Must Have camper Trailer features?

[Leroy_Riding]

I'm ready now to start turning my little trailer into a 'camper trailer'

so id like to get peoples opinions on what the 'must haves' are for a camper trailer. could be helpful for others who are looking to build there own also.

for me the 'tent' is not a must have in the camper trailer, I think a lot of people will disagree with me on that though.

for me the must have and near enough to the whole reason for my camper trailer build is to have a nice functional easy use Kitchen.

What are everyone else's 'Must haves' for a camper trailer?

The List:
1- Water on Board
1i- In Multiple separate/isolated containers/tanks
2- Gas
3- Lighting
4- Kitchen
4i- Must have ample preparation space
4ii- Must be able to be screened from insects
4iii- Protection for the cooking area from wind
4iiii- Awning to cover the cooking area
5- Not Cost more than 50% of Tow vehicles value
6- On board AGM deep cycle Battery system
7- Solar Charging for on board electrical system
8- Fridge/Freezer
8i- must be easy to access

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Probably not what you are after, but I would say a trailer must not cost more than half of what my truck is worth... ;)

[Leroy_Riding]

Id say that is a Pretty good one, though I'm sure there are members on here that are closer to truck worth half the camper 0_0
for me the goal is closer to 10% of the LR's value tops

Leroy.

[Geedublya]

Must have water, gas and lighting. Kitchen must be able to be screened from insects.

[TerryO]

1. A permanently fitted good quality solar (lots) and AGM battery system to power all electrical needs that charges from the sun while your driving as well as parked.

2. Lots of water storage in separate protected tanks that can be isolated and used individually with an isolation valve for each tank.

3. Dedicated easy to get to area for permanently fitted chest fridge/freezer.

4. Good slide out kitchen area that has protection for the cooker area from wind.

5. If no sleeping tent, which I actually understand, then a awning to cover the cooking and what also might be the eating area and as Geoff said screened from insects.

6. A good easy to connect hitch like a McHitch or a DO35 etc. that does not rattle and gives good articulation.

7. A long and strong enough draw bar that you can fit not only the spare to but a stone guard and a large enough tool / storage box too, which still gives reasonable access.

[pop058]

Same wheels, stud pattern and track as the tow vehicle

[Tank]

Short as practical drawbar so as trailer follows tow vehicle round sharp bends without cutting corners and damaging trailer. And so as you don't bottom drawbar and front of trailer on steep Eco drains and other obstructions, nothing low hanging at front or rear of trailer, Regards Frank.

[komaterpillar]

A bed, and some wheels would be handy. Sorry ha to do it.... I'll put a proper list together after I have a proper think about it :p

[weeds]

I'm on the iPad so no editing tools, look for KW responses


I'm ready now to start turning my little trailer into a 'camper trailer'



so id like to get peoples opinions on what the 'must haves' are for a camper trailer. could be helpful for others who are looking to build there own also.



for me the 'tent' is not a must have in the camper trailer, I think a lot of people will disagree with me on that though.
KW- not having a tent will make it difficult to cover and screen cooking area....I went with a roof top tent so that it can be moved from camper to 110 as required......drifter kitchens no make a camper trailer, have a look at their website for ideas.



for me the must have and near enough to the whole reason for my camper trailer build is to have a nice functional easy use Kitchen.
KW - I went drifter, yes expensive but at the time I didn't have time to build a kitchen....if you're handy with wood and have time a good kitchen could be knocked up



What are everyone else's 'Must haves' for a camper trailer?



The List:

1- Water on Board

1i- In Multiple separate/isolated containers/tanks
KW - I run just one tank, 72L. I am considering a second tank off about the same size

2- Gas
KW - keep this simple, don't worry about plumbing it in. I run 2 x 3kg cylinders, when one runs out you have plenty of time to have it topped up.

3- Lighting
KW - LED is the way to go, it's tempting to go overboard. I went to the trouble of installing 2 way switches so that we can control all the lighting from either the bed or kitchen area.

4- Kitchen

4i- Must have ample preparation space KW - drifter with return gives you stacked of space.

4ii- Must be able to be screened from insects KW- have never really needed screening to date........the tentage would assist with this

4iii- Protection for the cooking area from wind

4iiii- Awning to cover the cooking area KW - tentage again would make this easy

5- Not Cost more than 50% of Tow vehicles value
KW - mate you have a puma 50% of its value gives you plenty of dosh to set up camper

6- On board AGM deep cycle Battery system
KW - standard

7- Solar Charging for on board electrical system
KW - portable folding jobbie so you can park camper in shade and have a 10m lead. Fit reg at battery not a solar panel.....convert everything to Anderson plugs.

8- Fridge/Freezer

8i- must be easy to access


I have slowly added, deleted, modified as I have gone along.

From memory you have a series tub? So wheel track is the same?

I really rate the DO35

[PhilipA]

OK I will challenge some of your needs.

Do you really need a battery in the camper?
When do you ever use power in the camper when your car is not there so an easy plug in wire is IMHO good enough and light to boot and you don't have yet another battery to maintain when not using the camper.
I haven't missed it in 8years.
Awning over cooking are yeah.
I doubt whether you can have wind free cooking in all weather conditions if the stove is outside.
I don't have a fridge in mine. It is in the back of the car. Again weight , space etc and then no need for battery. My car is always there when we are camped, and the bonus is that the fridge has food and drinks when you are away on day trips.
Storage boxes for all the junk you accumulate are necessary. Hoses, brooms, dustpans, lights, spares boxes, Mr filter , fire lighters, wedges for levelling . If tent poles make accessable from outside. Only problem with mine.

If no gas fridge 1x4Kg cylinder will last easily 6 weeks and you can get gas anywhere. last lot I got was the Imintji Store on GRR and the bloke weighed it so it cost no more than they wanted in Broome. LOL

I second the Mc Hitch but I intend to get another "ball" before I go away next as idiots ruined mine in Kununurra and I had to wait 5 days for a new one.
Room for say 4 jerries if possible. I had 3 extra which got me 99% across the Nullarbor.
Preparation space? If married you will have to have a table so this is preparation space. 2 comfortable chairs that recline and pack up small and light but also high enough for the table.
GOOD DUST SEALING.
If married again and going for long period 240 volt plugs in and out for heater , fan , toaster, electric jug, Aldi coffee machine if at caravan parks.

I would add a great queen size bed that gives a great night sleep and accessible from the bottom, not the side, so you don't have to crawl over each other to go to the loo.
And my great wife and I just did a 3 month lap in our 1997 Camp'o'matic and we are still happy. With all of the above.

Regard sPhilip A

[Mick_Marsh]

KISS

Don't over complicate things.

What I did was get a trailer, put some drawers in it and then put a camper top on it.
My camper top was more complicated than I wanted.

[shining]

Back to basics...
I'm sure you have done this task at least in your head and maybe on paper.
Where do you want to go with your trailer?
Who will you be taking with you?
How much comfort do you need?
How long will you be away from civilisation?

A lot of your requirements will fall out of these questions.

All the suggestions here are sensible. Along with drawbar length consider the clear space between drawbar obstructions (boxes etc) and rear of vehicle to enable a sharp jack-knife when reversing to avoid damaging the tug.

[loanrangie]

KISS

Don't over complicate things.

What I did was get a trailer, put some drawers in it and then put a camper top on it.
My camper top was more complicated than I wanted.

That was my plan but then i would have to get off my arse and finish the trailer then buy a camper top, it was easier to buy a good pre used example - best $2100 i've spent.
I do like simple though but the wife and kids want a little more than simple.

[Hoges]

For a long trip in remote areas, a 4" vise can be a very useful device indeed! I welded a 4mm steel plate (100mm x 150mm) to the cross member on the draw bar and above which normally sit the spare wheels. The vise lives in a wooden box in the camper but can be retrieved and mounted on the plate with wing nuts in less than a minute.
My only advice is to NOT be too obvious if you have to use it while other campers are around... you may be swamped with beers by complete strangers vying to become your "new besty" while they carry out all manner of repairs using said vise... ;):D

[Leroy_Riding]

some good replies.

Questions around AGM and Tent.

for me Ill be running a second fridge in the trailer, so AGM to power that and all the lighting in the camper and to charge other things.
my AGM in the defender struggle after a few days stopped in one place and there really isn't enough room in the car for a third battery.
sure, add solar. . but what if you are setup camp and get hit with lame weather for a few days? I suppose I could run the car. . . but again easier to have the 3rd battery, also allows for more current draw if for some reason i need to use high power 240V accessories. . .

as far as tent goes, eventually ill put a roof top on mine, but its not a necessity swag or tent is fine, if I am on a trip where I will be stopping and going every day then ill get a RTT before I go and fit to the top of the trailer. but most of my camping is a few days in one place, sometimes take the car exploring while others stay a 'base camp' another reason for having on board power in the trailer.

Leroy.

[Hoges]

Most "240V accessories" are applicable in reality to mains power found in caravan parks as highlighted by PhillipA. If you want 240 volt luxury from a deep cell battery, remember even a modest 1000W toaster will draw about 100A (including efficiency losses from the inverter...remember: you can weld steel with 50 Amps !!) :o) So you need high capacity cables to feed the inverter...

With ALL 240 V in a camper, an earth leakage switch is a must... e.g. the orange 4 plug safety boxes used by a lot of tradies on building sites are ideal...

[Redback]

Here's my list;

100AH battery is fine, with 12v outlets, rig the battery up to charge from the car while driving through the ignition, that way you don't flatten the car battery.

If you don't have a fridge in the camper(one in the car will do) get a small solar panel(20w) to keep the battery topped up(our setup is like this)

If you do run a fridge in the trailer, you'll need bigger solar panels, never needed this so someone else will know more than us.

Water tank(60lts is fine) plumb it to the kitchen and have a filter from the tank to the tap and a small 12v pump is fine or even just a hand pump.

A good kitchen is a must, on a swing away tailgate, have a look at Drifta Kitchens.

Jerrycan holders for extra water.

9kg gas bottle holders (2 minimum)

12v lighting(LED is perfect)

A fully enclosable awning for flys and mozzies.

Stone guard for the front

Don't go over board.



Our setup is pretty basic;

12v is 100ah battery, this runs lights and water pump for the sink and shower, with a 20w solar panel the trickle charge the battery when camped.

2 9kg gas bottles

kitchen with sink.

12v and 240v outlets

3 jerry can holders across the front of the trailer

1 60ltr water tank

Never needed anything else, been like this for 11yrs almost now.

The question on bad weather when camped, if it does happen for more than 3 days or so, what I used to do was hook up an inverter to my second battery in the car and run a small 240v charger of it and charge the camper battery overnight, in your case with a fridge in the camper, it would be wise to turn the fridge off overnight while doing this, I have done this for 2 to 3 days in a row, keep in mind you'll need to go for a drive in the morning to charge the car up.

Baz.

[Mick_Marsh]

Most "240V accessories" are applicable in reality to mains power found in caravan parks as highlighted by PhillipA. If you want 240 volt luxury from a deep cell battery, remember even a modest 1000W toaster will draw about 100A (including efficiency losses from the inverter...remember: you can weld steel with 50 Amps !!) :o) So you need high capacity cables to feed the inverter...
With that in mind, you may consider a 24V system. 2 batteries in series. Halves the current. Can be charged from solar panels.
You might even be able to install a 24V generator in the car.
My Perentie, being a FFR, has a 24V system for the radios. I'll be using that for the inverter supplying 240V AC.

[PhilipA]

2 9kg gas bottles

Holy moly Batman, without a gas fridge that is enough for about 6 months cooking!
I got rid of one of my 4Kg bottles because they take up so much weight and space and 1x4Kg lasts about 6 weeks.
All you do is make sure the one is full before going into the bush, and it is rare to go 6 weeks let alone 6 months.
All you do to check them is open the valve a bit and see how much they tip before mist comes out.
You can get gas just about anywhere. I didn't fill in Broome as Swap
and Go had no dated/tested cylinders there and was able to get at the next stop which was of all places Imitji Store, and I still easily had enough for Mornington and on to Kununurra.
I am afraid I think it is overkill to have all that weight and bulk on the drawbar when not needed.
Regards Philip A

[Redback]

Holy moly Batman, without a gas fridge that is enough for about 6 months cooking!
I got rid of one of my 4Kg bottles because they take up so much weight and space and 1x4Kg lasts about 6 weeks.
All you do is make sure the one is full before going into the bush, and it is rare to go 6 weeks let alone 6 months.
All you do to check them is open the valve a bit and see how much they tip before mist comes out.
You can get gas just about anywhere. I didn't fill in Broome as Swap
and Go had no dated/tested cylinders there and was able to get at the next stop which was of all places Imitji Store, and I still easily had enough for Mornington and on to Kununurra.
I am afraid I think it is overkill to have all that weight and bulk on the drawbar when not needed.
Regards Philip A

We have a gas hotwater system for showers we used to have a 3 way fridge and heater, don't have the gas fridge anymore, have a second fridge in the daughters car, 1 fridge and a small esky if the daughter isn't with us.

It's really convenient having the 2 9kg bottles though.

Baz.

[Tombie]

Philip, whilst your method for checking works..

May I add its NOT approved, and can be dangerous - so people considering it do so at own risk of burns (cold) or other dangers - eg flames/sparks.

For those not willing to go this way there are gauges that can be fitted or stuck on that can be used to indicate gas liquid level.

[PhilipA]

Yeah, I know.
maybe I should list all the caveats for those who need them.

NEVER do this while standing in a hollow, or particularly say a well, dam or enclosed room

NEVER do this while having the odd fag, or stripping paint with a blowtorch

NEVER do this if next to the bogan neighbour revving his car. In fact don't do it within 30 metres or so of smoking bogans revving engines,or stripping paint.

NEVER do this while sitting in the drivers seat of your car, while idly pressing the brake pedal in fact do not do it near any running cars.

NEVER let your 8 year old child do this without close supervision. 9 year olds are probably OK.
Regards Philip A

[mark2]

My idea for our next trailer is to use a basic heavy duty box trailer (possibly a No. 5) which will have a roof top tent mounted on a raised frame so the total height is no higher than the tow vehicle. Under the raised frame and accross the back of the trailer will be a fixed bench/kitchen area with storage space under. Forward of the bench there will be enclosed lockable storage for water, extra fuel etc with much more height than a typical camper trailer.

A roll out awning will be mounted to extend over the rear cooking area or the side, depending on which way I decide to orientate the folding part of tent.

I think I can keep the total cost well under $5k.

[Tombie]

Yeah, I know.
maybe I should list all the caveats for those who need them.

NEVER do this while standing in a hollow, or particularly say a well, dam or enclosed room

NEVER do this while having the odd fag, or stripping paint with a blowtorch

NEVER do this if next to the bogan neighbour revving his car. In fact don't do it within 30 metres or so of smoking bogans revving engines,or stripping paint.

NEVER do this while sitting in the drivers seat of your car, while idly pressing the brake pedal in fact do not do it near any running cars.

NEVER let your 8 year old child do this without close supervision. 9 year olds are probably OK.
Regards Philip A


Your right.. But remember the Internet is full of candidates for the Darwin Award!

The recent IOS8 "Wave" hoax being prime proof, that if people read it - without understanding there can be interesting results.

Some may just not realise what can happen.

I'd hate someone to just follow anything I've written without care.

[Redback]

Phillip touched on weight over the ball, this is very important when setting up a camper, something we looked at when we were looking and the camper we have was designed to have the minimum of weight over the ball without being too light, and it's all to do with drawbar length and where the axle is, and weight distribution.

Also a good mattress is paramount, we have an inner spring mattress in our camper, custom made 6" to suit, our camper has the walkway at the front.

BTW I check my gas bottles by picking them up, I also have bathroom scales in the garage, if they don't feel that heavy I'll weigh them, if they weigh around the 5kg mark that should be fine and will usually fill them when one runs out.

I too have the Mc Hitch, great hitch, no cluncks and easy to hitch up to the car.

Baz.

[nat_89]

I saw this camper trailer on Facebook someone shared the other day just blew me away all the cool features and room it has, i know its quite expensive but wow some neat features and tricks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2EOreX6j4w

[Hoges]

Yeah, I know.
maybe I should list all the caveats for those who need them.

NEVER do this while standing in a hollow, or particularly say a well, dam or enclosed room

NEVER do this while having the odd fag, or stripping paint with a blowtorch

NEVER do this if next to the bogan neighbour revving his car. In fact don't do it within 30 metres or so of smoking bogans revving engines,or stripping paint.

NEVER do this while sitting in the drivers seat of your car, while idly pressing the brake pedal in fact do not do it near any running cars.

NEVER let your 8 year old child do this without close supervision. 9 year olds are probably OK.
Regards Philip A

NEVER show women and children half-finished work:eek:;)

[cewilson]

The 'must have' list - only you can answer that. It really comes down to your (and more importantly your families) requirements.

This is what we have found (family of 6):

1. Electrical - most people under-estimate what they will use, and constantly worry about their state of charge. We run 2 x 100 amp batteries on the front of our Trak Shak. These are separated by a marine mechanical switch, with a gauge and a solar controller in a box between them.

We can charge them via the Defender, solar panels or 240V (generator or mains) using a battery charger that has an Anderson plug instead of terminals. The solar panels are mounted on the roof of the Trak Shak, but are removable and can be located quite a fair whack away via use of extension cords that have been made up.

It's all very simple and works well. Only ever use 240V at home or if we spend a night in a caravan park, as the vehicle and solar combination works really well.

2. Lighting - very important, and you can't go past LED.

3. Kitchen - keep it simple but functional. You aren't cooking at home, but what you cook at home is generally easily enough replicated out bush. A 2 burner stove is normally ample for most needs.

4. Water - I've thought about adding a proper water tank and electric pump, but never bothered. It would be nice, however we've survived on jerry cans for years easily enough. Even if I had a water tank, think I'd still have a couple of jerries as an 'emergency supply'.

5. Jerry cans - I hate seeing them on drawbars. Ours are mounted down both sides of the trailer equally either side of the axle. Weight distribution is excellent, and they are protected well there. I don't have to worry about storing fuel in or on the Defender at all, as the trailer automatically provides 4 jerry cans of fuel - gives me at least another full tank worth.

6. Hitch - proper rated off-road coupling with handbrake.

7. Brakes - IMHO nothing short of electric as this will go off-road.

8. Suspension - proper rated off-road - no preference between independent and leaf - much of a much as they both do the job.

9. Wheels/tyres - matching to your tow vehicle is a nice luxury. Works well but it isn't totally necessary.

10. Good awning, good canvas, and bloody good flyscreens with ventilation very important. All very understandable the first time you cop heavy rain, hot weather or any of the other weather conditions that make you wonder why you aren't home.....





But most importantly is the 'ease of use' factor.

If you can't throw some food in it, hook it up and go as a late minute decision then it isn't worth it.

If it is hard work, then it isn't worth it.

If you find reasons not to go away with it, then it isn't worth it.

It NEEDS to be easy, simple, does the job, no fuss - i.e. you don't even think of it.







P.S - Nat - one of those UEV's is what the missus and I want to retire with once the kids grow up. Absolutely love the set-up and already developing the Defender around towing one of them permanently.

[nat_89]

Yeah I've never really looked or seen them before until someone shared the video on facebook!! But I love them such an amazing set up and the great features they have!!

[roverrescue]

Just to throw a cat amongst the pigeons...
I would argue that a sexy multi hundred dollar "off-road" hitch looks good but essentially unnecessary.

Between myself and half a dozen mates we would have towed trailers and boats across every road on the cape and in the gulf - all with a 50mm ball couplings.

None have ever been hampered by articulation - ever. None have ever failed, clunked or importantly been difficult to hitch and un-hitch.

I think the only trailer that would need more articulation than a 50mm ball gives would have to have the trailer axle <2m behind the tow hitch which would make it a fair pig of a trailer to tow/reverse and live with...

Just my observation from combined experience. I guess if it were me Id be spending the dollars on something else over an expensive hitch.

s

[cewilson]

Just to throw a cat amongst the pigeons...
I would argue that a sexy multi hundred dollar "off-road" hitch looks good but essentially unnecessary.

Between myself and half a dozen mates we would have towed trailers and boats across every road on the cape and in the gulf - all with a 50mm ball couplings.

None have ever been hampered by articulation - ever. None have ever failed, clunked or importantly been difficult to hitch and un-hitch.

I think the only trailer that would need more articulation than a 50mm ball gives would have to have the trailer axle <2m behind the tow hitch which would make it a fair pig of a trailer to tow/reverse and live with...

Just my observation from combined experience. I guess if it were me Id be spending the dollars on something else over an expensive hitch.

s


I'll disagree as I take our Trak Shak where most people won't take their 4WD's. I far exceed the limits of a standard ball set-up.

Each to their own requirements.....

[roverrescue]

Cewilson,
how do you know you exceed the ball limits if you are not using one?
have you ever had a ball setup that has bound up or disconnected?

Just a thought...

[PhilipA]

But then its not the time to have structural failure if you are dropping into a steep creek entry.
I am confident I have used greater angles than those offered by ball couplings.
Two that immediately come to mind were being winched south out of Cannibal creek on the Northern OTT, and another when I drove up on top of the embankment at the reservoir at a a Ghan station on the Oodnadatta track.
I don't know of others but then they may have happened often.

IMHO it is better to be safe than sorry, particularly when a McHitch for example costs only a couple of hundred dollars.

The other issue is that on a recent NSW Range Rover Club trip up the Oodnadatta track, 2 camper trailers flipped on the corrugations. In both cases the cars stayed upright, which is IMHO less likely with a ball, as by the time it would reach the limit of its travel the trailer would be well over and be placing a lot of inertia on the car to help it roll. You see lots of vans that drag the car over with them.
Regards Philip A

[Homestar]

Cewilson,
how do you know you exceed the ball limits if you are not using one?
have you ever had a ball setup that has bound up or disconnected?

Just a thought...

I wrecked a mates trailer finding its limits accidentally. We were trying to back a bog standard 7x5 trailer up a steep driveway while helping him move house (steep enough that the driveway had steps running up the side of it as it was almost too steep to walk up) - who would want a place like that? How are you supposed to push your latest project into the garage... :D. Trailer was full of furniture. As I backed it up - on a slight angle as there was a car parked directly across from his driveway, I dropped one wheel of his ute into a drain opening while the wheels of the trailer were up the driveway. I was backing quite fast as I knew I needed to get that wheel up over the gutter. There was a nasty sound as everything went up the driveway. When I got out and had a look the draw bar was bent and the hitch was damaged from hitting the back of the towbar. I wouldn't risk going off road with a hitch like that - just in case. You'd probably get away with it 99 times out of 100, but not worth the risk IMO for a couple of hundred dollars. I run pintle hooks myself, but only because I've got a Military vehicle and trailer - everything matches so I can tow anything with anything else. Even the old caravan I have just got will be converted to a pintle ring. It's also really handy when someone asks to borrow a trailer - 'you have a pintle hitch connection on your car? - no? - sorry, that's all my trailers have...' ;)

[Redback]

I towed a tandum axle trailer up the Oodnadatta track and the Strez many moons ago, popped the trailer off the ball doing a uturn when I drove down into a drain, thankfully the chain helped me drive out to reconnect the trailer as I couldn't re-connect it in the drain(got bogged also, bloody Ford Explorers:mad:

So yeah I'm all for an offroad hitch, last thing you need is to be going up one of the errosion humps(mountains) on a steep track in the high country and the trailer pop off the ball:eek:

Baz

[FeatherWeightDriver]

The other issue is that on a recent NSW Range Rover Club trip up the Oodnadatta track, 2 camper trailers flipped on the corrugations.

How on earth did they manage that?!?!?!?! :o

Was speed a factor?

[Doc130]

Good chance! Regardless of what hitch!!!

[p38arover]

How on earth did they manage that?!?!?!?! :o

Was speed a factor?

About 15 years back I flipped my trailer onto its side on an LROC trip. No I wasn't going fast and I don't know how it happened. The tow ball stayed attached to my RRC.

Re checking gas bottles, I pour hot water down the side and then feel for where the metal has been cooled by the liquified gas.

[Tombie]

I have seen 2 trailer roll overs.

The one using an offroad coupling just let the trailer flip.

The one using a 50mm ball pulled the 4wd onto its side too.

It can happen

[Sitec]

My idea for our next trailer is to use a basic heavy duty box trailer (possibly a No. 5) which will have a roof top tent mounted on a raised frame so the total height is no higher than the tow vehicle. Under the raised frame and accross the back of the trailer will be a fixed bench/kitchen area with storage space under. Forward of the bench there will be enclosed lockable storage for water, extra fuel etc with much more height than a typical camper trailer.

A roll out awning will be mounted to extend over the rear cooking area or the side, depending on which way I decide to orientate the folding part of tent.

I think I can keep the total cost well under $5k.

Yup, I'll second this! My plan to build a single axle box trailer on the same rims as the tow vehicle. The box will be the same height and width as the tow vehicle (in my case its a 101 on 900x16 tyres which is 1800mm wide). It'll b about 3000mm long with a tapered rear for good departure angle. Inside will b a bed and room for a few clothes etc. under the bed accessed from outside, will be storage, pull out prep area (inc Baby Webber). Im using a NATO hitch directly mounted on the rear X member, so the trailer chassis will b high. Ball hitches are not suitable IMO. Stainless 150 LT water tank under the floor. Awning, log rack up high on the front, with gas cyls (2) and extra storage under the rack. Springs will be long two leaf parabolic springs, matching the 101. I plan to carry one main leaf as spare. The longer they are the softer they ride (especially with decent shockers). I believe all these stubby 7 leaf "Off Road" banded Alco springs are too short and therefore very harsh... and this is why people fall for the trap that independent suspension is better! Independent suspension has no gain on a single axled trailer which essentially is a tripod. Carry two spares on the tow vehicle. If you want batteries on the trailer, use a heavy lead with an Anderson plug to connect it to the tow vehicle. Have a heavy duty IGN activated solenoid on the tow vehicle, so when you turn off, the trailer automatically disconnects. With a box trailer, you have a nice flat platform on the roof to do what you like with! :)

[Tombie]

But will it be ready by Easter?

[Sitec]

But will it be ready by Easter?

Not if I want to retain my manhood.. SWMBO's Shorty TDi will hopefully b making an appearance! :D