PDA

View Full Version : RRS 7pin plug wiring



Clelo
15th September 2014, 10:42 AM
Hello all
I have search posts but cannot find my issue
2010RRS with what appears to be a factory fitted tow bar and wiring
The wiring is really short in through the bar so I would have to cut the loom and add more on afterwards to check the connections. Hence this question before I go on hacking away. I plugged into the black unit and not the white one.
Plugged in a standard 7 pin round to flat plug and connected it to the trailer
All lights work and all was fine until I went under cover in Magnet Mart
The lights came on automatically and so did the electric brakes. Once I turned the lights off all was well again.
I have not fitted a brake controller yet!
Has anyone else experienced this issue or am I the lucky one!

:confused:
Clelo

rufusking
15th September 2014, 12:11 PM
Sorry, what are the electric brakes?

simmo1
15th September 2014, 12:22 PM
Hi folks,

Elsewhere in this forum this same issue is noted. The euro wiring of the standard plug is the problem I understand and needs to be corrected to the Au standard. My 2014 RRS has a euro 13 pin flat plug with the lower layer of pins matching the normal flat plug set up. It seems to be wired correctly I think. Have a look here for trailer wiring and you should find the post.

Cheers, Simmo

101RRS
15th September 2014, 01:33 PM
Do a search there are a thousand posts on this.

But basically - the europeans have individual power feeds to each of the trailer tail lights unlike the Aussie layout which has one power feed to both trailer tail lights.

Unfortunately one of the individual tail light feeds aligns with the electric brakes (I think the blue wire) so when you put the lights on in the car the brakes in the trailer come on.

In my 2007 RRS there is a trailer wiring fuse box in the rear of the car so I have just pulled the relevant fuse. Means if you want to tow a trailer with electric brakes but you do not want to use them it means you can have the tail lights on the trailer working off one of the feeds and the other feed disconnected so the trailer brakes do not come on with the car headlights.

Garry

Meken
15th September 2014, 08:49 PM
Yes the famous lights activating trailer brakes!! Usually what happens is the pin 5 wiring (trailer brakes wiring in aus standard) in the vehicle gets cut back up near the plug (after the single tail light wire splits into 2) and the electric brake controller wire (blue) gets attached to it.
OR
Take it to your local dealer with the trailer attached and show them what happens and ask then how it meets aus standard? ;)

Clelo
15th September 2014, 09:11 PM
Thanks Guys
I thought that this was the issue. I just did not want to mess with the wiring unless this was actually the case

I haven't installed trailer brakes on the RRS yet but every trailer I have has electric brakes ( camper, horse float and tandem)

Cannot believe the torque the 3 litre has over the TD5
Towed a metre of wet brickies sand 10 bags of cement and some other stuff home the other day
On the hills out of town I was down to 40kmh in the TD5
Sat on the limit of 90 kms with the RRS
Super impressed

One more question if I may?


what's needed to convert the white plug to an Anderson plug?
Which wires do I cut and cap and which do I use
These only four I can see but the loom is tight and I will have to cut them all and extend the ones I need.

Lotz-A-Landies
15th September 2014, 10:08 PM
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

AS-2513 is the Australian Standard for all sockets.
ISO-1724 is the black socket
ISO-3732 is the white camper socket.
AFAIK the easiest place to modify the socket wiring is behind the trim panel on the LHS cargo area.

Clelo
16th September 2014, 10:10 AM
Thank you
Very helpful information

Lotz-A-Landies
16th September 2014, 10:53 AM
Clelo

Some people have problems with the trailer brakes locking on and the full range of error codes after the brake controller is installed. This is caused by feedback from the controller confusing the wiring ECU.

On my D4 this was resolved by installing a diode into the wire between the brake lamp switch and the controller.

Not everyone has the same problem, but many owners have.

Diana

jonesy63
16th September 2014, 11:35 AM
what's needed to convert the white plug to an Anderson plug?

Don't cut anything!

Buy one a 12S plug from dealer or eBay UK - like this one:
Silver Grey 12S 7 PIN PLUG Camping Caravan Trailer Towing Electric Accessory | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-Grey-12S-7-PIN-PLUG-Camping-Caravan-Trailer-Towing-Electric-Accessory-/360911912974?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item540806c00e)

Use pins 4 and 3 if you want to run direct from main battery, or 6 and 3 if you want ignition power. Then connect Anderson plug on other end of short 20A figure 8 cable.

I made one to charge via ctek without having to leave bonnet open:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/910.jpg

Cheers, Rob

Epic pooh
16th September 2014, 12:38 PM
Or you can do what I and others have done which is to rip out the black plug, wire in a flat 7 pin plug (to AS) and an anderson plug (running from Aux batt) mounting both where the round black plug used to be. Can charge via the anderson plug (although I don't because I have a ctek connector wired under the bonnet and prefer to leave the bonnet up when charging so there is no chance of brain fade on the way out the garage ...). Quite a bit of work but it works for me.

PeterLilburn
15th August 2016, 01:24 PM
Very Helpful guys - thanks