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Fitzy2011
16th September 2014, 04:53 AM
I recently purchased a Nanocom which I am very happy with, and one of the reason I bought it is for the ability to put the D3 into tight tolerance mode for wheel alignments. (Which I haven't done yet)
But as I do a fair bit of beach work, and the lowering of the vehicle at 50kph really bugs me, I was wondering if I can put it in TTM in extended height and drive at a bit of speed on the beach. ??

ade
16th September 2014, 08:03 AM
I found with my D3 and beach driving. If it's the sort of beach where you can drive with a bit of speed then you shouldn't need to raise the vehicle. If it's a boggy slower beach then you probably need to raise it. I believe this is what landrover intended.

shanegtr
16th September 2014, 08:12 AM
I don't think TTM would make any difference to the speed limiting height restriction. All TTM does in make the car maintain its set hight to a higher tolerance.

Im no expert, but maybe your able to recalibrate the standard height to a higher point than normal? That way when it drops down from off road height your still higher than stock?

Failing that get some GOE rods or LLAMS

jon3950
16th September 2014, 08:43 AM
All TTM does in make the car maintain its set hight to a higher tolerance.

Exactly.

There seem to have been a few misconceptions about Tight Tolerance Mode and wheel alignments on here lately.

Tight Tolerance Mode does not stop the suspension from moving. It actually makes it move more as it tries to maintain a level ride height to within a smaller range - ie a tighter tolerance. This is why you should not drive around in Tight Tolerance Mode for prolonged periods as it puts a greater strain on the compressor and other levelling components.

It is used for setting the suspension geometry so that when the suspension shuts down it will be closer to level than it would have been in normal mode, thereby giving you a more accurate alignment. The suspension only stops moving when the vehicle is fully shut down.

So for an accurate wheel alignment, two things are needed. Firstly, the vehicle needs to be levelled using Tight Tolerance Mode. Secondly, it needs to be completely shut down so that it will not move during the alignment.

It's quite simple really.

Cheers,
Jon

Fitzy2011
16th September 2014, 10:05 AM
Thanks very much, that clears it up for me.

cjc_td5
16th September 2014, 11:26 AM
Exactly.

There seem to have been a few misconceptions about Tight Tolerance Mode and wheel alignments on here lately.

Tight Tolerance Mode does not stop the suspension from moving. It actually makes it move more as it tries to maintain a level ride height to within a smaller range - ie a tighter tolerance. This is why you should not drive around in Tight Tolerance Mode for prolonged periods as it puts a greater strain on the compressor and other levelling components.

It is used for setting the suspension geometry so that when the suspension shuts down it will be closer to level than it would have been in normal mode, thereby giving you a more accurate alignment. The suspension only stops moving when the vehicle is fully shut down.

So for an accurate wheel alignment, two things are needed. Firstly, the vehicle needs to be levelled using Tight Tolerance Mode. Secondly, it needs to be completely shut down so that it will not move during the alignment.

It's quite simple really.

Cheers,
Jon

Thanks Jon.
How do you achieve "complete shutdown"? Is it simply turning off the engine, or does the key have to be removed from the vehicle, or locked completely??

Cheers,

rocmic
16th September 2014, 12:16 PM
Thanks Jon.
How do you achieve "complete shutdown"? Is it simply turning off the engine, or does the key have to be removed from the vehicle, or locked completely??

Cheers,
I think it is like this:
Switch off vehicle, remove key, get out of car, close doors and wait for the park brake light to go off, this indicates that the computers have shut down.
Cheers
Mike

ade
16th September 2014, 02:42 PM
What about removing the compressor fuse like when you have a faulty confessor to stop it going to the bump stops. Would this work to stop it lowering at speed?

Graeme
16th September 2014, 07:23 PM
What about removing the compressor fuse like when you have a faulty confessor to stop it going to the bump stops. Would this work to stop it lowering at speed?
Its not the compressor fuse that needs to be removed, its the main suspension system 20A fuse to stop the ecu from opening the various valves.

The suspension ecu never shuts down unless that 20A fuse is removed, relevelling downwards if needed any time a door is opened, as well as 2 hrs then every 6 hrs after the ignition is switched off. However relevelling is suspended if a height change request is made (eg OR height selected) whilst a door is open or a door is opened before the height change completes.

Edit: Removing the 20A fuse will prevent lowering at speed but best to also remove the passenger compartment 5A suspension fuse so that the ecu doesn't know the ignition is on and therefore wont constantly issue the 50kph max speed message and alarm.