got to learn how to fix my defender myself!

[djambalawa]

Hi folks I noticed this oil leaking the other day. Last night I took the wheel off and noticed that the 5 small bolts around the big nut were quite lose (could turn them by hand!) so I've nipped them up and the leak seams to have stopped.

I cleaned the area and wheel and it doesn't seem to be leaking now - although I will check the diff oil level tonight and top up - from my research here Castrol Syntrax 75w-90 should be good?

I have done engine oil and filter changes before but never checked or replaced oil in diffs, gearbox etc (had this car 6 months and all this was done just before I bought it)

Anyways a few questions if anyone could help please

1. I think its a non original setup with the axles/flanges - maxidrive? If i need new seals/bearings etc how can i find out what to get or do you still use the LR ones? Is there a diagram somewhere online (i havent been able to find one) that shows how all this goes together?

2. If it does keep leaking a friend said to take it apart and clean it, and then put some gasket sealant on the gasket and put it back together. But check bearing etc too. Any other suggestions?

3. When putting that ginormous nut back on I couldn't get the little o ring seal to sit properly and no matter what i did a bit of it is squished out the side... not good I guess.. any idea what i was doing wrong and where i could get another o-ring? Was I doing it up too tight?

4. Checking/refilling diffs - from what i can tell i just fill it to be level with the filler hole? I think I've read that I should put some sealant on the filler plug when I do it up?

Thanks in advance!

Photo attached. Vehicle is an '03 TD5 130 with rover diffs I believe.

[Rurover]

Yep, recommend you do get more familiar with your Defender, and tackle at least the basic stuff yourself.

The best place to start is to click on this link and buy the electronic workshop manual. https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium/index.php?_a=product&product_id=10

Re your oil leak problem. I think you'll find your rear diff is not a Rover diff, but a heavy duty Salisbury unit. They're pretty bomb proof, but as with all Defenders it seems, with age and use comes some slop in the transmission, which tends to result in a "clunk" as you let the clutch out at each gear change.

There are a number of areas where this slop can occur, but the most common is where the axles slot into the drive flanges. It seems that a previous owner may have (wisely) replace the Land Rover flanges with Maxidrive or equivalent to reduce this transmission slop issue. Hopefully you don't get too much clunk when changing gear as a result!

Re the problems you're having with that O-Ring. Not sure why it's not seating properly, but may pay to get a slightly smaller one and have another go.
Others on this forum may have more experience in this area than I do.
When re-tightening those loose studs, did you apply thread locker to the threads? I'd suggest it would be a good idea to do so. Would also pay to check the studs on the opposite wheel, just in case they're also coming loose.

Re topping up the diff. Yes, just make sure you're parked on a level surface and fill to the point of overflowing from the filler plug. You should not need to use thread sealer here as in my experience, these plugs are tapered and if tightened properly, will not leak. Also a minor possible danger of contaminating the oil with thread sealer. (May or may not be an issue).

Once you've done that little job, then you're OK to tackle changing oil in the front diff and the gearbox and transfer case. You'll probably need a half inch socket extension with a sort of rounded end on it (Makes it able to work at a slight angle...available at any decent tool shop) to get to the Trans Case level plug and from memory you'll also need a splined socket as in the picture to get to the hard to reach level plug on the gearbox.

Will also need to get a small oil pump to pump the oil into the various boxes and diffs (again, see picture).

Good luck!

Rurover

[landy]

Re check your oil selection. The syntrax is for the GB or TC. can't remember which and is expensive. I use castrol LSD diff oil. Much cheaper and exceeds the spec listed. A Haynes manual will list everything you need to know at your skill level. And give handy tips on what to do.
Cheers.

[nismine01]

A half inch socket extension with a sort of rounded end on it!

Hi guys,
a 1/2" bar as described is sold as a 'wobble bar' by Kingchrome.

I have a set of different lengths and they are invaluable, when linked together they virtually follow in a curve, great for going up over the bell housing when changing a transmission. :angel:

Cheers

Mike

[Blknight.aus]

I reckon I might be encouragable to make myself available if you'd like some pointers

[djambalawa]

I have just ordered the CD thanks Rurover.

I'm pretty sure mine is the normal diffs Rurover - I asked on this forum (tried to find the post with the pic but can't find it now). Apparently and '03 could've been either.

I checked the other wheel and that seemed tight - but yeah thanks I'll get some thread locker on them. Will grab oil pump etc as advised thanks!

Landy - I got the diff oil suggestion from http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/110486-oils-can-we-set-up-definitive-list-3.html#post1308575 - am I reading it right?

Thanks for the suggestion re wobble bars Nismine.

Are you in Darwin Dave? :)

[landy]

Taken from the Castrol Website.



LAND ROVER
Defender/ Td5 Series, 2.5 Litre 5-Cyl. Turbo Diesel, Man, 4x4 (1999-2007)

Crankcase
CASTROL EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4
Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4 is a fully synthetic, SAE 5W-30, engine oil. It gives you the confidence to demand maximum engine performance from today's highly tuned four cylinder and latest technology engines, operating with tighter tolerances, requiring lower viscosity and stronger oils for variable service intervals. Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4 is proven in tests to deliver outstanding oil strength.

or CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4
Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 is a fully synthetic, SAE 0W-40, engine oil formulated for prestige and high performance engines. Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 provides outstanding wear protection in performance engines designed to run at their optimum level on lower viscosity oils. Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 should be used in engines where maximum efficiency and protection is demanded This product is not suitable for vehicles fitted with Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF).

Service Refill Capacity: 8.2* Litres.
Manual Transmission
CASTROL SYNTRANS 75W-85
Fully synthetic manual transmission fluid for applications where superior synchroniser performance is required. Also recommended for passenger cars and light commercial vehicle transmissions, transaxles and transfer cases where API GL-3 or GL-4 SAE 75W-85 or SAE 80W is required.

Service Refill Capacity: 2.4 Litres. See note 682 below.
Differential
CASTROL AXLE EPX 80W-90
Extreme pressure, multi-purpose gear oil designed for the protection of heavily loaded steel gears. It is recommended for use in differentials, gear boxes and steering gears of passenger cars, light trucks, farm tractors and earthmoving equipment

Service Refill Capacity: 2.3 Litres.
Power Steering
See note 186 below.
4WD Transfer
CASTROL SYNTRAX UNIVERSAL PLUS 75W-90
Fully synthetic automotive gear oil, recommended for vehicles with manual transaxles that combine gearbox and hypoid differentials; eg. Toyota Celica 4WD, Subaru, Porsche and Alfa Romeo. Recommended for use in manual transmission where 75W-90 GL-4 or 5 lubricants are recommended. Suitable for rear exles of light cars and secondary drive axles of 4WD vehicles for reduced viscous drag and enhanced fuel efficiency, especially for around town service.

Service Refill Capacity: 2.3 Litres. See note 185 below.
4WD Differential
See note 885 below.
Brake
CASTROL REACT PERFORMANCE DOT 4
Is suitable for use in all brake fluid systems in cars, and light commercial vehicles requiring either a DOT 3, DOT 4 or Super DOT 4 product (Not suitable for use where a mineral oil based fluid is specified).

or CASTROL BRAKE FLUID DOT 4
Suitable for use in all brake fluid systems in cars, motorcycles and light commercial vehicles requiring either a DOT 3 or DOT 4 product (Not suitable for use where a mineral oil based fluid is specified).

Radiator
CASTROL RADICOOL SF-O
A concentrate long-life engine coolant based on organic acid technology (OAT). Castrol Antifreeze SF-O is recommended where the requirements of the following OEMs are called for or cited: Audi / VW TL 774 D, Ford WSS-M97B44-D, GM / Opel GM6277M, MAN Type 324 SNF, Deutz, MWM Saab, Scania, Toyota TSK 260IG, Renault Type R

or CASTROL ANTIFREEZE SF-O
A concentrate long-life engine coolant based on organic acid technology (OAT). Castrol Antifreeze SF-O is recommended where the requirements of the following OEMs are called for or cited: Audi / VW TL 774 D, Ford WSS-M97B44-D, GM / Opel GM6277M, MAN Type 324 SNF, Deutz, MWM Saab, Scania, Toyota TSK 260IG, Renault Type R

Service Refill Capacity: 13.0 Litres. See note 921 below.
NOTES
*
Includes Oil Filter.
185
Semi-synthetic oil recommended, which must also meet GL5.
186
System may originally be filled with Land Rover PAS 14315 or ATF. Do NOT mix oil types. Use Land Rover PAS 14315 or CASTROL POWER STEERING FLUID for refill after overhaul.
682
For outside warranty period.
885
If oil filled, use CASTROL AXLE EPX 80W-90, 1.7 litres. If grease filled, use Land Rover Part No. STC 3435. Refer to Dealer.
921
Do NOT mix Castrol coolant with other brands of antifreeze, coolants or corrosion inhibitors because of possible incompatibility of inhibitors. Follow manufacturer's recommendations for coolant concentration.


Cheers

Nino.

[AndyG]

In a previous life , with a Mini Moke, ;), the club had an annual workshop day, the intent was to transfer skills, by doing some common, popular tasks on member vehicles, plus the BBQ and beer of course.:p

Just throwing it out there.

[Blknight.aus]

I have just ordered the CD thanks Rurover.

I'm pretty sure mine is the normal diffs Rurover - I asked on this forum (tried to find the post with the pic but can't find it now). Apparently and '03 could've been either.

I checked the other wheel and that seemed tight - but yeah thanks I'll get some thread locker on them. Will grab oil pump etc as advised thanks!

Landy - I got the diff oil suggestion from http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/110486-oils-can-we-set-up-definitive-list-3.html#post1308575 - am I reading it right?

Thanks for the suggestion re wobble bars Nismine.

Are you in Darwin Dave? :)


Just for a little.while.but I'm.in.tindal.next year

[djambalawa]

Just for a little.while.but I'm.in.tindal.next year

Well it seems to have stopped leaking now which is good - and the oil level in the diff was virtually full anyway so it mustn't have lost as much as it looked...

The only thing wrong might be that the little o-ring has "squished" out the side of the big centre nut on the wheel flange but it doesn't seem to be leaking or anything...

Be happy to take it to you for you to have a look if you have the time or inclination - but understand if you're busy.

[AndyG]

Post a picture of your beer fridge, and stand back:angel: