Heat stuck on!

[Fractured Foot]

Good afternoon all!

Somehow the air temp is stuck on very hot even with the dial set to full cold.

As the car is new I suspect a connection behind the dial has simply come loose. Is it as simple as unscrewing the 2 screws on the faced and having a look behind?

James

[Fractured Foot]

And I should add that pressing the air con button has not effect on the temp.

[rar110]

I'm not sure what model you have. You can confirm a cable problem by moving the lever and seeing if no action on the top of the heater box.

On my 110 a small screw & bracket, that holds the cable tube, had become loose at the lever end. So when the lever was adjusted the tube moved and not the cable inside. The problem was fixed by removing the lever panel (to the right of the instrument panel). Then refix the cable to that panel.

[Fractured Foot]

Many thanks rar110 for your reply!

I have a MY13 90. I shall have a look at the heater box and will report back forthwith :)

The reason for me initially thinking that the problem is at the switch end is that I dropped the car off at the dealers to have the air vents fixed (face vents didn't work). When I picked it up it was parked in the sun so figured that was the reason why it was hot. A few minutes into the drive home the cab was roasting hot so turned off the fan altogether and opened the windows for ventilation. All the vents worked though!

Other than removing the 2 screws on the facade, is there anything else I need to do to remove the facade?

[BilboBoggles]

I'd bet it's the cable clamps at the end of the heater control cable on top of the heater box... They are a simple affair and I've had one pop off before now.

[rar110]

I'd bet it's the cable clamps at the end of the heater control cable on top of the heater box... They are a simple affair and I've had one pop off before now.

That is the other possibility. You need to operate the lever to see what happens at the heater box (I assume the 2013 defender has one). If the cable moves but arms on the heater box don't then cable ok and cable disconnected from box actuator.

Re your question there are two screws on the panel facing toward the rear of the vehicle. They simply hold the lever mechanism to the panel and don't need to be touched. You need to remove the screws that hold the panel in place. Once removed the panel will sit at 45+ degrees and you can work on the brackets inside the panel. It doesn't take very long to fix if it was like mine.

[Fractured Foot]

Good morning all,

I have had a good look at google images and downloaded a bunch of free workshop manuals and the heat box pictured (in the wsm (likely relevant to older models) and google images) doesn't resemble what is in under the MY13 bonnet.

With the bonnet raised, in the far top right hand corner appears to be a fan housing (rounded shape rather than heat box shape) with wiring but the control cable visible was the one which controls whether the air comes from outside the cab, or recycled inside. I had a look from underneath to see if I could locate the track of the heating control wire coming from the switch in the cab into the engine bay but alas couldn't find it.

Many thanks for all the help thus far - loving this site and hope one day I'll know enough to help others! :)

[BilboBoggles]

Unfortunately I brought my mobile phone home in a doggy bag the other day so I can't take a photo to show you. But the heat control is on top towards the front of the heater/fan box. It's a white valve with a cable attached to the side, you cna see the pink coolant in the white pipes. The cable end is retained with a very simpe push fitting. On my original defender it popped off a couple of times until I bent it tighter with some pliers.

[Fractured Foot]

Hi Bilbo

I've located a wsm for 2007 onwards (1200+ pages and on USB for anyone in the ACT) and believe I have located the white valve you refer to. I'll tighten it and report back. Thanks again!!

[BilboBoggles]

It's not so much tightening it as repositioning the cable outer sheath so that the valve has full travel and then tightening it - get someone to turn the heat knob whilst you watch it an you'll see how it works.