How do I remove the fresh/recirc servo motor

[ian4002000]

I have a fresh air/ recirc servo motor stuck on recirc.
I cant seem to find any way to unbolt the assembly.
All ideas very appreciated.

[wayneg]

Do a search under BLEND MOTORS, here and rangerovers.net. Lots of info with pictures. A pain to do but not the end of the word, just time and patience

[Derham18B4]

The recirculating motors are attached directly to each of the blower motors under the dash. You have to remove the blower motor, no easy way I'm afraid.

[TheTree]

Apparently it's not too hard to remove the blower motors, though the right one is a little tight on our cars

P38 Blower Motor Repair (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/125546-p38-blower-motor-repair.html)

Steve

[Scouse]

It appears that removing the actual blower motor isn't too hard but if you want to access the recirculate motor, then the motor/flap assy needs to come out.
As far as I can tell, it's a dash out job, and even then the end frames need to be loosened off to gain decent access for removal.
You also need to strip down the fresh air pollen filter assy to refit the rubber seal between the pollen filter box & flap housing


From the factory, the recirc motors are fitted between the flap housing & body. When I refitted mine, I swapped them to the other side. This makes the LH one accessible after removing the glovebox but doesn't help the RH one though as it's now blocked by the pedal box.

[ian4002000]

Thanks for the advice, I have the blower motor out which was reasonably easy but it is the fresh air/recirc motor that appears to not be working. When you say dash out are you meaning dash crash pas or whole unit including air cond heater bit in the centre.
Is the vent assembly supported by the pollen filter housing and or are the bolts under the pollen filter ?
Do you know of any instructions other than the workshop manual ? Does

[mtb_gary]

This one' s quite a clear instruction complete with pictures (for the blend motors not the recirculation/fresh motors)

Range Rover blend motor repair on a P38 - a HOW TO guide (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/49913-range-rover-blend-motor-repair-p38-how-guide.html)

Good luck

Gary

[Scouse]

Thanks for the advice, I have the blower motor out which was reasonably easy but it is the fresh air/recirc motor that appears to not be working. When you say dash out are you meaning dash crash pas or whole unit including air cond heater bit in the centre.
Is the vent assembly supported by the pollen filter housing and or are the bolts under the pollen filter ?
Do you know of any instructions other than the workshop manual ? DoesJust the crash pad assy but you also need to loosen the dash end frames too.


There's a seal which fits between the recirc housing & the pollen filter housing. It needs to be fitted onto the recirc housing prior to fitment & then pulled up through the body. To pull it up, the pollen filter housing needs to come off.


The seal is the rectangular piece at the bottom of this picture:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[redandy3575]

You'd almost wouldn't bother. What a challenge.

I reckon if the next P38 does something like that, you'd just leave it and open a window or :p

[Scouse]

What a challenge.

Well, it is a P38 after all.

[ian4002000]

Just the crash pad assy but you also need to loosen the dash end frames too.


There's a seal which fits between the recirc housing & the pollen filter housing. It needs to be fitted onto the recirc housing prior to fitment & then pulled up through the body. To pull it up, the pollen filter housing needs to come off.


The seal is the rectangular piece at the bottom of this picture:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=82339&d=1408367597
Yes that works, not too hard but very time consuming the first time.
Thanks for the directions they work.
I should have applied power to the motor first to check its operation as it was working.
Removing the dash pad has allowed me to fit a new seal between the air cond unit and the dash pad, which had dissolved. I made one up from foam seal strips.
I have also blocked up the vent tubes leading to the rear console outlet as these have no practical use and are a source of warm air on a hot day.
Replacing the plenum filter with gutter guard as I had some and it wont restrict air flow but will stop leaves etc going down the plenum.

[Scouse]

I should have applied power to the motor first to check its operation as it was working.
What did you find to be the problem?

[ian4002000]

Not sure, The two wire blend motors are powered either way by positive and negative.
I should have done this before removing the dash pad and vent assembly.
The manual also talks about the system do a self test and operating all the flaps after the battery is reconnected, so now I don't know whether the blend motor was working but out of limit or just a bad connection.
I have been giving all the electrical connectors a good spray of CRC Di Electric Grease. This stuff should be in every P38 toolkit and should give good connections for years to come.

[TheTree]

Not sure, The two wire blend motors are powered either way by positive and negative.
I should have done this before removing the dash pad and vent assembly.
The manual also talks about the system do a self test and operating all the flaps after the battery is reconnected, so now I don't know whether the blend motor was working but out of limit or just a bad connection.
I have been giving all the electrical connectors a good spray of CRC Di Electric Grease. This stuff should be in every P38 toolkit and should give good connections for years to come.

Dielectric grease is good stuff, but don't get it on the actually connectors because it is an insulator:angel:

To clean corroded contacts use DeOxit or similar and for dirty contacts you can use an electronic solvent spray

Steve

[ian4002000]

I thought di electric grease would increase the contact of the terminals and was used to connect heat sinks on transistors to help them last longer by giving a better connection.

[TheTree]

I thought di electric grease would increase the contact of the terminals and was used to connect heat sinks on transistors to help them last longer by giving a better connection.

It seems it is an insulator but can be used on high voltage connections

Silicone grease - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease)

Using it on transistor heatsinks increases the thermal transfer rate between the heatsink and the device resulting in cooler running

Steve