Disco 3 Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

[Tote]

Being a glutton for punishment I decided to do the front lower control arms on my 2008 D3 myself. This will be the second set that the vehicle has had in 245000KM, it was starting to get a bit wandery and knocking occasionally so it was time.

I ordered some Britpart arms from LR Direct in the UK. I got a price from the local dealer and they were $460 each, I got both arms and some filters and trim clips etc landed on my doorstep in 5 working days for $515.00. Part numbers are LR028245 and LR028249, I decided to go for the bearmach units at 75.00 pounds each to see how they go.

Fitting them is not without it's trials, nothing hard but you do need a couple of big sockets and a BIG breaker bar. I found out the hard way that a 1/2" bar wont do the trick, the photo below shows my efforts and the new 3/4" breaker bar I bought.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1716_zps7f1cd505.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1716_zps7f1cd505.jpg.html)

The first step while the vehicle is on the ground is to loosen the driveshaft nuts.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1717_zpsd3b1be38.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1717_zpsd3b1be38.jpg.html)

Once this is done give the alignment bolts a squirt of paint to give yourself a reasonable chance of getting the alignment somewhere near right.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1720_zpsaa89fb2f.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1720_zpsaa89fb2f.jpg.html)

Then it's just a case of pulling out the bolts and removing the lower control arm. The drive shaft needs to be moved to get the lower ball joint out which is why we loosened it in the first step.
It helps if you can also source a 24mm extended socket to undo the nut on the rear bush. I did get the passenger side one off with a spanner but it was bloody tight and the spanner has a fairly limited amount of movement when on the nut.
There is a pretty good guide on the Disco3 site that I used as a reference as well DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic86153.html) I looked at the bill for the last time I had the arms done and it was $1800.00 for parts and labour so doing it yourself does save a few bucks if you are prepared to spend some time under the vehicle.
I still need to get a wheel alignment next week as well.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Did the other side tonight and learnt a couple of lessons that are worth repeating.
Firstly the 24mm long socket made the camber adjustment nuts a whole lot easier to do.
Secondly if you support the bottom of the stub axle assembly with a trolley jack you can remove and replace the lower control arm by removing the bolts at the bushes first which lets you roll the jack back enough to pop out the drive shaft and remove the already loosened ball joint with the assembly nicely supported and able to be raised and lowered to give some wiggle room.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1724_zpsf9d7bcd2.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1724_zpsf9d7bcd2.jpg.html)

I also put copper non seize compound on the bolts before I refitted them. Mine weren't nearly as bad as some of the pommy ones where they have to get out the petrol powered cutoff wheel to get them out but they were a little rusty so I figured it cant hurt for next time.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1725_zpsa9f4a573.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/D3%20Front%20Wishbones/IMGP1725_zpsa9f4a573.jpg.html)

All up the second side took me about 2 hours from start to finish with the correct tools and a bit of practice.

Regards,
Tote

[Redback]

Great work mate, so the right side was good practice for the left side;)

Baz.

[kiwirich]

Hi Tote,
Did you use Standard ones or the Armoured ones that are the same as the RRS ?

Thanks for the photos, I'll be doing this job soon.

Richard

[Tote]

I used the Britpart ones from LR Direct. They are aftermarket ones so I'm not sure of the type of bushes they are fitted with. I got the LR ones fitted last time (supplied locally) and got about 80,000 KM from them so I decided to give the cheapies a go and see what life they have. I'm keeping the old arms and I might do the bushes on them next time myself so I can get them pressed in at my leisure.
Prices seem to be about 80 pounds each for aftermarket, 120 for oem and about 150 for genuine. All of which are cheaper than the $460.00 I was quoted by the dealer. Freight was about 100 pounds.

Regards,
Tote

[Epic pooh]

I did exactly the same thing, mine have done about 20K so far and they still feel pretty good. I kept my old arms and have thought of trying poly bushes as my car is on its third set of lca bushes. In my case I think it is time to do some of the rear bushes and sway bar rubbers ... joy !

[NomadicD3]

Hi Guys,
Great info Tote thanks.
I do need some clarification on the various types or brands of lower control arms. Have people been using the D4 lower control arms in their D3's? I currently have a recommendation from a UK contact that only the original lower control arms are suitable?
So from those who have changed out their lower control arms, does anyone have a brand they recommend or don't recommend?

I hope this isn't hijacking your thread :angel:.
regards Brian

[Tote]

To be perfectly honest I can't tell much difference between the Bearmach ones I put in and the genuine ones I pulled out, the bushes look the same and the only difference I could see on the arms is that Land Rover isn't stamped on them. The Ball Joint has a nyloc nut instead of the steel one the genuine arms have.
The part numbers quoted above are the latest revision of the D3 part number which may be the same as a D4 one but I haven't researched that. Typing the part numbers into LR direct's web site produces a few different options.
Regards,
Tote

[vbrab]

I've done mine 3 times now and have to do them again tomorrow (another lost Saturday, but I think of the cost saving).
In my case I seem to need to replace about every 2 years or 80,000k.
Was told by British Parts that all lower arms now have the upgraded ball joint (heavier than on original part). (Looked the same to me when I changed over 1st set.)
1st replacement was with Genuine "stamped" LR arms, next was with British Parts own brand, both seemed to last about the same time. Seems Bearmach or Brit Parts make pretty serviceable replacement parts.
I got the impression that D4 and D3 were same lower arm, as they sold me "D4" arms saying they were the "upgraded" arms. (They fitted)

It seems the bushes get a fair bit of pressure/strain on them and they are what wears as much as the ball joint.
I have also tried just re-bushing, almost not worth the messing about, as the bushes just do not come out like normal bushes and are absolute cows to refit.
Talking 10 ton presses and oxy to remove them out.
I'm told that fitting nylon bushes results in harder ride, with less movement in suspension, and a lot of road "feel"/vibration coming back up into vehicle. But evidently they last longer.

As others have said, using never seize on bolts and drive shaft splines, and that long 24 mm socket are all good time savers.

[Dagilmo]

It seems the bushes get a fair bit of pressure/strain on them and they are what wears as much as the ball joint.
I have also tried just re-bushing, almost not worth the messing about, as the bushes just do not come out like normal bushes and are absolute cows to refit.

I thought it was the bushes not the ball joint that was the failure point on the LCAs.

I've got the jig for bush replacement on the car. Push the old bush out and push the new one in. Works well.

[PerthDisco]

Try the Meyle HD arms from Advanced Factors. Had them in now for a few months and completely happy with feel and absolutely no harshness. Think they offer a good warranty also.

[Pippin]

Try the Meyle HD arms from Advanced Factors. Had them in now for a few months and completely happy with feel and absolutely no harshness. Think they offer a good warranty also.Have had mine in for a few months as well and also completely happy!

[shanegtr]

I just had a look at my records - done the lower fronts last @ 210000km. Now at 308000km so nearly 100000kms on the current arms which where the meyle HD from advance factors

[vbrab]

I thought it was the bushes not the ball joint that was the failure point on the LCAs.

I've got the jig for bush replacement on the car. Push the old bush out and push the new one in. Works well.


All good if you Jig up for the bushes.
While doing them, I could see it would require jigging, and would then be well worth it in cost savings compared to buying complete arm.
Being remote, we just had all the usual bush pullers and bearing press, and the oxy to encourage them.
Had a Dealer service person tell that they have to resort to oxy to move some of the bushes, and they found bushes hard to press out (which suggest they haven't jigged up).
I didn't feel so bad about resorting to oxy after hearing that.

Setting up a jig to re-bush is certainly the way to go, as this seems to be a regular service event.

[PerthDisco]

Repeating again, I have my old arms to donate to any WA member who wants a set to rebush as spare.

[jwb]

I've got a set of original arms I would like to get re-bushed.
Can anyone direct me to a place who can do this in Melbourne?
thanks

[DieselLSE]

I've got a set of original arms I would like to get re-bushed.
Can anyone direct me to a place who can do this in Melbourne?
thanks
Hang on for a bit. I'm just about to replace my lower front arms (with genuine new) and intend re-bushing the old arms. I have access to a number of workshops in Melbourne and one of them will have the right press and allow me to set up a jig for the job.
Haven't decided what bushes to use yet, but that doesn't really matter.

[jwb]

AM
Hi DieselLSE

Thanks for that. I'm in no hurry at the moment. The arms put in 2 years ago were aftermarket and I think I'm starting to hear a knock again but maybe its my imagination.
When the time comes I'll do some research and seek advice on which bushes to use.
Let me know how you progress.

[loanrangie]

AM
Hi DieselLSE

Thanks for that. I'm in no hurry at the moment. The arms put in 2 years ago were aftermarket and I think I'm starting to hear a knock again but maybe its my imagination.
When the time comes I'll do some research and seek advice on which bushes to use.
Let me know how you progress.



I have the bush removal kit but you will also need a large bearing puller plate and a large diameter piece of tube ( larger then bush ) to aid in removal.
I did mine without removing the arms over a pit and wasnt that difficult apart from the front bush which doesn't have a gap to get a puller onto, that took a bit of persuasion .

[discorevy]

AM
Hi DieselLSE

Thanks for that. I'm in no hurry at the moment. The arms put in 2 years ago were aftermarket and I think I'm starting to hear a knock again but maybe its my imagination.
When the time comes I'll do some research and seek advice on which bushes to use.
Let me know how you progress.




Have you replaced the sway bar "D" bushes ?
knock at low speed say brakes on up a kerb or small step in forward or reverse , usually control arm bushes
knocking over potholes etc , usually sway bar bushes.

[Tote]

Knocking at low speed can also be caused by faulty steering rack ends, a much more pleasant replacement experience than bushes [smilebigeye]
Regards,
Tote

[loanrangie]

Knocking at low speed can also be caused by faulty steering rack ends, a much more pleasant replacement experience than bushes [smilebigeye]
Regards,
Tote

Rack end replacement is on the cards so hope its easier.

[jwb]

Rack end replacement is on the cards so hope its easier.

How do i check this?
thanks

[Tote]

Safely jack up the front wheels one at a time and move them left and right. If there is movement that isn't transmitted to the steering wheel you should be able to feel it.

Regards,
Tote