Haflinger Ignition

[101RRS]

When I bought my Haflinger it had a 123 Electronic Fiat 500 ignition that was modified for the engine - which is a 2 cylinder 4 stroke.

Now this comprised the bottom of the original distributor (mechanical advance removed) which acts solely as a crankshaft sensor for the computer which has 16 selectable advance curves for the ignition - a few supposedly close to the Haflinger original ignition curve. The coil is a wasted spark coil pack so both spark plugs fire.

Due to tuning issues caused by a possibly corrupted ignition computer, ignition was extremely advanced across the board and there did not seem to be a way to fix it so the easiest solution was to pull it out and I went back to a new old stock dissy (mechanical advance - there is no vacuum advance on a Haffie) and points and a standard Bosch GT coil. Ignition problems have gone away and later I will loose the points and put in a Petronix electronic ignition and put on a an electronic governor as my engine does not have its mechanical governor.

That is the background now to my question.

I got thinking :( - as I have a brand new wasted spark coil pack I was thinking that maybe I could also away with the rotor, high tension and dissy spark leads, leaving the dissy cap as a means of keeping the dirt out of the dissy - basically just a lid.

So what I am thinking is to replace the standard bosch coil with the wasted spark coil so the ignition pulse from the pertronix will go direct to the coil pack (as it does with a standard coil) which then fires both spark plugs instead of sending a HT pulse back to the dissy and then from there to the spark plugs.

What do you think - I think it makes the system just that bit simpler with less to go wrong. I will carry the points, condensor, rotor, leads and bosch coil in my spares so I have a backup if anything failed.

Have I missed something?

Thanks

Garry

[bee utey]

Your biggest problem will be the primary side resistance of the wasted spark coil. Compare it with the points coil and then the specs for a pertronix ignitor system. From memory they don't like low resistance coils.

[101RRS]

Thanks - is it a simple matter of putting a ohm meter across the low tension circuit of both coils and comparing them with the Petronix specs?

[101RRS]

While tuning up the haflinger I thought I would see how well the standard dizzy would work with the coil pack - no dissy cap or rotor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dZghmByvHU&feature=em-upload_owner

Guess I need a new condenser.

Garry

[bee utey]

If you're enamoured of the coil pack idea, this is how I'd proceed: find a 4 cylinder distributor with a magnetic pickup that would physically fit inside your Haffy distributor. Grind two opposite teeth off the inner rotor so that only two remain. Fit the 2 toothed rotor to the Haffy distributor, you may have to machine off the points cam to do this. I've successfully done this many times by grinding away the hardened surface of a points cam and machining the rest down to the internal diameter of the rotor. Maybe you could even get the points cam machine ground to make two points precisely opposite each other. Then fit the pickup to the points plate and wire it to a BIM024 module and the coil pack. Adjust timing and drive. Your dissy cap only keeps the dirt out of the pickup. Water will have little effect on it.

[101RRS]

More curious than enamoured as I had it all pulled apart to trace some issues I was having.

I am getting a Pertronix module to go in so the points and condensor will go and will run it on the standard Bosch GT 40 coil - I will put the old coil pack. points and condensor in the spare parts box.

Garry