforum.com/technical-tips-questions/bulkhead-jig/)

Here's a good idea if you're regularly repairing bulkheads, a rotating bulkhead jig Series IIA 88 2.5 diesel (http://www.eastcoastrover.com/87.html)



Colin

[isuzurover]

When I fitted the galvanised bulkhead to my IIA I had to run a rope around it and compress it by turning a broom handle (to tighten the rope) enough to get the 2nd bolt in. However it was a replacement bulkhead on a chassis that had had a replacement outrigger fitted by the PO. I had not done a trial fit before Galvanising so I can't say if the bulkhead, chassis or just LR manufacturing tolerances was the problem. The rest of the bulkhead bolted up fine.

There is superficial warping (waves) on all the thin sections.

That is annoying to hear galvanisers are becoming difficult. The main problem is more likely the cost of zinc due to high surface area. I am sure if you indemnify them against warping it would still be possible???

[Lotz-A-Landies]

There are a number of issues,
As said before they want all traces of paint and oils removed first, so ideally it would be chemically stripped and then galvanised on the same day it comes out of the caustic.
You want the firewall dipped and inverted inside the bath then removed right way up and then immediately centrifuged. Most hot dip galvanisers don't like the last step because it is time consuming and difficult on large items like a firewall.

In the UK and elsewhere, places that do chemical stripping will also do a phosphate bath and then an electrostatic rust preventative paint bath. Very similar to the priming processes on high end modern cars. Unfortunately I haven't found anywhere in Sydney (or elsewhere in Oz) who do it. I would seriously consider it for both the firewall and door frames if I could.

[gromit]

There are a number of issues,

As said before they want all traces of paint and oils removed first, so ideally it would be chemically stripped and then galvanised on the same day it comes out of the caustic.
You want the firewall dipped and inverted inside the bath then removed right way up and then immediately centrifuged. Most hot dip galvanisers don't like the last step because it is time consuming and difficult on large items like a firewall.

In the UK and elsewhere, places that do chemical stripping will also do a phosphate bath and then an electrostatic rust preventative paint bath. Very similar to the priming processes on high end modern cars. Unfortunately I haven't found anywhere in Sydney (or elsewhere in Oz) who do it. I would seriously consider it for both the firewall and door frames if I could.

Centrifuging seems to be a specialised process for small components. Centrifuge Galvanising - Korvest Galvanisers (http://www.korvestgalvanisers.com.au/galvanising-process/centrifuge-galvanising/)
Prior to galvanising the parts are acid dipped to remove surface rust, oil etc. so as long as its paint free and no major areas of rust it shouldn't be a problem.

Galvanising is usually charged by weight but for a large surface area and something difficult to handle there would be an additional charge. The other interesting one was boat trailers, get a cost for a trailer then a boat trailer and I recon they charge extra because you can afford a boat !

Chemical stripping Quality Powder coating and sandblasting in Sydney, Australia :: Precision Coating Services :: PCS (http://www.precisioncoating.com.au/Chemical-Stripping.aspx)
But as you probably need to media blast first, then carry out repairs the only thing you'd gain is de-rusting inside the door pillars and any other areas the blasting couldn't reach. They only do powder coating so you'd have to take it elsewhere for finishing.


Colin

[isuzurover]

There are a number of issues,
As said before they want all traces of paint and oils removed first, so ideally it would be chemically stripped and then galvanised on the same day it comes out of the caustic.
You want the firewall dipped and inverted inside the bath then removed right way up and then immediately centrifuged. Most hot dip galvanisers don't like the last step because it is time consuming and difficult on large items like a firewall.

In the UK and elsewhere, places that do chemical stripping will also do a phosphate bath and then an electrostatic rust preventative paint bath. Very similar to the priming processes on high end modern cars. Unfortunately I haven't found anywhere in Sydney (or elsewhere in Oz) who do it. I would seriously consider it for both the firewall and door frames if I could.

Sorry Diana, but most of that is wrong or misleading.

Centrifuges are for small items like wheel rims. I doubt any/many galvanisers would have a centrifuge big enough for a firewall. Btw it is not needed.

There is no need to rotate/invert a firewall in the bath. If there is concern about air pockets it can be dipped upsode down or sideways. (or internal holes drilled).

Likewise there is also no need to galvanise it on "the same day" as any prep work. All galvanisers use an acid/caustic bath before galvanising, followed by a flux bath.

In the case of our 2 firewalls they were sandblasted first. My IIA firewall was in fact sandblasted by BOR as they are now known then left out in the rain to develop a thick layer of surface rust. I then bought it off them and repaired it but had it galvanised complete with surface rust - the prep work at the galvanisers removes that for no extra charge...

It is probably rover people turning up with a ridiculous list of requirements like that which stopped galvanisers accepting firewalls...

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Ben

I will accept some of your criticism but not all.
Sand blasting does not clear out the internal cavities of contaminates that the acid will have insufficient time to remove. The galvanisers only dip for at most a couple or three minutes.
Unless you invert in the bath you seriously risk an air pocket in the top corners of the "A" pillar, the centre divider and the connections in between. There is no way I would be drilling holes in those areas where rust is currently a major problem.
Unless you centrifuge or at least spin you get left with big thick lumps of gal that takes mechanical work to remove and leaves obvious tool marks.
I also forgot to mention that it is important to choose your galvaniser. Check their work before you contract.
Make sure they skim the bath before dipping and removing.
Don't get galvanising done in winter or cold, wet days.

[Yeats]

I have a 2A Galvanised firewall / Bulkhead in the shed somewhere. Can't remember if it is a six or four cylinder. From memory it has a gap each side in the pedal area which will require a flat blanking piece to cover. Will post some pics in the next couple of days. I've moved on from Series 2A stuff and am now concentrating on series 3's, so may as well sell it. Price will be $500. I'm about 5 mins from the highway at Taree, NSW.

[wally.aussie]

hi all,

i had my firewall and front radiator support panal done just recently and it was no problem. only cost 60 dollars all up and that was with a few smaller bits as well. there was no warpage to be found. so now the series 3 has a galvo chassie and firewall and front panal alll galvo. no more rust for this one . cheers wally.
it was hartways in navel base that did the galvo.:D