2009 defender 130 LOCKERS ????

[urumax82]

What do ppl think is the best Lockers to get front and back for a defender 130 with out upgrading anything else (e.g. axels and so on) ??? Or do you need more mods than just to buy and install lockers ?????? thanks

[inside]

Unwise not to upgrade axles and flanges when you put in lockers.

[CraigE]

Depends on your budget and what you are after.
Do you want and activated diff lock or a auto type?
If you are going proper diff locks then there seems a consensus that in order:
Maxi Drive
J Mac
Ashcroft
ARB
Detroit Locker

Then there are the LSD types such as
Ashcroft ATB
Detroit Truetrac
Quaiffe ATB

Full diff locks are much more expensive and take modification to the diff and often backlash adjustment.

The LSD type require very little in the way of modifications and are much cheaper and often should be really called unlockers rather than lockers due to the way they work.
Maybe have a look at the Ashcroft site.

[chook73]

My vote is Ashcroft, he stands by the equipment he sells so if you should have an issue (which I doubt you will) the he will more than likely replace it.

I would advise looking at half shafts, cvs and flanges as a minimum.

[DiscoMick]

We have a Detroit auto locker in the rear diff of our 300Tdi D1 and it has made it up the Cape and recently across the Simpson without breaking an axle or CV. It was a lot cheaper than full lockers but made a significant difference.
There are two Detroit types: the auto locker we have which is locked unless a wheel spins on a sharp turn when it unlocks, and the Tru Trac, which is unlocked unles a wheel spins when it locks. The Tru Trac doesn't affect steering so it can be used in the front but its unwise to use an auto locker in the front. Next time I would probably go the Tru Trac myself.
As well as being more expensive, air lockers also can have compressors fail or air lines leak. Eaton e-lockers only work on an electrical signal so may be more foolproof.
The advantage of auto lockers is we found they often work to prevent you getting stuck in situations where you may not have realised it was necessary to activate an air locker. For example, we have found a significant improvement in towing our camper trailer through sand and mud with the auto locker. Lock the centre diff plus the auto locker and it goes up another step in traction.
I question whether the extra cost of an air locker is really worth it over an auto locker in most situations.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

[POD]

I have installed an Ashcroft air locker in the front of my 2009 130, the original owner had an ARB air locker put in the rear. I elected to install Ashcroft's CVs, axles and flanges as locked diffs can put a lot of strain on these, particularly in a vehicle as heavy as the 130.
I can not recommend the ARB product, mine has been out 4 times since I have owned the vehicle; although their engineers have offered helpful advice, I believe there is a design flaw which renders them unreliable.
If finances ever permit, I'll be installing an Ashcroft locker in the rear.

[MLD]

Depends on your budget and what you are after.
Do you want and activated diff lock or a auto type?
If you are going proper diff locks then there seems a consensus that in order:
Maxi Drive
J Mac
Ashcroft
ARB
Detroit Locker

Then there are the LSD types such as
Ashcroft ATB
Detroit Truetrac
Quaiffe ATB

Full diff locks are much more expensive and take modification to the diff and often backlash adjustment.

The LSD type require very little in the way of modifications and are much cheaper and often should be really called unlockers rather than lockers due to the way they work.
Maybe have a look at the Ashcroft site.

Add the Harrop E-locker to the "proper diff locks" list.

Being a 2009 130 without TC an ATB in the rear may not give you the traction aid you desire. An ATB in the front is a good investment as the middle ground on the continuum from zero traction aid to the full blown expense of a manual locker + CV's + axles at the other end of the continuum. A rear manual locker + rear axles + front ATB is marginally less money than 2 manual lockers F&R (excluding the extra expense of HD axles F&R + cv's).

Asking whether you should get lockers F&R without disclosing the purpose of your truck is asking people to give an opinion in a vacuum. The question as posed will merely elicit peoples opinions on their preferred brand of locker which may not assist you deciding what's best for your needs.

sorry to come across harsh, MLD

[weeds]

I think proper dif locks are suitable for even your everyday touring rigs, having the ability to engage on the odd occasion certainly looks after your drive line and make the ride more comfortable

I can only comment on ARB lockers.....mine have been fitted for approx. 15 years without issue. when I brought the rig it was running standard axle, I upgraded to maxi drive about nine years ago and there is zero sign of wear between the axle and drive flange....approx. 200 000km

just beware of the ARB knockers that have never actually had them fitted to their own car........good feedback from POD as he has one fitted

if I need to fit locker again I would only fit real lockers and would be asking similar questions to what you have......I would be leaning toward Ashcroft but have no idea of cost and their support isn't just around the corner

[Chenz]

I have a 2009 130 and fitted Ashcroft lockers front and rear. Very happy with the performance and the way they performed on the last 6 week trip away.

They got plenty of use and never a problem with engaging or disengaging stopped or moving.

I had ARBs on my old 200 Tdi and was forever having them failing to engage or not wanting to disengage. Usually at a crucial moment when I needed them

Go with the Ashcrofts, you won't be sorry. From order to delivery in Australia was only about a week.