Signs of dying Xenon Bulb?

[eddomak]

I have done a quick search and couldn't find anything, so was wondering...

With the xenon bulbs on low beam, one of mine seems to be dying - it has not been lit at times, yet it comes back alive pretty soon as well.

I have no experience with xenon bulbs, so was wondering if this is just normal behaviour for a dying bulb.

If I replace it, from this thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/140621-bi-exnon-globes-d4.html) I believe I need a D3S bulb at 4300K , in which case I assume I also need to get the ones with the silver metal "box" behind it? (Some eBay sellers seem to sell just the bulb)?

[nat_89]

I know the xenon bulbs we have in our trucks at work start to go a purply colour when they are on the way our could be just the brand we use but thats what I've noticed at work! Hope thats of some help haha could be wrong

[BMKal]

I'd suspect a connection rather than the globe.

When the Hella globes in my set of Predator driving lights started to go on me, the light output changed from the usual blue/white to a yellowish tinge. The globes remained working continuously though right up to when I took them off the vehicle.

I did for a while have a problem with one of the headlights not coming on in the D2 (has an after-market hi/lo beam HID conversion fitted). Usually when this happened, if I turned the lights off and then back on again, the light would come on. I checked it all out and it was a dirty contact - no problems after cleaning and re-crimping.

[Redback]

I agree with BM, if the colour hasn't changed I'd connection issue, earth maybe, especially if it off sometimes, then comes back on.

I had HIDs on the D2 and when there was a bad connection, the left headlight wouldn't work, tighten the earth, all good again.

Yes DS3 at 4300k

Baz.

[eddomak]

Tonight for the 3 times it was started it seems as though it does not start up instantly on starting the car, but has to flicker first, then stays on. Hmm...

[CU55TM Disco]

Have a search on HID planet forum, lot of info there on hid bulbs.
They also recommend replacing both sides at the same time, otherwise u will have lights that are 2 different colours.

[Redback]

Bi-xenon are a warranty item if you're still under warranty.

Baz.

[eddomak]

Bi-xenon are a warranty item if you're still under warranty.
Baz.

Thanks - I was wondering about that in the back of my mind, and although I am not under original warranty I am under Allianz Extended Warranty.

I just gave the dealer a call and it seems the bulbs are not covered by warranty (original or extended), but if it is the ignitor (the metal base behind the actual glass bulb) then the ignitor is covered. Any diagnosis work would only be covered it the final work is warranty...

But the very helpful service advisor said the way to diagnose this is to swap the ignitors (not the bulbs) from left and right sides, and see if the flickering transfers. He said it was also likely that the bulb might be on the way out...

Stay tuned.

[Rich84]

As others have said, unless the lens has been contaminated and damaged, causing the glass bulb to rupture and lose its gas (in which case it would never work), there's not much chance of any other reason other than a connection or some problem with the xenon ballast/igniter.


Xenon bulbs do not have a filament like halogen, they rely on a 20,000v+ shock from the igniter to cause a gas sphere to discharge light. This is why they tend to have a very long life, so long as the glass casing is not damaged.

[101RRS]

Tonight for the 3 times it was started it seems as though it does not start up instantly on starting the car, but has to flicker first, then stays on. Hmm...

That is what HIDS are supposed to do - when power is first applied there is a flash and then the globe goes to almost off and then over the next 5ecs or so gradually gets brighter until full brilliance is achieved.

They are not just "on" like halogens.

Garry

[eddomak]

That is what HIDS are supposed to do - when power is first applied there is a flash and then the globe goes to almost off and then over the next 5ecs or so gradually gets brighter until full brilliance is achieved.

They are not just "on" like halogens.

Garry

Thanks - for this and the reply on the non-filament construction. Very helpful.

With the flicker, this is a different type than the "no problems" side. It is like it is trying to start it quite a few times. Similar to how a nicely charged battery fires the engine up "instantly" compared to how a low battery takes a couple more low powered attempts which eventually end up firing the engine up.

[Rich84]

I'd suspect a connection issue. The xenon bulb needs a good clean connection - as I said it needs over 20,000v to get it to start. This is why the igniter is often mounted directly onto the bulb. My suggestion would be to pull it apart and clean it along with all the connections to the ballast/controller unit.


Someone said LR uses Volvo sourced electronics - if that's true (a lot of the systems definitely resemble Volvo systems), the ballast/controller will be a Valeo unit - these are pretty reliable and only tend to fail when moisture gets into the headlight housing. They also tend to fail completely - either they work or they don't, not occasionally.

[eddomak]

Well, I never got the chance to swap the igniter over - the colour of the light has changed over the last week and these past 2 nights it has given up the ghost entirely.

Now I'm looking for a reliable source of genuine Philips D3S units. LR spare parts says they are over $300 per bulb/igniter unit, whereas I thought I found a reliable eBay seller with good feedback and photos with Philips stickers etc at $130/pair, but then when they arrived there were no signs of them being genuine. Paypal claim in progress... :mad:

I have always found powerbulbs.com. to be a reliable source and they are around $260/pair, but I might as well upgrade to the Xtreme vision for $264.

Anyone know any good suppliers?

[Redback]

I went searching about 2yrs ago, found that the DS3 globes were non existent here and dealers were selling them for over $300ea:mad:

Heaps overseas, especially England and Phillips globes, which is what is fitted to the D3/4, and you get a pair for less than half the price from LR for one.

Just looked at Powerbulbs.com, $165.97AUD for one, that's pretty good, your price is for a pair, are they cheaper if you get a pair??

Baz.

[eddomak]

Just looked at Powerbulbs.com, $165.97AUD for one, that's pretty good, your price is for a pair, are they cheaper if you get a pair??

Yeap, if you buy 2 or more a discount of 20% is applied over the whole order.

I have bought H7 bulbs many times from them and they have always been good. One time I claimed the 12 month warranty at the 10 month mark and no problems at all - just sent them the blown bulb and they sent me a new one straight away.

[eddomak]

Ok, just to close the thread off...

The eBay seller said the version sent is still from the same factory yada yada yada just without the sticker, and offered to refund the difference to their generic brand (in my hands) or I could swap them over to the ones with the sticker (postage at their expense).

So in the end I thought why not, give the $90/pair a go, and if it all goes sour then buy the genuine items from Powerbulbs and spend the extra on the upgraded output ones.

So I swapped one globe over last night and it is all good so far. The colour temp is slightly higher than the originals, still a nice shade that I prefer (not too white/blue).

The original bulb definitely has some issue with it - you can see some cloudiness in within the bulb so something is not right. BTW, the orginal was an OSRAM and not a Philips.

Thanks for all the advice and help.

[Graeme]

The colour temp is slightly higher than the originalsDidn't someone recently post that HIDs yellow with use?