Moving / changing rear mud flaps on a 110?

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Hi all,

I'm looking to move my rear mudflaps from the factory position to avoid the (admittedly unlikely) situation where lots of force on the mudflap results in damaging the rear quarter panel.

Some hunting in the ADRs (see 42.12.2 in http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2011C00102 ) seems to indicate I can move the mudflap as far back as I want, as long as they end no more than 300mm from the ground and cover above the 30 degree plane from the bottom of the tyre.

I have rear bumperettes on, so I was looking to mount off them.

Has anyone else done this and/or been able to confirm this is ok to do per the ADRs?

As an aside - it looks to me that front mudflaps are REQUIRED by the ADRs for 110s as they are a class NA vehicle - maybe I should ask Land Rover to refund the optional extra charge... ;) On the other hand, even with them on the side of the truck gets filthy whenever I even smell mud, let alone drive on it, so I can't see how people drive without them.

Thanks in advance
FWD

[weeds]

the previous owner of my rig relocated the rear flaps to the rear cross member.......

i'm in the process of putting them back to the normal position

[FeatherWeightDriver]

the previous owner of my rig relocated the rear flaps to the rear cross member.......

i'm in the process of putting them back to the normal position

Ah interesting - why are you moving them back?

The other thing I thought of doing was re-enforcing the quarter panel with aluminium angle along the bottom edge, which is certainly quicker, easier and simpler...

[BilboBoggles]

Yes Agree - Mine has aluminium angle iron now. All of my Defenders have had that panel fatigue and crack so the mudflap falls off, really seems odd that Land Rover does not put a brace in there from the factory. The warranty fix from Land Rover is to move the mudflap forward a little and put a new tek screw in.

[ThorneGator]

One more vote for the aluminium angle option. I reinforced the bottom lip of the quarter panel with a length of angle using rivets. Then, using the existing hole, added a new hole through the angle. Has worked great with no fatigue to the panel.

[steveG]

On the County, I made up a support out of 25mm RHS and some flat plate and bolted it to the chassis through an existing existing hole (think originally it might have been the tie down bracket point). I made a bit of a lip on the bracket that hooks under the chassis rail to stop it rotating. Attached some insertion rubber for a mudflap and all is good!
Not attached to the panel at all, so if it does happen to take a hit its just going to bend away without damaging anything.

Only one bolt to undo if I need to take it off for any reason.

Steve

[weeds]

Ah interesting - why are you moving them back?

The other thing I thought of doing was re-enforcing the quarter panel with aluminium angle along the bottom edge, which is certainly quicker, easier and simpler...


The flaps are just conveyor belt that does not extend past the body therefore not covering the tyres 100%

[n plus one]

Be aware that if you brace your mud flap mounts it will likely mean that you'll fold the rear panel work if you snag a flap while off road...ask me how I know :mad:

[DrytheRain]

Sorry, double post. Can a Mod please delete this?

[DrytheRain]

This might be worth a look:

Land Rover Defender 110 Quick Release Rear Mud Flap Mounting Kit and Shields, Stepped Tub, GL103110 (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/defender-110-quick-release-rear-mud-flap-mounting-kit-and-shields-stepped-tub/)

It isn't the cheapest solution, but it appears that it would achieve what you want and it looks very neat. It would also help to keep mud and dirt out of your rear cross member.

I recently bought the Gwyn Lewis breather kit and although I daresay it's comprised of bits sourced from third parties, it all appears to be quality stuff. I intend to get the shields for the front and rear wheel wells as well.

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Thanks all for the input - I'm glad I'm not the only one obsessing about such things ;)


Be aware that if you brace your mud flap mounts it will likely mean that you'll fold the rear panel work if you snag a flap while off road...ask me how I know :mad:

Yeah that's what I am trying to avoid.

Stock mounts will do that anyway, so I figure any kind of re-enforcement has to be better than nothing, although SteveG's idea sounds more like the outcome I am after.

Any chance you can post a picture of your setup SteveG?

[n plus one]

Thanks all for the input - I'm glad I'm not the only one obsessing about such things ;)



Yeah that's what I am trying to avoid.

Stock mounts will do that anyway, so I figure any kind of re-enforcement has to be better than nothing, although SteveG's idea sounds more like the outcome I am after.

Any chance you can post a picture of your setup SteveG?

The stock mounts are highly unlikely to crease the entire rear panel up to the fuel filler before they fail...

[Dervish]

My driver's side flap support has taken some force at some point and has bent towards the wheel. I must've been reversing up a step and had the flap caught between the tyre and a hard place - that's the only way I can imagine it is susceptible to damage anyway. It bent the creased under surface of the side panel, but not the part you can see. If it was reinforced I imagine it would've done more damage; just my 2c.

[BilboBoggles]

I guess one way you might reduce the damage to the 1/4 panel would be to mount the mudflap frame to the ally panel/brace using a strip of rubber. Or alternatively on the older mudflaps which used to be bolted to the mudflap frame you could try cutting exit slots on the mudflap itself so that if it does get snagged it will slide out of the three bolts holding it.

For me the damage was always due to fatigue cracking of the panel itself allowing the mud flap, and teck screw, and a good chunk of my rear quater panel to fly free.

[Brid]

The 3mm allly checker plate attached to the rear panels was folded in, at the base, for the flap bracket to attach to instead of just the wimpy sheet metal. Gives me good bracing and additional rear panel protection.

[Patchy]

I read this post the other day and didnt give it much thought until today where I went for a play and did mundaring to york power line track only to get about 15min in and ripped my passenger side off the guard.

Could hear something dragging got out to find a bent up bracket and ripped the bolt clean out not a great design mr land rover haha im with others think if It was beefed up on the guard it would have done more damage. Ill go into work tomorrow throw it on the pit and make something up thinking maybe an A-bracket set up to the chassis rail but will know more once I have a propper look.

[Bushie]

Both of mine were pulled off by the weight of black mud along the Murray :mad:
At least I still have them.


Martyn

[gromit]

I recently bought the Gwyn Lewis breather kit and although I daresay it's comprised of bits sourced from third parties, it all appears to be quality stuff.

As you suggest, parts for breathers are available from third parties http://www.aulro.com/afvb/driveline-parts-sale/203190-diff-breather-kit.html

I can supply the multi-way connectors. The kit listed uses a pneumatic silencer at the end but you could put a bend in the tube if you can get the tube to a high enough temperature.


Colin

[Beckford]

Not sure about ADRs but I took the extreme option;

My mudflaps are mounted to the old front bumper which is now bolted to the back.

[komaterpillar]

You wouldn't believe it but after reading this thread I was out playing in some washouts and this happened. This is with stock standard land rover mudflaps and brackets. So now I'm gonna get rear corner chequer plate and relocate the mudflaps to the rear crossmember, might even look at some rear bumperettes

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1436.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/komaterpillar/media/16868E43-FA1D-4DD2-906A-2F4A97A12BC7_zpsbzmgncon.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1437.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/komaterpillar/media/54746D5E-8CE3-40D1-BEED-1E7D55E2071B_zps0qxxie9z.jpg.html)

[ericvv]

I think these here are the best reinforcement brackets for 110 rear mudflaps. Widely used in Europe, including myself, they are simple to install, and they work.
Entreq 110 Rear reinforcing brackets - Entreq Products (http://4x4overlander.com/entreq-products/entreq-110-rear-reinforcing-brackets.html)

[AndyG]

Not sure about ADRs but I took the extreme option;

My mudflaps are mounted to the old front bumper which is now bolted to the back.

How did you go about that ?

[Beckford]

I'll take some photos on the weekend.

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Ah - so I'm right to be paranoid... ;)

ADRs reckon you must cover the lower of:


a 30 degree angle from the back of the tyre
300mm above the ground

So if you are installing the flap close to the tyre, technically you need to be closer than 300mm from the ground.

Not sure if it specifies a maximum distance from the tyre to the flap, will have to re-read...