How to loosen a recalcitrant bolt?

[sam_d]

I had planned to fit my newly acquired winch at the weekend and part of the preparation procedure was to rotate the gearbox so the lever can be accessed and to check the grease within.

However, in the process of removing the ten hex/Allen bolts that are holding the gearbox to the mounting face, I am stuck with one bolt that just won't shift.

After a few days bathing in WD40 it is still as stuck today as it was when I first started and, to make things a bit more complicated, the head on this bolt was already stripped out before I started (as were 2 of the other bolts but they got freed using a pair of pliers).

I have tried lots of WD40 and horrific language but neither work. And the bolt is a bit too small and inaccessible to use fire and large hammers on and is recessed just a bit too much for me to connect to my drill's chuck.

So, what are my options for removing this bolt / fixing this problem? Any suggestions?

[PhilipA]

I would get a Dremel or similar tool with a HD cutting disc and cut the head off. With the cover removed you should have plenty of room to remove the thread with pliers.
Regards Philip A

[strangy]

If you have hex drive fittings (the Allen Key that fits into a socket) I would use a small hammer and tap the drive in. These tend to transfer the turning force into plane of direction more directly than an Allen Key.
Often there is just enough hex left at the bottom of the head for this to grip and the hammer tap helps loosen the bolt.
Sometimes the next size up can be tapped in.
or, Vice grips in conjuction with the above
or, failing this, a centre punch on the on the side of the head, offset from the centre line, as close to the base of the head as possible, tap to loosen.
Some freeze spray may help too.

There are options to drill the bolt head out but it depends on your drill sizes and confidence. Too enthusiastic and you could damage the soft alloy housing.

[spudboy]

Do you reckon you could get one of these type of sockets onto that nut:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/267.jpg

It is an Irwin bolt extractor. Get them from Bunnings or a good tool shop. About $45 for a 5 socket set from memory.

HTH
David

[davidsonsm]

Try freeze it or freeze ya nuts off or similar. It works brilliantly to overcome that initial resistance. Wish I'd discovered it years ago.

[Pateyw]

You don't have much room to use any form of stud extractor .
I would get a bolt that fits tightly in the hex ,long enough to give you room to turn the bolt head .
Now weld the bolt to Allen screw ,gently tap down on the bolt and turn .
Worked many a time for me .

[Bigbjorn]

Have you tried a left hand helix drill bit? Needs a drill that will turn in reverse. The thrust generated by the cutting action usually just winds stuck fasteners out.

[Tank]

WD40 is next to useless, mix 50/50 ATF and some Acetone and spray that on and leave for a while, or use some heat directly on the bolt head it should release the Loctite, good luck, Regards Frank.

[Aaron IIA]

If you have hex drive fittings (the Allen Key that fits into a socket) I would use a small hammer and tap the drive in. These tend to transfer the turning force into plane of direction more directly than an Allen Key.
Often there is just enough hex left at the bottom of the head for this to grip and the hammer tap helps loosen the bolt.
Sometimes the next size up can be tapped in.

Use a hex key with a 1/2" drive, then use an impact driver.
Aaron

[Tombie]

Yield works well, and with the damaged head... "Drive" a torx bit into the head of the bolt and wind it out :cool:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Heat!

[Killer]

Use a hex key with a 1/2" drive, then use an impact driver.
Aaron

X2.

Cheers, Mick.

[Bigbjorn]

Yield works well, and with the damaged head... "Drive" a torx bit into the head of the bolt and wind it out :cool:

Chemsearch Yield. Great stuff. I call it miracle fluid. Only drawback is the price, bloody expensive.

[sam_d]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks!

I forgot to mention that due to my living arrangements (apartment in the Inner West) I lack any kind of workshop so, blasting things with heat and welding isn't an option. Most of my mechanic-ing takes place in the communal car park or on the kitchen work top (my to the annoyance of the missus).

Anyway, I couldn't find a bolt extractor at Bunnings, but I did buy a pair of needle nose vice grips. Using these to grip the bolt and a second pair of vice grips to grip the vice grips holding the bolt I was eventually able to free this ****er so all is now resolved.

Thanks for all the ideas!

[rangieman]

Heat!

I thought this from the start of the thread I have only just read this why are we the only ones to think this;) . A simple butane torch of fleabay for $7.oo a couple of cheap butane disposable cans and away you go .
I have 3 one in the tool chest at home one in the car and one in the camp trailer:D

[460cixy]

Just drill the head off and extract it later

[incisor]

sometimes when they wont loosen first couple of goes

you try to tighten a tad then try to loosen

is surprising how many times it works..

[Tombie]

Angle of tongue and correct expletives are also critical to success...

[Rick1970]

Have used the hammered in torx bit to remove pre-damages cap screws a number of times. A few sharp hits in the centre with a small drift/punch helps too.

[Aaron IIA]

I forgot to mention that due to my living arrangements (apartment in the Inner West) I lack any kind of workshop so, blasting things with heat and welding isn't an option. Most of my mechanic-ing takes place in the communal car park or on the kitchen work top (my to the annoyance of the missus).

If you don't have room for a full oxy set, get a MAPP gas set. You can then heat metal to red, silver solder and bronze weld.
Aaron

[Aaron IIA]

Yield works well, and with the damaged head... "Drive" a torx bit into the head of the bolt and wind it out :cool:



Chemsearch Yield. Great stuff. I call it miracle fluid. Only drawback is the price, bloody expensive.

I have used Yield, but can't find it anywhere. Where do buy it from?
Aaron

[Bigbjorn]

I have used Yield, but can't find it anywhere. Where do buy it from?
Aaron

Check their web site. Chemsearch is from Texas and have Australian HQ in Alexandria, Sydney.

[350RRC]

WD40 is next to useless, mix 50/50 ATF and some Acetone and spray that on and leave for a while, or use some heat directly on the bolt head it should release the Loctite, good luck, Regards Frank.

Thanks Frank, I used that mixture once before on something simple and it worked really well.

Yesterday however............ severely rusted uni joints in an old pto shaft and yokes for an old post hole digger.

Circlips mostly gone, couple of the ends of the caps had gone with the needles. Soaked the whole lot in phosphoric for a couple of days so all the surface rust was gone and I could see what I was dealing with. Got one yoke off one end, but nothing else was going to budge with a socket and BFH.

Got out the little bottle of above mixture and gave the problem areas a couple of good squirts and a rest for an hour.

All the cups came out relatively easily after that and I could see that the mix had penetrated around the cups through the film of rust between them and the yokes. Saved major grief!

cheers, DL

[sumo]

A full stick of Dynamite Mate!!, ...Only when you get the Chits with the whole shebang....




Cheers Sumo.