Dave_S
26th September 2014, 08:32 AM
Hi All,
In this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/205624-diy-air-con-heater-engine-bay-county-110-a.html
bee utey says "There is a common type of heater valve that has four hose connections and when off allows full bypass flow without the heater. They were used on the '94 V8 RRC, Commodore VS to VY V6 (16mm hoses) and some V8 Falcons (19mm hoses). They have a vacuum actuator which can be operated either by a vac solenoid or a cable after removing the vac pot."
I've taken the air-con out of my County and want to install a standard heater unit sourced from a V8 County. I've pulled that apart to put in a new heater core and insulating foam/gaskets, but it's pretty obvious that it won't seal very well and will get seriously hot if coolant flows through the matrix all the time.
This is especially so as I don't seem to have enough coolant ports at the thermostat housing, so I want to plumb the heater into the same line that cools the turbo (it's an Isuzu turbo). At least the heater will start working pretty fast in the morning :D
Anyway, I'd like to use a 4 way valve like the one bee utey talked about. I can guess that when switched one way, the coolant does a straight pass through, but the other way, it goes in and out of the heater core on its way through the valve. Is this correct, and does anyone have a diagram?
Cheers, Dave.
In this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/205624-diy-air-con-heater-engine-bay-county-110-a.html
bee utey says "There is a common type of heater valve that has four hose connections and when off allows full bypass flow without the heater. They were used on the '94 V8 RRC, Commodore VS to VY V6 (16mm hoses) and some V8 Falcons (19mm hoses). They have a vacuum actuator which can be operated either by a vac solenoid or a cable after removing the vac pot."
I've taken the air-con out of my County and want to install a standard heater unit sourced from a V8 County. I've pulled that apart to put in a new heater core and insulating foam/gaskets, but it's pretty obvious that it won't seal very well and will get seriously hot if coolant flows through the matrix all the time.
This is especially so as I don't seem to have enough coolant ports at the thermostat housing, so I want to plumb the heater into the same line that cools the turbo (it's an Isuzu turbo). At least the heater will start working pretty fast in the morning :D
Anyway, I'd like to use a 4 way valve like the one bee utey talked about. I can guess that when switched one way, the coolant does a straight pass through, but the other way, it goes in and out of the heater core on its way through the valve. Is this correct, and does anyone have a diagram?
Cheers, Dave.