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View Full Version : Series 1 Flatpack Chassis........



jerryd
9th August 2014, 05:47 PM
Stumbled across this on ebay, it could be a cheaper way to ship a chassis overseas. I thought it might be of interest to somebody.

land rover series 1 Flat Pack Chassis | eBay

chazza
9th August 2014, 06:56 PM
Good to see some enterprising soul out there has made his own!

$1600 plus shipping to here makes it a bit steep though; if the recipient can weld, which presumably is why they would buy it, then they can probably make a flat pack themselves.

I guesstimate about $300 for materials, including consumables, would see the same thing made here,

Cheers Charlie

Sideroad
12th August 2014, 07:48 AM
Just need to get the dxf files and have them laser cut. Could offer to buy the rights to the dxf files. Looks like many nights of welding though, want to be good welds too.

isuzurover
12th August 2014, 08:09 AM
When 3d printers get better you could just print an entire s1...

Lotz-A-Landies
12th August 2014, 09:20 AM
Then you have to put everything together so its square in alignment with no twists or warps to a standard that will meet the approval of the engineer who inspects it.

isuzurover
12th August 2014, 09:46 AM
Then you have to put everything together so its square in alignment with no twists or warps....

Why - Land Rover didn't :D They just hoped it warped back to roughly square when they welded the other side... ;) :D

Than just buy some number stamps... :wasntme:

OT - what is it with the horrible ebay embedding these days. I can't find anything to click on that takes me to the actual ad???

Lotz-A-Landies
12th August 2014, 11:09 AM
Why - Land Rover didn't :D They just hoped it warped back to roughly square when they welded the other side... ;) :D

Than just buy some number stamps... :wasntme:

OT - what is it with the horrible ebay embedding these days. I can't find anything to click on that takes me to the actual ad???Although they did weld it together in a jig. Building yourself a jig first would be more of a nightmare than just welding the bits together.

JDNSW
12th August 2014, 06:42 PM
Although they did weld it together in a jig. Building yourself a jig first would be more of a nightmare than just welding the bits together.

According to various accounts of the first Landrovers, one of the key steps in designing the chassis construction method was to work out an exact sequence of welding that would ensure it did not warp. This is where the home builder is likely to come unstuck!

John

Lotz-A-Landies
12th August 2014, 08:06 PM
Exactly, the novice welder would be likely to start at one end do a continuous weld to the other only to find they now have a banana shaped chassis.

You only have to watch a professional fabrication welder for a short period to realise that welding is a definite skill much more than simply making a good arc.

isuzurover
12th August 2014, 08:36 PM
From the ad:

If you are interested in a full chassis in 'flat pack' form you will be supplied with detailed instructions on how to construct your chassis and what to look for etc, I've years of experience and know all about heat transfer on steel and warping and was very careful throughout construction not to end up with it been like a banana chassis!!! haha

Realistically, using a MIG or TIG to weld the chassis up would produce a lot less warping than the stick welder LR would have used.

Lotz-A-Landies
12th August 2014, 08:57 PM
From the ad:


Realistically, using a MIG or TIG to weld the chassis up would produce a lot less warping than the stick welder LR would have used.But it would still warp.

It is why in the old days they used a string line and these days a laser to guide the welder where to weld next to correct the warping.

BTW: production gas metal arc welders were available before WWII. My welder mate, did his apprenticeship in the UK in the early 1950s and learned on a MIG at that time (as well as stick and gas).

chazza
13th August 2014, 08:37 AM
From the ad:


Realistically, using a MIG or TIG to weld the chassis up would produce a lot less warping than the stick welder LR would have used.

A debatable point!

I can't see how, when using 1.6mm electrodes with the MMAW, that the TIG with its very slow rate of travel, would produce a smaller heat-affected-zone.

A faster rate of travel with the MIG (GMAW) would be advantageous; however; corner joints especially, demand a fast rate of travel, whether by MIG or MMAW.

I have all three types of welder and given the choice I think I would pick the MMAW first, with the MIG a close second. The MIG definitely first, if there were a few gaps to fill,

Cheers Charlie