Well that was easy ......Not

[tonyci]

Going away for a couple of weeks had the D4 for a while but never had to access the spare. So in the safety of my garage I winch the wheel down drag it out a bit and then the fun starts. Ok I will preface this by saying I am a retired Accountant. Do you think I could get that damn centre piece out to free the wheel,took ages. Glad I was not on the side of a busy road or worse in the dark trying to change a flat.
I can imagine the blast I will get about Land Rover engineering if SHMBO ever gets a flat in the car.
Any one else struggle with this or is it really because I was an Accountant (and naturally mechanically incompetent).
Cheers
Tony

[Celtoid]

Going away for a couple of weeks had the D4 for a while but never had to access the spare. So in the safety of my garage I winch the wheel down drag it out a bit and then the fun starts. Ok I will preface this by saying I am a retired Accountant. Do you think I could get that damn centre piece out to free the wheel,took ages. Glad I was not on the side of a busy road or worse in the dark trying to change a flat.
I can imagine the blast I will get about Land Rover engineering if SHMBO ever gets a flat in the car.
Any one else struggle with this or is it really because I was an Accountant (and naturally mechanically incompetent).
Cheers
Tony


It's a bit finicky as can be rewinding the spare without jamming the cable. However, you did the right thing practicing in your garage and once used to it, both processes are pretty easy.


RE: Your wife ... that's what roadside assist is for. I only get dirty when I'm camping or prepping for. Any other time, I would call assist.


Cheers,


Kev.

[AnD3rew]

It's a stupid system and poorly engineered. Rear wheel carrier is much better solution.

[WhiteD3]

It's a stupid system and poorly engineered. Rear wheel carrier is much better solution.

X2.

Don't agree with the wheel carrier (unless for serious travelling) but you need to buy a bottle jack, jacking pad and wheel brace. The factory jack and brace are toys to be used at home in the garage on flat, level concrete only.

Rear the winch; always keep some tension on it (winding up or down). I've replaced the winch on the D3 and D4 under warranty.

Lots of threads and post here on this subject.

[ade]

I've used both wheel winch and the jack off-road. Never had a problem. Don't know why people don't like the jack. I find it works as it should off-road with a jack plate. The wheel can be a bugger to get of at times though

[Celtoid]

On the weekend I had three punctures I would have waved the flag for a rear wheel carrier, a double .... but I haven't had a puncture since then and that was almost 3 years ago (touch wood). So statistically the rear wheel carrier would be a PITA for me. I like to just open the hatch and ramp in whatever combo without having to swing something out the way first ... if you have the clearance to do so. Horses for courses and I get the fact that one set up is better than others in differing situations.


RE: the OEM Jack ... it works. I don't see it being any more dangerous than a bottle jack ... in fact, to me I can't quite factor how the bottle jack would be any safer at all. Same rules apply to a level surface, etc, etc.


I use a hydraulic jack at home but only because it's a bit easier to work and doesn't suffer from wear and tear. But it wiggles and moves whilst using and requires a bit of research to find the best place to apply it.


If the OEM jack was just built a bit heavier, I would be happy ... but then again .... it's designed for the odd occasion 'most' drivers get a flat and can't or won't get Road-Side Assist. That's the reality.

[theresanothersteve]

I find getting the spare wheel out from under the D3 with the tow bar tongue in place to be far more difficult than it should.

It is easier if you get the key and drop the whole bar assembly out of the way, but sometimes it seems to jam, making dropping it difficult.

I wonder if putting the spare wheel in the same place, but accessing it from the rear door (meaning you would have to unload the vehicle first) would be any worse than having to drop the towbar? At least we wouldn't have to put up with the useless spare wheel winch, $400 replacement buys a fair bit of my time for loading and unloading...

[Celtoid]

I find getting the spare wheel out from under the D3 with the tow bar tongue in place to be far more difficult than it should.

It is easier if you get the key and drop the whole bar assembly out of the way, but sometimes it seems to jam, making dropping it difficult.

I wonder if putting the spare wheel in the same place, but accessing it from the rear door (meaning you would have to unload the vehicle first) would be any worse than having to drop the towbar? At least we wouldn't have to put up with the useless spare wheel winch, $400 replacement buys a fair bit of my time for loading and unloading...

You've got to unload it anyway in it's current form if you have seven seats, as you have to raise them (rear seats) to get to the winch mechanism. Not much fun in the rain as I found out on my three punctures in one weekend trip. :mad:

[101RRS]

Tony - in addition to checking the spare have you tried jacking the car to full height - that will also be a bit of an eye opener - forewarned is forearmed as you have found out with the spare.

I first used mine in anger and the car nearly fell off the jack. I now take my 101 jack on trips - it has the height but will not go low enough for the RRS with a flat - so I use the RRS jack just to get it high enough for the hydraulic jack to fit under.

Also take particular note where the air compressor is as its cover with the little hole in it looks just like the hole in the chassis for the jack - in the rush to do things you can put the jack under the air compressor :(.

Garry

[Armitage_Shanks]

I agree that getting that centre piece through the centre of the rim is a pain.
You have to let out enough slack on the cable to be able to run the centre piece up the cable a few inches, and angle the centre piece near vertical so that it slips through the rim centre.
The design isn't much better on a Toyota, IMO.

[tonyci]

Tony - in addition to checking the spare have you tried jacking the car to full height - that will also be a bit of an eye opener - forewarned is forearmed as you have found out with the spare.

I first used mine in anger and the car nearly fell off the jack. I now take my 101 jack on trips - it has the height but will not go low enough for the RRS with a flat - so I use the RRS jack just to get it high enough for the hydraulic jack to fit under.

Also take particular note where the air compressor is as its cover with the little hole in it looks just like the hole in the chassis for the jack - in the rush to do things you can put the jack under the air compressor :(.

Garry
Cheers Gary
I will do that this weekend.
Tony

[Fatso]

I lower the wheel onto a piece of wood so as leave a gap between the ground and wheel , then push the do- hicky through from underneath .

[PaulGOz]

I have used the jack many times in the bush and the garage. I find it acceptable. Most times I use it I find jacking the car from off road height about 2 inches then lowering and resetting the jack gives a much more stabke final lift.

[tonyci]

Thanks for some useful tips and advice.
I can certainly recommend to any new D4 owner to have go at changing a tyre in the comfort of their own surrounds, rather then learning on the road.
And yes road side assist is the number one preference, when available.
Cheers
Tony

[alpick]

"And yes road side assist is the number one preference, when available."

#2 preference is an airbag jack with compressor inflation valve.

[Epic pooh]

I carry a little bottle jack and have changed a wheel by putting the vehicle into off-road mode, loosen wheel nuts, put little bottle jack under suspension arm of the affected wheel and start jacking, then magically the vehicle will lift the wheel itself ... lift jack up to support arm ... change wheel, remove jack ... cycle height, tighten nuts ... away you go !

This only works if you can get the bottle jack under the arm and take appropriate safety precautions ... but ... it's entertaining and a lot easier than the stupid factory jack.

[Fred Nerk]

And if you are frequently changing wheels you may be surprised (as I have been) to find out how good and quick a 12 volt rattle gun is. I also carry a torque wrench to set the final tension. Some people call that OCD :cool:

[Fred Nerk]

Now that's funny. No sooner than I made that post (above), the forum advertising offers me the services of a rehab clinic. :eek: Now I'm paranoid too.

[sheerluck]

.......I also carry a torque wrench to set the final tension. Some people call that OCD :cool:

Having recently had a wheel part company with the car I was driving, I also do the same.

Part of the weekly check now.

[Celtoid]

And if you are frequently changing wheels you may be surprised (as I have been) to find out how good and quick a 12 volt rattle gun is. I also carry a torque wrench to set the final tension. Some people call that OCD :cool:


I was gob-smacked at Xmas when I saw a local car place use a cordless drill and torque wrench to put the wheels back on my car.


Never seen that before and I'm 50.


Most impressed.

[PeterJ]

Another quick one, get under the car with a white paint pen and mark the jack locations, I used some arrows for the sweet spots and a big X near the compressor to ward away the evil doers, makes life easy on those dirty nights, in the mud, the only time it ever goes flat.

[Meccles]

Hi Tony, no it can be a real PIA as you have to wind out a lot more wire then you think to enable you to twist the thing with spring on it sideways a bit, then it only just fits through the hole in the wheel. Certainly not a late at night tired easy proposition. I think they figure most people will use roadside assist so who cares if it is difficult?

[Ean Austral]

I lower the wheel onto a piece of wood so as leave a gap between the ground and wheel , then push the do- hicky through from underneath .


I don't have one on my D3 as the long range tank is now there, but I have the Toyota version on our camper trailer and it sounds the same, I lower the spare onto the wheel levellers ( V shape bits of wood ) and its heaps easier as mentioned above.


Cheers Ean

[101RRS]

With reference to using the jack, see this thread in particular the last post made this morning.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Standard OEM Jack Failure (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic83465-45.html)

Garry

[tonyci]

Well Gary , lets hope our jacks are not made in Brazil.
Regardless of place of manufacture, it sounds like a good idea to replace the OEM
jack with something a little (safer) better.
Cheers
Tony

[Celtoid]

It's interesting to look at the photos and see how dry the screw looks.


I applied a very good quality grease to mine from day one and I had no issues in the 4.5 years I had the car, which included multiple wheel changes.


Anybody that has done metal work, or seen engineering workshops will attest to the effectiveness of just a bit of lube .... the lack there of can cause huge issues.


My jack was pretty well greased from delivery but I constantly cleaned and reapplied after each use.

[Fatso]

It's interesting to look at the photos and see how dry the screw looks.


I applied a very good quality grease to mine from day one and I had no issues in the 4.5 years I had the car, which included multiple wheel changes.


Anybody that has done metal work, or seen engineering workshops will attest to the effectiveness of just a bit of lube .... the lack there of can cause huge issues.


My jack was pretty well greased from delivery but I constantly cleaned and reapplied after each use.


Spot On !!!!!!

[101RRS]

These jacks have record of failure around the world in L322/D3/D4 and RRS models. I guess it will take a death before the authorities will force Landrover to do a safety recall on these things.

If I do have to use these jacks, even when changing a wheel, I also have additional safety supports of some kind in case the worst happens.

Garry

[Nomad9]

Hi There,
I have one of the electric drills with a socket on the end, for me makes the winding up and down easier, tend to travel with that and a Ryobi impact wrench all the time JIC. Since changing from the Coopers the battery doesn't need charging as much................:)

[Fatso]

These jacks have record of failure around the world in L322/D3/D4 and RRS models. I guess it will take a death before the authorities will force Landrover to do a safety recall on these things.

If I do have to use these jacks, even when changing a wheel, I also have additional safety supports of some kind in case the worst happens.

Garry


I have also read a lot of reports of these jacks failing but I suppose the question is , has yours failed on you . I have used mine quit a few times to change wheels over and have not incurred any problems , but I also take precautions as you do . Its a bit like the tow bar failure reports , if the things are put in properly and maintained I can not see how they just fall out , I read and take not of these reports but also are aware of the failures that people make themselves and then blame the tools .

[Celtoid]

These jacks have record of failure around the world in L322/D3/D4 and RRS models. I guess it will take a death before the authorities will force Landrover to do a safety recall on these things.

If I do have to use these jacks, even when changing a wheel, I also have additional safety supports of some kind in case the worst happens.

Garry

Hi Garry,


No Challenge, it's in everyone's interest/safety, etc .... what do you think needs to change?


The nature of the move (when jacking the car) is a massive contributing factor I think. As in the height and the fact that the car moves through a reverse arc as it lifts ... pretty hard for a stationary platform to follow safely.


I think the jack could be stronger, as in a heavier construction but that doesn't fix stability issues on uneven surfaces. People on the forum use bottle jacks which are probably less prone to mechanical failures but suffer the same if not worse stability issues. And if your car came off a bottle jack, there is no frame or structure like the scissor jack to even slow down the car's fall.


At home I use a trolley jack ... strong but not overly stable ... freakin usless off-road, not practical to carry.


Like you mate, always a jack stand or a mate you don't really like under the car while jacking. ;-)


If you could lock the car at access height or lower (a dedicated jacking height selection), as in, have a system that stops the suspension from raising, it may solve a lot of issues. I believe it isn't possible with the way the current suspension is set up.


Cheers,


Kev.

[Fatso]

Not sure if it would work or not . Is it possible when needing to change a wheel in crap conditions to support the vehicle in the effected wheel area somehow and dig a hole under the flat tyre and change out the wheel without having to lift vehicle ?? , bit like when you to dig out a wheel when bogged .

[Redback]

We carry blocks of hardwoodin varied shapes and sand ladders/recovery tracks(the waffle board type) these are used to level, we also carry two jacks, 3 if you count the Hi-lift on the camper, 5 if you count the two in the Amarok;)

Once the wheel is off, it goes under the car just in case.

Baz.

[Graeme]

My rules... never ever get into a pinch or squash position when using a jack of any description and always remove the 20A suspension system fuse before starting. At home I use a trolly jack under the wishbones or shock depending on whether its a rear or a front wheel to be changed and perhaps fortunately have not yet had a flat tyre on the D4.