Defender 130 Project

[Nugg]

I thought I’d use this post as a record of the work I do to my truck.

Firstly some background - other than a few very early V8 petrol Range Rovers, I’ve never owned a Land Rover, in fact I’d never sat in one until I bought this 130 a few days ago.

It is a 1997 300TDi Defender 130 extended cab with 220,00klm on it.
Extras include a MaxiDrive rear locker, snorkel, winch capable bull bar, front and rear diff guards, 2nd 85lt tank and bigger tyres.
It has just had new discs and rotors all round and a new clutch.
The body has some dints and there is a small patch of rust behind the seat.

Firstly a few observations as a Defender virgin.
For a big truck it feels surprisingly cramped inside - I think it is because you sit so close to the doors.
Power output was a little surprising - I’m comparing it to a 4.2lt HZ1 80 series custom ute that I’m replacing.
1st gear seems a little taller, second and third seem to have a bit more get up and go once the turbo kicks in.
I think it also holds on going up hills a little better - especially if you get a bit of a run up.
Fuel consumption was also surprising.
Driving it from Sydney to Brisbane yesterday I filled it up, reset the odometer to zero, drove till it was empty and filled it again - I travelled 800 klm and put 70 litres in it.
I was also surprised at the seats - they look basic and simple but after 10hrs driving I was pleasantly surprised - I wasn’t aching like I’d done a few rounds with Mohammed Ali.

Now for the peculiarities of this particular beast.
I haven’t found them yet but somewhere in that cab is a flock of canaries.
I’ve never heard so much whistling and chirping in a truck in my life.
A closer look and I can see the door rubbers have been repaired many times and there is no rubber along the bottom of the door - I can see the road whizzing by!
I’m sure that can be fixed - I’ll look into to a rubber door seal kit to fit - it definitely needs one.

I’m also pretty sure someone is trapped inside the engine with a little hammer trying to get out.
I know nothing about Land Rover motors except where they are - under the bonnet - but to me it sounds top end - one noisy lifter.
It also has a few oil leaks but nothing major - I think they are factory issued.

The steering is entertaining - a Dream World scary ride type of entertaining.
At 100 kmh I can rock the steering wheel 2 inches either side on centre with no effect on the direction I’m going.
I think I can also feel a slight clunk through the steering column when going over speed bumps slowly.
Nothing money and time wont fix!

The gearbox makes some interesting noises... At 100klm it has a slight high pitch whine under acceleration - I can almost play a tune with some careful on and off throttle feathering.
Sounds a bit like bagpipe music being played backwards.
It also makes some clunky noises if you change gears a little roughly.
There is also a slight scraping feel as I depress the clutch pedal .
I have no idea what system the Defender use but it feels like either the pedal itself is scraping the firewall or the throwout bearing is dry etc.
I’ll add that one to the list of too do’s.

The speedo is almost 10klh out by my phone GPS.
The truck has Cooper STT 265 / 75 / 16 tyres on it.
If anything I would have thought this combination would be larger diameter than standard which to my pea brain suggested the speedo would be out in the other direction.
They also seem to make a lot of road noise as well.
I think the tread pattern is a bit overkill for me - I don’t do any hard core off roading.
I drive around puddles and mud - been there done that now I just want to get where I’m going dry, clean and in one piece.
My main use will be as a camper for beach and some semi difficult dirt tracks.

On the electrical issues... - quite a few dash lights don’t work, the wiper control arm has several position that do nothing, I’m sure that’s not normal and the indicator switch flashes several unrelated dash lights on and off which makes me feel young again - disco dance fever!

Where do I start the repairs...
My mates have suggested I sell it quickly before their LandCruisers catch something off it - I’m going to persevere.

This is not my first 4wd project - they usually turn out great, only the dollar value to make that happen varies!

I’d love to get some opinions / feedback / ideas - as I said, although I’ve had 4x4s for more than 35 years, this is my first Land Rover so need all the help I can get.
I think I’ll start with the steering, probably leave the motor noise and gearbox for the time being as I have always dreamed of a 130 with an Isuzu in it - probably cost prohibitive but I’ll explore that path before I spend money on this motor and gearbox.

Dave

[jboot51]

Gidday dave,


Sounds like all your issues are just standard for a defender of that age.
Steering is probably just tie rods and drop arm ball joint wear.
Could be the spline on the steering shaft universal as well.


Clunks on take off, it's all in the technique mostly but could be spline wear on the drive flanges.
The rear A-frame ball joint can also make noises if worn.


If your on the southside you should swing by for a chat.
I'm in the middle of rebushing a D1 tomorrow

[BigBlackDog]

Hi Dave.

Your top end noise could just be tappets, they need tweaking on a regular basis to stay in spec.

The steering will be bushings, tie rods etc. my 130 is exactly the same, is the next to do job. Give the steering uni joints a look under the bonnet, pull the shaft to feel for any play. They might just be loose bolts or need new UJs.

Speedos are by law required to overread, that seems to be the figure land rover picked for the defenders. Those tyres are as close to standard diameter as near enough doesn't matter. Remember too, phone gps has no certification, same with in car navigators. Although usually really accurate there is not guarantee of such, I certainly wouldn't use if in court ad a defence to speeding!

I don't understand that whole "land rovers are complete piles of ..." anger that seems to inflict other brand owners. I have been seeing it on Facebook a lot on the generic 4wd sites, it's not even in fun,, these people have genuine hatred. Sad. Every brand has its issues, trucks like these get tough lives, land rovers are enjoyable to drive, lots of soul. Good luck with it!

[Nugg]

Gidday dave,


Sounds like all your issues are just standard for a defender of that age.
Steering is probably just tie rods and drop arm ball joint wear.
Could be the spline on the steering shaft universal as well.


Clunks on take off, it's all in the technique mostly but could be spline wear on the drive flanges.
The rear A-frame ball joint can also make noises if worn.


If your on the southside you should swing by for a chat.
I'm in the middle of rebushing a D1 tomorrow

Thanks all for the advice - I'm at Beenleigh - send me a PM with your details and I'll see if I can drop by with it - need all the help / advise I can get!

[Wallaby Ted]

Hi Dave,

If you are after some more information try coming to one of the clubs in Brisbane, being at Beenleigh you could either look at the Brisbane or Gold Coast clubs.

The meeting for the Brisbane Club is tomorrow night at the Lions Hall, Muriel Ave Moorooka starting at 7:30pm.

People will start arriving at 7pm if you want to have a chat outside and look at some of the vehicles.


thanks

Richard

[Nugg]

Hi Dave,

If you are after some more information try coming to one of the clubs in Brisbane, being at Beenleigh you could either look at the Brisbane or Gold Coast clubs.

The meeting for the Brisbane Club is tomorrow night at the Lions Hall, Muriel Ave Moorooka starting at 7:30pm.

People will start arriving at 7pm if you want to have a chat outside and look at some of the vehicles.


thanks

Richard

Thanks Richard - I'll try and do that.
Appreciate your help

Dave

[Nugg]

Dropped over to Tony’s place (Jboot51) today so he could have a look at the Defender - big thank you Tony - much appreciate your help.
One obvious thing Tony noticed was the fan belt was shredded - hanging on by threads.
Now I think about it - the previous owner told me he had just replaced it so how did a drive from Sydney to Brisbane in one day shred the belt?
We put Tony’s spare on and it started to shred it in only a few Klm drive.

On closer inspection, it appears the alternator pulley does not line up with the rest of the pulleys.
I can’t feel any wear in the mounting or in the pulley or bearing so can only assume it something to do with the mounting, pulley placement or the wrong alternator.
Appears to be the later model small pulley like the Discos have.
I’ve added a few close up photos - can someone confirm that the spacers are in the right place?
The photos look a bit deceptive but the alternator pulley is set back closer to the block so shifting the spacer from the rear of the bolt to the front would push the alternator out and make it line up better.

Anyone have a suggestion as to the cause?

Thanks

Dave

[Wicks89]

Yeah she looks a bit off! See if you can get a part number off it and check it against the catalogue for Ashdown Ingram or someone with your VIN. Or just play with the spacers til it all lines up. Can be a real pain in the arse, but that may be why someone else hasnt done the right thing last time if they had it off. (Near enough is good enough I'm selling this bastard of a thing anyway, etc).

Lucky spot. The TDI's are pretty solid otherwise, so good buy. I read in your opening chat that you thought the STT's were pretty noisy. I have a mate with a brand new FJ cruiser with STT's and by GOD they're loud. Even with all the fancy shmancy insulation etc that is truck has its so loud. He found the same thing with Maxxis 764's.
I run the ubiquitous 255/85r16 BGF KM2's that so many deefers run, speedo was correct in my TDI and my TD5, and I'd say quieter, my theory is becuse the two aforementioned tyres have a very square rolling surface, by that I mean if you look at them head-on they seem a lot more square than my narrower tyres of same height and similar tread. You may go AT's etc but just throwing in my two cents worth on the STT's.

In my 130 DC I have a drainage policy, water will always get it (It's the NT so water over the bonnet frequently) so I just make sure it escapes. So with your door seals on the bottom, make sure you dont effect those silly little drain holes and cause/exacerbate the standard defender door frame rust.

Anyway, my two cents worth. Enjoy!

[Nugg]

Yeah she looks a bit off! See if you can get a part number off it and check it against the catalogue for Ashdown Ingram or someone with your VIN. Or just play with the spacers til it all lines up. Can be a real pain in the arse, but that may be why someone else hasnt done the right thing last time if they had it off. (Near enough is good enough I'm selling this bastard of a thing anyway, etc).

Lucky spot. The TDI's are pretty solid otherwise, so good buy. I read in your opening chat that you thought the STT's were pretty noisy. I have a mate with a brand new FJ cruiser with STT's and by GOD they're loud. Even with all the fancy shmancy insulation etc that is truck has its so loud. He found the same thing with Maxxis 764's.
I run the ubiquitous 255/85r16 BGF KM2's that so many deefers run, speedo was correct in my TDI and my TD5, and I'd say quieter, my theory is becuse the two aforementioned tyres have a very square rolling surface, by that I mean if you look at them head-on they seem a lot more square than my narrower tyres of same height and similar tread. You may go AT's etc but just throwing in my two cents worth on the STT's.

In my 130 DC I have a drainage policy, water will always get it (It's the NT so water over the bonnet frequently) so I just make sure it escapes. So with your door seals on the bottom, make sure you dont effect those silly little drain holes and cause/exacerbate the standard defender door frame rust.

Anyway, my two cents worth. Enjoy!

Thanks - the 255/85r16 BGF KM2 look like just as aggressive tread pattern, hard to understand why they would be quieter.
I have a current model FJ Cruiser as my daily driver - wish I could get the Defender that quiet!
I'll probably see if I can do a swap with someone for an AT style tire with similar wear or sell these - I think they will just chew up the beach.
What is more important to me is strong side walls - spiking them is my main cause of tire trouble.
Dave

[Meherio]

If you want quiet than have a look a Goodyear wrangler silent armour. I had km2's on my td5 defender and ran the radio at 23 to hear, pull up at a stop sign turn the radio down, 500m down the road turn the radio back up. Now run the radio on 16 all the time maybe 19 on the highway to drown out the transfer box whine.

[Nugg]

If you want quiet than have a look a Goodyear wrangler silent armour. I had km2's on my td5 defender and ran the radio at 23 to hear, pull up at a stop sign turn the radio down, 500m down the road turn the radio back up. Now run the radio on 16 all the time maybe 19 on the highway to drown out the transfer box whine.

Thanks - will look into them

[Nugg]

I pulled the alternator out today - there are no markings on it other than 'BAF0812L17' which when Googled showed up nothing.

The problem with shredding belts is because the alternator pulley does not line up with the rest of the pulleys - it is about 5mm set back closer to the block.
I took the pulley off the alternator but pretty sure it is correct.
There is a sleeve in the rear top mount that is half in / half out of the mount so I pushed it back flush with the front edge of the mount and put a spacer in the front mounting point which set the alternator forward 4mm.
The other lower mounting point seems to line up with the spacer in - it may have been a bit off before - I didn't check it.

Is this the wrong alternator or is there supposed to be spacers to align it?

I'd like it to be another mm or so over as it is still 'just' aligned with the other pulleys but it is working although I'm calling this a temporary fix until I work out why or how.

The photo shows (as well as my thumb) the alternator top mount with the sleeve pocking out the back and the 2 spacer washers on the front mount.

Dave

[gusthedog]

That photo also shows a knackered hose :D

[Nugg]

That photo also shows a knackered hose :D

Full set of new hoses and gaskets on their way from Paddocks.
This is not my daily driver - it's my fishing / shooting truck and is semi off the road while I do it up.

[wrinklearthur]

The problem with shredding belts is because the alternator pulley does not line up with the rest of the pulleys - it is about 5mm set back closer to the block.

Is this the wrong alternator or is there supposed to be spacers to align it?

Hi Dave

What year is your Defender and has it the original engine in it, we can then work out which is the correct alternator / pulley combination ?

I have found that 4 mm difference that chewed the belts!

This was found out when I tried a spare 65 amp off a early Defender ( 1994 ) 300 TDi engine onto a 1997 300 TDi engine in a Discovery, that mismatch has now been corrected and the correct 100 amp alternator fitted since.

The difference is in the distance of where the pulley sits to the inside mounting face of the front lug on the alternator casing, the timing case case mounting points are in the same position on both the early and later 300 TDi's.

The larger diameter pulley that is normally fitted to the early 65 amp alternator lines up with the standard 300 TDi arrangement, its when the smaller diameter pulley for the later engines is fitted to that alternator, this distance becomes a problem.

Also with the smaller diameter pulley, it needs a shorter serpentine belt to match it.
.

[Nugg]

Hi Dave

What year is your Defender and has it the original engine in it, we can then work out which is the correct alternator / pulley combination ?

I have found that 4 mm difference that chewed the belts!

This was found out when I tried a spare 65 amp off a early Defender ( 1994 ) 300 TDi engine onto a 1997 300 TDi engine in a Discovery, that mismatch has now been corrected and the correct 100 amp alternator fitted since.

The difference is in the distance of where the pulley sits to the inside mounting face of the front lug on the alternator casing, the timing case case mounting points are in the same position on both the early and later 300 TDi's.

The larger diameter pulley that is normally fitted to the early 65 amp alternator lines up with the standard 300 TDi arrangement, its when the smaller diameter pulley for the later engines is fitted to that alternator, this distance becomes a problem.

Also with the smaller diameter pulley, it needs a shorter serpentine belt to match it.
.

Thanks for your input - it's starting to make sense.
The Defender is a 1997 and has the small pulley, which I think is correct for this model.
I don't know if it is the original alternator - I think a 65amp is standard?
Googling 300dti alternators shows a lot of different casing designs.

Dave

[Nugg]

While waiting for some mechanical parts to arrive I decided to fix the broken radio antenna today.
One thing led to another and... well the photo sort of explains where I'm at now - I sort of got carried away.

Dash was cracked, binnacle broken, dash lights were intermittent, the heater slides didn't work and it rattled.
I have full confidence it will all go back in there and work...!

http://www.nuggetoutdoors.com.au/images/130/dash 3.jpg

[PTC]

Looks similar to mine. I didnt strip it back that far though
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/130630-what-did-you-do-your-landy-today-273.html#post2221851

I bought a new Binnacle mount from APT Fabrications. It arrived pretty quick and was a perfect fit. Its amazing now how much stronger the dash feels. When sliding the heater vent up it doesn't flex or feel like it will break off at all anymore.

[Nugg]

Looks similar to mine. I didnt strip it back that far though
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/130630-what-did-you-do-your-landy-today-273.html#post2221851

I bought a new Binnacle mount from APT Fabrications. It arrived pretty quick and was a perfect fit. Its amazing now how much stronger the dash feels. When sliding the heater vent up it doesn't flex or feel like it will break off at all anymore.

When I bought the ute it came with an uninstalled metal binnacle and a much better condition gauge pod - that's going in as well.
While I've got it in pieces I'm also fixing the heater slide.
I removed it today and to get a better look at it I drilled out the two rivets holding the slide in place.
I cleaned and re tentioned the contacts, the main slide contact is a drop in brass shaft (you can see the hole where it drops in to in the photo - in line with the shaft) - be careful if you go this far into it as it will drop out - I was lucky I found it on the shed floor!
Came up like a new one - will install it tomorrow.

PS - also picked up a 100 amp alternator for $100 off Fleabay - will look at measurements and alignment on it in the next few days as well.

http://www.nuggetoutdoors.com.au/images/130/dash 4.jpg

[dromader driver]

good to see you have appreciated some of the aged defender design features. while your at it,

put sewing machine oil down the actuator cables for the heater. stops siezing and corrosion.

check the drain on the heater inlet box. it's probably full of crap. give the fan a flick while your at it to ensure it isn't siezed.

self draining doors are a design feature. water in water out.
soak the fuses in some sort of corrosion preventer. check any electrical faults in this area with electrical contact cleaner

use a straight edge across the pulleys on the alternator. Repco do funny size belts if there is a length mismatch due to pulley size. mine has an aftermarket alternator. next time it gets a ford/bosch alternator.

[Nugg]

As mentioned the alternator that came with the truck had no markings on it but I think a 65amp hr - it was chewing belts because the pulley didn't line up with the rest.
I picked up a 100a/h alternator and fitted that - issue now resolved.

I've taken a photo of the two alternators side by side with the pulleys on a flat surface.
As you can see the 100a/h unit has a thicker mount and therefore shifts the pulley alignment.
Maybe a trap to watch out for if you're changing alternators.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1067.jpg

[Nugg]

While waiting for more parts to arrive from the UK I decided to get stuck into the interior.
Removed all the interior lining, cleaned and painted it in vinyl paint.
Lined the roof with 10mm Formshield where it would fit and 5mm in other places.
Starting to put it back together now.
Some photos during the job - will post a fished photo when I have it finished - It's beer O'clock now.

PS - That's not rust, it is some sort of mastic sealer gunk

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/821.jpg




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/822.jpg

[ntguy]

Old Post.....

It amazes me that people start projects, put things up and disappear??? Makes you wonder what happen, its like having a cold beer that goes warm halve way having a drink....