Timing belt change please

[Rockylizard]

Gday...

I know there have been threads on changing the timing belt on 2.7 D3 motor and the oil pump housing but I searched on Timing Belt, Timing Belt change, Oil Pump Housing ... and I got heaps of threads ... but not a thing on this topic.

I have just about reached 168,000km on my 2006 D3 2.7 TDV6 - timing belt time :(

I have previously read the advice on here about changing the oil pump housing at the same because it is prone to fail soon after due to some reason with horrific and expensive consequences.

When I booked the D3 into for the service, I said I wanted the oil pump housing changed at the same time as the timing belt. All I got was a strange look from the Service Manager and his assistant (an ex-techo with workshop experience). Quote - "We have changed many timing belts on early 2.7 TDV6 and have NEVER changed the oil pump housing - and not one has failed after the work" ... they had never heard of this problem. :(

I have used this dealer for the past five years I have had the D3 and they have always been knowledgeable, reliable and fair priced and open in their knowledge and acceptance of any problems.

Can someone please tell me again why it is "critical" to change the oil pump housing when replacing the timing belt? Or have I got the bull by the proverbials again ? ;)

Cheers - John

[101RRS]

I have just about reached 168,000km on my 2006 D3 2.7 TDV6 - timing belt time :(


Your timing belt was actually due for a change last year (7 year rule) so is now over 12months overdue.

The oil pump housing can crack when the system is retorqued after the belt change causing engine failure. The new pump housing has extra reinforcing to prevent this happening.

Garry

[Rockylizard]

Gday...

Thanks for the quick response - that is what I thought I had read - cracks after due to inability to handle the 're-tensioning' with a resultant horrific and expense consequence. I will discuss with the Service Manager again.

Re 7 year ... it is interesting because it is "plated Dec 2006" but landed Straya Apr 2007 and first registered end May 2007. Guess it is always difficult to determine just when the "age" of a vehicle is determined/reached.

Cheers - John

[shorty]

Hi john,

I am due for the 7 year belt service on my D3 too and have had similar responses from both independent landrover specialists and dealers.

They actually seem quite reluctant to replace the oil pump housing as in their experience they have never seen an issue.

My feeling is that if they tighten the bolts to the correct torque then it must be quite unlikely to fail. It is possible however as we have seen on the forums. Now that our cars are out of warranty and we will be the ones picking up the pieces if there is a problem I suppose it is an individual choice.

The people I have spoken with have quoted about an extra $250 for the upgraded part and another $250 for the labour.

Matt

[101RRS]

I will discuss with the Service Manager again.

Re 7 year ... it is interesting because it is "plated Dec 2006" but landed Straya Apr 2007 and first registered end May 2007. Guess it is always difficult to determine just when the "age" of a vehicle is determined/reached.

Cheers - John

If the service manager acknowledges that you should replace the oil pump housing then as an agent for Landrover he has just admitted that there is an issue and would make it easier for a litigant to hold LR responsible for subsequent engine failure. Get your Service Manager to pull up the part fro the part number - he will see that it is a different part from what is fitted to your car.

Most independents are aware of this and some will not do the belt change without the pump change as they are not prepared to be held responsible for a subsequent failure.

Your car is a December 2006 build therefore the belt would have been due in December 2013.

But in reality is probably not an issue for a while.

Garry

[TerryO]

$500 extra all up seams like cheap insurance for peace of mind that yours won't be one of the few to fail after the major service I reckon.

[oldsalt]

Had mine all done a while ago - totally agree "it's a peace of mind thing" ... and you DO need the new oil pump housing !!!! it's definitely different in it's structure.
good luck with it...

[Rich84]

$500 extra sounds like a pretty good deal. Definitely worth it - the rate of failure for the pump is by no means high - I doubt it would be any higher than 1% failing - but you don't want to be the one it happens to. It definitely seems to be the most common catastrophic failure on TDV6 engines by a very large margin.

[sheerluck]

Mine cost $150 to do, as I did it myself. But there is a very noticeable difference in the structure. If you want to see what they look like side by side, there's a picture in my "Sheerluck's Project D3" thread.

[shanegtr]

For the guys who do this work themselves, wheres the best place to buy the oil pump housing? I take it that a replacement LR part is the order of the day?

Also can anyone recommend a place to get hold of a new timing belt kit - Im happy with running Gates or Dayco belt kits, or getting it from LR if required

[sheerluck]

I imported my belt kit, oil pump and front seal from the UK.

There is only a LR genuine pump and seal, but you can get a OEM belt kit (front & rear separate kits), and Dayco is the best option.

[shanegtr]

I imported my belt kit, oil pump and front seal from the UK.

There is only a LR genuine pump and seal, but you can get a OEM belt kit (front & rear separate kits), and Dayco is the best option.

Wouldn't happen to have a shop name or website you went through would you?

[Rich84]

I used the dayco kit - no problems and very good quality. It doesn't come with a new tensioner bolt though, which you do need.


NB. the OEM belt that came off my 08my car was Dayco. Gates is a reputable company also.

[shorty]

Can those with experience help shed some light on specific part numbers and other jobs to do while access is easy.

I was thinking of replacing the water pump while doing the oil pump housing / timing belt job. The water pumps aren't that expensive and should be easy to do while we're at it or is it just an unneccessary cost? Is there anything else which can be easily done while you're there?

From a parts point of view here is a list of what I think I need:

1 x LR016655 front timing belt kit (includes new belt / tensioner and tensioner bolt)
1 x LR013487 upgraded oil pump housing
2 x LR1311306 idler pulleys
1 x LR009324 water pump
1 x LR1102415 front crank seal
1 x LR002458 front crank bolt

I can't seem to find a part number for oil pump housing seal or water pump gaskets / seals. Are these supplied in a kit under the above mentioned part numbers or do they need to be ordered separately. And are there any other gaskets / seals / bolts that should be on hand?

Thanks in advance for any advice. Cheers,

Matt

[shanegtr]

From the info I've recived the seal for the oil pump housing comes with the part (but not the crankshaft seal)

Also the rear fuel pump belt is worth doing at the same time as the timing belt IMHO

[Ciaran]

Can those with experience help shed some light on specific part numbers and other jobs to do while access is easy.

I was thinking of replacing the water pump while doing the oil pump housing / timing belt job. The water pumps aren't that expensive and should be easy to do while we're at it or is it just an unneccessary cost?
Matt

I think it is probably a good idea to change the water pump while you are at it. I had the following happen to me:

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Water pump bolts just sheared.........WTF ? (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic91138.html)

[rocmic]

Also the rear fuel pump belt is worth doing at the same time as the timing belt IMHO
X2 actually it is part of the 168000km / 7 year service. Both the front timing belt and the rear fuel pump belt should be done.
Cheers
Mike