Axel info urgent

[Defender Mike]

Hi guys,
I think I just broke an axel on Boorumbah my 1958 109 inch. She has full floating axels and when I engaged 4wd I was able to drive home. There was no bang no clunk. Just loss of drive the tail shaft moves but the car doesn't. Now I seem to remember Series 2 Axels fit but not sure if that's with or without a spacer. I haven't pulled the axel out yet as it's up getting new tyres fitted this morning. If I fit series 2 axels do I have to replace both of them ? Is it the long side that breaks or the short side? How do I get the broken piece out ?
Any helpful advice appreciated I was about to head off over East in the old Girl on Friday so I'm glad it happend here not on the Nullabor . Trying to get her mobile again ASAP. :o
Mike

[isuzurover]

Hi guys,
I think I just broke an axel on Boorumbah my 1958 109 inch. She has full floating axels and when I engaged 4wd I was able to drive home. There was no bang no clunk. Just loss of drive the tail shaft moves but the car doesn't. Now I seem to remember Series 2 Axels fit but not sure if that's with or without a spacer. I haven't pulled the axel out yet as it's up getting new tyres fitted this morning. If I fit series 2 axels do I have to replace both of them ? Is it the long side that breaks or the short side? How do I get the broken piece out ?
Any helpful advice appreciated I was about to head off over East in the old Girl on Friday so I'm glad it happend here not on the Nullabor . Trying to get her mobile again ASAP. :o
Mike

If you have a S1 FF housing then I believe you need a spacer. You could easily machine one up from an old drive flange. You wouldn't need to replace both, however it would be a very good idea to carry spares! Often a 2nd one breaks after the first.

I have answered your other questions in your other thread.

Happy to help if I can...

[Defender Mike]

Thanks I'm trying to locate a set here in Perth or get some sent over from East.

[JDNSW]

Series 1 full floating half axles are extremely rare. Assuming it is an original Series 1 axle (this should be clear by the track), As Isuzurover says, the best bet is probably to make a spacer from a drive flange and fit a 2/2a/3 axle shaft.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Barry at Hi-Tough Engineering will make up halfshafts in the series 1 length, but you need to use the 24 spline drive flanges off forward controls or Series 3 109s.

[Defender Mike]

Well I have located several series 2 Axels new old stock 174 long 86 short to be precise on the shelf here in Perth. I have pulled the short drivers side axel out nothing wrong came out easy. Now the long passenger side has moved around 5mm and won't come out . I don't have a puller but gave some persuasion with tyre levers it doesn't want to budge. Am I doing something wrong ? Any ideas ?
Mike

[isuzurover]

Well I have located several series 2 Axels new old stock 174 long 86 short to be precise on the shelf here in Perth. I have pulled the short drivers side axel out nothing wrong came out easy. Now the long passenger side has moved around 5mm and won't come out . I don't have a puller but gave some persuasion with tyre levers it doesn't want to budge. Am I doing something wrong ? Any ideas ?
Mike

It is common for series axles to twist at the splines when they fail. This can lead to them jamming themselves in place.

Not much you can do apart from using a puller.

[Defender Mike]

I got it now to get the broken bit out

[isuzurover]

I got it now to get the broken bit out

You need to pull the diff centre to remove all the broken bits and metal particles properly.

Then to get the broken bit out you just need a long thin punch (or a very long bladed screwdriver) that can fit around the centre pin in the diff.

[Defender Mike]

Yes diff had to come out and it took quite a bit of effort to move the stuck piece. I will replace the pinion oil seal while I'm at it . Looks like the short shaft has been replaced with an after market axel and it has a round drive flange as well . The long axel hast he star shape drive flange. Now should I replace the drive flanges there on very tight and use these ones to make spacers. When you turn the drive flange down to make a spacer do you remove the flange that sits inside the housing as well or just cut out the middle where the splines go through . The diff looks good all the gears look like new.[URL=http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/mikecramb1

[JDNSW]

I have never actually done it (never owned a fully floating S1!) but what I would be inclined to do is to make the spacer from a full circle drive flange, turn out the centre enough for the axle at least, and on the original outside turn out a socket to match the flange on the actual drive flange - this will ensure accurate alignment. I would probably use the spider type you have at the moment as the drive flange, but it does not really matter.

Note that you also need to source longer BSF bolts for the flange plus spacer.

John

[Defender Mike]

I'm hoping united parts that took over all the Britt Parts stock have a Series 1 109 axel amongst the several hundred they tell me they have on the shelf. They have offered me a very good deal on these they want to clear the space. I spoke with Barry about his axels but the freight costs are a bit prohibitive. Considering I'm driving to the Gold Coast I can get a set of his when I arrive. :)

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Mike

I didn't realise you had this thread running and this info was already posted.


Get yourself a pair of new 2A halfshafts and fit both of them.

You will need a pair of spacers made up to fit the longer replacements and they can be made by machining out the centre of a old driving flange.

Find a pair of used / worn driving flanges, maybe it's a good time to replace the ones on yours anyway and fit some new ones.

The bolts need to be replaced also with ones that have a shank that is longer by the same thickness of the spacers.
.

As you have the diff out I would at least visually inspect the carrier for cracks ( using the kero wash down and baby power method is one way ).

A lot of work, but if the differential was being rebuilt with new bearings etc, a easy way the carrier can be tested for cracks, is to hang the bare carrier on a piece of wire and giving it a light tap with a hammer it will ring like a bell, if there are any cracks it won't ring and sound instead like a dull clunk.

Check the thrust washers are in good condition they sit between the inside of the carrier and the sun gears.

Thrust washer . .040" 07902
------ " ----- . .045" 07904
------ " ----- . .050" 50139

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/1501.jpg

[Defender Mike]

Hi Arthur,
I should have taken you up on that offer when I first got Borumbah . I have ended up getting a Hi a Tough axel sent over from Barry. This was not the cheapest but the quickest option. It should arrive by lunch today. I have the diff back in and the short axel. The diff looks great no marks or pitting I would say it's been reconditioned at some stage. I would post a photo but that seems to be playing up at the moment . Every time I try and load a pic the screen locks on that page and won't let me go back to my post.
Mike:)

[isuzurover]

If you are only replacing 1 halfshaft I would make sure you pick up a second hand one for the other side - or even make up a temporary spare by cutting down your broken axle and welding the cut end to a machined drive flange.

You can insert a pin from a roller bearing needle into the joint before welding if you are worried about the weld failing.

[Defender Mike]

I will get one on the way I know of a spare on the way to Kalgoolie.

[russellrovers]

Hi guys,
I think I just broke an axel on Boorumbah my 1958 109 inch. She has full floating axels and when I engaged 4wd I was able to drive home. There was no bang no clunk. Just loss of drive the tail shaft moves but the car doesn't. Now I seem to remember Series 2 Axels fit but not sure if that's with or without a spacer. I haven't pulled the axel out yet as it's up getting new tyres fitted this morning. If I fit series 2 axels do I have to replace both of them ? Is it the long side that breaks or the short side? How do I get the broken piece out ?
Any helpful advice appreciated I was about to head off over East in the old Girl on Friday so I'm glad it happend here not on the Nullabor . Trying to get her mobile again ASAP. :o
Mike long fully floating shaft here jim

[Defender Mike]

Well the axel went in ok all good headed off East yesterday got as far as Norseman about 800 ks . The ignition light started to come on and stay on then go out again. Pulled into Norseman put on the brake nothing pedal to the floor. A bit of down shifting and overshoot the turnoff finally rolled to a stop. Found a cracked brake line right rear where it goes into the salve cylinder. Fitted new line and bleed all good. I pulled of the generator fitted new fan belt light still intermittent but battery is charging 14 volts when motor running. Drove 400 ks in daylight no problem but at night the lights started to dim then fade out altogether. Now in Park area 12ks from Cockelbiddy won't start flat battery. I hope to get a jump in the morning. I'm sure it's the regulator will try and run a new earth wire tomorrow .mif I play around with the regulator the ignition light goes out but as soon as I drive off it comes on again.
Hope I can fix it enough to either get to Port Lincoln where Peter has quite a few spares or to Wilmington and see Dave or even Adelaide Ian has lots of bits as well.
Mike:o

[wrinklearthur]

Hope I can fix it enough to either get to Port Lincoln where Peter has quite a few spares or to Wilmington and see Dave or even Adelaide Ian has lots of bits as well.
Hi Mike


Call ahead and buy another N70Z Battery and get them to top the charge up on the one in the Land Rover over night. Two fully charged batteries should get you to where you can get a auto electrician to test your regulator and sort it.
.

[Aaron IIA]

Did you pull the generator apart when you had it off? Were the brushes stuck or too short? Did you clean the comutator? Was the rear bush worn?
For a generator to work, it needs to be able to motor. First check the field current. It should be around 1.5 - 2.5 amps. Then check the armature current. With field applied, the armature current should be 2 - 6 amps. If it gets much above 8 amps, the insulation in the armature windings is probably getting poor.
If the generator won't motor well, it won't generate well.
Aaron

[russellrovers]

Well the axel went in ok all good headed off East yesterday got as far as Norseman about 800 ks . The ignition light started to come on and stay on then go out again. Pulled into Norseman put on the brake nothing pedal to the floor. A bit of down shifting and overshoot the turnoff finally rolled to a stop. Found a cracked brake line right rear where it goes into the salve cylinder. Fitted new line and bleed all good. I pulled of the generator fitted new fan belt light still intermittent but battery is charging 14 volts when motor running. Drove 400 ks in daylight no problem but at night the lights started to dim then fade out altogether. Now in Park area 12ks from Cockelbiddy won't start flat battery. I hope to get a jump in the morning. I'm sure it's the regulator will try and run a new earth wire tomorrow .mif I play around with the regulator the ignition light goes out but as soon as I drive off it comes on again.
Hope I can fix it enough to either get to Port Lincoln where Peter has quite a few spares or to Wilmington and see Dave or even Adelaide Ian has lots of bits as well.
Mike:o hi thers a guy in brizzy rebuilds to 32 amps old school tradesman regards jim

[Defender Mike]

I'm in Bourke now Brissy tonight . Russell can you give me the name of the guy who does the conversion to alternator.
I'm
Still in the truck much easier than driving myself and cheaper.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

There are a number of people around the place who fit various alternator internals inside the housings of Lucas dynamos.

Some of the small Mitsubishi Electric and Nippon Denso alternators on baby sized rice burner cars are small enough to slide inside some Lucas dynamo housings, including using the alternator front mounting and adjuster legs. You then fix the rear of the Lucas housing with the end plate and its original mounting leg/point. (To fix the end plate, you can open the cover band for the brushes on the Lucas dynamo, cut a length of flat bar to fit exactly between the two square holes, you then drill and tap the flat bar to accept the bolts that will clamp the end plate in place and then re-fit the cover band.)

You will have to adapt the Lucas pulley (or get a replacement) for the B section V belt.

You leave the original Lucas regular box in place but swap leads to merely use the regulator as a fashion item and terminal block.

The "D" terminal is left blank and a heavy Batt wire goes from B+ on the alternator to the "B" terminal on the L regulator with two other wires for the battery and vehicle systems.
D+ on the alternator can be connected to the "WL" terminal with the warning light wire (which goes to Ign.)Remember this will convert the vehicle to negative earth, so you will need to swap the terminals on the battery and the ammeter and you should also include a shunt in the ammeter circuit as it will full scale as soon as the alternator starts charging.

It is likely something you could do in your own workshop.

[Defender Mike]

Thanks

[Defender Mike]

Don't have a workshop at the moment moving onto our yacht so will need to get a shop to do this for me. We have sold up in WA and moving to Qld will be cruising the Rast Coast for a while . Will keep the 109 as a run around while in Port.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I bet there are a few landy enthusiasts around the place in Qld who would gladly assist and loan you their garage for the job. But time would be spent away from sailing.

[russellrovers]

I'm in Bourke now Brissy tonight . Russell can you give me the name of the guy who does the conversion to alternator.
I'm
Still in the truck much easier than driving myself and cheaper.hi mike allan hill 32779377 he lives and works on site off evans rd if you get to redland bay they have long term parking in a locked compound to store your landy safe and if you sail out in morton bay i live 500 metres from royal queensland yaught squadron and i have my own jetty at the bottom of the block regards jim