D4 Mudflaps

[LandyAndy]

Hi
My D4 is sans mudflaps.
I dont like the look of the factory ones,but they are required judging by the tyre shine treatment sprayed off the tyres and up the body.
Has anybody made their own traditional rubber flaps???
Is there pre tapped screw holes on the vehicle,if so any idea of the screw size???
Cheers
Andrew

[Epic pooh]

Is it tyre shine or brake dust ?

I think some folk have made their own and will be along with sensible comments. There are screw holes (D3 anyway) not sure of size.

I've destroyed a coupe of factory front flaps over the years, but my back ones (extra large early D3 ones) have hung together well.

But nothing stops the brake dust from filthifying my white paint :(

[scomac]

Hi Andy, this might help.
Cheers
Scott.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/142633-front-mudflaps-rock-sliders.html

[LandyAndy]

Is it tyre shine or brake dust ?

I think some folk have made their own and will be along with sensible comments. There are screw holes (D3 anyway) not sure of size.

I've destroyed a coupe of factory front flaps over the years, but my back ones (extra large early D3 ones) have hung together well.

But nothing stops the brake dust from filthifying my white paint :(

No its tyre shine,unless these things have liquid brake dust;);););)
Im not a brakes man,more like an olde farte when driving;);););););)
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Hi Andy, this might help.
Cheers
Scott.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/142633-front-mudflaps-rock-sliders.html

Scott.
Unsure wether its my puter,but the link takes me to the AULRO main page.
I will try again.
Andrew

[Epic pooh]

This may be hard to believe, but I'm only on my second set of pads and rotors all round ! The dust from the oem pads drives me nucking futs, think I'll try some of those funky no dust ones that people have mentioned when they need doing next ... which is likely to be in about two years at this rate of use.

[LandyAndy]

Wierd stuff.
Tried again,it showed page 1,then said page 2 was malicious and shut it down.Will try again later incase this computer is having a hissy fit;););););)
Cheers
Andrew

[Mick_Marsh]

Hi Andy, this might help.
Cheers
Scott.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/142633-front-mudflaps-rock-sliders.html
Something wrong with the link.
Try this one:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/142633-front-mudflaps-rock-sliders.html

[LandyAndy]

Onya MarshyMick,link worked a treat.
LandyAndy ****flaps,my first DIY modification:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

[Meken]

I assume that's why you got it for such a good price - no flaps :)

[LandyAndy]

The trick is dont buy ANY dealer fit options,they sting you,plus it goes into the sub total price of the vehicle,then the government stings you withy luxury car tax ontop.
Plus I dont like the look of the plastic flaps,too easy to destroy,and from looking at BMKals D4 they dont do the job!!!.
Andrew

[aus86inch]

i am with you Andy
first DIY job on D4 Mudflaps
thanks for the previous posts with pictures:)

do Brads Sliders fit to the chassis? have seen some that attach to sills:confused: not real good IMO

[TerryO]

Brads sliders are really good gear and mine on the D3 have been fairly smashed and while dented they are still straight and protecting doors and sills. I reckon they are that good I'm about to buy a second set for the D4.

[LandyAndy]

For the rears I rekon a Defender mudflap will go close to being perfect.Will take a template off our Deefer,if they can fit I will buy a set,just for the Land Rover logo;););););).
Andrew

[Redback]

For the rears I rekon a Defender mudflap will go close to being perfect.Will take a template off our Deefer,if they can fit I will buy a set,just for the Land Rover logo;););););).
Andrew

Let us know how this goes Andy, I'll be interested in using the Defender flaps if they can be retro fitted.

Baz.

[Jimlr]

Series flaps on a disco:

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post212768.html#212768

[LandyAndy]

Series flaps on a disco:

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Replacing mudflaps ?? (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post212768.html#212768)

Thanks for that,looks to be a pretty easy job.
Andrew

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I think thats a great idea! :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/392.jpg

[LandyAndy]

Shame the Defender flaps are so expensive!!!!!,I guess they are cheap compared to the cost of the vehicle.
Just ordered marine nuts/bolts/washers and some Xmas trees,couldnt get the xmas trees locally:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
Andrew

[Epic]

What are peoples thoughts on using only the existing screws that hold on the inner wheel guard? I'm reluctant to start drilling any holes.

[LandyAndy]

What are peoples thoughts on using only the existing screws that hold on the inner wheel guard? I'm reluctant to start drilling any holes.

I have only had a quick look and it was near dark.There only seemed to be a few very small(6mm head) hex screws there,not strong enough to hold a rubber flap.On the rear there is at least 1 8mm size hole wich would be more like the size needed,unfortunately I only saw 1,not enough.

Once I recieve the fixings I will post pics here.
Andrew

[JamesH]

I used available screw holes on mine when I installed some cheapo rubber flaps on the font wheels. A mate who put them on for me made up some brackets so they would cover the whole tyre; if you use existing holes on the flaps and the mudguard they sit too far inboard.

You definitely need something. The front wheel sprays everything from the rood up the side of the car.

[PaulGOz]

I have some solid plastic flaps made up for the rear and hold them on via 3 6mm bolts through holes in inner linner and into lower edge of rear bumper I had to drill a few holes in these areas through plastic has worked for almost 3 years now and many kms at speed on sand and rough tracks I occasionally scrape them but never come off. The std front flap I managed to rip out one mounting screw reversing in chopped up sand recently maybe some 6mm bolts would be a better solution on the front as well.

[LandyAndy]

I got the rear mudflaps sorted today.They look a bit out of place but Im sure I will come to be at peace with them.
I used 8mm rubber,yet to do the fronts,thats tommorows project.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/54.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/001_zpsf25d6cf9.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/55.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/002_zpsf7b21615.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/56.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/003_zpsb3c4a3db.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/57.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/004_zps1196689b.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/58.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/005_zpsd4737be1.jpg.html)

Andrew

[Epic pooh]

Nice flaps Andy !

[LandyAndy]

Fronts now done.
If anybody is making their own,I used 6mm rubber on the front,it was much easier to work with,Yet to find if its too flexible.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/17.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/002_zpsa7ce3160.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/18.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/001_zps01f303f4.jpg.html)

Andrew

[cjc_td5]

I think thats a great idea! :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/392.jpg

From what I can tell, it appears these flaps can be made from Defender 90 pre-TD5 rear mud flaps. Does anyone know an Australian supplier of these? I can get them from the UK but would prefer to support an Australian supplier if reasonably priced.

Thanks,

[Dfourfun]

x2 for me as well. The OEM ones are hopeless and my attempts at Clark Rubber versions have not been very successful. And I have to admit I do like having the LR logo on them. Just as question of what part number to order and from who...?

[PaulGOz]

Landyandy nice work they are very similar to how I made mine up. I used solid plastic its the same stuff they use on rally cars, you can hit it with a 4 inch nail held in yiur hand as hsrd as you can and it barely leaves a mark very tough stuff. I would be more comfortable with a little more clearance around the exhaust they move a little and can get hot The parts close to the exhaust dont really do anything anyway.

[Mungus]

I've been looking too! Haven't asked the local dealer how much yet. Still need to make sure I get the front ones correct and work out which one of the two rear ones I have found below. I think they're the first ones?


BTR277 | Rear Mudflap (rubber only) 110 - Genuine LR with LR logo (http://www.paddockspares.com/btr277-rear-mudflap-rubber-only-110-genuine-lr-with-lr-logo.html)
BTR277 - Rear Mudflap (rubber only) 110 - Genuine LR with LR logo

or


LAND ROVER DEFENDER 1987-2006 REAR MUD FLAPS (2)GENUINE | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-1987-2006-REAR-MUD-FLAPS-2-GENUINE-/270464990260?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ef8f83c34)

LAND ROVER DEFENDER (1987 - 2006)
Land Rover Part Numbers : CAT500410PMA and CAT500540PMA

[Mungus]

I think these are the front ones used.
RTC6820 | Front Mudflap Kit (pair) - Genuine (http://www.paddockspares.com/rtc6820-front-mudflap-kit-pair-genuine.html)
RTC6820 - Front Mudflap Kit (pair) - Genuine

[cjc_td5]

I've been looking too! Haven't asked the local dealer how much yet. Still need to make sure I get the front ones correct and work out which one of the two rear ones I have found below. I think they're the first ones?


BTR277 | Rear Mudflap (rubber only) 110 - Genuine LR with LR logo (http://www.paddockspares.com/btr277-rear-mudflap-rubber-only-110-genuine-lr-with-lr-logo.html)
BTR277 - Rear Mudflap (rubber only) 110 - Genuine LR with LR logo

or


LAND ROVER DEFENDER 1987-2006 REAR MUD FLAPS (2)GENUINE | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-1987-2006-REAR-MUD-FLAPS-2-GENUINE-/270464990260?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ef8f83c34)

LAND ROVER DEFENDER (1987 - 2006)
Land Rover Part Numbers : CAT500410PMA and CAT500540PMA

Hi Mungus.
I'm fairly sure you need the mud flaps from your second link. The 110 mud flaps in the first link step in above the logo, which the pic of them installed on the D4 does not show.

Cheapest I have found them is on the Rimmers site...

Rear Mudflap - 90 - RH - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LR055332)

and

Rear Mudflap - 90 - LH - Original - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-CAT500450PMA)

They are pricey but not that much dearer than having to purchase insertion rubber from Clark Rubber and making my own.

Cheers,

[Mungus]

True! They are more like the second ones.

[cjc_td5]

My D4 now has a Defender influence!!! :D:D

Pre-TD5 Defender 90 rear mudflaps were fitted over the weekend.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=87126&stc=1&d=1416140847

It takes a certain amount of fortitude to take to $80 worth of new mudflaps with a coping saw to cut them to the right shape. I also had to make a steel bracket from the bottom of the chassis rail across the the bottom of the rear guard to support the inner side of the mudflap.

I think they look pretty cool and worth the expense. :):)

Now to sort out some front mudflaps.

I can take a few more photos of the bracket and mounting points if there is interest...

Cheers,

[RickO]

yes please!

[Graeme]

It takes a certain amount of fortitude to take to $80 worth of new mudflaps with a coping sawI assume that you haven't cut holes in the guard of a new vehicle to fit a snorkel.

The mudflaps are neat - they put mine to shame.

[Epic pooh]

Those flaps look great. I'm doing that one day when I get motivated !

[xoph44]

Yes please again

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Mungus.
I'm fairly sure you need the mud flaps from your second link. The 110 mud flaps in the first link step in above the logo, which the pic of them installed on the D4 does not show.

Cheapest I have found them is on the Rimmers site...

Rear Mudflap - 90 - RH - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LR055332)

and

Rear Mudflap - 90 - LH - Original - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-CAT500450PMA)

They are pricey but not that much dearer than having to purchase insertion rubber from Clark Rubber and making my own.

Cheers,Isn't that the most awkward site to do a transaction! :mad:

I had to enter my address details twice and my credit card details three times.

Why on earth do they need the model details (the reason for one re-entry of credit card details) if the parts are specific for a Defender 90 (and I'm fitting them to a D4) then the website says the parts are in stock, but when you get to the checkout they tell you the parts are on back-order, you go back to order an in-stock alternative and have to re-enter the details again only to find out the alternative is also on back order and the CC will be charged when stock arrives. :mad: :mad: :mad:

What would happen if I didn't have funds when they want to charge the card. I have 2 Regos coming up this month.

Not happy Jan.

[cjc_td5]

As requested, a couple of photos of my install job.

The mudflap has to be cut to shape around the exhaust pipe. The cut shape depends on what height you want flap hanging down below the rear panel. I made a cardboard template first then cut the flap from that.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=87162&stc=1&d=1416224018

I used four bolts with mudguard washers plus one screw to mount the mudflaps. Two bolts at the top and two at the bottom bracket.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=87161&stc=1&d=1416224018

The bracket I made to secure the inner part of the flap. Just a piece of 30x30 angle and 25x3 flat bar welded together. Yes I stuffed up and had to redrill one hole to get the flap to sit horizontal.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=87160&stc=1&d=1416224018

Cheers, have fun :D

[Lotz-A-Landies]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Is that going to cause problems with body off maintenance procedures?

[LandyAndy]

Is that going to cause problems with body off maintenance procedures?


Should remain secure in the event of a roll over;););););)
See you wednesday Chris!!!!
Andrew

[cjc_td5]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/87160d1416224018-d4-mudflaps-imag0837-m.jpg

Is that going to cause problems with body off maintenance procedures?

Ah yes, possibly :angel::angel:
I will be positive and say it will never need its body off...:angel:
They are just two bolts and two screws to remove though.

I also am wary of any body/chassis flex issues. That is why I used a light gauge steel and it is fixed to the plastic inner guard so should damp out any vibration issues (hopefully)....

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ah yes, possibly :angel::angel:
I will be positive and say it will never need its body off...:angel:
They are just two bolts and two screws to remove though.

I also am wary of any body/chassis flex issues. That is why I used a light gauge steel and it is fixed to the plastic inner guard so should damp out any vibration issues (hopefully)....I'm no D4 mechanic but I understood that the body off procedure is required for a lot more maintenance activities than we think. Particularly gearbox stuff.

[Tombie]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/392.jpg

Look fantastic - Until you reverse in something soft or sticky...

Then they'll get jammed up or torn off like they do on D90s offroad...

[BMKal]

Look fantastic - Until you reverse in something soft or sticky...

Then they'll get jammed up or torn off like they do on D90s offroad...

But in a D4 you're never likely to have to reverse in something soft or sticky. :o

A D4 will always proceed through such terrain in the forward direction ....... :p

Know what you mean though .................. almost lost count of the number of times I've peeled the mudflaps off my garden trailer when reversing it up over the kerb out front of the house to clear the leaves etc out of the front garden.



Oh ....................... and ................. the mudflaps look great Chris - much better than the standard D4 ones. I know what I'll be doing if I ever lose mine now that I've seen what you've done.

[Tombie]

You aren't trying hard enough!

[Tylenol]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, and also perhaps ask a controversial question, but here goes.

Just purchased a LR Disco 4 MY14 TDV.

Does it really need mudflaps? LR are asking for $800 installed... personally I think i'd rather buy some camping equipment. Will I hate myself for not buying them?

I really don't care for aesthetics.

Cheers,
Ty

[cjc_td5]

The D4 tyres throw a lot of muck up the sides of the vehicle. Do you have side steps? If so the front tyres do a great job of throwing mud on top of them just outside the front doors.

I couldn't justify the OEM mudflaps, so made my own versions as per above posts.

[LandyAndy]

If you buy the factory ones you will still get stone chips.Hence us making our own/fitting Defender flaps;););););)
EASY DIY job;);););)
Andrew

[Roger]

Now I would not consider my self a Disco guru, but I have had factory OEM flaps on all of my discos (3) and they all worked fine, I did do some super muddy work and they were more than fine and did not get ripped off when I reversed in heavy mud, but I mostly got them to stop stone chips as I drive on unsealed roads every day in country Vic.and it seems to work fine.

[jon3950]

Does it really need mudflaps? LR are asking for $800 installed... personally I think i'd rather buy some camping equipment. Will I hate myself for not buying them?


Firstly, welcome to the forum.

The oem flaps aren't much good, but if you are going to take it off the bitumen you'll want something.

At the very least don't get them installed - they are very easy to fit yourself. Also they are usually cheaper from the UK, from someone like Duckworths.


I mostly got them to stop stone chips as I drive on unsealed roads every day in country Vic.and it seems to work fine.

So did I. On the harsher outback roads they are pretty much useless though. You should see my rear wheel arches. The front flaps just don't cover the back of the tyre properly. I miss the unpainted arches on the D3.

Cheers,
Jon

[Boggs]

I looked at the OEM flaps and thought they were rubbish. My main concern was how hard the plastic was.
I ended up sourcing some on ebay from HK. Cost about $50 landed. You have to cut off some of the excess moulding for a tight fit but otherwise no big deal. They are also made of as more pliant material and seem less likely to crack or be shattered by stones.
I note comments about not being big enough so I may rivet some more plastic to the bottoms/sides if necessary.

[RHS58]

I got the Chinese knock-off versions off eBay.
Look the same as LR's, only difference is that they're branded "LAND ROVEF".
About 80 bucks for the set.
Installed in 30 minutes.
Couldn't justify the stealership prices.
Agree that original or knockoff don't offer lots of protection.
In the process of fashioning a set similar to LandyAndy's. Again, purchased knockoff Defender style flaps from eBay to start the project.

[Muskie]

same here !!;)

[Epic pooh]

My OEM flaps have lasted 9 years (rear) and 4 years (front) - the rears are the big wide type which are really good and don't seem susceptible to much damage in my use, the fronts have copped it a few times on rocks and the current ones are both cracked from being whacked on things. They seem to catch a lot of rocks and mud, but it's hard to tell as my olde D3 doesn't have paint all over the sacrificial plastic parts ... :wasntme:

[cjc_td5]

Just to round out my D4 mudflap install project, I installed some front mudflaps a few days ago. They are D1 front mudflaps, just a generic plain brand.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=91031&stc=1&d=1424609603

They are fixed using two existing screws plus a bolt and another screw for good measure.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=91032&stc=1&d=1424609603

Overall I'm happy with how the front and rear mudflaps have worked out, now for the next project....:D:D

Cheers,

[Redback]

On the weekend I did my own mudflaps, purchased 1sq metre of 5mm rubber and cut out my own, front and rear, now I have a Kaymar bar and Kaymar assume that all D3s and D4s come with mudflaps so there is a 100mm gap from the bar the the wheel arch, they do make a bracket to fill this gap, but at $450, I decided to make my own from 3mm alloy checker plate, just bent it to the same shape as the rear bar and bingo, no more gap, at a total cost of $0.00, rubber was $54 for a SQ metre.

I haven't quite finished them, just need to add one more attachment point on the rear flap at the bottom and they are done.

Front
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1611_zpsztte4de5.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bazzar/media/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1611_zpsztte4de5.jpg.html)

Rear, with fill in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bazzar/media/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1610_zpsrdnab1q4.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bazzar/media/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1609_zps4xjf8wxc.jpg.html)

Baz.

[Tombie]

Looks good...

I did the same on Lara using 5mm urethane sheet.
Much harder wearing..

[Mungus]

Fitted mine today! Similar to Chris_CJC TD5. If you have rear a/c then be wary of the drivers front where the two spit cleared lines are shown in the pic below. The a/c pipes are right behind this spot. My back ones need to be out and up 10mm, but I'll wait for these to get ripped off first. I'll change the bolts and screws to something better once they have a test run. Hopefully with no rear washers they will pull through the plastic panels rather than split/crack or rip them off.

[LandyAndy]

Sliders look good,whos are they???
Andrew

[Mungus]

In the signature Andy... Prospeed.

[Tombie]

Use Polyurethane sheet... It wont crack over time...

Blknight should be able to confirm, but Lara was/is running them since near new.. Doesn't tear or crack..

The other advantage, slightly more rigid and wont flick forward into the tyre and get damaged...

[LRD414]

Use Polyurethane sheet...


Tombie, is poly sheet available anywhere other than plastic specialists?

Scott

[LandyAndy]

Clarke Rubber may be able to help.Mostly deal with rubber but do have other products.
Andrew

[LRD414]

My effort today. Another version using D1 front flaps thanks to Chris. I'll see how these go and possibly use them as a template for a polyurethane version at some stage.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/597.jpg

The extra width should help protect the rear arches.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/598.jpg


I used the two existing screws and added two extras for good measure.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/599.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/559.jpg
I'd better put a screw in that empty hole. Looks unfinished.

Cheers,
Scott

[Melbourne Park]

Rubber conveyor belt material is much better than polyurethane. Typically they have woven material embedded into the rubber. This is what top caravans are moving towards. Imagine tyre carcass toughness. Apex belting in Melbourne make many such materials, and different organisations sell such materials to industry.

There are several suppliers of such materials. I'll check on the Australian Off Road site - there was a thread on such materials. The owner of AOR was looking to switch to increase the life of his guards.

I do think though that a larger and lower guard hanging off the sill rails (such as the ones made by for instance GOE etc) would better push rocks flat hence protecting the rear tyres ... and because they would be hung further forward, they could not be caught by the wheels.

[BMKal]

I would have to disagree.

I can get my hands on any amount of rubber conveyor belt material, including from Apex Belting if I want to, but would not use this for mud flaps. It is generally too thick and heavy for this purpose. Yes - conveyor belting does have a woven fabric carcass (you can get it with steel cord carcass too) - but this is not needed at all in a light weight duty such as mudflaps.

Offcuts from sheets of rubber lining material, such as black linatex, are much better - used to use this on my Prado on the last minesite I was on, as the OEM Prado mudflaps were too small and pretty useless. Conveyor belting would have just pulled the screws out of the guards (especially the lightweight plastic crap on the Prado). ;)

If you can find the right polyethylene sheeting for the purpose, it is much better than conveyor belting. It is plenty strong enough for the purpose, much lighter than comparable conveyor belting, "stiff" enough to remain in shape without "sagging" straight down, and if you use a high molecular weight poly, mud won't stick to it.

[LRD414]

If you can find the right polyethylene sheeting for the purpose, it is much better than conveyor belting. It is plenty strong enough for the purpose, much lighter than comparable conveyor belting, "stiff" enough to remain in shape without "sagging" straight down, and if you use a high molecular weight poly, mud won't stick to it.

Exactly my thoughts. I design conveyors and we have a lot of success with PE as a chute liner, especially for stickier materials. You need something that is strong for its weight but presents a low friction surface. UHMWPE is probably the ultimate but maybe excessive for this application. Not sure about cost or availability of thinner sheets. Polyurethane is another option mentioned already.

Scott

[Mungus]

My effort today. Another version using D1 front flaps thanks to Chris. I'll see how these go and possibly use them as a template for a polyurethane version at some stage.


The extra width should help protect the rear arches.



I used the two existing screws and added two extras for good measure.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/559.jpg
I'd better put a screw in that empty hole. Looks unfinished.

Cheers,
Scott


Scott, I take it, more so; I hope you don't have rear air? Re: Post 60 1st pic - 2 clean lines.

[LRD414]

Scott, I take it, more so; I hope you don't have rear air? Re: Post 60 1st pic - 2 clean lines.

Thanks Mungus and yes I do have rear a/c but didn't hit the pipes with that screw. I checked mine after noting your post a while back and found that the two a/c pipes actually don't run side-by-side like yours but rather one in front of the other. It's certainly something that needs to be checked before adding screws.

Anyway, that extra screw avoids the pipe's foam cover by a couple of mm. I wanted to get an extra screw inwards as far as practical. I should have mentioned this in my initial post.

Cheers,
Scott

[rooster]

Hi, these are pics of version 1, had to drill 2 holes. I made them long to try and keep the grim off the Disco and will put a eye and chain on them to raise them when off road. Rear have edging, front are naked. Used 3mm insertion rubber

[rooster]

Hi Folks, sorry about the number of attachments, not so good on a computer and this system of attaching pics is new to me

[Melbourne Park]

.
- -

[Melbourne Park]

I would have to disagree.

...

If you can find the right polyethylene sheeting for the purpose, it is much better than conveyor belting. It is plenty strong enough for the purpose, much lighter than comparable conveyor belting, "stiff" enough to remain in shape without "sagging" straight down, and if you use a high molecular weight poly, mud won't stick to it.

You might be right about conveyor materials being too heavy ... however with off road vans, that what people are finding works best.

But when you you talk about molecular weight with polyethylene sheet, I think you don't know what your talking about. With PE materials, I've been involved with such materials for many decades - manufacturing them. Their characteristics would be enhanced by additives, and the base PE type. I should sample one of my guards and work out what plastic it is ... I don't think mine are in the LLDPE or PE family.

Sorry
Doug

[BMKal]

You might be right about conveyor materials being too heavy ... however with off road vans, that what people are finding works best.

But when you you talk about molecular weight with polyethylene sheet, I think you don't know what your talking about. With PE materials, I've been involved with such materials for many decades - manufacturing them. Their characteristics would be enhanced by additives, and the base PE type. I should sample one of my guards and work out what plastic it is ... I don't think mine are in the LLDPE or PE family.

Sorry
Doug

:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:

Yeah right. You go on believing what you like mate. I'll stick with my own experience and that of plenty of others on here thanks. ;)

[Melbourne Park]

Actually, 0.92 is the factor used for weight for LDPE and LLDPE ... so why no quote the factor for HDPE.

[LRD414]

I've now fitted my version of the Defender rear mudflaps with LR logo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/8.jpg

I ordered them from Rimmer Bros UK, part numbers as follows:
LR055332
CAT500450PMA

The two existing screws were used. Note that the lower of these screws was not originally in place but rather was added when I installed the factory plastic mudflaps, which were supplied with a small bracket and screw for that spot. If you haven't had the factory version then you could simply use a bolt in this location (IIRC the hole is there, perhaps with a plug).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/9.jpg

Here's the final result, with two extra bolts and a self-tapper as shown below.
The holes already in the mudflap were not used.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/10.jpg

A cardboard template was required to get the holes in the correct places and the cut-out around the exhaust pipe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/11.jpg

The final template .... with cut-out for exhaust
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/12.jpg

This photo shows the 200x20x1.5 aluminium plate that was added for strength behind the two additional bolt fixings.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/13.jpg

They are very wide and I was a bit worried about how it would look. But actually it looks good.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/14.jpg

Cheers,
Scott

[SBD4]

Hi Scott, they look great! Nice job as usual, I get the feeling there's a little of the perfectionist in you;).

Just a thought, with those sturdy fixings you have installed, is there enough weakness in the rubber to tear off with out damaging the panel in the event that you happen to reverse up against a ledge?

[LandyAndy]

Look great Scott.
Im happy with mine so-far,but they lack that Landie Logo.
Plus installing Defender mudflaps should increase the off-road ability of the D4 by 50% so I would like some.
Roughly how much ex UK for the 4????
Cheers
Andrew

[LRD414]

Hi Scott, they look great! Nice job as usual, I get the feeling there's a little of the perfectionist in you;).
Just a thought, with those sturdy fixings you have installed, is there enough weakness in the rubber to tear off with out damaging the panel in the event that you happen to reverse up against a ledge?
Probably guilty as charged Sean.
Rubber tear off .... good question. I think so.
My gut feel is the rubber would pull through the fixings from the front (inside wheel arch). So my thinking is to put the strength behind the panel.
Perhaps I should remove the large plastic washers from the two upper fixings.

Scott

[LRD414]

Look great Scott.
Im happy with mine so-far,but they lack that Landie Logo.
Plus installing Defender mudflaps should increase the off-road ability of the D4 by 50% so I would like some.
Roughly how much ex UK for the 4????
Cheers
Andrew
Well not cheap Andrew.
Between the poor exchange rate and expensive shipping it cost me $170 for the rears.
I realise this is a bit out there for mudflaps but whatever, the logos are cool.
But as you say, what price for the halo effect of real Defender parts? :cool:

The front pair cost $40 delivered but I didn't get the genuine D1/2 version with mountain logo, which would have been approx $70 extra.
Not quite as much extra offroad prowess gained from early Disco parts.

Not sure what I'll do if these rear ones get wrecked offroading.

Scott

[LandyAndy]

Thanks Scott.
Ive found plenty of people looking at my home madys,asking where did I buy them.
Tell them DIY,several have got me to lift the suspension to take pics,I always park in lowered mode.
Andrew

[strydes]

Perfect timing, I've had mine sitting there for the last month or so but have had other priorities so now I've got some extra info on how to go about it when the time comes. Thanks.

[strydes]

Here's my effort with the genuine Defender rears and Disco1 fronts.

Should do the job along with the Stone Stomper to keep the van and back of the car safe.

You can also see the new Duratrac's lurking under there.

[Russrobe]

Just checking, I'm guessing everyone has just drilled out the pot rivets and ditched the metal bracket?

Can't seem to find anyone that's mentioned this bracket yet.

On first look i thought i could cut off the angle and still use the plate as it would fit inside the guard if cut down.

Now i don't see any point though..

Cheershttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/474.jpg

[l00kin4]

Just checking, I'm guessing everyone has just drilled out the pot rivets and ditched the metal bracket?

Cheers

That's certainly what I did.
David

[Russrobe]

That's certainly what I did.
David
Ah too easy. Thanks.

[LRD414]

I'm guessing everyone has just drilled out the pot rivets and ditched the metal bracket?
Yep exactly.

[Russrobe]

Yep exactly.
Thought I might have had the wrong ones for a second there.

[Russrobe]

Yep exactly.
Scott if you still have them do you mind reposting those photos you took? All the links are now broken. Have found this on a lot of old photos lately.

Cheers

[LRD414]

Scott if you still have them do you mind reposting those photos you took?
All the links are now broken. Have found this on a lot of old photos lately.
It's a problem with all photos in the AULRO Gallery from before it changed to https that's still being worked on.
Apparently they'll return once an issue with Tapatalk is fixed.

But here's a few of them anyway .... (won't work on Tapatalk, should be ok on main site)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/469.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/470.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/471.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/472.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/473.jpg

Cheers,
Scott

[ATH]

I do like the look of the genuine LR flaps. Logo to be seen for all those green with envy followers..... ;)
Fronts don't need to be fancy so it'll be the homemade or D1/2s for them.
Now all I need is more money....... maybe the Cook will go back to work. :o
AlanH.

[Russrobe]

I do like the look of the genuine LR flaps. Logo to be seen for all those green with envy followers..... ;)
Fronts don't need to be fancy so it'll be the homemade or D1/2s for them.
Now all I need is more money....... maybe the Cook will go back to work. :o
AlanH.
60 bucks each from Southerns.

D1 fronts were $40 delivered

1 job down. Now just to fit the cb, 2 aerials and run cables.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/432.jpg

I just had to get a wheel alignment because my castor was out that badly the RF had already knocked out the plastic clips where the screws had to go!!!

All good now =) Thank god I got that done, was toeing in 10mm!https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/433.jpg

Used some of these big flat washers.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/434.jpg
Dodgy temporary fix for the inner guard behind the bull bar. Don't know what to do with that. Maybe just a big lump of silicon

[Ferret]

60 bucks each from Southerns.

I want some. What exactly should I be asking Southern for - is it Defender 90 TD5 rear mud flaps?

[Mungus]

...
Dodgy temporary fix for the inner guard behind the bull bar. Don't know what to do with that. Maybe just a big lump of silicon

I used Sika - Body Panel Adhesive and pulled flush against protection plate. Neat and hasn't budged, but I have drilled a couple of holes in the back lip of the plate and will fit the white plastic clips from the OEM front bumper over the inner guard and screw through to them. I'll try find a pic of those white screw clips.

[Russrobe]

I want some. What exactly should I be asking Southern for - is it Defender 90 TD5 rear mud flaps?

I ended up with 2 of the same ones
.
Below is what other people have used:
"I ordered them from Rimmer Bros UK, part numbers as follows:
LR055332
CAT500450PMA"

I have 2 x LR055332 which fits both sides, you just have to make a cut out for the exhaust with a good pair of side cutters. Think they were around $70ea inc gst

Fronts look for Discovery 1 mud flaps, $40

Hope they last a while!

[Russrobe]

I used Sika - Body Panel Adhesive and pulled flush against protection plate. Neat and hasn't budged, but I have drilled a couple of holes in the back lip of the plate and will fit the white plastic clips from the OEM front bumper over the inner guard and screw through to them. I'll try find a pic of those white screw clips.

Hmm, I kind of need that gap that's all as if you push it flush with the steel plate, the guard goes out of it's original shape on mine and the tyres rub.

That solid mass in there atm is actually Paint Shield lol Sets like a rock again after removing, can see how it stops pin stripes.

[Mungus]

Might need a bit more trimmed off? Mine sits flush without distortion. Took a couple of attempts to get the trimming right though.

[ATH]

Fitted my D1 front flaps today and looks good. Backs (Defender flaps) were done a couple of weeks ago. Haven't put up pics as they look the same as others who've used the flaps from other models.
Now to get the Dee dirty over Easter and see if they work.
Thnx. for all the tips on how to do it.
AlanH.

[Strop]

Russrobe, when you bought your mud flaps did you get a left and a right or 2 right hand side ones?

Laurie

[Russrobe]

2 x LR055332

Not sure if it was left or right as it doesn't matter if you get two of the above.

Just use some side cutters to make a cutout for the exhaust. Fits perfectly.

[Russrobe]

It's definitely the ones without the big exhaust cutout already in them.

[ATH]

I bought a standard pair of Defender rear mud flaps and am ashamed to say I didn't realise the D4 had twin exhausts until I starting fitting them...... anyway they fit well, look good and the front D1 flaps also go well with the vehicle.
Good service from Rimmer in the UK.
AlanH.

[Timhodgson]

Finally did it it today. Defender mudflaps replacing the old D3 genuine ones that were 90% torn. Looks ok. LRD414 bracket to make sure.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200726/366c06f14fd1624b04e5ba8029403491.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200726/cda04ef5ecc5adaad13068eb9c17d6f0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200726/65854a4d629af0e39b4d38a1070ee8ea.jpg