View Full Version : Here we go
Steve in Cairns
6th September 2014, 07:08 PM
I made a start on Peggy today.  Managed to get the engine out with a little help from my brother and google.  Only hitch was that the rear bracket for lifting the engine was missing is I had to make use of a couple of tie down straps.83318
83318
Steve in Cairns
6th September 2014, 07:13 PM
O.K I need to workout how to put photos on here
cookey
6th September 2014, 07:14 PM
wish my engine was so light that it had to be chained down like that.
Cookey
Steve in Cairns
7th September 2014, 04:31 PM
...
Steve in Cairns
7th September 2014, 04:34 PM
Started the morning off in a positive mood.
Cleaned the engine, not sure why I have two different colours on the engine block, any suggestions?
 Then I hit a problem.  I cant get the  bolts (6) that hold the clutch cover onto the rear of the fly wheel.
I have managed to loosen 2 but the other 4 are staying firm.  Lots of WD40 and swearing didn't help.  I ground down the side if one of my sockets to try and get it sitting flush with the cover plate but it still isn't sitting flush.
This puts pay to my notion of getting the engine in bits this weekend so I could order the parts ready for the holiday.
Steve in Cairns
8th September 2014, 06:56 PM
I WISH
SII Josh
8th September 2014, 07:56 PM
thanks for sharing your project, will help out with suggestions if and when i can
chazza
9th September 2014, 08:21 AM
Then I hit a problem.  I cant get the  bolts (6) that hold the clutch cover onto the rear of the fly wheel.
Will a cranked ring spanner fit?
If the sockets are physically too big, try sockets of a smaller drive size e.g. 3/8" drive,
Cheers Charlie
Steve in Cairns
9th September 2014, 07:02 PM
I have found a thing in a random tool box that attaches to my socket that I then hit with a hammer, This causes the socket to turn 1/4 turn. Should I try this or could it cause more damage?
chazza
10th September 2014, 07:33 AM
It sounds as if it is an impact driver. If it is turning the bolts to the left then it will be fine; if it turns to the right. you should be able to reverse the direction by pushing the end of the tool down, whilst at the same time turning it,
Cheers C
Steve in Cairns
15th September 2014, 10:02 AM
Finally got the nuts off the clutch cover plate, so happy.  Next weekend I will start to strip the engine down.
Steve in Cairns
22nd September 2014, 07:46 PM
Finally got the engine o the stand ready for the strip.  Plan to start tomorrow.  There are two different colours, one light one dark green, if I was a knowledgable man what would this tell me?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=84334&d=1411382584
67hardtop
22nd September 2014, 09:21 PM
That the head has been off sometime in the past and may have been replaced/reconditioned??? Maybe the engine has been worked on/rebuilt/reconditioned?? Who knows...lol??? Pull it apart and go over it check it over you might have a real gem there????:D:D:D
 
 
Cheers Rod:wasntme:
Steve in Cairns
23rd September 2014, 12:32 AM
I was guessing that the block had had some work done on it in the past, but they went to the trouble of fitting the expansion plugs after painting but not to the trouble of painting it the same colour as the rest of the engine????
Steve in Cairns
23rd September 2014, 07:02 PM
Finally got a good chunk of time to work on the engine today and had the added help from my dad.
Got the head off and found that all four had a lot of carbod deposit on them.  Poured petrol into each, three were great but the fourth leaked slowly so something to soprt out there.
Took the timing chain and gears off and had a good look, they seemed almost new, the same with the oil pump.  The cilinders have no ridges or grooves just a little carbon at the top.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=84411&d=1411466287
What d I do now?  It seemes clear that the enging had some major work done on it recently in therms of km, should I continue stripping or leave it and put her back togeather?
The second question is that I assume that the eight smaller holes along the side of the cilinders should have something in them.  They are currently empty, what should be in there?
Cheers
Steve
chazza
23rd September 2014, 07:40 PM
...should I continue stripping or leave it and put her back togeather?
The second question is that I assume that the eight smaller holes along the side of the cilinders should have something in them.  They are currently empty, what should be in there?
Cheers
Steve
It looks as if the cam-followers have been taken out for some reason, all eight of them! 
Strip the entire engine and see what else is wrong; it may only need a gasket set and some new followers, given your description of the rest of the engine,
Cheers Charlie
67hardtop
23rd September 2014, 09:15 PM
If you carefully scrape the carbon deposits off the top of the pistons there may be some writing stamped in the top of them. this will denote that the motor may have been bored and oversize pistons etc fitted. if no stamped lettering then it may still be standard bore. The 8 smaller holes have roller cam followers inside of them secured by a bolt through the same side of the block. The bolts are there to secure the cam followers and to stop them rotating as they are fitted with rollers on the bottom that stay in contact with the camshaft. you need to remove the cam follower bolts and followers before you remove the camshaft if you're going down that track. Petrol leaking past the piston rings is no big drama unless it disappears really quickly. Buy yourself an original land rover workshop manual parts 1 & 2 for series 2 2a. They are available from time to time on ebay. Its better than the Haynes manual. Hope this helps.
 
Cheers Rod:wasntme:
JDNSW
24th September 2014, 05:23 AM
........ Buy yourself an original land rover workshop manual parts 1 & 2 for series 2 2a. They are available from time to time on ebay. Its better than the Haynes manual. Hope this helps.
 
Cheers Rod:wasntme:
Also you will find the parts book very useful, not even primarily for the part numbers - the parts book has a lot more pictures, and shows how things go together (although some pictures do not change when the assembly has changed).
Unless I am mistaken, both books are on the AULRO 'Rave' CDs, available from "Shop" at the top of this page. Quicker than waiting for one to turn up on ebay, and helps AULRO.
John
John
Steve in Cairns
25th September 2014, 07:25 PM
Thanks for the advice guys.  I have decided that as I have gone so far with the strip I may as we'll finish the job properly.  Cam followers and a thermostat, also missing, have been ordered from the guy in town,  Fingers crossed I don't balls things up.
Cheers 
Steve.
Steve in Cairns
26th September 2014, 07:56 PM
Finished the stripping today.  What an idiot, I did have cam followers in there.  Gave everything a ggod clean, thanks to the guys in another thresd for the advice.   Honed out the cilinders, picture below was after I had completed 1 and 2, happy with the result.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=84566&d=1411728921
Cheers 
Steve
Johnno1969
29th September 2014, 07:15 AM
Good stuff, mate. Keep at it.
Just to echo the others, be sure to get a workshop manual. I have the LR workshop manual and the Haynes one as well, as the different format and the photos in the Haynes manuals can be useful for cross-referencing.
Cheers,
John
ezyrama
29th September 2014, 04:17 PM
Looking good, and also take lots of photo's or video's on the phone. It come's in real handy when you can't remember where something went or which way it went in.
Cheers Ian
Steve in Cairns
29th September 2014, 07:52 PM
Had a lot of trouble finding engine paint today, some people I spoke to were very helpful some not so much.  I settled on an enamel spray paint as it was the closest I could get to the original colour.  Will I be OK with enamel paint?  What do you guys think of the colour? 
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=84759&d=1411987863
Johnno1969
29th September 2014, 08:38 PM
Hey Steve,
I may be accused of heresy, but I have always had very good results just painting engine blocks in enamel. I've done this to a number of engines and, having properly cleaned and prepped the surface, the paint's always stood up to the wear and heat alright (I know it shouldn't, but it has). I got some of the original Duck Egg Blue mixed for my IIA's engine a while back, and I'll see how it goes.
That said, proper engine paint is, I guess, the Duck's Nut's - or, in this case, The Duck Egg Blue Nuts.
Cheers,
John
P.S. That colour looks fairly close on your engine (maybe a bit dark, looking at that photo). It all depends just how "original" you want things to be....
Steve in Cairns
1st October 2014, 07:36 PM
Been busy
Finished painting the engine,
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=84887&d=1412159518
Thanks to the info fron the guys regarding cleaning parts I also finished the sump and starter motor.
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