EAS issues, updated....

[deano2469]

hi all, i mentioned in a previous post my EAS was being uncooperative. I rebuilt the pump with the kit, rebuilt the valve block with the kit(drama with threaded plastic piece now fixed). put new o-rings in all the airbags...bought easunlock with a cable from ebay and proceeded to play. Mostly ok at start, but drama soon followed. I have gone from all working to now no response or very little fro car when plugged into computer and rear end will not pump up at all. I get the fault.7.vehicle has moved...i clear the fault, read no faults and yet nothing. If i go to read heights i get 123 123 109 109 every time even when car has moved well away and even when sitting on bump stops. if i make the pump work which it does on easunlock it will raise the front only. if i go to read heights page again, it says 123 123 109 109 still. now if i run the car and go through eas unlock i can go to heights and get an array of truer numbers..i swapped the rear sensors left to right previously and now i get 124 123 64 204. The last two are out of tolerance but i have no idea how to fix it. On the same page ..if i press up and down most corners react, front both up and down, rear i hear the solenoid click but no movement..if i hit down on the LHS it feels like the whole side lowers...I have no idea where to look now, still trying to find answers on google...any advice would be great, other than put springs in it...cheers

Deano

[TheTree]

Is your compressor running OK?

Do you have a bypass switch ?

Does it stay up overnight?

Sounds as if you may have leaks still so you need to work out where and sort them out

Steve

[wayneg]

If I were you I would put things back to how they were and start logicically to find the issue. Vehicle has moved should be ignored. If you have a bypass kit step 1 make sure all the bags and air lines are airtight. Step 2 Using the info on Paulp38a`s website identify the solenoid for each corner and test. once you know each solenoid is working correctly and is attached to the correct corner and you can get each corner to rise and fall only then start playing with heights and swapping sensors.

[deano2469]

If I were you I would put things back to how they were and start logicically to find the issue. Vehicle has moved should be ignored. If you have a bypass kit step 1 make sure all the bags and air lines are airtight. Step 2 Using the info on Paulp38a`s website identify the solenoid for each corner and test. once you know each solenoid is working correctly and is attached to the correct corner and you can get each corner to rise and fall only then start playing with heights and swapping sensors.

thanks Wayneg, yes i agree, i am going to put things back and try to retrace, i will try to find paulp38a as finding out each solenoid would be helpful.I have no bypass kit but have new bags coming hopefully and then i can try to check leaks properly. I can't seam to get air in the rears to check them at the moment but i will keep plodding on.

[deano2469]

Is your compressor running OK?

Do you have a bypass switch ?

Does it stay up overnight?

Sounds as if you may have leaks still so you need to work out where and sort them out

Steve

Hi Steve, mate she sagged in the front before i replaced everything, now sits down in rear...all the way to bump stops now. I have no bypass switch but have removed the relay under passenger seat to self level and it still went down.I agree that i must have leaks but am having drama getting air to rear bags to tes them..im sure its the bags as i replaced all o-rings and sprayed a lot of soapy water.

cheers

Deano

[davidsonsm]

Could be the non-return valves. They're notorious (for me anyway) at causing one end or the other to sag uniformily. Were they in good condition?

But yes, as stated, I'd pull the delay timer with the car pumped up to a level height and see if it drops overnight. Which will involve fitting a manual inflation kit. At least then you'll know if it's valve block related or not.

[davidsonsm]

Those rear sensors do sound dodgy though. The swapped sensor readings should be in the same range as the originally positioned sensors. Can you get hold of a known good spare pair?

[TheTree]

Pauls website is here mate

PaulP38A.com | Range Rovers and other Big Boy Toys (http://paulp38a.com/)

Tough without a bypass or pressure gauge

Plenty of soapy water and patience helps

Good luck mate

Steve

[poleonpom]

I had a similar issue and it turned out that the 2 orings for airlines had one side that was serrated, giving an imperfect seal and sending the suspension to the stops. I pulled them all out and replaced them with orings that are flat on both surfaces.

[poleonpom]

Btw, manual inflation kit is worth it's weight in gold. ..

[Nomad9]

Hi There,
Agree 100% here, disconnect all the air lines from the valve block and inflate manually, find leaks and fix them, eliminate something to give yourself something to work away from, having a datum point is very important. Once that is sorted move onto the valve block.
I had enough trouble with one rear air bag, however I fixed that got it 100% and them moved onto the valve block which had dramas in itself, yes I had to do it twice. However knowing all the air bags were OK made the problem the valve block and possibly sensors, for me it was just the valve block.

When I had everything uneven in regard to level I jacked the car up manually with four jacks at what I believed to be the normal road height, I then turned the ignition on and connected my Faultmate and recorded all the sensor readings, then removed the jacks let the vehicle down, set all the sensor settings to what I had recorded, I then ran the engine for five minutes to build up some pressure then shut the door, worked for me, perfectly level. Trying to do this using guess and resetting the sensor heights and letting the car do the work I found to be very hit and miss and very frustrating.

It'll all work out in the end and you will have gained valuable experience to share with others.

[davidsonsm]

Yep with a manual inflation kit you can use an air source to raise and lower the vehicle at whim. And read of the height settings wherever you choose. Whether that be using spacer blocks under the bump stops or good ole tape measure on the wheel arch. Sounds like what you need to help diagnose.

[deano2469]

thanks to all replys, looks like im on ebay for a manual inflation kit. I believe the non return valves spoken of were ok, if they are the ones that have two facing one way and on the other, they got new o-rings in the kit...the biggest thing is it all worked ok till i started using the easunlock. At one point i did have a cable that was dodgy and kept giving mr faults. I replaced back to laptop and short cable and was perfect. i will try and pick up some newer rear sensors as well and wait for the new bags to turn up.cheers for the link to paulp38.com steve, i will peruse today. its funny how when i raised and lowered the car just prior to no response at all, only the front went up and down and the light on dash stopped at right place thinking it was good but rear was still on bump stops....thanks again everybody.

[daf11e]

Deano once you have sorted out the bags if you find you need any bits for the valve block, air compressor, EAS pieces I have quite a few spares lying around just yell out as I would be more than happy to help out.

[deano2469]

cheers Daf11e, I might need a few bits...i think main culprit is reear sensors but will soon see hopefully. I realised another thing too, the computer with a couple of joiners in the usb cable (the dodgy one) is running easunlock on windows xp and the laptop with only the new connector cable is running windows 7..not sure if makes a difference but was getting rx and tx ff signals the same so i can only assume they were the same. I do wonder if the dodgy cable made a signal go to onboard to lock or freeze something, not sure how to reset to a factory spec so will plod on, swapping sensors back this weekend...thanks again for offer and i will let you know.

deano

[mtb_gary]

deano2469, I also run Win 7 for the EAS unlock. No dramas at all. If you find it is the sensors beware, there are 2 different types. The earlier ones had the cable as part of the sensor and the connector plug is up high on the chassis (mine is a 1996 model and has this variety). Then there is the newer type with a connector plug on the sensor itself. I have a set of these that I bought in error some time back not realising that there were different types of sensors throughout the manufacturing life of the vehicle :(.

Gary

[TheTree]

deano2469, I also run Win 7 for the EAS unlock. No dramas at all. If you find it is the sensors beware, there are 2 different types. The earlier ones had the cable as part of the sensor and the connector plug is up high on the chassis (mine is a 1996 model and has this variety). Then there is the newer type with a connector plug on the sensor itself. I have a set of these that I bought in error some time back not realising that there were different types of sensors throughout the manufacturing life of the vehicle :(.

Gary

Gary

Front or rear sensors ?

I noticed the early ones are specific L & R whereas the later ones can be swapped side to side

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Steve,

I have swapped L to R on the rears. Fronts so far have been Ok, so I have not tested them. If I get time I'll have a look over the weekend to see if they are L/R specific on the front.

I've just been looking at the Atlantic British web site. It appears that 95-96 models are not supposed to be L/R interchangeable as they have different part codes for Land R. So how come is mine working?

Gary

[TheTree]

Steve,

I have swapped L to R on the rears. Fronts so far have been Ok, so I have not tested them. If I get time I'll have a look over the weekend to see if they are L/R specific on the front.

I've just been looking at the Atlantic British web site. It appears that 95-96 models are not supposed to be L/R interchangeable as they have different part codes for Land R. So how come is mine working?

Gary

Mate that is a good question :o

Are the sensors you bought in error front or rear? I may well take them off your hands

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Steve

2 front and 2 rear. Yes I was kicking myself after I found out they didn't fit my car :mad:

I am on the lookout for replacement units as a backup for the current ones

Gary

[TheTree]

Steve

2 front and 2 rear. Yes I was kicking myself after I found out they didn't fit my car :mad:

I am on the lookout for replacement units as a backup for the current ones

Gary

Gary

I will PM you

Steve

[deano2469]

Steve,

I have swapped L to R on the rears. Fronts so far have been Ok, so I have not tested them. If I get time I'll have a look over the weekend to see if they are L/R specific on the front.

I've just been looking at the Atlantic British web site. It appears that 95-96 models are not supposed to be L/R interchangeable as they have different part codes for Land R. So how come is mine working?

Gary

hi Gary, the sensors are the type that have the plug up on the chassis...now, this may sound stupid and i would find it hard to argue...I swapped left to right as i said...it was dark but thought i could see fine and , this is where it gets stupid...I assumed that they would be bolted up the same way each side.DOH! on my chassis bracket that holds the sensor I have 4 holes..top, bottom, front and back of bracket...After replacing the diaphragm seal and rechecking all my seals and brackets, reassembling the whole valve block again...I thought i would take off the sensor that was reading 200 when the rest were in the 50's and 70's..bump stop as deflated to do block, was actually still air in even when used easunlock to drain...anyway. I thought as i undid it, wouldn't it be funny if i moved the sensor around to the other holes just to see what it said on easunlock...this time i had a light underneath with me and noticed the other two holes...the front and back were used before, I must have put them in the wrong place the first time so I put them into the holes in front and back position as opposed to top and bottom, wires still poke out of top and have successfully been swapped left to right. I went to other side and did the same and still got the right reading there, now both sides are within 10 of each other...and now with easunlock, i clear the faults and select heights...i get beeps and a bit of movement , then i got to calibrate and choose a height...all i get is solenoids vibrating rapidly and no movement...weird but i think im getting closer...when i first put valve block in and reconnected battery, i started car and front went up to top but back did not move, then with easunlock i chose a height and front went down and now won't go up again...i am recharging battery and will go at it again tomorrow, still no airbags, i think its a scam...we will see. thanks again to all who have showed an interest.