View Full Version : Puma EGR valve
troppojon
7th October 2014, 03:18 PM
2007 2.4 puma. 110 wagon. 90,000 kms
Just recently the EGR has gone from the usual "chucka chucka chucka" to louder "clunk clunk clunk" when turning the engine off. 
I have also noticed there is bit more clatter when accelerating and also more of a flat spot. 
Over the weekend I disconnected the EGR. 
The beast is running 100% better and the scan gauge is showing awesome fuel consumption. Compared to my average 11.5 L/100km it's showing sub 9's (not sure how accurate this is).
The engine light is on ofcourse which I can clear with the scangauge. 
What I need to know is, is there any long term issues with leaving the EGR disconnected????
komaterpillar
7th October 2014, 03:53 PM
i also disconnected my egr recently, although i have only done 12 000km, and the difference is pretty surprising. far more drivable. 
sorry can't answer any of your questions
brendanm
7th October 2014, 09:11 PM
I too am interested in hearing opinions as mine is once again in need of replacement. This will be the fourth one.(2008 with 175k on the clock) I was starting to look into a Bruce Davis remap and blank the EGR, though I am a little shy given the TD5 they remapped bent the exhaust manifold and pulled studs out of the aluminium head more than once and I don't drive the cars that hard.
Patchy
8th October 2014, 12:03 AM
Id remove it and have done on many different types of modern diesels they all respond better .  It doesnt cause any damage long term its only there because emmission laws say it has to be there only down side is the check engine light but can be sorted with a flash. Basically your removing a tail pipe from your intake so thats a good thing since everyone tries to get clean cold air into there engines in the first place..
With the td5 bending manifold I think thats more a design fault not really a tune issue just a tune speeds it up, because everything is working a little harder.
Drover
8th October 2014, 05:46 AM
I have had mine closed for about 60,000k's now and hasn't caused any problems.
It is closed electronically via a BAS remap.
deesse
8th October 2014, 06:29 AM
All right you technophiles you've got me going. I'm an old school mech. I know the front of a carby. from the back but my 08 puma leaves me in the dark. When you say you disconnected the EGR does that mean you disconnected only the wire? I just had a look at mine & I guess the EGR valve is the gadget under the back of the inlet man. it has a wiring plug with what looks like about 8 or10 wires in it. I've gotta get one of the much mentioned Nanocoms & learn a bit more. Hope somebody can enlighten me, Thanks
troppojon
8th October 2014, 07:43 AM
Yes. I just disconnected the wires.
troppojon
8th October 2014, 07:46 AM
I forgot to mention I already have an Autologic remap so am a bit reluctant to go to the expense of another BAS or Alive remap.
wrinklearthur
8th October 2014, 07:59 AM
------    When you say you disconnected the EGR does that mean you disconnected only the wire? I just had a look at mine & I guess the EGR valve is the gadget under the back of the inlet man. it has a wiring plug with what looks like about 8 or 10 wires in it.     -----     Hope somebody can enlighten me, Thanks
I am not that familiar with later Land Rovers and their engines, but it might help if I told you that EGR = exhaust gas recirculation.
It would surprise me if there were that many wires in that loom that are only for the EGR functions, but like I said, my turn to play with those engines is yet to come.
.
Patchy
8th October 2014, 02:22 PM
Removing the wires if electronicly control will work same as blocking the vacuum hose with a bearing if its controlled that way... only prob is if the egr cooler leaks it can still leak into the engine
 I've always found it easiest to put a blanking plate in from where the pipe meets the exhaust manifold what I've done to a few different types of engines is just unbolt the flange remove the gasket and make a copy out of stainless plate leaving the centre closed then use the flange to sandwich the stainless plate you made to the manifold blocking any exhaust gas actually going through the system. This way you know for certain its not leaking coz they can leak or jam open.
Hope that helps
cheers Brian
deesse
9th October 2014, 05:51 AM
Thanks fellas, yep, I knew what EGR meant ! I have an 08 Citroen C5 diesel & am also trying to understand it also. The guru mech. who helps me out with that has advised that when I had low speed surge to restrict the ex. gas with a "washer " at the flange to the EGR, that worked. Does anybody know where I might get a s/h nanocom? Not that it makes any diff. but my puma is '10 not '08. Even forget how old I am.Thanks
ezyrama
9th October 2014, 03:15 PM
Hi All
Would someone mind putting up a photo or 2 of the EGR and where to fit the blanking plate. Mine is regularly 12.5l/100km and would like to get it down a bit with a bit better response, especially when towing.
'Thx Ian
Robmacca
9th October 2014, 06:42 PM
2007 2.4 puma. 110 wagon. 90,000 kms
Just recently the EGR has gone from the usual "chucka chucka chucka" to louder "clunk clunk clunk" when turning the engine off. 
I have also noticed there is bit more clatter when accelerating and also more of a flat spot. 
Over the weekend I disconnected the EGR. 
The beast is running 100% better and the scan gauge is showing awesome fuel consumption. Compared to my average 11.5 L/100km it's showing sub 9's (not sure how accurate this is).
The engine light is on ofcourse which I can clear with the scangauge. 
What I need to know is, is there any long term issues with leaving the EGR disconnected????
Just curious here, but I've heard others installing the blanking plate, but to prevent a code being thrown up, they have drilled a small hole(6-8mm) in the blanking plate that prevents the error code from coming up - anyone heard of this?
I assume the installation of a Catch Can is also recommended as well ??
Gerokent
15th October 2014, 01:57 PM
There are a few threads here abouts on this subject, but one that caught my attention was where somebody mentioned about taking the activating gears out of the egr mechinism, thus the egr motor still opens and closes but not the valve itself and the ecu still recognises that it works acording to how it should, therefore no codes or warning lights show. Then maybe the whole system can be removed :)
fatman
15th October 2014, 03:09 PM
It didn't work for me :mad::mad:
Before getting into this trouble(removing gears etc),unplug the egr connector and observe how soon the engine light will lite on the dashboard,usually after 3 ignition cycles,if not,you're lucky,just leave it unplugged..
Damo89
15th October 2014, 04:46 PM
Where abouts is the plug?
Dungie
15th October 2014, 06:28 PM
Fatman, when you say trouble do you mean the removal of the gear? As I understand it if you remove the idler gear and leave the egr plugged in the system should not detect a fault. if you simple unplug the egr a fault will be detected. I have watched this topic on different theads for a while. Although I would like a remap if I can disable the egr by the removal of the idler I would be happy with that. Coming from a 300TDI defender the I am more that happy with the puma engines performance. And disabling the egr can only improve that and add to engine longevity.
ozy013
15th October 2014, 09:12 PM
Where abouts is the plug?
The Egr valve is number 3, the plug your after is on the flat end.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/859.jpg
Doc130
15th October 2014, 09:35 PM
For the 2.4 egr can be blocked through remap( alive,bas), for the 2.2 nothing really available or proven yet.
BilboBoggles
16th October 2014, 11:28 AM
...
fatman
17th October 2014, 12:05 AM
Fatman, when you say trouble do you mean the removal of the gear? As I understand it if you remove the idler gear and leave the egr plugged in the system should not detect a fault.
Exactly this trouble...as soon as i finished the job,i started the engine 3 times in a row,the 4th time check engine light lite,i didn't even drive it..put everything back again:mad: and re-unplugged it..
PS
In my case...
When egr unplugged,it definatly drives smoother,especially when going from light throttle to heavy(no jerkiness and kangaroing) BUT  it "loses" some grunt somewere between 1500 and 1700 rpm??
PS2
where i gained much doing the air intake mod ==>>  DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Air box mod and decat (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic25864-60.html) - now i am running an 102mm tube.
Damo89
17th October 2014, 03:05 PM
This must be in a different position on the 2.2, some similarities in the diagram but some big differences too.
The Egr valve is number 3, the plug your after is on the flat end.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/859.jpg
PAT303
17th October 2014, 04:34 PM
Exactly this trouble...as soon as i finished the job,i started the engine 3 times in a row,the 4th time check engine light lite,i didn't even drive it..put everything back again:mad: and re-unplugged it..
PS
In my case...
When egr unplugged,it definatly drives smoother,especially when going from light throttle to heavy(no jerkiness and kangaroing) BUT  it "loses" some grunt somewere between 1500 and 1700 rpm??
PS2
where i gained much doing the air intake mod ==>>  DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Air box mod and decat (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic25864-60.html) - now i am running an 102mm tube.
That Defender2 thread is terrible,that bloke has made his Defender look like a back yard bodgy,no way would I do that.   Pat
ozy013
17th October 2014, 06:43 PM
This must be in a different position on the 2.2, some similarities in the diagram but some big differences too.
Ooops, sorry Damo should've asked if it was the 2.2, mine's the 2.4.
davidgate
1st February 2015, 06:45 AM
For the 2.4 egr can be blocked through remap( alive,bas), for the 2.2 nothing really available or proven yet.
I recently had trouble with the EGR valve on my 2011 Puma (2.4 litre). Was quoted $600 to replace it. I disconnected the wiring as discussed in this thread - amazing difference - more responsive at low revs and more power. But of course the warning light remains on.
 
A remap sounds like the best way to permanently disable it. Is this expensive? What does "alive, bas" mean?
 
Dave G :)
Turtle130
1st February 2015, 07:51 AM
Disconnecting the EGR on a modern highly tuned common rail engine can have consequences you may not be aware of. The fine balance of oxygen content in the cylinder is matched by fuel mapping to minimise Nox and at the same time maintain safe cylinder temps. At first, all might seem deceivingly ok, but critical changes in temperature can have long term effects on cylinder components. If you are playing with this you should at least be monitoring EGTs.
Now, if the EGR is disconnected and a matching new fuel map is installed, that is an entirely different story. The engine ECU operates as a normal non EGR diesel engine does (assuming it is done correctly).
One last point to note, a well set up factory EGR engine performs quite well with a huge reduction in Nox out the tailpipe. The main issue is nearly all of them have components that are not up to scratch from a reliability standpoint. This in turn causes incorrect EGR flows into the cylinder and corresponding fuelling issues. This is what translates into power and jerkiness problems.
Loubrey
2nd February 2015, 02:04 PM
I recently had trouble with the EGR valve on my 2011 Puma (2.4 litre). Was quoted $600 to replace it. I disconnected the wiring as discussed in this thread - amazing difference - more responsive at low revs and more power. But of course the warning light remains on.
 
A remap sounds like the best way to permanently disable it. Is this expensive? What does "alive, bas" mean?
 
Dave G :)
Dave,
Alive Tuning and Bell Auto Services (BAS) are the foremost authorities on Defender tuning. 
To remap a 2.4 you basically commit to the transaction and pay on either of their websites and will post you a contraption called an "Atric Device". You plug this into your OBDII port under the steering wheel and it reads your current "map". You connect the Atric via USB to your computer and e-mail the file to the UK where they work their magic and send you a tuned file or two (if you choose). The upload is just the reverse.
You just flash the original map back for services as the tuned map might upset the diagnostics, but timed at 5 minutes 12 seconds to go standard or tuned when ever it suits you.
https://secure.bellautoservices.co.uk/store/remap-defender-puma-2-4-tdci/
Cheers,
Lou
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