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Chenz
7th October 2014, 01:59 PM
The Edjitmobile, 2009 130 Defender with the Trayon, had real problems with punctures on the last Edjit adventure cross country across the Simpson.

Running Cooper S/T LT235/85 I had a total of 9 punctures which required repair. Of the 9 only 1 was a stick. The others appeared to be just sand rubbing a hole in the tube. I was using good quality tubes too. Not the Korean glad wrap variety and was meticulous when disassembling the tyres on a tarp and checking inside for sand and other matter prior to replacing the patched or new tube.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/540/xkIq6Z.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0xkIq6Zj)

To say I was over pulling tyres apart and repairing these most evenings across the desert would be an understatement.

Other problems were the valve stems twisting in the rim due to spinning at low tyre pressures required to scale and cross the 1,000 plus very soft topped dunes we encountered.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/743/YzSWUc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/knYzSWUcj)

Chipping the Puma seemed to caused the tyres to spin thus causing the twisting issues.

All that aside, I would appreciate some advice on rims to fit to the 130 so I can run these tyres tubeless.

Bearman
7th October 2014, 02:09 PM
There are tubeless wolf rims around if you can find a s/h set. Otherwise you can do like a lot of us have and just remove the tubes and fit a tubeless valve stem. Insurance wise it's not legal but imo they would have to prove this caused an accident. I have been doing this for about 20 years now.As you have found out it's a right pita patching tubes all the time.

2stroke
7th October 2014, 02:47 PM
I've experienced the same problem with tubes, keeping the sand out on a hot windy afternoon changing tubes seemed impossible to me. I bought tubeless King brand rims but at 16 x 8 (the size recommended by Maxxis) they weren't a good fit with the 255/85s and seemed flimsy compared to the 130 rims. So now I'm back to tube type 16/6.5s with tubeless stems, like I always used to have, and no more flat tyres, even on a 10500 km Canning trip.
Some of the wolf type rims were tubeless, I take it yours aren't?

wizzid
7th October 2014, 04:16 PM
I also run Cooper 235s on my 130 and have had a run of punctures and have been thinking it is the tyres that is partly causing the problem.
However the last puncture was repaired by an old time garage and the bloke said when ever you fit a new tube you must remove any stickers from the tubes
as they will rub on the inner tyre cause and cause a leak. Sure enough that was where the hole was. He reckons most young tyre fitters would be unaware of that.
Cheers Pat

PAT303
7th October 2014, 07:30 PM
Just run your tyres tubeless,I've been doing it from way back in my series days,never had an issue. Pat

mattmac
7th October 2014, 09:31 PM
I just fitted 235/85 tubeless tyres (without tubes) onto wolf "tubed" rims without a problem- the guys at the local tyre store just fitted the larger valve stems. Although theoretically "illegal" heaps of people,including the UK military have been doing the same for years without issues.

jddisco200tdi
8th October 2014, 08:16 AM
Are you putting a lot of talcum powder in the tyre with the tube? This stops a lot of the friction.

Have a look at Beadell Tours website for a lot of tyre tips.

Beadell Tours - Tubes for Tyres by Mick Hutton (http://www.beadelltours.com.au/tubes.html)

Regards

John D - Defender 110 2.4

Jeff
8th October 2014, 08:29 AM
Would it be possible to have a 'safety bead' added to the rim? I have also have tube problems, mostly related to the quality of tubes available, and tyres having a rough inner surface, ending up having to replace tubes at around half the tyre life.

I have toyed with the idea of going to a wheel works and having the outer rim removed and replaced with one with a safety bead, if one is available in the right size. Hopefully it would be cheaper than new ones and still look original. I also saw a pic the other day where someone had welded in a safety bead.

You can buy tubeless 110 rims from Paddocks in the UK, but they are way more than Wolf rims.

http://www.paddockspares.com/rrc503600pm-16x5-5-lwb-rim-tubeless-type-o-e-manufacture-black-primer-coated.html

Jeff

:rocket:

clive22
8th October 2014, 08:37 AM
Hi

I have a 130 2012 Defender with stock rims. It's stock throughout.

How do I tell if the wolf rims are tubed or tubeless?


Clive

Jeff
8th October 2014, 08:52 AM
Hi

I have a 130 2012 Defender with stock rims. It's stock throughout.

How do I tell if the wolf rims are tubed or tubeless?


Clive

By the part number. ANR 5593 are tube type, ANR 4583 are tubeless.

Jeff

:rocket:

wrinklearthur
8th October 2014, 11:43 AM
Tubes are fine if there is no need to air down as in the case of a truck or trailer wheels.

I have also installed tubeless valve stems into older rims designed for tubes without any problems.

Most of my tyre problems are not related to any brand in particular, they mostly are that after airing down for soft going, dirt gets between the bead of the tyre and the rim causing the seal to leak.

I must make a copy of that bead breaker that Bundalene showed on one of his threads, as I have a awful time trying to break the bead on the tyres fitted to Alloy rims. Sorry! When I looked, the pictures on that thread have been gobbled up by the Ethernet. :(
.

vnx205
8th October 2014, 12:56 PM
Once when I was having new tyres fitted, the fitter was mumbling something about the tyres being harder to get off Land Rover rims than other brands.

Is that because:

Tubed Land Rover rims have something that acts a bit like the safety feature of a tubeless rim.
He was just one of those people who automatically criticised everything associated with Land Rovers.
He hadn't yet had his morning coffee fix.

Bearman
8th October 2014, 01:25 PM
probably the last 2

PAT303
8th October 2014, 01:43 PM
Can I ask,what does the safety bead do?,I find it impossible that a tyre that has deflated will stay on a rim with a safety bead yet won't stay on one that doesn't,what holds the tyre on a rim that is a tubed rim?,the tube?????. Pat

Chenz
8th October 2014, 04:03 PM
I've experienced the same problem with tubes, keeping the sand out on a hot windy afternoon changing tubes seemed impossible to me. I bought tubeless King brand rims but at 16 x 8 (the size recommended by Maxxis) they weren't a good fit with the 255/85s and seemed flimsy compared to the 130 rims. So now I'm back to tube type 16/6.5s with tubeless stems, like I always used to have, and no more flat tyres, even on a 10500 km Canning trip.
Some of the wolf type rims were tubeless, I take it yours aren't?

I appears that the sand was getting in around the valve stem which was spinning to the side due to the low pressures. I am looking for a set of wolf tubeless rims ARN4583/

Chenz
8th October 2014, 04:05 PM
I also run Cooper 235s on my 130 and have had a run of punctures and have been thinking it is the tyres that is partly causing the problem.
However the last puncture was repaired by an old time garage and the bloke said when ever you fit a new tube you must remove any stickers from the tubes
as they will rub on the inner tyre cause and cause a leak. Sure enough that was where the hole was. He reckons most young tyre fitters would be unaware of that.
Cheers Pat

Thanks. I am aware of the sticker issue and even went to the trouble of making sure all of the clear covering from the tube patch was completely removed prior to putting the tube and tyre back together again.

Chenz
8th October 2014, 04:08 PM
Just run your tyres tubeless,I've been doing it from way back in my series days,never had an issue. Pat

Yeah thought of doing that but with the weight of the Trayon and SWMBO's goods and chattels, I would prefer to run the tubeless rims if for nothing else but the peace of mind

Chenz
8th October 2014, 04:10 PM
Tubes are fine if there is no need to air down as in the case of a truck or trailer wheels.

I have also installed tubeless valve stems into older rims designed for tubes without any problems.

Most of my tyre problems are not related to any brand in particular, they mostly are that after airing down for soft going, dirt gets between the bead of the tyre and the rim causing the seal to leak.

I must make a copy of that bead breaker that Bundalene showed on one of his threads, as I have a awful time trying to break the bead on the tyres fitted to Alloy rims. Sorry! When I looked, the pictures on that thread have been gobbled up by the Ethernet. :(
.

That was another reason for going to tubeless rims. With the low pressures of sand driving the sand could more easily get between the smaller tubed bead and the tyre

2stroke
8th October 2014, 04:42 PM
I got mud in the bead with my tubeless king rims but never with the tube type 130 rims, the bead lip is wider and more square on the original rims. Though being narrower would have helped too.

PAT303
8th October 2014, 05:23 PM
Yeah thought of doing that but with the weight of the Trayon and SWMBO's goods and chattels, I would prefer to run the tubeless rims if for nothing else but the peace of mind

Plenty of RR and Disco rims around,they are tubeless and cheap. Pat

Bushy049
8th October 2014, 08:20 PM
I believe that Cooper ST tires are not recommend by the manufacture to be used with tubes. I wonder if insurance company would question that? Also I wonder if there is a difference on the insides of specifically tubbed tires to make it more tube friendly

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using AULRO mobile app

bent
8th October 2014, 08:37 PM
Hi. I have been having flat tyres in some work land cruisers. We run a variety of mud type tyres. I happpened to be talking with a manager of an after market mine spec vehicle equip company.
He has said that tubeless tyres are quite rough internaly and wear out tubes quickly. He Recommended ROH trak 2 rims. Used by mining outfits due to high load capacity. They can be had for around $100 each depending on the seller.
Cheers.

Sorry should have mentioned that the LC utes I have run standard steel split rims with tubes- bf km2, Goodyear mtr, kuhmo mt's

303gunner
12th October 2014, 11:33 PM
How do I tell if the wolf rims are tubed or tubeless?


By the part number. ANR 5593 are tube type, ANR 4583 are tubeless.

Jeff

:rocket:


It's also stated on the rim as well:

460cixy
13th October 2014, 03:38 PM
Hi. I have been having flat tyres in some work land cruisers. We run a variety of mud type tyres. I happpened to be talking with a manager of an after market mine spec vehicle equip company.
He has said that tubeless tyres are quite rough internaly and wear out tubes quickly. He Recommended ROH trak 2 rims. Used by mining outfits due to high load capacity. They can be had for around $100 each depending on the seller.
Cheers.

Sorry should have mentioned that the LC utes I have run standard steel split rims with tubes- bf km2, Goodyear mtr, kuhmo mt's


This is what I found with my last set of tyres small dags I side the tyres I went around with a buffing tool on an air drill to clean them up no more dramas and I run lowinsh pressures often 17/18 psi

dero
14th October 2014, 08:18 PM
I have several sets of wheels for my 130 . When I had tubes in tubeless tyres I had no end of worn tubes , with no tubes on tubed rims no problems . I also have a set of king tubeless rims , again no problems . The amount of money I spent repairing tubes I could have paid for a set of new rims .