Towing Electrics - Big Tick

[Jimlr]

Hooked up the trailer (not LED) to the car using an adapter for less than $20.

http://www.autobarn.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/300x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/E/L/EL02207_1.jpg

Piece of cake. Went through the setup process for the trailer on the screen, with a printed and laminated version of the 'target'. All the cameras, trailer tracking stuff just works beautifully straight off the bat!!

Not done the brakes yet, but Big Tick so far :)

The white socket is working just as well straight out of the box, along with a disco3 charging adapter and the ctek battery charger, to charge the battery regularly from the back of the car. So simple.

[Meken]

Did you get the trailer assistance pack where it will show you where the trailer will go with the lines? Does your trailer have electric brakes? Have you tried turning on the lights on the car with the trailer connected?

[Jimlr]

Yes, yes and yes!

[tiddy]

Did you get the trailer assistance pack where it will show you where the trailer will go with the lines? Does your trailer have electric brakes? Have you tried turning on the lights on the car with the trailer connected?


The trailer assistance pack..is that the triangle gadget device? I assume you purchase that separately?, because my car has all the cameras etc but not the tracking bit. Any idea of the cost of that?

[shanegtr]

Just thought I'd ask the question regarding the factory trailer sockets. What the deal with the two left and right sockets? I'm assuming they are both identical, just located either side for ease of hookup with various trailer configs?

[jonesy63]

Just thought I'd ask the question regarding the factory trailer sockets. What the deal with the two left and right sockets? I'm assuming they are both identical, just located either side for ease of hookup with various trailer configs?

No - there's only one left and right socket! :p:D

The white one is used in UK to charge caravans on the road,etc and the black one is for signals/brakes/etc. We only use the black one -usually via an adapter to 7 pin flat, which is seems to be getting close to standard on box trailers.

You can also get the white plug and wire up to an Anderson plug or C-tek "Comfort connector" - to charge battery/batteries without needing to have bonnet open.

[LandyAndy]

In another thread I read that you must have a load circuit if using LED trailer lights on a D4.
My question regards the MY14 update,the salesman says not required,when introduced to the Service Manager,the salesman asked the question,I was told not an issue on this D4 by the service manager too,can anybody confirm this???? Both my camper trailer and boat trailers run LEDs,the garden trailer is old school.
Cheers
Andrew

[Meken]

In another thread I read that you must have a load circuit if using LED trailer lights on a D4.
My question regards the MY14 update,the salesman says not required,when introduced to the Service Manager,the salesman asked the question,I was told not an issue on this D4 by the service manager too,can anybody confirm this???? Both my camper trailer and boat trailers run LEDs,the garden trailer is old school.
Cheers
Andrew


Easy to check - plug in the trailer and indicate left or right - if you see the trailer icon flashing in unison with indicator you probably don't need a "module" or throw it in reverse and listen if the parking sensors are going off seeing the trailer or quiet

[LandyAndy]

Easy to check - plug in the trailer and indicate left or right - if you see the trailer icon flashing in unison with indicator you probably don't need a "module" or throw it in reverse and listen if the parking sensors are going off seeing the trailer or quiet

Cheers Meken.
Easy check as the camper trailer and D4 live very close in the shed,I bought a converter plug the other week so I can try it out.
Would apperciate advice from those that know as the other thread mentioned different regulation to the gearbox and trailer sway control when the ECU senses a trailer is hitched up;););););)
Thanks
Andrew

[Clelo]

You mentioned turning on the lights as a test
I just hooked up my first trailer since buying a 2010 RRS and found that when the lights came on the trailer brakes locked up
Luckily this happened at low speed
Is this a common issue?
I will pull the plug out over the weekend to see why as the wiring is standard on all three trailers I have and they all worked on other vehicles previously so I assume there is an issue with the RRS wiring

[Meken]

You mentioned turning on the lights as a test
I just hooked up my first trailer since buying a 2010 RRS and found that when the lights came on the trailer brakes locked up
Luckily this happened at low speed
Is this a common issue?
I will pull the plug out over the weekend to see why as the wiring is standard on all three trailers I have and they all worked on other vehicles previously so I assume there is an issue with the RRS wiring



Yes If you search here you'll find stuff.
LR don't wire up the trailer plug to Australian standards. They wire up for left & right tail lights ( uk setup apparently) so use the pin we use for electric trailer brakes for one of the tail light circuits (pin 5 from memory). Hence turn on the lights and bam on go the brakes.

If you search for a post by sneigy you should find install instructions based on d3 - maybe ask him if RRS is different . Maybe only the loom colours but I doubt it.

[Basil135]

Cheers Meken.
Easy check as the camper trailer and D4 live very close in the shed,I bought a converter plug the other week so I can try it out.
Would apperciate advice from those that know as the other thread mentioned different regulation to the gearbox and trailer sway control when the ECU senses a trailer is hitched up;););););)
Thanks
Andrew

Not sure if the MY14 needs the module or not, but with the MY13 that I have, as soon as the car knows there is a trailer attached this is what happens:

Trailer symbol flashes on the dash in time with the indicators
Trailer stability assist program is activated
Reverse sensors are disabled
Shift points in the gearbox are fine tuned to compensate for extra load


I built my own box using a couple of resistors, a plug & socket. Works well on every trailer that I have used it with.

[Meken]

Yes I believe the d4 doesn't need the relay as well as the resistors because the canbus pwm was redesigned for the led lights in the car. Prior to LEDs in the car the canbus sent low voltage pulses (3 -4 volts) to detect blown globes. The low voltage wouldn't make the filament globe illuminate but would show resistance to the system so it knew the globes were fine. Bring on LEDs and the voltage of the pulses is enough to illuminate the LEDs so you get the twinkling. The modules incorporate a relay in addition to the resistors - resistor gives the resistance required for the car to recognise "globes" (thus believing a trailer is connected) the relay then serves to stall the low voltage pulses and only close when true 12v comes down the circuit (the low volts pwm won't close the 12v relay) so that stops the twinkling. The D4s only pulse the circuits on drivers door being closed I believe so the relay is not required because there is not the constant pulsing so no twinkling. Hope that clarifies it

[ADMIRAL]

Yes I believe the d4 doesn't need the relay as well as the resistors because the canbus pwm was redesigned for the led lights in the car. Prior to LEDs in the car the canbus sent low voltage pulses (3 -4 volts) to detect blown globes. The low voltage wouldn't make the filament globe illuminate but would show resistance to the system so it knew the globes were fine. Bring on LEDs and the voltage of the pulses is enough to illuminate the LEDs so you get the twinkling. The modules incorporate a relay in addition to the resistors - resistor gives the resistance required for the car to recognise "globes" (thus believing a trailer is connected) the relay then serves to stall the low voltage pulses and only close when true 12v comes down the circuit (the low volts pwm won't close the 12v relay) so that stops the twinkling. The D4s only pulse the circuits on drivers door being closed I believe so the relay is not required because there is not the constant pulsing so no twinkling. Hope that clarifies it

Yes, and you don't need to put a resistor into both trafficator/indicator circuits. Get yourself an LED resistor ( Narva are about $18.00 at Repco ) Wire it into one side. They get bloody hot. I have mine mounted to the A frame of the caravan . On start up the D4 will detect the resistance, and enable/disable all appropriate circuits & programs. The trailer icon will only show when the indicator with the resistor is activated, but everything else does work fine and when it should

[discotwinturbo]

Yes, and you don't need to put a resistor into both trafficator/indicator circuits. Get yourself an LED resistor ( Narva are about $18.00 at Repco ) Wire it into one side. They get bloody hot. I have mine mounted to the A frame of the caravan . On start up the D4 will detect the resistance, and enable/disable all appropriate circuits & programs. The trailer icon will only show when the indicator with the resistor is activated, but everything else does work fine and when it should

I purchased a couple of these resistors and wired one in parallel on two trailers driver side indicator......and to date none have worked. Have checked, and rechecked, left it for a month or so, then tried again....yet still I cannot get the resistor to cause the trailer lights to work.

Pulse buster works fine.

I must be doing something wrong.

And I do all my own wiring on all of my cars, always working well.....but this has got me beat.

Brett.....

[Ferret]

LR don't wire up the trailer plug to Australian standards. They wire up for left & right tail lights ( uk setup apparently) so use the pin we use for electric trailer brakes for one of the tail light circuits (pin 5 from memory). Hence turn on the lights and bam on go the brakes.

Are you sure? Trailer manufacturer ask me what plug I wanted on my trailer. I said 'large round'. I imagine he wired the trailer plug up to Australian standards. Works fine with my D4.

[LandyAndy]

Yes I believe the d4 doesn't need the relay as well as the resistors because the canbus pwm was redesigned for the led lights in the car. Prior to LEDs in the car the canbus sent low voltage pulses (3 -4 volts) to detect blown globes. The low voltage wouldn't make the filament globe illuminate but would show resistance to the system so it knew the globes were fine. Bring on LEDs and the voltage of the pulses is enough to illuminate the LEDs so you get the twinkling. The modules incorporate a relay in addition to the resistors - resistor gives the resistance required for the car to recognise "globes" (thus believing a trailer is connected) the relay then serves to stall the low voltage pulses and only close when true 12v comes down the circuit (the low volts pwm won't close the 12v relay) so that stops the twinkling. The D4s only pulse the circuits on drivers door being closed I believe so the relay is not required because there is not the constant pulsing so no twinkling. Hope that clarifies it

On delivery I was told that LED trailer lights were not an issue with my D4.
Andrew

[Meken]

Have you tried your trAiler yet andrew? Or are you too busy driving the car still?

[Basil135]

I purchased a couple of these resistors and wired one in parallel on two trailers driver side indicator......and to date none have worked. Have checked, and rechecked, left it for a month or so, then tried again....yet still I cannot get the resistor to cause the trailer lights to work.

Pulse buster works fine.

I must be doing something wrong.

And I do all my own wiring on all of my cars, always working well.....but this has got me beat.

Brett.....

Might be your problem, right there.

On mine, the leads from the resistor make the only connection for the RHS indicator circuit. So, from the plug, into the box, and then to the socket, that the trailer plug goes into.

Remember, electricity is lazy. It takes the path of least resistance, and so, if you have it in parallel, the resistor isn't doing anything.

[discotwinturbo]

Might be your problem, right there. On mine, the leads from the resistor make the only connection for the RHS indicator circuit. So, from the plug, into the box, and then to the socket, that the trailer plug goes into. Remember, electricity is lazy. It takes the path of least resistance, and so, if you have it in parallel, the resistor isn't doing anything.

Okay. So cut the indicator cable on the trailer and place resistor in series ?

Brett....

[RickO]

Firstly, thank you for this thread as it appears as though I might very well be several hundred dollars better off due to not needing to install a recently purchased LED pulse buster into my new MY14...for those of you that need one for a pre-MY14 keep an eye on the markets section....

So....I've trawled through the very helpful thread initiated by Sniegy and a number of other related ones but still have a question about EBCs, specifically in relation to the power output of the Redarc TowPro that I'm about to attempt installing....

I am clear on the wiring procedure described by Sniegy.

My question concerns the power output of the TowPro, the current rating of the wire needing to be installed from the unit to the rear wiring loom &
the current rating of the D4 wiring between where the wire is spliced in to to pin 5 in the plug.

The TowPro states that the max current of the unit in a 12V setup is 25amps does anyone know if this is the current draw from the battery to the unit - or does this mean that the wiring used to connect to the rear wiring loom also needs to be >= 25 amps?

I'm not clear on this as even if the wiring used to connect to the rear wiring loom also needs to be >= 25 amp, it is my understanding that the actual LR wiring loom that is being tapped into has a max capacity of 15amps.

I have 6mm2 dual core (instantaneous max capacity of 50amp, continuous capacity of around >= 38amps due to heat) but am wondering if this is overkill and if 10-15 amp wire could be used.

Thanks in anticipation.
RickO

[Graeme]

I purchased a couple of these resistors and wired one in parallel on two trailers driver side indicator......and to date none have worked. Have checked, and rechecked, left it for a month or so, then tried again....yet still I cannot get the resistor to cause the trailer lights to work.

Pulse buster works fine.

I must be doing something wrong.

And I do all my own wiring on all of my cars, always working well.....but this has got me beat.

Brett.....
Pulsebuster is not doing all its supposed to as a resistor should not be needed as well unless your vehicle is like mine whereby the resistance of some trailer globes is too high to trigger the indicator.

[Basil135]

Okay. So cut the indicator cable on the trailer and place resistor in series ?

Brett....

Got it in one. Make sure it is in series.

But, as Graeme said, you shouldn't need the Pulsebuster and the resistor, unless you have something quirky.

[SBD4]

Might be your problem, right there.

On mine, the leads from the resistor make the only connection for the RHS indicator circuit. So, from the plug, into the box, and then to the socket, that the trailer plug goes into.

Remember, electricity is lazy. It takes the path of least resistance, and so, if you have it in parallel, the resistor isn't doing anything.

Interesting Basil, all other solutions talk of presenting a lower resistance to the cars circuitry which involves placing a resistor in parallel. LEDs present far greater resistance than the resistor (globe) which is why the issue exists. If wired in parallel, the resistor will allow the correct(increased) current flow on the indicator circuit to enable the cars systems to detect the presence of the trailer. Wiring them in series would not achieve anything I believe.

I would say that Brett is on the right track with the approach he is taking, there must be some other issue.

[Basil135]

Interesting Basil, all other solutions talk of presenting a lower resistance to the cars circuitry which involves placing a resistor in parallel. LEDs present far greater resistance than the resistor (globe) which is why the issue exists. If wired in parallel, the resistor will allow the correct(increased) current flow on the indicator circuit to enable the cars systems to detect the presence of the trailer. Wiring them in series would not achieve anything I believe.

I would say that Brett is on the right track with the approach he is taking, there must be some other issue.

The way I understood it, was that the LED's were not drawing enough for the car to detect a trailer was connected.

By placing the resistor in series, the current draw is increased, which is why it gets hot, and hence, the car see's the trailer connected.

Just had a thought. I have built my box with the resistor in series with the indicator circuit, so that there is no option for the current, but to flow thru the resistor. When people are talking about connecting it in parallel, are they taking one side of the resistor lead to earth, and the other to the active side of the LED? The way I read the original post, I understood it as being in parallel to the indicator wiring, essentially running alongside the normal wire. Which is why it wouldn't be doing anything. Just wondering if this is where the difference is?

[SBD4]

The way I understood it, was that the LED's were not drawing enough for the car to detect a trailer was connected.

By placing the resistor in series, the current draw is increased, which is why it gets hot, and hence, the car see's the trailer connected.

Just had a thought. I have built my box with the resistor in series with the indicator circuit, so that there is no option for the current, but to flow thru the resistor. When people are talking about connecting it in parallel, are they taking one side of the resistor lead to earth, and the other to the active side of the LED? The way I read the original post, I understood it as being in parallel to the indicator wiring, essentially running alongside the normal wire. Which is why it wouldn't be doing anything. Just wondering if this is where the difference is?

Basil, it is opposite to your understanding. Your understanding of series and parallel is correct though your understanding of the difference between the two is incorrect. Resistance in series will reduce current flow but in parallel will increase current flow.

Here's a video that provides an analogy using toll booths to explain parallel and series circuits (I hope I don't come across as being condescending):

Series and Parallel Circuits (Tollbooth Analogy) - YouTube

[discotwinturbo]

Pulsebuster is not doing all its supposed to as a resistor should not be needed as well unless your vehicle is like mine whereby the resistance of some trailer globes is too high to trigger the indicator.

Hi Graeme,

Pulse buster works fine.

I have the same issue on my Touareg so was trying to avoid using my temporary pulse buster that I carry around for it....Disco is hard wired.

But I turned the Disco pulse buster off and then tried the two trailers with the resistor in parallel on the drivers side indicator cable at the rear of the mounted trailer lights and trailer lights don't work....just faint blinking.

The same method is supposed to work with the Touareg but no joy. Both resistors are the narva 12/24 volt ones

So I am doing some thing wrong.....unless I have two failed resistors from the pack which would be unlikely.

Brett...

[SBD4]

Hi Graeme,

Pulse buster works fine.

I have the same issue on my Touareg so was trying to avoid using my temporary pulse buster that I carry around for it....Disco is hard wired.

But I turned the Disco pulse buster off and then tried the two trailers with the resistor in parallel on the drivers side indicator cable at the rear of the mounted trailer lights and trailer lights don't work....just faint blinking.

The same method is supposed to work with the Touareg but no joy. Both resistors are the narva 12/24 volt ones

So I am doing some thing wrong.....unless I have two failed resistors from the pack which would be unlikely.

Brett...
Brett how many Ohms are your resistors?

[discotwinturbo]

Brett how many Ohms are your resistors?

Sean, it's a 21watt led load resistor...don't know the ohms though.

I just saw a pic online showing one side of the resistor on the power going into the lamp, and the other side of the resistor going to the earth wire on the lamp.

I have a wire from resistor diverted off the current line into the lamp, 10cm from the lamp, then the other side of the resistor going back into the current line, 5cm from the lamp.

I think my parallel is in the wrong spot ?

Thanks for your help

Brett...

[SBD4]

Sean, it's a 21watt led load resistor...don't know the ohms though.

I just saw a pic online showing one side of the resistor on the power going into the lamp, and the other side of the resistor going to the earth wire on the lamp.

I have a wire from resistor diverted off the current line into the lamp, 10cm from the lamp, then the other side of the resistor going back into the current line, 5cm from the lamp.

I think my parallel is in the wrong spot ?

Thanks for your help

Brett...

Brett, That is fine, the resistor can be placed anywhere on the +ve and -ve wires as long as it connects to the same wires as the LEDs.

Check if you have the 24V version of the resistor as it will present 4 times the resistance than required for a 12v circuit (27.4 Ohms vs 6.8 ) so may be too high to achieve the result.

[Graeme]

I have a wire from resistor diverted off the current line into the lamp, 10cm from the lamp, then the other side of the resistor going back into the current line, 5cm from the lamp.

I think my parallel is in the wrong spot ?The resistor must be in parallel with the lamp, not the power wire! Think of the resistor as another globe that needs both power and earth to operate.

[SBD4]

The resistor must be in parallel with the lamp, not the power wire! Think of the resistor as another globe that needs both power and earth to operate.

Doh just re-read that. Graeme is right, if you have indeed placed the resistor in parallel with the +ve (or -ve) wire then that is the problem. It will do nothing. As said, make sure the resistor is placed acorss the +ve and Negative connections of the light.

PS I was reading as that was what you had done but done it further up the line away from the light.

[Basil135]

The resistor must be in parallel with the lamp, not the power wire! Think of the resistor as another globe that needs both power and earth to operate.

YES !

This was my thinking, way back up there :angel:

I just didn't articulate it quite right, and was throwing series & parallel around just to mix it up a bit more... :eek:


Listen to Graeme. I will go and look into retirement homes :cool:

[discotwinturbo]

Thanks Basil135, Sean and Graham.....wished I said something online a lonnnng time back.

Will give it a try next weekend, and let you know it's all sorted.

Brett.....

[gghaggis]

Brett,

It's in your GOE booklet, along with values and wiring!

[Graeme]

Whilst I had only a brief read of the Pulsebuster site, I still think it must not be doing its 2nd job of causing the instrument trailer indicator to operate. From what I understood it should not require external load resistors and therefore must either be faulty or incorrectly wired.

[Meken]

Whilst I had only a brief read of the Pulsebuster site, I still think it must not be doing its 2nd job of causing the instrument trailer indicator to operate. From what I understood it should not require external load resistors and therefore must either be faulty or incorrectly wired.


Yes the pulse buster should be solving your problems ... But then they seem to be somewhat vehicle specific (same as led modules ones)

[discotwinturbo]

Brett, It's in your GOE booklet, along with values and wiring!

Found it!

Book is permanently on coffee table....often flick through it, but missed this part.

Brett...

[DiscoFan]

My advice from Sniegy was that the MY14 Disco still needs an LED trailer module to work with LED trailer brakes. He fitted one to my new Disco with a nice little factory switch next to the 12v socket in the cargo area to switch it on and off depending on the trailer I'm towing (LED lights or not).

Yet to hook up the trailer to see how it all works.

[discotwinturbo]

There was a software update about 12-18 months ago for my MY12.

If I have the parkers or driving lights on, the trailer lights up, the brake lights works, but when I use the indicators....both indicators flash on the trailer....but dash light does not show a trailer is connected.

So close....but yet so far.

Brett.....

[Ferret]

Are the reverse sensors disabled?

[Graeme]

There was a software update about 12-18 months ago for my MY12.

If I have the parkers or driving lights on, the trailer lights up, the brake lights works, but when I use the indicators....both indicators flash on the trailer....but dash light does not show a trailer is connected.
How does that compare with before the s/w update?

[stikman]

Hi All,
Just hooked up my box trailer with LED lights to my new MY14 D4 and it does not appear to recognize it, no trailer symbol when indicating and reverse sensors remains active. I might shoot an email to the dealer and ask them what they think should occur. My Jayco has normal lights so that should be OK but I need to arrange a EBC before I tow that.

Andy,
Let me know if you experience anything different to this.

Thanks all.

[LandyAndy]

Hi All,
Just hooked up my box trailer with LED lights to my new MY14 D4 and it does not appear to recognize it, no trailer symbol when indicating and reverse sensors remains active. I might shoot an email to the dealer and ask them what they think should occur. My Jayco has normal lights so that should be OK but I need to arrange a EBC before I tow that.

Andy,
Let me know if you experience anything different to this.

Thanks all.

Will go down the shed now and see.
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Philippe.
Just tried mine.
Same result as you.
It seems we do need a load sensor on the MY14 D4.
I asked the question on delivery,salesman wasnt sure,he asked the service manager and he said not required.
Andrew

[stikman]

Thanks Andrew, appreciated.

[LandyAndy]

Thanks Andrew, appreciated.

Let me know what your dealer says,I have to go to Perth next weekend,will call in and quiz them.Let you know.
Not happy about having to modify the wiring to suit.
Andrew

[DiscoFan]

Philippe.
Just tried mine.
Same result as you.
It seems we do need a load sensor on the MY14 D4.
I asked the question on delivery,salesman wasnt sure,he asked the service manager and he said not required.
Andrew

I had the LED trailer module installed pre delivery, with a nice little switch to turn on and off as required.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1355.jpg (http://s82.photobucket.com/user/triby1/media/Disco/photo.jpg.html)

[Meken]

Remember the d 4 sends the pulse upon driver door closing (I think it's close only) so you need to plug in trailer then open & close driver door - I think with the d4 you only 1 of those 21w resistor things wired in parallel between an (1) indicator & the earth - but trailer icon flashes on side of resistor - do a search and there are blokes who have posted about doing it this way

[LandyAndy]

Remember the d 4 sends the pulse upon driver door closing (I think it's close only) so you need to plug in trailer then open & close driver door - I think with the d4 you only 1 of those 21w resistor things wired in parallel between an (1) indicator & the earth - but trailer icon flashes on side of resistor - do a search and there are blokes who have posted about doing it this way

Will double check tommorow as I did leave the door open whilst doing the test.
Andrew

[stikman]

Mine was with door open, door closed, while driving, after stopping at the shop etc etc same the entire time.

[LandyAndy]

Double checked mine this morning.Dosnt recoknise the trailer.
Andrew

[Meken]

Resistor needed!

[cjc_td5]

Let me know what your dealer says,I have to go to Perth next weekend,will call in and quiz them.Let you know.
Not happy about having to modify the wiring to suit.
Andrew

Andy, I have posted a question in the following thread about wiring in of a load resistor to my MY14 D4.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2220731#post2220731

Probably should be having LED load resistor discussions in the other thread to keep things in the same location??:angel:

[stikman]

Response from dealer was as expected, some have had success with adapter plugs but more then likely need something wired in. I had not asked prior so no issue in not being advised. I will look at options [emoji2]

[LandyAndy]

Response from dealer was as expected, some have had success with adapter plugs but more then likely need something wired in. I had not asked prior so no issue in not being advised. I will look at options [emoji2]

Im seeing my dealer thismorning.I dont expect much if any help.Decided to buy the Linear Electronics in-line adaptor as fitted by Sniegy.I wont be hard wiring it,will get the plugged version.

Linear Electronic Design | Home (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/)

Andrew

[LandyAndy]

I spoke to the salesman and the service dpt yesterday.They were totaly unaware that a LED equiped trailer will not activate the trailer stability programme etc.They thought it may be a problem with my D4 and offered to get it looked at.Told them they ALL have the issue along with other manufacturers.
Even explained how the vehicle recoknises the trailer.
They tell me they will talk to Land Rover and get back to me.
Andrew

[Ferret]

Dealers, they live in vacuum. Must think their customers never talk to each other about their product :D

I'm jack of getting requests to complete customer satisfaction surveys from them when all they need to do is get on here and start interacting with their customers to learn something about them and their own products.

[LandyAndy]

Ive sent an email to Land Rover customer support.
See how it goes.
Andrew

[discotwinturbo]

Well after almost a year, and with some extra help from Sean (SBD4), I finally have all my trailers working without a pulse buster.

30 mins max for each trailer. I went with a 21w load resistor for each indicator on each trailer. With one, I still had a small blink on the indicator not fitted with a resistor, when the other indicator was lit.

At this stage the are screwed to the trailer a-frame with a metal shroud. Sean has given me a few ideas if I wish to take this further in building a box to house them.

The Touareg is a little smarter than the Disco and still tells me that parkers and brake lights were not working (a temporary load resistor on each of these circuits cured that, but removed as no biggy)

I now have both cars that no longer need their own pulse busters, and also no forgetful wife not hitting the switch. Might have to put these pulse busters on the market.

Thanks guys.

Brett.....

[LandyAndy]

Brett.
Was your good lady dragging a horse palace down Albany Hwy towards Albany on friday morning???
I did wave to a flash looking D4;);););).
Andrew

[discotwinturbo]

Hi Andrew,

Not her this time. Last time out was Thursday.

Plenty of clients see our float out and about....it's hard to miss with triple axles, 7 metres long, and my business livery all over it.

Brett....