Drive flange bolt torque setting.

[Drover]

Just got back from 5 weeks in the centre, including a Simpson crossing.

While away the rear drive flanges started to weep a little oil, caused by loose drive flange bolts. However while nipping them up I managed to snap one. 1/2 hour latter new bolt installed, good to go.

So now Iam back home all new bolts and sealant for all four flanges.

So, this time I'll use the torque wrench.

Can anybody provide the torque setting for these bolts. I seem to recall 65nm or was it f/lb........

Any help is appreciated.

[jboot51]

65nm is what the manual states, but I've snapped a few at that torque,
I have read 50nm is ok

[Chops]

Best I could find was this table off the specs which lists it as a Hub Driving member (??) not a drive flange.
Sorry, the table has'nt worked, but you get the idea.
Hope this helps.

Torque Specifications
Description Nm lb-ft Hub driving member to hub 65* 48 Brake disc to hub 73 53 Stub axle to swivel pin housing 65* 48 Brake caliper to swivel pin housing 82 61 Upper swivel pin to swivel pin housing 65* 48 Lower swivel pin to swivel pin housing 25* 18 Oil seal retainer to swivel pin housing 11 8 Swivel bearing housing to axle case 73* 53 Pinion housing to axle case 41 30 Crown wheel to differential housing 58 43 Differential bearing cap to pinion housing 90 65 Differential drive flange to drive shaft 47 34 Mudshield to bracket lower swivel pin 11 8 Bevel pinion nut 130 Draglink to hub arm 40 30 Panhard rod to axle bracket 88 65 Radius arm to axle 190 140 Radius arm to chassis side member 190 140

[PAT303]

I do mine to 30 and then to 60. Pat

[ozy013]

Just got back from 5 weeks in the centre, including a Simpson crossing.

While away the rear drive flanges started to weep a little oil, caused by loose drive flange bolts. However while nipping them up I managed to snap one. 1/2 hour latter new bolt installed, good to go.

So now Iam back home all new bolts and sealant for all four flanges.

So, this time I'll use the torque wrench.

Can anybody provide the torque setting for these bolts. I seem to recall 65nm or was it f/lb........

Any help is appreciated.
Hope this helps, couldn't find rear axle specs in manual at the moment. If you need any more let us know. Just in a rush to sit down and watch the second Bledisloe game.
Torque Specifications
Description Nm lb-ft
Hub driving member to hub 65* 48
Brake disc to hub 73 53
Stub axle to swivel pin housing 65* 48
Brake caliper to swivel pin housing 82 61
Upper swivel pin to swivel pin housing 65* 48
Lower swivel pin to swivel pin housing 25* 18
Oil seal retainer to swivel pin housing 11 8
Swivel bearing housing to axle case 73* 53
Pinion housing to axle case 41 30
Crown wheel to differential housing 58 43
Differential bearing cap to pinion housing 90 65
Differential drive flange to drive shaft 47 34
Mudshield to bracket lower swivel pin 11 8
Bevel pinion nut 130
Draglink to hub arm 40 30
Panhard rod to axle bracket 88 65
Radius arm to axle 190 140
Radius arm to chassis side member 190 140

* Apply sealant, Part No. STC 50552 To bolt threads

[Drover]

3 wheels done, 1 to go !

Still not sure how I did it, but I somehow managed to snap one of bolts off while undoing it it ?

Anyway took several hour to get it out, but all good now.

Just the near side front to do in the morning.

Thanks to all for the info.

[BadCo.]

Mine felt like a lot more then 60nm when I took them off haha

[Drover]

Mine felt like a lot more then 60nm when I took them off haha

I thought the same.....

And 64nm didn't seem like enough when putting back on !

[BadCo.]

Just noticed you are suppose to apply sealant as well, I only greased them with what I had handy. Any issue with that?

[Drover]

Just noticed you are suppose to apply sealant as well, I only greased them with what I had handy. Any issue with that?

If their not leaking than I wouldn't think so.

[ozy013]

Sealant STC50552 : Loctite 243

[Drover]

I used Permatex "Ultra Blue" gasket maker & Permatex "Thread Locker Blue"(medium strength), both very good products.

[ozy013]

Yep any good medium strength thread locker will do, Loctite 243 was the first that sprang to mind. I have also used Permatex "Thread Locker Blue", and agree that it's a quality product.

[uninformed]

Paper gaskets with a light spray of hylomar and very clean bolts have worked for me and yes I do run oil filled hubs one compartment right through.

[Blknight.aus]

Gasket with sealant or sealastic of choice to seal it After you clean out the threads and the sealing faces. Inspect all bolts for stepping and stretching and chattering marks, replace if required or unsure

loctite 242/243 on the bolts.

Tighten to 20nm in a star pattern to seat everything, secure the criclip and check for some lateral free play of the axle in the drive flange.

Tighten to 65nm in a star pattern and then recheck.

[patclan]

3 wheels done, 1 to go !

Still not sure how I did it, but I somehow managed to snap one of bolts off while undoing it it ?

Anyway took several hour to get it out, but all good now.

Just the near side front to do in the morning.

Thanks to all for the info.

I did my rear brake discs last week, the second last bolt snapped flush with the hub, It would just not budge, put me back 3 hours getting it out and I am not too happy with the outcome so may replace the hub, I think I damaged the threads in the hub, new screw is locked in and holding but it got to the 65nm a bit too easy I think.

How did you remove yours?

Cheers
Pat.

[rick130]

I did my rear brake discs last week, the second last bolt snapped flush with the hub, It would just not budge, put me back 3 hours getting it out and I am not too happy with the outcome so may replace the hub, I think I damaged the threads in the hub, new screw is locked in and holding but it got to the 65nm a bit too easy I think.

How did you remove yours?

Cheers
Pat.
Drill, tap and helicoil it, Pat.

Or drill and tap for the next bolt size.

[jboot51]

+1 for helicoil
I've got the m10 x 1.5mm kit here if you need it.

[86mud]

British Off Road are doing a new style of drive flange which has additional bolts. Obviously the hub needs to be modified to match.

I have never had any issues with my flange bolts coming undone....I use Permatex blue silicone to seal the surface of the flange and Locktite on the bolts


Apologies if this is old news

[patclan]

+1 for helicoil
I've got the m10 x 1.5mm kit here if you need it.


Thanks for the offer, appreciate it, I just ordered one, watched a few u tube vids and decided that would be great on the shelf along side my nutsert tool I have used once.


Drill, tap and helicoil it, Pat.

Or drill and tap for the next bolt size.

I had drilled it out and tapped it but only back to m10 which is probably my problem helicoil seems the way now so will fix when my new tool comes..

Thanks for the help gents and apologies for the thread hijack.. :D

[Drover]

I did my rear brake discs last week, the second last bolt snapped flush with the hub, It would just not budge, put me back 3 hours getting it out and I am not too happy with the outcome so may replace the hub, I think I damaged the threads in the hub, new screw is locked in and holding but it got to the 65nm a bit too easy I think.

How did you remove yours?

Cheers
Pat.

I managed to get a drill pretty much dead centre. Tried an "easy-out" no luck.
So I increased drill size up to 6.5mm (without exposing any thread) then with 3mm bur, cut out one side of the now very thin bolt ( from inside) until thread was just exposed and with a little persuasion collapsed it in on its self and removed with pointy nosed pliers.

Only took 3 hours ish......

[Toxic_Avenger]

Bringing this one back to life.

As part of a diff centre replacement job on a puma without any prior diff / drive flange work done to it.
I noticed it was interesting that torque setting is so low... but the bloody drive flange bolts are loctited in.

In the process (long story, broken out in the field), ended up snapping 2 bolts in the hub.

Thinking I'll try drill out with a LH bit, if that fails, go bigger until something gives.
Otherwise open to suggestions

[Tote]

My 130 had a broken bolt when the diff lock was done, added an hours labour to the job. That was a factory bolt that snapped under normal use conditions, with the Disco style axles that have integrated drive members.

Regards,
Tote

[Toxic_Avenger]

Center popped a mark, took to it with a 3/16 pilot bit, then up to 7mm in a drill press. Have missed the threads, but still no movement. LH drill bit didn't work, loctite is being very tenacious.
Going to get a proper ezy-out tomorrow, and see how it goes. If not, new hub time.
Could get it milled dead-nutz and helicoil'd at a machine shop, but for that money, new is a no brainer.

[rick130]

A tiny tip with oxy, get the bolt cherry red and then try.
That kills the Loctite

[4bee]

A tiny tip with oxy, get the bolt cherry red and then try.
That kills the Loctite


I thought that as well Rick but have never tried the heat on a Loctited thread, only read about it. Lucky or wot? I'm surprised it needs to be "Cherry Red" but if that is what it takes, so be it, as the buggers have to come out.

[rick130]

Just really hot Des, dull cherry so you know

[rick130]

I was always lucky using socket head cap screws as flywheel bolts on race engine back in the day (before ARP) but the prescribed removal process was a dull cherry, centre pop with a punch and then it should come undone with an allen key

[rick130]

Have you had a chance to attack it yet, Mitch?

[Toxic_Avenger]

Short version is, yeah, threw a heap of consumables and some pretty specialised tooling at it, but to no avail.

I have got a new replacement on order, will see how badly I can **** the old one from here on in- we'll call it a learning experience / exercise in patience.

The Sutton Easy-out just mangled itself (didn't snap, thankfully). This was after a good bit of heat from the MAPP torch.

Attempted to TIG build-up some material to get a bolt or something welded on, but had a rough time with all the other contaminants in there, and lunched a few tungstens in the process. Plus some stray arcs (trying to weld down inside that 10mm bore).

Gave it hell with a 1/4" cylindrical die grinder bit to try get a few cuts on it to weaken it, but between the loctite and the strong steel, the thread won't collapse. A M10x1.5 tap also wasn't toughing it to dislodge the remains of the threads in there...

This is all while the hub is off the car. You'd be daft to do it on-vehicle.

I'll whack a M10x1.5 helicoil kit thru it more likely, as this is the only way I'll get any semblance of a proper thread in there.

[4bee]

Short version is, yeah, threw a heap of consumables and some pretty specialised tooling at it, but to no avail.

I have got a new replacement on order, will see how badly I can **** the old one from here on in- we'll call it a learning experience / exercise in patience.

The Sutton Easy-out just mangled itself (didn't snap, thankfully). This was after a good bit of heat from the MAPP torch.

Attempted to TIG build-up some material to get a bolt or something welded on, but had a rough time with all the other contaminants in there, and lunched a few tungstens in the process. Plus some stray arcs (trying to weld down inside that 10mm bore).

Gave it hell with a 1/4" cylindrical die grinder bit to try get a few cuts on it to weaken it, but between the loctite and the strong steel, the thread won't collapse. A M10x1.5 tap also wasn't toughing it to dislodge the remains of the threads in there...

This is all while the hub is off the car. You'd be daft to do it on-vehicle.

I'll whack a M10x1.5 helicoil kit thru it more likely, as this is the only way I'll get any semblance of a proper thread in there.


Ah well, it is academic now since you have sorted a new one.

Was worth a try.[bigsad]