Disabling ABS while 4wdriving in a 96 Discovery TDI?

[Robmacca]

Hey gents.....

Went out in my Disco for the 1st time 4wdriving and I found the ABS activating a fair bit and to the point that it was becoming a PITA.

Does anyone if its possible to disable it (via a switch or something) when you're 4wdriving?

I even thought about unplugging the plug at the ABS unit under the bonnet, but just wasn't game to do it.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated

Rob

[d2dave]

If you unplug the harness this will achieve your desired result. It will however log a fault which will require a pain in the arse procedure to clear.

[Naks]

Went out in my Disco for the 1st time 4wdriving and I found the ABS activating a fair bit and to the point that it was becoming a PITA.

Errr, are you sure you don't mean traction control?

If the ABS is engaging, then you are doing it wrong - not sure how you are managing to lock up the wheels to trigger ABS.

If TC is engaging, then that should help you. If it isn't, then you need to learn how to drive within its capabilities.

I've had TC on a Disco and now a Puma and it's never been a hindrance. You just need to learn how to use it :)

[Robmacca]

Errr, are you sure you don't mean traction control?

If the ABS is engaging, then you are doing it wrong - not sure how you are managing to lock up the wheels to trigger ABS.

If TC is engaging, then that should help you. If it isn't, then you need to learn how to drive within its capabilities.

I've had TC on a Disco and now a Puma and it's never been a hindrance. You just need to learn how to use it :)

Mate, this is a 96 Disco(Auto), they never to my knowledge came with traction control.... and Yes I do mean ABS. On loose downhill dirt surfaces (ie Steep loose Declines) the wheels are always going to slip to some degree when going over the washout humps, etc. It's this slipping that is a PITA as the brakes release for an instant. This is what is annoying as there is no need for it to activate as I'm still in full control. IT seems way too sensitive.....
I've got another 4wd with all the TC,ABS,DHA, etc and never behaves like this.....
All I was thinking about was wanting to install a switch (into maybe the power wire that wont cause a fault code - if possible) that I could switch while 4wdriving and then switch back on when I'm back on normal surfaces....

[Robmacca]

If you unplug the harness this will achieve your desired result. It will however log a fault which will require a pain in the arse procedure to clear.

Thanks Dave....

What about tapping into the Power Wire to the module under the bonnet? Is this possible & would it work?


How bad is the resetting procedure and is the fault code present by the ABS dash light not going out on the dash?

Rob

[Landover]

I don't think Naks has driven a D1 off road to experience this. It has been talked on here many times before. I have gone straight though intersetions before in the bush with the foot pressed hard on the brakes and the car keeps going. You have to be careful if you do a permanent mod as it will void insurance. I put a blown fuse in to disable the abs and never had a problem stopping since.

[workingonit]

I'm with Robmacca...the ABS is a pain - the number of times I've started to drive it home from work and in the first 30 metres it decides to deny you braking power, then goes pop bang under the bonnet to reset itself. Disconnected the fuse. Read in UK LRover mag that it is not an issue with authorities there to disconnect it if no longer working as it is not the primary braking system, but an add on - different issue to where some RRC had the ABS as primary. Once disconnected it is out of the picture. There have been other net examples where people have gone to pull up at red lights and find themselves sailing through because the brakes have disappeared then to come back on after the event.

Made by the same mob that make the poxy vacuum pump I believe.

[Robmacca]

Thanks guys.... this is what I want to hear.....This Fuse, is it located under the bonnet on the RHS or in the cab below the steering wheel so to speak... I assume nothing else is paralleled up to this Fuse ??

Rob



I don't think Naks has driven a D1 off road to experience this. It has been talked on here many times before. I have gone straight though intersetions before in the bush with the foot pressed hard on the brakes and the car keeps going. You have to be careful if you do a permanent mod as it will void insurance. I put a blown fuse in to disable the abs and never had a problem stopping since.


I'm with Robmacca...the ABS is a pain - the number of times I've started to drive it home from work and in the first 30 metres it decides to deny you braking power, then goes pop bang under the bonnet to reset itself. Disconnected the fuse. Read in UK LRover mag that it is not an issue with authorities there to disconnect it if no longer working as it is not the primary braking system, but an add on - different issue to where some RRC had the ABS as primary. Once disconnected it is out of the picture. There have been other net examples where people have gone to pull up at red lights and find themselves sailing through because the brakes have disappeared then to come back on after the event.

Made by the same mob that make the poxy vacuum pump I believe.

[workingonit]

Can't remember off the top of my head - under the bonnet I think - the cover should detail each fuse.

Not sure about the insurance issue - assume it will be similar to this example. I once had to investigate for work purposes the implications for overloading vehicles beyond GVM - late model toyotas start to quickly run out of carrying capacity once a few after market items are added (bull bar, spare wheel carrier, winch, long range tank). Seems to boil down to whether or not the issue significantly contributed to the accident at the time.

ABS seems to be demonstrated on airstrips or frozen lakes. Non-ABS vehicles crash into cones. ABS vehicles loll through the course in wide sweeps showing how cones can't be killed in wide open spaces. ABS takes longer to stop. There aren't many kids level crossings on airstrips and ice lakes. Try wide sweeping moves on your narrow school road with mums and toddlers on the footpaths and oncoming traffic. Maybe fine for country gravel roads and the like to avoid kangaroos etc.

Yes, have it compulsory on all new vehicles, but also have it compulsory for all manufactures to offer a lifetime warranty or at least for 20 years or so. And not as the primary system, so that in the event of the manufactures lack of support/gone bust/taken over the consumer can disconnect legally and still have very good brakes.

[d2dave]

If you can disable it with a fuse insurance won't be an issue. Just put a blown fuse there. If you have a claim it must have just blown as it was ok before the prang.

[sierrafery]

I'm not the best when it comes about D1 as i dont have one but you must be very carefull which fuse you remove cos there's a backup between them as if one blows the other one powers the ECU to trigger the warning to show you that something is wrong(there are 4 fuses, the two in the interior fusebox are for the ECU and that's where you must work)... unless you remove both main ECU powering fuses you'll have that warning which then you'll have to clear with tester or the paperclip in the obd port method... if you only want the ABS to not work you can remove either of them IMO cos the system will be disabled then...i dont know which one is the main power but maybe you can make some tests to find out

to locate the fuses see page 821-822 in the first attached document and the second shows you how to clear the fault

[d2dave]

Thanks Dave....

How bad is the resetting procedure and is the fault code present by the ABS dash light not going out on the dash?

Rob

Rob. Here is the info that is needed to diagnose and clear faults on D1 ABS. Go to post number eight and open the PDF.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/88135-abs-fault-codes-d1.html#post1312591

[Naks]

I don't think Naks has driven a D1 off road to experience this.

Ah, sorry. I thought you meant D2. Wasn't even aware that the D1 had ABS

[101RRS]

Have a look at your tyres - when I first got my FL1 it had HT tyres on it and ABS would constantly activate when offroad whenever brakes were required as the tyres just slipped in the dirt.

Updated the tyres to BFG ATs and the issue just went away - driving over the same ground and ABS did not activate as the tyres were gripping better and not slipping.

For sure slam on the brakes and ABS would still activate but not in normal driving.

Garry

[Robmacca]

Have a look at your tyres - when I first got my FL1 it had HT tyres on it and ABS would constantly activate when offroad whenever brakes were required as the tyres just slipped in the dirt.

Updated the tyres to BFG ATs and the issue just went away - driving over the same ground and ABS did not activate as the tyres were gripping better and not slipping.

For sure slam on the brakes and ABS would still activate but not in normal driving.

Garry

Yeah... running skinny M/T's (235/85/16) and it still is a PITA....

Looking at the PDF's that were posted up, it looks like there's 2 possible fuses inside the car as follows

’B’ Satellite 2
1. Electric windows - front
2. Electric windows - rear
3. Anti-lock braking
4. Central door locking
5. Electric sun roof
6. Trailer lights

’C’ Satellite 1
1. Anti-theft alarm
2. Headlight washers
3. Engine management
4. Anti-lock brakes
5. Anti-theft alarm
6. Rear air conditioning, heater

Then there's 2 in the engine bay as follows:

Fuses - spade type

1. Heated rear window
2. Sidelights
3. Air conditioning
4. Hazard warning lights, horn
5. ABS valve
6. Fuel pump
7. Fuel injectors

A Main circuit fuses - larger bolt in fuses

8. ABS pump
9. Ignition circuits
10. Lighting
11. Window lift, central door locking, rear blower
12. Heater, air conditioning
13. Generator

These 2 are for operating the Valve & Pump, so I would assume u would leave them in and just remove the 2 fuses from inside the car which would be for the ECU side of things..... Would this be correct?

rob

[Landover]

From memory I did the blade fuse under the bonnet, I think it was around 30A. It brought a warning lamp up on the dash but did not activate the ABS when braking. I have read some did the fuse under the dash. I tried the one under the bonnet as it was the first one I found.

[workingonit]

My warning light is in the ashtray...don't understand why it doesn't glow...

[Td5disco]

I agree both TC and ABS are huge PITA when on either lose gravel or soft sand. I pull out the abs/TC fuse on my d2 whenever I'm doing beach work as they will eventually stop you or push you off a cliff. The fault seems to reset itself after about the 5th time I start the car. I would highly recommend it on soft sand but not for any rock or tight gravel.

[sierrafery]

.... I would assume u would leave them in and just remove the 2 fuses from inside the car which would be for the ECU side of things..... Would this be correct?

rob

that was my thought too... cos there is the chance that by removing those to not get any fault codes like with the others

[d2dave]

I agree both TC and ABS are huge PITA when on either lose gravel or soft sand. I pull out the abs/TC fuse on my d2 whenever I'm doing beach work as they will eventually stop you or push you off a cliff. The fault seems to reset itself after about the 5th time I start the car. I would highly recommend it on soft sand but not for any rock or tight gravel.

Having heard that TC was not good for sand I posed the question when doing my option B to put a switch in one of the wires. This would then log a fault and I assume it would make TC inoperative.

I was almost howled down as to why I would want to do this as every one here reckoned TC worked well in sand.

[101RRS]

I was almost howled down as to why I would want to do this as every one here reckoned TC worked well in sand.

Yes - while I certainly accept that many people claim that TC retards them in sand etc, when you understand how it works (retarding the wheel that does not have traction and transferring drive it to the wheel that does have traction) it is hard to understand how TC would retard momentum.

I have had two cars with TC an FL1 and the RRS and in my experience neither retards momentum when TC activates - in fact the opposite.

With a modern vehicle like the RRS I would say that it is Direction Stability Control (DSC) kicking in rather than TC and causing retardation but many people who say TC retards them are in older TC vehicles that do not have DSC so maybe early and slow to respond TC systems did cause issue.

However my FL1 was the first landie to have full 4 channel TC, and no DSC and it never had issues.

Garry

[Naks]

Yep, this is also my experience.

Once you deflate your tyres and choose the right gear + momentum, it is quite hard to get the TC to activate.