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View Full Version : Chassis Paint? Best one for durability?



4x4 MORE
8th September 2014, 07:54 PM
Hi guys has anyone used this..Chassis Paint - BlackTop - Frame Paint from KBS Coatings (http://www.kbs-coatings.com/blacktop.html)

Or this http://www.belgravepaints.com.au/module ... =27&cid=31
Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating (http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp)
Or ;)

LandyAndy
8th September 2014, 08:01 PM
When I painted the chassis on my Ser3 about 15 years ago I used John Deere tractor paint,yellow in fact.The chassis is still very good,minor fading.The bull bar has faded slightly.No washing/cleaning and left out in the open.
The paint is cheap,see your local John Deere dealer,yellow,green or black.If you want red,see a CASE dealer,blue from a New Holland dealer.
Andrew

Vern
8th September 2014, 08:05 PM
LIC41! Google it.:)

Mocky
8th September 2014, 08:25 PM
Try Phoenix Paints
Phoenix Paints Painting Supplies Perth, WA - Manufacturers of Quality Paints & Protective Coatings - Paints Perth, Australia (http://www.phoenixpaints.com.au/)
Water based and not harmful to your health

Mocky

marting
8th September 2014, 08:31 PM
There seems to be a lot of stories of mixed success with the KBS stuff and its equivalent (POR). Preparation is everything with these paints otherwise the surface tends to become covered in tiny bubbles.
I tried the KBS with no success and ended up using enamel with a hardener added. The vehicle isn't on the road yet so I can't say how well this approach will work.
Cheers, Martin

Jondavball
8th September 2014, 08:56 PM
POR 15 is what I used on my chassis and it appears to be bomb proof, but as Martin mentioned preparation is everything.

The bubbles appear if you apply it to thickly (as I discovered recently) as there is some type of reaction. Never had a problem on my chassis but recently decided to use the rest of a can on some plates and my enthusiasm wight he brush resulted in bubbles.

stallie
8th September 2014, 09:28 PM
POR 15 is great stuff. You've got to follow the exact preparation though.

If you got bubbles you probably painted the second coat too fast whilst the first one was still actually bonding to the metal giving off CO2.

If I was to do another chassis, I'd do the POR 15 a different color for the first coat then the final color on top. It's easy to miss some bits when they are the same colour and then there's a slight inconsistency in the finish.

shanegtr
8th September 2014, 09:36 PM
I wouldn't recommend POR15 for any areas that are likely to get peppered with stones on gravel roads. I done the underside of my camper trailer with it and all the leading edges chipped away. Everything that dosent get hit with stones is fine

stealth
8th September 2014, 11:11 PM
My rule with any paint is in the preparation. And the best preparation is sandblasting. Use a good quality primer on a sand blasted surface is the key. It might cost a few dollars extra but anything less for me is a waste of time if you really want the metal protection to last.

slug_burner
8th September 2014, 11:49 PM
I wouldn't recommend POR15 for any areas that are likely to get peppered with stones on gravel roads. I done the underside of my camper trailer with it and all the leading edges chipped away. Everything that dosent get hit with stones is fine

I suspect that a trailer on a gravel road would have to be one of the toughest tests for a surface finish. POR 15 is sold as a tough paint and is used on drive line components on vehicle restorations so must have passed the restorers test.

Both POR and KBS go off with moisture, make sure the area is dry or the moisture will cause the paint to go off quicker than normal and will trap bubbles, as said before, you can't put it on too thick in one coat or re coat it too soon for similar reasons, traps bubbles.

BMKal
9th September 2014, 07:48 AM
Try Phoenix Paints
Phoenix Paints Painting Supplies Perth, WA - Manufacturers of Quality Paints & Protective Coatings - Paints Perth, Australia (http://www.phoenixpaints.com.au/)
Water based and not harmful to your health

Mocky

X2 for Phoenix Paints

I've been using their Metalfix products for years - have never seen anything that can match it. ;)

TeamFA
9th September 2014, 10:39 AM
For those who have used POR15 (or the KBS), can you tell me exactly which of their products you used?

We're going to be doing the chassis, axles, springs etc. on the S2a shortly, and currently researching what to paint them in.

A quick look at the POR15 website lists a few products - single-part topcoats (including a "chassis coat black"), but then there's also "rust preventative coatings".

And do you brush or spray them on?

Cheers!

DoubleChevron
9th September 2014, 10:56 AM
I figured out what makes POR/KBS fail recently. I had a tin that just wouldn't apply ... I took it back and to the paint shop and told them they obviously have a faulty batch. He grabbed out a sample card and brush, painted it on .... and the damn stuff worked perfectly :mad: :eek:

Took it home and tried it again ..... no good ..... Then it occured to me, the cheap paint brushes I was using. Went and bought a slightly more expensive different brand brush and it worked perfectly. Somehting in those really cheap brushes (maybe a silicon used in there manufacture ?) caused the POR/KBS to turn apply weird and spotty/patchy.

Stupidly I dunked that brush in the 1litre tin .... Once I did that ... the whole tin was then stuffed. Always decant to a separate tin to paint from. And make sure if your using cheap throw away brushes.... there not causing you issues.

Other than that, I've never had a failure with POR/KBS. As far as I can tell it sticks to *any* surface (other than brand new shiny metal) like **** to a blanket :)

seeya,
Shane L.

crash
9th September 2014, 12:44 PM
For those who have used POR15 (or the KBS), can you tell me exactly which of their products you used?

We're going to be doing the chassis, axles, springs etc. on the S2a shortly, and currently researching what to paint them in.

A quick look at the POR15 website lists a few products - single-part topcoats (including a "chassis coat black"), but then there's also "rust preventative coatings".

And do you brush or spray them on?

Cheers!

I have used the Chassi coat black on a chassi that has been now sitting outside it the weather for over a year. Still looking good. The chassi was sandblasted, then used the Marine clean and metal prep before painting.
If you want to coat the chassi in another color afterwards as a top coat you have to do it while the Chassi coat has not fullied cured otherwise it will not stick to it.

stallie
9th September 2014, 01:13 PM
POR15 is fiddly paint - but just follow the instructions… That's difficult for some of us blokes but really it's not that hard :p I did my suspension and surrounding chassis areas of the TR6. It's great stuff.

I used 2 coats of the black RPP, but as mentioned earlier, I should have followed suggestions in their brochure and used a different undercoat and topcoat colour as I missed a couple of places in the top coat and don't have the gloss finish. It's in the middle of a suspension of the car so doesn't really matter.

Preparation is everything.

Use a clean brush. Decant the paint into another small tin. Put plastic under the lid when you shut it otherwise the paint will chemically weld the lid shut….

Clean the metal, or degrease, then metal ready which is an acid that allows the base layer of paint to bond with the metal. Or just sandblast it.

The paint goes for miles and miles... DONT put it on too thick. Just enough to get full coverage. The paint actually chemically bonds to the metal underneath (giving off CO2 gas) and that will bubble if the paint is too thick.

In the next couple of hours, you need to do the top coat. Do that any colour you want (e.g. Chassis coat, Blackcote, Hardnose).

Don't get the paint on your skin. It takes a week to come off. It can't be scrubbed off. I used dishwashing gloves and had black streaks from my forearm to my elbow for a week. :o

Have a look here...
PPC - POR 15® Rust Preventive Paint (http://ppcco.com.au/prevention.htm)

Chucaro
9th September 2014, 08:07 PM
POR 15 is what I used on my chassis and it appears to be bomb proof, but as Martin mentioned preparation is everything.

The bubbles appear if you apply it to thickly (as I discovered recently) as there is some type of reaction. Never had a problem on my chassis but recently decided to use the rest of a can on some plates and my enthusiasm wight he brush resulted in bubbles.

I used POR 15 on the steel yachts and IMHO it is the best paint that you can get.
Preparation is the key and also know how to and wen to apply the second coat.

4x4 MORE
9th September 2014, 09:16 PM
I have used the Chassi coat black on a chassi that has been now sitting outside it the weather for over a year. Still looking good. The chassi was sandblasted, then used the Marine clean and metal prep before painting.
If you want to coat the chassi in another color afterwards as a top coat you have to do it while the Chassi coat has not fullied cured otherwise it will not stick to it.

Is there anything else I can use??..as the 3 step process is really expensive!:eek:

I just want to use the chassis black..but what other products can I use to prep the metal after sanding with 240..???