View Full Version : D2 central locking and obd issue
Outback 1
11th September 2014, 07:36 PM
a friend of mine has recently had his battery disconnected while he did some maintenance on his 02 d2 td5 when he reconnected the battery the alarm went off so he entered the eka code .
now the remote wont unlock / lock the car the central locking button on the dash does nothing ,fuel door switch does not work and there is no power to the obd port all fuses are ok tested them today any help appreciated
sierrafery
12th September 2014, 05:38 AM
was welding involved in that maintainance? ...cos if yes i'm almost certain that the BCU is gone... i've seen that 3 times untill now, with battery disconnected, it seems that the BCU needs to be unplugged to be on the safe side
at least can he start the engine or it's immobilised too? ...no other symptoms? ... a crossed B on the odometer maybe?... windows, wipers etc are working normally?
Outback 1
12th September 2014, 09:29 AM
No welding involved windows are working and car can be driven
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sierrafery
12th September 2014, 10:23 AM
you said you checked all the fuses, double check fusible link FL3 in engine bay, if it's good remove fuse F1 interior fusebox and see if you have feed in it's input cos it seems that all the circuits connected to FL3 engine bay are dead... that's the circuit which must be checked cos:
FL3= > F1, 2, 20, 21 interior fusebox and
F1=> ALL - RH front door lock motor, LH front door lock
motor, RH rear door lock motor, LH rear door lock
motor, tail door lock motor.
F2=> ALL - Fuel flap release switch.
F20=> ALL - Transponder coil, header 294, header 725.(from header C0294-15 the feed goes to diagnostic port pin 16!)
F21=> ALL - Header 292, header 293.
the problem is on this circuit somewhere... Do the interior lamps, the clock, the radio and the aircon work?...cos then it's big trouble
Tombie
12th September 2014, 10:42 AM
What work was he doing on the car?
That will be helpful
Outback 1
12th September 2014, 02:07 PM
Fpr
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sierrafery
12th September 2014, 02:33 PM
what about the FL3 circuit though... i'm just curious
rangieman
13th September 2014, 09:05 AM
Fpr
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I know the good book says first before doing some jobs on cars to disconnect battery . But why would you for the FPR:cool:
I know it doesnt help but ive disconnected my battery plenty of times for various reasons with nill effect .
Sounds to me he has knocked something off or not connected something back up
Road Stone
14th September 2014, 07:08 AM
Have you tried disconnecting the battery again and waiting 30 minutes?
Just a thought.
Outback 1
15th September 2014, 12:02 PM
Update fl3 is ok no power to fuses 1 2 20 21 also no interior lights no radio or clock but aircon is working all functions will sometimes return when you cross a rough patch of road or rumble strips but only lasts for about 10 minutes
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Outback 1
15th September 2014, 12:03 PM
Have you tried disconnecting the battery again and waiting 30 minutes?
Just a thought.
Yes tried that jerry but no luck
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sierrafery
15th September 2014, 12:19 PM
It means you must see now if there is output from the engine bay fusebox on that circuit and if it is to see if that feed gets to the interior fusebox... then you'll know where the trouble is, the best scenario is that the problem is a loosensed plug, the worst that bad contact is within one of the fuseboxes
sierrafery
15th September 2014, 01:00 PM
i checked the diagram again, the feed from FL3 output from engine bay fusebox is in C0572-2 and goes directly to interior fusebox C0582-1 brown/red wire, thenit splits within the fusebox to F1, 2, 20, 21, the best is to work backwards from interior fusebox cos if you get feed there in the plug it's certain that the problem is within this fusebox...if no feed go to the other fusebox
Outback 1
16th September 2014, 12:15 PM
Update 2 I have now found out that the central locking clock interior and radio issues have been going on for some time pre battery disconnecting the obd issue is new .
While checking power today we found no feed from the engine bay but I noticed that someone had placed a relay in the sls port which was quite warm, I removed it and we now have everything working again but I think it is a result of disturbing the connections in the fuse box itself he will drive it for a while and see what happens and if it returns I will change the fuse box under the bonnet because that is where I think the problem is
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sierrafery
16th September 2014, 12:47 PM
at least you've found the source of the problem :BigThumb:, you can open that fusebox and try to follow the circuit from FL3 untill the exit...that fusebox is built in tabular layers and you can find the culprit if you are determined enough, but it can be a pain in the ar&e so for a price of a good used unit maybe it doesnt worth the travail
Outback 1
16th September 2014, 12:59 PM
I have several used ones at home so it should be an easy fix
sierrafery
16th September 2014, 01:17 PM
that's nice then...about that warm SLS relay, if it was converted to coils it's possible that it was not set to coils in the SLABS ECU then the relay is energised all the time, though there should be a warning on the dash in this case, unless it was blanked by the previous owner... it would be good to check that setting cos even if the "hardware" is removed if it's not set on coils the overall drain of the system is a bit higher cos the SLABS ECU stays energised 1.5 hours after the ignition was off, which is around 100mA and it activates again for 30 minutes every time a door is opened....which is useless for a coiler
Outback 1
16th September 2014, 01:40 PM
I will check the settings next time I see him but I am sure that it was always a coil setup
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