maxi drive lockers

[discoRRc]

hey guys, so pretty soon I can buy my defender. I've been looking for a long time at all my options to build it up into a beast off road. so, I know that maxi drives really are the best lockers you can get, pretty much bulletproof. but unfortunately they aren't in production anymore, or so I thought. I recently found the M.R. Automotive webpage, they say they are manufacturing and distributing selected maxi drive products.. does this mean I can purchase brand new lockers? or are they just making other products like there crawlers gears?

[Doc130]

If it's a new defender pretty sure it's all over for lockers, they do other maxidrive component just not lockers, it's a shame! I tried to get one for the front of my 2012 130, got one of the last ones for the rear

[LRO]

Hi
As far as i know they are still doing the back lockers not the front

[discoRRc]

Im going get either a Isuzu or 200 tdi, but I was planning to swap out the Salisbury for a rover diff. now I guess im going to have to wait for second hand one to pop up

[isuzurover]

Im going get either a Isuzu or 200 tdi, but I was planning to swap out the Salisbury for a rover diff. now I guess im going to have to wait for second hand one to pop up

Last I heard MR were doing salisbury lockers.

you would be insane to remove a salisbury to fit a rover diff.

[discoRRc]

Last I heard MR were doing salisbury lockers.

you would be insane to remove a salisbury to fit a rover diff.


well yes and no, there are pros and cons to each

[Dopey]

Apart from a rover diff having a little more clearance underneath it compared to a Salisbury diff, what other advantages are there that would make you prefer a rover diff?

Mike.

[discoRRc]

Apart from a rover diff having a little more clearance underneath it compared to a Salisbury diff, what other advantages are there that would make you prefer a rover diff?

Mike.

Well, thats pretty much it i would say, the rover diff isn't a anchor in mud, doesn't get caught on every rock step in sight, and doesnt diff out out in "small" rutts. If i replace the stock diff with maxi drive, strength is no longer an issue.

[85 county]

Well, thats pretty much it i would say, the rover diff isn't a anchor in mud, doesn't get caught on every rock step in sight, and doesnt diff out out in "small" rutts. If i replace the stock diff with maxi drive, strength is no longer an issue.

then shave it, why do you want to move backwards. even a rover with a maxi. you still have a flexing crown and wobbling pinion and lighter tubes.

so to get a rover diff equal to a sals, needs quite a bit of welding and a bit more thought than i think you may have considered.

[discoRRc]

It might not be quite as strong as a salisbury, but i know alot of people running rover diffs with maxis in them and they never have had problems

[Doc130]

I've had rear maxi drive in my 130 puma carrying heavy loads through tough conditions with no dramas to date, other components will break before a maxidrive locker!

[Pacemaker]

Yes they do have maxi drive locker kits for salisbury type diffs in stock.. I was quoted by them last week.

Michael.

[isuzurover]

I've had rear maxi drive in my 130 puma carrying heavy loads through tough conditions with no dramas to date, other components will break before a maxidrive locker!


Yes but you have a p38 diff not a rover diff.

It seems the op has a lot to learn about diffs.

[Doc130]

No ****, just mentioning my experience with maxi drive locking differentials!

[isuzurover]

No ****, just mentioning my experience with maxi drive locking differentials!

I really wonder wtf you were posting in this thread then. An md locker leaves the same (weak) crownwheel and pinion in place. A p38 centre is stronger than a rover centre despite the downgrade in pinion spacing.

I have witnessed countless rover rear crownwheel and pinion sets grenade despite md centres.

[Doc130]

To be honest, regardless of what diff it is, it's the dickhead behind the wheel in most cases!!!!

[85 county]

i guess the point is. if you have a sals, sick with it, locker is the same $$$ for ether diff. and you end up with a better result in the end. or you can spend a lot more $$ on a rover and get close to a sals. wasted money.

as for ground clearance, just shave it, plenty of posts on doing that. simple easy and cheep

any other option is a down grade. plenty of people have gotten away with it, plenty have not.


better to spend the money on the front diff, and that will be more expensive if you have the wide sub 10 spline diff to start with

[isuzurover]

i guess the point is. if you have a sals, sick with it, locker is the same $$$ for ether diff. ...

For maxi drive lockers the sals kit was much cheaper, $1100 vs 1800 for a rover kit. That is because md (now mr auto) modify the existing centre rather than replace it.

[discoRRc]

can I run 35s on a stock Salisbury with maxi axles?

[PAT303]

A good mate of mine,an ex Para has a maxi in the rear of his RRC,he is the roughest driver I've ever met and he hasn't broken the thing even though he's had years trying,he also fits 35'' tyres for offroad trips.Shaving a sals does stuff all,10 or 12mm,wow,if I wanted that I'd put an extra 5psi in the tyres. Pat

[discoRRc]

A good mate of mine,an ex Para has a maxi in the rear of his RRC,he is the roughest driver I've ever met and he hasn't broken the thing even though he's had years trying,he also fits 35'' tyres for offroad trips.Shaving a sals does stuff all,10 or 12mm,wow,if I wanted that I'd put an extra 5psi in the tyres. Pat

Yeh, i think its being a bit over exagerated that rover diffs are **** weak, sure they are when there stock, but with a maxi drive there bullet proof, my dads been running front and rear maxis in his 91 disco for years, and theyve never broken or failed, and thyve been put under amazing amounts of stress

[GuyG]

For maxi drive lockers the sals kit was much cheaper, $1100 vs 1800 for a rover kit. That is because md (now mr auto) modify the existing centre rather than replace it.

How long ago was the $1100 for the Salisbury MD and is this just supply or just fitting? Last time I looked into it, it was going to be over $3000 to buy and install a Salisbury MD Locker.

I had considered transferring the 28 spline MD lockers from the RRC to the 110, mainly because I already have them so there is minimal outlay and then I have a more legally modifiable vehicle with better range for touring. Its just its less comfortable.

[85 county]

can I run 35s on a stock Salisbury with maxi axles?

easy, i run 33 12.5 15 daily, and thats with stock axles

[MLD]

In 2011 I paid about $1800 for a sals maxi with axles (supplied) and another ton to install ($2,800 supply and fit).

Yes a stock sals will handle 35" rubber. And yes a rover diff with an aftermarket centre will handle 35" rubber. Plenty of RRCs and defenders running around on 35" rubber. I'd recommend changing your C&P ratio if you go 35". It's a lot of rubber for a 200Tdi and R380 to turn on stock ratios. After all it's when you are in low range that you want the correct ratios. If you do any technical crawling you might find the stock ratios too tall.

sals C&P next to a rover C&P.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/202.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/308.jpg

If you plan to buy a sals equipped truck it seems odd to me to go to a rover or P38 diff. Having gone the other way I pulled out the P38 housing from my Puma 130 and bolted in the sals. Sure i lose clearance but the diff will still be turning long after I've lost my license from old age and infirmity.

MLD

[PAT303]

No one is saying the rover is as strong as a sals,just the sals is over board for a diff,LR missed the boat with diff's,60 years ago they should have hypoid the rover with Ashcroft sized CW&P and axles and be done with it. Pat

[discoRRc]

When i buy it, i think the plan will be just to run 33s on the stock diffs, until i can source front and rear rover maxis with 4.11 gears then ill put the 35s on

[isuzurover]

How long ago was the $1100 for the Salisbury MD and is this just supply or just fitting?...

That was late 90's. Supply only - I installed myself.

My point was that an MD locker for a sals was ~$700 less than the rover equivalent, because the rover needed a new 4140/4340 6-gear (2 pinion shaft) case, whereas the sals already had that - it just needed somewhere for the locking dog to engage.

The CW&P failures I am referring to were mostly LROCB members from 1995-2005, usually running 33's and 3.54 diffs with MD lockers. Many swapped to sals axles because they got sick of rebuilding diff centres. This was of course before the ashcroft gears became available. However we are talking a serious $$$ investment to get a rover diff to get anywhere near the strength of a sals.

[frantic]

Basically MLD's pic tells a thousand tales. It is also the reason when I went to look for my defender I looked at nothing younger than a 2003 as that's when they stopped putting sals in 110's.
Your looking at the expensive route also. Why go air locker, 1800, air compressor, 2-500, installation, hole in diff, axles 6-800, end caps, rover or p38 diff$$$?, diff guard, diff strengthen$$$? etc The cheaper and easier alternative is Hy-tuff axles/ end caps in the sals , about $800 and a Detroit locker from lucky8 at around 650 delivered depending upon exchange rate.
Now with a Detroit and a sals you don't need air that can fail, tubes that can pop or block and the only time I've noticed it was on off camber roundabouts going a bit to heavy on the juice , or with 1 flat tyre, which probably prevented me being in an accident.
http://lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=3341

But I would also love to get a max/Ashcroft ATB/locker for my front diff as well. :)

[Drover]

So what makes a maxi centre so much better/stronger than a Ashcroft locker centre ?

[isuzurover]

So what makes a maxi centre so much better/stronger than a Ashcroft locker centre ?

I don't think anyone has said that??? All replacement diff centres for a rover diff increase the strength of the diff by about the same amount, since they are similar construction and are all 2-pin (4 pinion gear) diffs. In fact some people have broken MD rover carriers - likely through fatigue/age...

However the locking mechanisms differ between designs, and some have preferences for one or the other.

I have both MD and ARB lockers, and find they both work well, but each have disadvantages.

McNamara/TJM Prolocker is probably the best design technically, however supply is apparently an issue...?

[manchild21000]

They are available


Jack McNamara - Differential Specialists (http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/difflock1.html)

[discoRRc]

They are available


Jack McNamara - Differential Specialists (http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/difflock1.html)


I had been looking at the jack macs, but I was told they no longer make the vacuum lockers. if they do make them, I reckon that's the best thing other than maxis.

[Doc130]

Maxi drive lockers are the most superior lockers for land rovers, cannot even be compared to an arb locker!

[PAT303]

KAM have a new LR locker also that doesn't need all the fab work to fit. Pat

[noogie]

Im going get either a Isuzu or 200 tdi, but I was planning to swap out the Salisbury for a rover diff. now I guess im going to have to wait for second hand one to pop up

Why would you swap a salisbury for a rover diff???
You will be going from a great diff to IMO an average one.
The only benefit will be extra clearance, however I'd rather reliability any day.

I actually swapped my P38 rear diff for a sals and put a maxi drive rear locker in 2 years ago. So you can get them.

If you change your diff to a rover diff, you will have to change rear prop shaft and I think the axles are different. I had to change my rear shaft and axles when I went to the sals.

[Drover]

Maxi drive lockers are the most superior lockers for land rovers, cannot even be compared to an arb locker!

So, what make a Maxi Drive locker supierer to an Ashcroft, interested in the reasons for your claim ?

[rick130]

Shaving a sals does stuff all,10 or 12mm,wow,if I wanted that I'd put an extra 5psi in the tyres. Pat

Bloody hell Pat !

19-20mm is easy to take off a Sals without compromising strength or needing any welding.

Makes it within 5mm of a Rover diff.
You can take anything up to another 1" off a Sals if you want to get tricky.

You just wouldn't remove a functioning Sals and fit a Rover diff, it just defies logic.

[rick130]

So, what make a Maxi Drive locker supierer to an Ashcroft, interested in the reasons for your claim ?


It isn't IMO, but you can't get an Ashcroft locker for a Sals.

You can get a Harrop-Eaton e-locker as well as the TJM Pro-Locker, which is based on the Jack Mc unit.

[noogie]

They are available


Jack McNamara - Differential Specialists (http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/difflock1.html)

I agree Jack McNamara makes a good locker, just try getting one.
Good luck!

His service and customer focus is rubbish.
I waited 3 months for him to make a locker for me and he couldn't care less when I told him to forget it.

I'll never go back there.

Dave Ashcroft on the otherhand is the complete opposite.
He actually gives a damn, and your goods arrive within 5 working days from UK.

[PAT303]

Bloody hell Pat !

19-20mm is easy to take off a Sals without compromising strength or needing any welding.

Makes it within 5mm of a Rover diff.
You can take anything up to another 1" off a Sals if you want to get tricky.

You just wouldn't remove a functioning Sals and fit a Rover diff, it just defies logic.

The problem is Rick everyone looses their heads on simple matters,if I broke my P38 diff for arguments sake why would I go to all the trouble of finding and fitting a sals when I can buy off the shelf an Ashcrofts P38 diff and axles that are simply plug and play remembering my vehicle is used for touring?.If I had a D1/RRC again why stuff around when Ashcroft rover centres with upgraded CW&P,pinned CW axles etc are bolt in?.Personally I find it hard to understand why people find the need to go completely overboard when better than 90% of people on this forum use thier vehicles as daily drivers,towing rigs or tourers in regards to upgrades,look at the locker thread,T/C combined with an ATB type centre is without doubt the best option based on price,effectiveness,ease of use and on outback roads you use them constantly but lockers which can't be reign suppreme,don't forget also many people are not interested in spending their weekends underneath their LR,I don't,I hate it and I've been a fitter for 25 years,I'd rather a bolt in fit and go travelling.I want to ask also,why did Telstra go the P38 over the sals in thier field service 130's?,a rover or P38 will break but they will still get you home. Pat

[PAT303]

Bloody hell Pat !

19-20mm is easy to take off a Sals without compromising strength or needing any welding.

Makes it within 5mm of a Rover diff.
You can take anything up to another 1" off a Sals if you want to get tricky.

You just wouldn't remove a functioning Sals and fit a Rover diff, it just defies logic.

I thought you'd like the 5 psi bit,I'm supprised it didn't get a bigger bite:D:D:D:D. Pat

[Doc130]

Hi drover, Ashcroft components are bulletproof, however you still need to run a compressor to activate, maxidrive uses vacuume to activate. Arb lockers, which also use a compressor are renowned for blowing the internal seal for the airlines, in some cases you can end up with oil back up the air lines, Ashcroft May have this issue sorted I'm not sure. But the Other thing that is brilliant about maxidrive is that there is a light the comes on only if the locker is actually engaged not just when you push the button, you actually know when the diff locks up, and unlocks which is handy. Ashcroft components are great I just like these couple of differences personally.

[isuzurover]

Hi drover, Ashcroft components are bulletproof, however you still need to run a compressor to activate, maxidrive uses vacuume to activate. Arb lockers, which also use a compressor are renowned for blowing the internal seal for the airlines, in some cases you can end up with oil back up the air lines, Ashcroft May have this issue sorted I'm not sure. But the Other thing that is brilliant about maxidrive is that there is a light the comes on only if the locker is actually engaged not just when you push the button, you actually know when the diff locks up, and unlocks which is handy. Ashcroft components are great I just like these couple of differences personally.

The MD locker light only tells you the locker has started unlocking, not finished.
The ARB seal issue is a non-issue these days. 99% of the time it was down to faulty installation.

MD, ARB, Jacmac and Ashcroft are all good quality and reliable.

[rick130]

The problem is Rick everyone looses their heads on simple matters,if I broke my P38 diff for arguments sake why would I go to all the trouble of finding and fitting a sals when I can buy off the shelf an Ashcrofts P38 diff and axles that are simply plug and play remembering my vehicle is used for touring?.If I had a D1/RRC again why stuff around when Ashcroft rover centres with upgraded CW&P,pinned CW axles etc are bolt in?.Personally I find it hard to understand why people find the need to go completely overboard when better than 90% of people on this forum use thier vehicles as daily drivers,towing rigs or tourers in regards to upgrades,look at the locker thread,T/C combined with an ATB type centre is without doubt the best option based on price,effectiveness,ease of use and on outback roads you use them constantly but lockers which can't be reign suppreme,don't forget also many people are not interested in spending their weekends underneath their LR,I don't,I hate it and I've been a fitter for 25 years,I'd rather a bolt in fit and go travelling.I want to ask also,why did Telstra go the P38 over the sals in thier field service 130's?,a rover or P38 will break but they will still get you home. Pat
If I had a P38 style rear end and it failed I'd use the Ashcroft hypoid centre too.

The Telstra Rover rear ends were the Wolf ones, really, really heavily trussed and braced.

Ross/130man has one, it's bloody impressive.

[Doc130]

With a md the light does indicate when the locker is on or off regardless when you push the button to activate/deactivate unlike arb, ashcroft etc? To put it simply, when you push the button on arb locker the light on the switch is on, that doesn't mean the locker is engaged, with a maxi- drive you pull the swith the light doesn't come on until the locker engages, this is handy to know before you enter an obstacle so it doesn't engage when the wheel goes to spin, which can cause damage. Than whist using a locker you generally get wind up in the diff. So with an arb, ashcroft locker, when you turn off the switch the light goes out, that doesn't mean the lockers disengaged. With a md the light goes out when its disengaging meaning it cannot lock from this point, For those that are not aware the Best way to disengage any diff lock and centre lock in a defender is to deactivate the front/rear difflock or centre lock, the same applies,put it in reverse and go full lock. So basically reverse in a big circle, this somewhat helps reversing the effects of wind up when diff locks are engaged making it easier to unlock diffs. At the end of the day it's not a huge thing but I believe is a good thing as to actually know if your locker is working or not, not guessing!

[isuzurover]

With a md the light does indicate when the locker is on or off regardless when you push the button to activate/deactivate ...

I know what you are trying to say, the only problem is you are not quite correct.

This may help...

The two bolded bits are contradictory!!!

As explained, the light turns on when the locker is fully engaged and the actuator piston touches the isolated bolt that provides -ve to the light. However, when unlocking, as soon as the piston starts to move away from the bolt, contact is lost, the light turns off, but the piston still needs to move another 1" or so until the diff is unlocked.


EDIT - I have attached a pic which hopefully makes things clear.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/80900d1405945880-maxi-drives-maxi_drive_light.jpg

Because MD lockers work off low pressure (vacuum) and have the longest spline engagement of any locker (which is a good thing) they are slower to fully engage or disengage than other lockers. The light goes out long before the locker is fully disengaged.

[goanna_shire]

This is the right link here.

Maxi Drive (http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d3153.html)

Cheers,
Brian.

[Doc130]

This is true isuzurover! However I believe its still a better setup than just a light that comes on with a switch. Md gives a much better "indication" of locker engagement or disengagement at the end of the day.

[MLD]

If I had a P38 style rear end and it failed I'd use the Ashcroft hypoid centre too.

Something to keep in mind for the present time is that Ashcroft have only the 3.54 C&P for hypoid unit. If you are planning to change ratios, say to accommodate larger rubber, it's not a one stop shop fix. No doubt if the hypoid unit gathers popularity and there is a demand Ashcroft will come out with a range of ratios.

I'm a +1 for having pulled the P38 from my Puma 130 and bolted in a sals. I had a sals set up with a MD locker so it made sense and in light of the hypoid unit not accommodating different C&P it was not an option for me. As for ditching the sals because you want clearance, that makes no sense to me. I'm happy to give up clearance for peace of mind that the sals will be turning years after i have lost my license from old age and infirmity.

As for the argument which locker unit is better. It's all hog wash. Each unit will do what 99.9% of the forum members require of it. It comes down to budget and personal preferences. Save your coins, buy the unit that best suits your needs and don't skimp on (arguable) necessities like axles and flanges.

Doc130, gotta ask, do you have a MD locker? Just curious as to the origin of your deep rooted passion for that brand.

MLD

[PAT303]

MLD,do you drive around Picton or Wedderburn?,that was a common place for us to go as it's all sandstone steps that really worked the suspension,same as Porters Road at Dural or Heart break ridge at Bowral,you tube them and see what you find,I'm saying this because clearance is an issue with the sals,watch the video's because I was the only one with a sals diff and I was the only one who constantly got hung up because of it,it's pretty ordinary for a then new Defender to get stuck when a '66 2a walked through,I went to 255/85's to match a rover on 7.50x16's. Pat

[MLD]

MLD,do you drive around Picton or Wedderburn?,that was a common place for us to go as it's all sandstone steps that really worked the suspension,same as Porters Road at Dural or Heart break ridge at Bowral,you tube them and see what you find,I'm saying this because clearance is an issue with the sals,watch the video's because I was the only one with a sals diff and I was the only one who constantly got hung up because of it,it's pretty ordinary for a then new Defender to get stuck when a '66 2a walked through,I went to 255/85's to match a rover on 7.50x16's. Pat

Pat, there is no arguing with you that clearance with the sals is an issue. I often find myself caught up where the P38 rear diff drivers don't have problems. All i was trying to convey was that I'm prepared to give up clearance for peace of mind that the sals will get me home even if it has lost teeth material and is worse for wear.

There are options with the sals to regain some clearance, which i'm yet to employ. Driving a 130 i also suffer ramp over limitations on technical rock crawling.

I don't care as much about getting caught on a rock challenge. Reverse out and pick another line or ask the fairies to pack a rock or 2. I do lament the sals in mud bogs when you get caught in stinky water. As such I'd forge a new track to avoid a mud hole.

If the primary purpose of your truck is touring then a sals is great for your needs. It's strong and save for those rare failures from fatigue they seem to hold up to the punishment of outback touring. If you are building a truck to primarily be a weekend warrior then the clearance is an issue but the standard rover and P38 diff will require love and attention to make it as reliable as the sals. For the later type of truck the owner is not going to be satisfied with a bog stock standard truck so new diff centres, pegging etc are on the cards. Keeping in mind that most people with newer trucks (that have TC) will be adverse to panel damage (unless you are stupid like me and push it too far).

I have ventured from the topic of the OP. The OP said he was after a 200 Tdi or Isuzu. There is a real possibility he will fall into the weekend warrior category and the truck becomes a work in progress. Notwithstanding that, i did pick the sals over the P38 and if required to make that choice again, i'd repeat it, clearance deficits and all.

MLD

[discoRRc]

Pat, there is no arguing with you that clearance with the sals is an issue. I often find myself caught up where the P38 rear diff drivers don't have problems. All i was trying to convey was that I'm prepared to give up clearance for peace of mind that the sals will get me home even if it has lost teeth material and is worse for wear.

There are options with the sals to regain some clearance, which i'm yet to employ. Driving a 130 i also suffer ramp over limitations on technical rock crawling.

I don't care as much about getting caught on a rock challenge. Reverse out and pick another line or ask the fairies to pack a rock or 2. I do lament the sals in mud bogs when you get caught in stinky water. As such I'd forge a new track to avoid a mud hole.

If the primary purpose of your truck is touring then a sals is great for your needs. It's strong and save for those rare failures from fatigue they seem to hold up to the punishment of outback touring. If you are building a truck to primarily be a weekend warrior then the clearance is an issue but the standard rover and P38 diff will require love and attention to make it as reliable as the sals. For the later type of truck the owner is not going to be satisfied with a bog stock standard truck so new diff centres, pegging etc are on the cards. Keeping in mind that most people with newer trucks (that have TC) will be adverse to panel damage (unless you are stupid like me and push it too far).

I have ventured from the topic of the OP. The OP said he was after a 200 Tdi or Isuzu. There is a real possibility he will fall into the weekend warrior category and the truck becomes a work in progress. Notwithstanding that, i did pick the sals over the P38 and if required to make that choice again, i'd repeat it, clearance deficits and all.

MLD

yeah, the truck is going to be the weekend warrior, as well as my everyday driver.. haha, I have no problem giving a rover diff a little more love and attention(money), because with the majority of 4x4ing we do, diff clearance is a major factor. now for another question.. I was looking at Ashcroft diff locks until a few people told me their quality is shocking, and too fix the problems with them you have to send them back to the uk which costs a fortune. not sure if this is true or not?

[85 county]

i think the main point is that, eather a 200 tdi or isuzu will come std with a Sals dif. so why swap it out

better than that it will come with the wide stubs as well

[rick130]

yeah, the truck is going to be the weekend warrior, as well as my everyday driver.. haha, I have no problem giving a rover diff a little more love and attention(money), because with the majority of 4x4ing we do, diff clearance is a major factor. now for another question.. I was looking at Ashcroft diff locks until a few people told me their quality is shocking, and too fix the problems with them you have to send them back to the uk which costs a fortune. not sure if this is true or not?
AFAIK Ashcrofts have never had a locker failure anywhere in the world.
Not sure who has been getting in your ear....

[Dopey]

AFAIK Ashcrofts have never had a locker failure anywhere in the world.
Not sure who has been getting in your ear....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1978789-post33.html

Post above from this thread below

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/180942-front-locker-ashcroft-lokka-post1978789.html#post1978789

Mike.

[Drover]

I have Ashcroft's front and rear lockers with HD C&W's (front pegged) (Rear HDP38 hypoid) also their half shafts/drive flanges/CV's

Some bits been in for 3 years, others about 12 months.

Never an issue small or large.

I also know of several others with multiple Ashcroft bits and again never a problem.

For me there is no question about Ashcroft's quality.

[Ancient Mariner]

if your getting truetracs be advised that the front and rear units are different, you cant swap front for rear.(from the link)

When I ordered my Tru Trac I didn't mention front or rear and as was for the front of a 9" possibly not available anyway There is a fairly simple procedure to swap the gears around to suit.I couldn't see a reason why the rear wouldn't work in the front anyway .Have yet to find in about 4000k any adverse effect running as supplied:o No doubt I am going to be informed otherwise:D

So thanks in advance R:D

[isuzurover]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1978789-post33.html

Post above from this thread below

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/180942-front-locker-ashcroft-lokka-post1978789.html#post1978789

Mike.

That post is a pile of unsubstantiated BS.

[Dopey]

Yep, I know and agree.....
DiscoRRC seems to think that Ashcroft are not a very good product, Rick130 said "not sure who's getting in your ear" about them....
As far as I know, (and I may be mistaken) the post that I referenced to was written by DiscoRRC's father (?) Steve223, who has been advised by an US based seller (who as twr7cx pointed out) doesn't sell Ashcroft products, that the Ashcroft lockers/ATB's are no good.

So it seems that DiscoRRC (not having a go at him) has heard through his father (?) that Ashcroft stuff is no good?

There is no harm in asking a question though as to whether a product is any good, however still perpetuating the myth that they are no good and non rebuild able products does a good company and products harm.

Mike.

[discoRRc]

Yep, I know and agree.....
DiscoRRC seems to think that Ashcroft are not a very good product, Rick130 said "not sure who's getting in your ear" about them....
As far as I know, (and I may be mistaken) the post that I referenced to was written by DiscoRRC's father (?) Steve223, who has been advised by an US based seller (who as twr7cx pointed out) doesn't sell Ashcroft products, that the Ashcroft lockers/ATB's are no good.

So it seems that DiscoRRC (not having a go at him) has heard through his father (?) that Ashcroft stuff is no good?

There is no harm in asking a question though as to whether a product is any good, however still perpetuating the myth that they are no good and non rebuild able products does a good company and products harm.

Mike.





steve223 isn't my farther, and I actually haven't heard anything from him about Ashcroft quality. I don't seem to think Ashcroft is a bad product, I was looking to find what peoples experiences with them are, because I've heard some people say its absolute rubbish, but I've also heard people who swear by them..

[Dopey]

Apologies then, I, as I said May be mistaken.....
I thought that I had read a post where you referenced him as your father....

Anyways, Ashcroft, yes people do swear by them (they work well).
Some people also swear at them while trying to fit them....

Anyways, once again, I apologise for the stuff up and misinformation.

Back to your original posts, are you still planning a rover diff or a sals?

Have you decided on either a Isuzu or a 200tdi?
Also why not a 300tdi?

Mike.

Edit, and apologies to Steve223 as well.

[discoRRc]

Apologies then, I, as I said May be mistaken.....
I thought that I had read a post where you referenced him as your father....

Anyways, Ashcroft, yes people do swear by them (they work well).
Some people also swear at them while trying to fit them....

Anyways, once again, I apologise for the stuff up and misinformation.

Back to your original posts, are you still planning a rover diff or a sals?

Have you decided on either a Isuzu or a 200tdi?
Also why not a 300tdi?

Mike.

Edit, and apologies to Steve223 as well.


yeh no worries man.


well I want to get a 110 ute, im pretty sure they made Isuzu utes but they're rare as hens teeth, so I doubt ill be able to get one. ill probably end up getting a 200 tdi because I plan on putting a Isuzu in it eventually and im not sure if you can do the conversion with 300tdis, due to emission laws.


with the diffs, ill probably run the stock diffs until I can find front and rear rover maxis with 4.11 gears so I can run 35s.. or bigger.


do you think a sals at the rear with stock axles and drive flanges will be able to run 305/70/16s ? same with the front?

[isuzutoo-eh]

yeh no worries man.


well I want to get a 110 ute, im pretty sure they made Isuzu utes but they're rare as hens teeth, so I doubt ill be able to get one. ill probably end up getting a 200 tdi because I plan on putting a Isuzu in it eventually and im not sure if you can do the conversion with 300tdis, due to emission laws.


with the diffs, ill probably run the stock diffs until I can find front and rear rover maxis with 4.11 gears so I can run 35s.. or bigger.


do you think a sals at the rear with stock axles and drive flanges will be able to run 305/70/16s ? same with the front?

A stock Sals will absolutely be fine with the tyres you describe. The front diff, axles and CVs will suffer more than a stock sals with stock axles and flanges.
Why you'd go for that tyre size if you're really that worried about diff clearance is beyond me though, a 255/85/16 is taller, a massive quarter of an inch diameter no less!

Edit: I ran 255/85/16s for years with standard front and rear components, even after the Detroit locker was put in the back, the axles and flanges survived (stock flanges are still in use on the rear) with typical Hawkesbury sandstone rock step driving. I broke a front short axle prior to fitting an ATB and aftermarket axles, but the tyres had been on the car for 25,00km or so when the axle broke. Haven't broken a rear axle but upgraded to HTE anyway.

[discoRRc]

a 305/70/16 is just a 33" but slightly wider then a 285/75/16 isn't it

[MLD]

... I referenced to was written by DiscoRRC's father (?) Steve223,

That's way funny. Steve just aged 15 years with a few taps of the keyboard.

discoRRC - If your intention in the long term is an Isuzu I would have thought strength to handle the torque of the engine would be a higher priority than clearance. Especially if you plan to fit 35" or bigger rubber.

Not sure if its a typo but a 305/70R16 is about 32.7". Assuming you mean 35" rubber on stock rear axles, i wouldn't. Others presently do. Most people upgrade to HD rear axles and flanges. It's a weak point that you need to be mindful of if enthusiasm becomes you.

When planning your mods keep in mind the high school physics theory: for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.

Build your truck for reliability. Build your truck so you get home under your own steam at the end of the day. You can always pack the track for clearance if it's wanting. Stopping to put a rock in a hole is quicker and cheaper than repairing breakages trackside. Sods law says it happens at the end of the day. Also, you don't want to be that mate who is forever breaking stuff and holding up the crew.

MLD

[discoRRc]

That's way funny. Steve just aged 15 years with a few taps of the keyboard.

discoRRC - If your intention in the long term is an Isuzu I would have thought strength to handle the torque of the engine would be a higher priority than clearance. Especially if you plan to fit 35" or bigger rubber.

Not sure if its a typo but a 305/70R16 is about 32.7". Assuming you mean 35" rubber on stock rear axles, i wouldn't. Others presently do. Most people upgrade to HD rear axles and flanges. It's a weak point that you need to be mindful of if enthusiasm becomes you.

When planning your mods keep in mind the high school physics theory: for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.

Build your truck for reliability. Build your truck so you get home under your own steam at the end of the day. You can always pack the track for clearance if it's wanting. Stopping to put a rock in a hole is quicker and cheaper than repairing breakages trackside. Sods law says it happens at the end of the day. Also, you don't want to be that mate who is forever breaking stuff and holding up the crew.

MLD

the Isuzu will go in after I have maxis front and rear, im only going to run the 33s until I get the front and rear maxis as well, then ill put on the 35s

[Dopey]

That's way funny. Steve just aged 15 years with a few taps of the keyboard.

MLD

:(:(:(
That was why I put the question mark there....
As I stated, I believed after reading some posts that Steve223 was DiscoRRC's father..... Not the case, apologies to all. :)

Anyways, maybe for the front axle....

Defender Front Heavy Duty Axle Salisbury axle VERY RARE [RHD] | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121430017902)

For a complete axle set, or,

Defender Front Heavy Duty Axle Salisbury axle VERY RARE [RHD] | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111468577790)

A bit cheaper, but not as much bolt on bits.

Mike.

Of course for a bit more clearance you could always pluck it, wax it, or shave it.... Whatever it is that those with sals do for more clearance.

[Dopey]

Or don't worry about diff clearance and strength anymore?

Landrover and Range rover off road portal axles | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141422867124)

Just use mog axles....

Mike.

[MLD]

i got really excited by the portal ebay post until i realised it's in the UK (and unimog).

My wife needs a step to get into the 130 now. She would crack the poos with portals.

MLD

[MLD]

for GBP5,500 i should get my sister to buy this and when they move out to Oz in 2015 bring it with them. I'd make a tidy profit selling it in Oz.

NISSAN PATROL MONSTER TRUCK 4.2 DIESEL GR PORTAL AXLES 7 SEATS 4X4 OFF / ON ROAD | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-MONSTER-TRUCK-4-2-DIESEL-GR-PORTAL-AXLES-7-SEATS-4X4-OFF-ON-ROAD-/371141998999?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item5669c97997)

MLD

[Red90]

Something to keep in mind for the present time is that Ashcroft have only the 3.54 C&P for hypoid unit.

What is this Ashcroft hypoid unit? Do you mean the Force 9 axles that do not exist any more?

[Dopey]

What is this Ashcroft hypoid unit? Do you mean the Force 9 axles that do not exist any more?


Pictures of the HDP38 diff here. (A little way down the page)

What's New? (http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d709.html)

And posts number 312 (by chook73) & 315 (by drover) on this thread.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/144708-life-puma-rear-diffs.html

I don't see the diff anymore on the Ashcroft website?

Mike.

[isuzurover]

What is this Ashcroft hypoid unit? Do you mean the Force 9 axles that do not exist any more?

Ashcroft has designed a hypoid bolt-in replacement for the p38 ccentre. IRC they may have had some teething problems with the cw&p sets though.

[Steve223]

Followed the discussion and agree with disoRRC, diff clearance is an issue and 3cm more clearance can make quite a difference. While I can't speak from experience as my rover diff with MD has not broken I'm wondering who actually has had a broken a rover diff with MD??? My friend Greg who is a LRA mechanic for many years has yet to see a broken rover diff with MD locker.

[Steve223]

steve223 isn't my farther, and I actually haven't heard anything from him about Ashcroft quality. I don't seem to think Ashcroft is a bad product, I was looking to find what peoples experiences with them are, because I've heard some people say its absolute rubbish, but I've also heard people who swear by them..

To clarify yes I was told this at the time from someone who wanted my business but I have a Ashcroft air locker in rear and a Ashcroft ATB in the front on my D2 and I'm very happy with it. Ashcroft also provides a excellent service and is great to deal with. I have no problems buying Ashcroft gear.

Still prefer my MD lockers in the Defender though as there is no way a air leak can make it inoperable.

[isuzurover]

Followed the discussion and agree with disoRRC, diff clearance is an issue and 3cm more clearance can make quite a difference. While I can't speak from experience as my rover diff with MD has not broken I'm wondering who actually has had a broken a rover diff with MD??? My friend Greg who is a LRA mechanic for many years has yet to see a broken rover diff with MD locker.

As I posted previously I have seen several 3.54 crownwheel and pinion sets fail on md equipped rover diffs. There have also been a few pictures posted on here of md rover cases which have failed.

[landrover dave]

M R Automotive have always made the maxi drive for Salibury diffs, they started production on Rover diffs about 18 months ago. KAM make a good locker, so does Ashcroft but only for rover diffs. Eaton E Locker is available for both. Or you can lower yourself to an air leaker.

[Steve223]

wondering whether you can get the MD also as pegged diffs similar to Ashcroft

[Red90]

Ashcroft has designed a hypoid bolt-in replacement for the p38 ccentre. IRC they may have had some teething problems with the cw&p sets though.

Ahh. The blog entry from Ashcroft is 17 months ago and there is no product for sale..... People are talking on here as if it is something you can purchase....

Why would they not just have used a Toyota 8" CW&P as has been done before.....and make a bolt in casing with pinning facility built in and adapters to use a Rover center or ARB 24 spline side hears or there own center? That route makes a lot of sense. Lots of low cost CW&P available at a variety of ratios. And, yes, I do know that Jack Mac has been doing this for many years.

[Red90]

wondering whether you can get the MD also as pegged diffs similar to Ashcroft

This certainly seems to make a big difference especially with the newer, stronger crown wheels.

[rick130]

Ahh. The blog entry from Ashcroft is 17 months ago and there is no product for sale..... People are talking on here as if it is something you can purchase....

Why would they not just have used a Toyota 8" CW&P as has been done before.....and make a bolt in casing with pinning facility built in and adapters to use a Rover center or ARB 24 spline side hears or there own center? That route makes a lot of sense. Lots of low cost CW&P available at a variety of ratios. And, yes, I do know that Jack Mac has been doing this for many years.
'Cause plenty of blokes on here have bought and run the P38 hypoid centre ??!!

There was a problem with some CWP's that were noisy, but I think that's been addressed.

[ashtrans]

Ahh. The blog entry from Ashcroft is 17 months ago and there is no product for sale..... People are talking on here as if it is something you can purchase....

Why would they not just have used a Toyota 8" CW&P as has been done before.....and make a bolt in casing with pinning facility built in and adapters to use a Rover center or ARB 24 spline side hears or there own center? That route makes a lot of sense. Lots of low cost CW&P available at a variety of ratios. And, yes, I do know that Jack Mac has been doing this for many years.

Just heading out the door for a bushcraft weekend with the kids, will respond when I get back,

Dave

[chook73]

Ahh. The blog entry from Ashcroft is 17 months ago and there is no product for sale..... People are talking on here as if it is something you can purchase....

I have the Aschroft HDP38 and swear by it, there is no way I would go back, there were some teething problems with it whining on deceleration however Dave Ashcroft got in touch with my mechanic in Australia and had the diff sent for relapping. This combined with a bit of time and you can barely hear it and thats only at 40km/h, it is a lot quitter than the the other noises the defender puts out.

There is no question about the quality of Dave's products, at the end of last month he had sold 3,000 diff locks with zero failures. He gives a 5 year brakage warranty on his half shafts as well. Not many people stand behind products like he does (if they did I would probably still have portals!)......