I need a gearbox

[lowmion]

Hi peoples, my gearbox has become just about undriveable and am chasing a replairer here in Perth, WA and I need the clutch fork angle changed as well.

My VIC / Bentleigh based mechanic Marty said with the new clutch installation it couldnt be adjusted properly and this needed to be done.

So have been ringing around Perth now for a week and have some maybe's but no-one that was obviously fluent in landrover.

So asking for some names and numbers if you know who to see, thanks.

Ps just in case someone asks so what are the symptoms...

Car is still driveable, second gear popping out hard to engage, third pops out under deceleration as does second, and it now creeps with full clutch pedal due to clutch needing adjustment, and when hot it becomes very hard to change gears, including engaged the fairely o/d which would be more clutch related than anything else.

[DanC]

Hi I have a spare gearbox lying around if you need a spare i have not used it so do not know the condition it is in . It is straight out of a spare series 2a 109 .

[lowmion]

Hi I have a spare gearbox lying around if you need a spare i have not used it so do not know the condition it is in . It is straight out of a spare series 2a 109 .
Thankyou, Pm sent :D

[lowmion]

Well I've drawn a blank from the forums, but have started to find a number of supplier and repairer options here in Perth, which I'll post for future peoples of Perth with similar problems to find a hell of a lot more easily :D

Currently the cheapest option (appears) is to buy a reconditioned gearbox from Blackburn VIC for $1650 and ship it over, but waiting on freight prices and courier fees etc.

Here in Perth if i drop the box and take it in to

Discovery Automotive 22 Paramount Dr WANGARA WA 6065,

Tom Tickel is the gent to speak to the cost for full reconditioning of the gearbox for $2500 - $3000, worse case scenario.

I'm going to see him this week re clutch pins, and for a general chat, whilst I work out all the cost.

Tom says he's no longer an under the car person but has two sons that are and carry on the skillset.

Will update this as I gather more data, pricing times, who, how, etc

And if anyone can help I'm still looking :D

[chazza]

Save yourself at least a $1000 and do it yourself. :D

All you need is a Land Rover workshop manual available here Search results for: '"workshop manual"' (http://www.paddockspares.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=%22workshop+manual%22&parts_only_search=334&vehicle=0) don't buy the Haynes manual!

There are no special tools required, except a tube spanner to tighten the main-shaft nut. You don't even need a hoist, or a trolley jack if you take the seat-box out, but a strong friend a pole and some old seatbelts are necessary, if you take the gearbox and transfer box out as one assembly.

Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne have the mechanical parts but seals are best bought from your local bearing shop,

Cheers Charlie

[tailslide]

... third pops out under deceleration as does second, ...

This is an indication that the bearings (bushes) are worn and need replacing. Quite common on the 2a gear box, or you learn to hold the gear stick to keep it in gear.:p

It is a relatively straight forward job to drop the gearbox at home if you don't mind getting under the car... I'm not quite up to it these days.:(

Cheers
Ron

[isuzurover]

As above, get a workshop manual and do it yourself. It will be a good learning experience and you will save a small fortune. The genuine IIA workshop manuals tell you everything you need to do step by step.

I don't think there would be any/many mechanics I would trust to properly rebuild a series box these days as they would see them so rarely. Plus the replacement parts available these days are highly variable and often poor quality so I would want to source and inspect all parts myself.

I have rebuilt a few series boxes and the most it ever cost me was ~$600 in parts.

3rd jumping out is IME most likely a combination of worn teeth on the synchro hub and a broken 3rd gear bush.

If you end up doing it yourself I am sure there are plenty on here (myself included) who can offer assistance/advice.

[lowmion]

Whilst the mechanical side of things isn't beyond me the time needed to do it is, kids, work commitments etc.

So i'll definitely buy the manual, and will have a read, but in all likelihood I'll end up paying for it to be done due to the time factors involved.

In VIC there's about five different well known landy parts suppliers/mechanics that I know off that could undertake the work, and being new to WA was hoping the same would exist here, just that I havnt found them yet.

It costs me about $800 in fuel for the drive from WA to Vic, yes that's in the landy at 50mph, so that's another option, but I was only going to do that again for the chassis swap.

[lowmion]

Have started pulling the seat box out, to remove the gearbox myself, I'm guessing that some of those bolts havnt been undone in 50 years?

Is there any tricks I should be aware of? The manual from the UK hasnt arrived yet, will probably get here after the work is completed :D :D

[gromit]

If you hunt around on the internet there are a few sites where you can download manuals.
When doing my Series III box I scanned the relavent pages from the Haynes manual & laminated them so I could use them in the garage. Not sure how much help they'd be on a Series II box but if you PM your email address I'll send the scans to you.


Colin

[lowmion]

pm sent thankyou

[russellrovers]

pm sent thankyouhi go round and give a spray of inox all round will help 2or3 days before regards jim

[gromit]

Scans sent.

Here is a link to the gearbox rebuild on my Series III http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-5.html#post1716272

The gearbox was out of the car when I got it so it was rebuilt & put back in.

I cleaned the outside thoroughly before starting then worked on the garage floor breaking the box down into the three main components (gearbox, transfer box and front output shaft). Take pictures as you go.


Colin

[lowmion]

I forgot the photo's, but I've havnt gotten the seat box all undone yet so there's still time, and I havnt yet done an intro on it so two birds one stone.

I dont know what inox is but I've certainly sprayed it all with some WD, the gearbox itself shouldnt be much of a pain due to new clutch etc being put in 18 months back.

Reading your rebuild post thnx for the link

[lowmion]

I dont know what inox is but I've certainly sprayed it all with some WD,


Heh just googled it, a lanolin lubricant spray from super cheap :D

[lowmion]

I've taken photos of the progress, but am stumped on how to reduce the jpegs to a size allowed to be uploaded.(it appears it does it automatically)

I've removed the seat box and then school holidays appeared causing a cessation in all works until next week.

Some of the bolts took literally ages to get undone, but most were relatively easy.

[lowmion]

having problems uploading so will have to come back to this later :D

[vnx205]

What is the problem? I can click on your thumbnails and view your photos.

[lowmion]

The answers easy, using my phone to upload, can't rotate the photos, will have to use the laptop to upload them properly

[vnx205]

Is that all?

I can tilt my head 90 degrees to the left, so I didn't realise there was a problem. :D:D:D

[lowmion]

So the seatbox is out finally, do I need to disconnect every thing or can I just unbolt the transfer case from the gearbox leaving it in place?

[isuzurover]

You can either pull the whole thing out in one go (gearbox + T-case + overdrive) as I usually do, or separate the units and lift them out one by one.

I have modified my gearbox crossmember to unbolt, so dropping the whole lot out is the easiest option - then I can work on it on the bench from there.

If you are lifting everything out you may want to remove it piece by piece.

[jdobson]

I think removing the gearbox is one of the worst jobs on a Land Rover. I did mine a few months ago and although all the bolts were only a few months old it was still a really time consuming job - there are so many bolts holding in the floor and seatbox! Once I'd done that I was able to lift the gearbox out on my own. It was pretty heavy but not impossibly so (and I'm not exactly super-strong). Worth replacing your gearbox mounts when you do this job - they are often in need of replacement.

[lowmion]

I've hit an impass, not quite sure how to start it what to undo first, and how much I have to take out to replace the gearbox.
That and my boys act up everytime I think the afternoon is free.

Sent from my C6603 using AULRO mobile app

[JDNSW]

Simplest is to follow the procedure in the workshop manual.

But basically, assuming you have the floor and seatbox out,

Disconnect front and rear prop shafts, handbrake linkage, speedo cable, reversing light wiring (if fitted), clutch slave cylinder, unbolt gearbox mounts from chassis, lift engine slightly and support under flywheel housing,

Remove gear lever assembly, support gearbox, remove bell housing to flywheel housing nuts. Move gearbox back until the input shaft clears the clutch, and lift gearbox out.

I don't think I have forgotten anything, but if I have someone will yell.
John

[gromit]

As John said.
Then with an engine hoist the job is quite simple once everything is undone.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/430.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN1557.jpg.html)


Colin

[lowmion]

Does the whole thing have to come out or can the transfer case and overdrive unit be left in (still attached to props etc)?

Sent from my C6603 using AULRO mobile app

[JDNSW]

Does the whole thing have to come out or can the transfer case and overdrive unit be left in (still attached to props etc)?

Sent from my C6603 using AULRO mobile app

It may be possible to do this, but certainly not practical. The gearbox needs to come back about 75mm to clear the clutch, but to disconnect from the transfer case the gearbox needs to come forward about 150mm relative to the transfer case, which means the transfer case (or the engine) would have to be moved a total of about 225mm. To move the transfer case this amount you would need to disconnect the drive shafts, gearbox mounts, handbrake - you could leave the speedo cable connected, but that is about the only saving!

John

[lowmion]

Okay, I'll follow the steps that the were very kindly listed and print out the manual that was emailed to me, are there any none normal tools I will need to get before I start:, and any other things I should replace, ie uni joints, and the mounts stated before?

Sent from my C6603 using AULRO mobile app

[JDNSW]

While you have the box out, unless you know it has been done recently, have a good look at the clutch. Standard 2a clutch is 9", with coil springs in the pressure plate (petrol & diesel different), and the optional one was 9.5" with a diaphragm spring - do not get sold the similar but not interchangeable Series 3 pressure plate!

Whether you need a new pressure plate and flywheel skimming will depend on their condition. Also check the state of the pilot bearing. The release bearing is internal to the gearbox, and does not normally need replacing.

While you have it apart, it may be easier to replace as necessary the output shaft seals, handbrake shoes, universal joints, slave cylinder, clutch release shaft pins, but all of these can be done with the box in place.

John

[Aaron IIA]

are there any none normal tools I will need to get before I start

Whitworth spanners and sockets may or may not be normal tools, depending on your point of view.
Aaron

[JDNSW]

Whitworth spanners and sockets may or may not be normal tools, depending on your point of view.
Aaron

Yes, depends what you call normal! If you only have metric spanners, then you will need both Imperial AF spanners and Whitworth spanners.

AF spanners are readily available, but Whitworth spanners are a bit harder to find - I find garage sales, second hand shops, charity shops and markets to be a valuable source of often good quality and cheap Whitworth spanners.

For reinstalling the gearbox you need a clutch aligning tool, but these can be readily made. Flare nut spanners (AF) are useful for the clutch hydraulics, but not essential. The nut on the gearbox output gear needs a special spanner, but you can probably manage with a soft drift.

You will find that your 2a has mostly United threads (Imperial, AF) nuts and bolts, but a substantial proportion of Whitworth; the change from BS (Whitworth & BSF) to United UNF, UNC) threads was in progress during 2a production. Any metric will have been added after it left the factory. Small screws around electrical equipment, dashboard etc are nearly all BA.

John