Quick steel instead of brazing in provent return line install?

[gusthedog]

Hi tech heads! I'm looking at installing a provent in my td5 disco and was wondering if there was an issue in using quick steel or jb weld instead of brazing when adding a fitting to the oil return line from the turbo? I'm happy to drill and tap the oil return line but I don't have any idea of how to braze. I've used quick steel successfully in the past on my motorcycles in the bush to repair cases and radiators. I wonder if it would be good enough to use on the return line?

Any info appreciated.

[nismine01]

Well, if you take any advice from someone silly enough to stick a screwdriver through his auto trans cooler then successfully repair it with liquid steel go ahead, :angel:it worked for me in an oily (cleaned up to do the job) and pressure system.

People often ask, 'what spares should I take on a big trip', but they so often forget the little things, liquid steel and those tubes of two part steel, gaffer tape, wire etc are the first things I grab. I don't carry hoses, they are bulky, take off the radiator cap = no pressure and tape the leaky hose, leave the cap off till you get a new hose fitted.

There I go, raving again. :wasntme:

Liquid steel all around the return pipes and the liquid steel will hold itself well, it's a bit runny so be careful how you go putting it on.


Mike.

[gusthedog]

Well, if you take any advice from someone silly enough to stick a screwdriver through his auto trans cooler then successfully repair it with liquid steel go ahead, :angel:it worked for me in an oily (cleaned up to do the job) and pressure system.

People often ask, 'what spares should I take on a big trip', but they so often forget the little things, liquid steel and those tubes of two part steel, gaffer tape, wire etc are the first things I grab. I don't carry hoses, they are bulky, take off the radiator cap = no pressure and tape the leaky hose, leave the cap off till you get a new hose fitted.

There I go, raving again. :wasntme:

Liquid steel all around the return pipes and the liquid steel will hold itself well, it's a bit runny so be careful how you go putting it on.


Mike.


Thanks for the reply Mike. I'm thinking along the same lines. I've had good success with the two part epoxy stuff like quick steel. I haven't tried liquid steel but might give it a go.

Cheers,

Pricey.

[Fast Freddie]

Thanks for the reply Mike. I'm thinking along the same lines. I've had good success with the two part epoxy stuff like quick steel. I haven't tried liquid steel but might give it a go.

Cheers,

Pricey.
If you do go down this road, I reckon you should be sure to take Mike's advice and carry some fence wire and plenty more Quick Steel on your longer trips up the bush.
Oh, and some new big-end bearing shells ;)

[gusthedog]

If you do go down this road, I reckon you should be sure to take Mike's advice and carry some fence wire and plenty more Quick Steel on your longer trips up the bush.
Oh, and some new big-end bearing shells ;)

So you think brazing is that much better than quick steel for the joint? I'm still going to tap a thread in the line first. I really don't see the issue but there you go ;)

[Steve UK]

I wouldn't bother returning it, if its a lot then you have a problem. I don't return mine and just catch it in a bit of clear tube which I drain now and then.

Never measured it but at a guess its 100ml/1000 miles ( its on the to do list to actually measure ) Chuck it away and top up with fresh oil.

Steve

[nismine01]

Actually Steve UK I agree, there is likely not to be a lot of oil to return and the potential for more harm exceeds the gain.

My TD5 virtually doesn't use oil, that is, I do not have to top up between services and it's only down about 1.5 litres. That oils is probably all being burnt as there is barely a leak (well it weeps, but not to the point of dripping off), the amount being collected would only be a portion of what is used.

Mike

[Fast Freddie]

So you think brazing is that much better than quick steel for the joint? I'm still going to tap a thread in the line first. I really don't see the issue but there you go ;)

To be honest, looking at the material, the location and my (somewhat limited) brazing skills and the potential for disaster if anything comes adrift, I don't think brazing would make me any more comfortable than epoxy.
I'm using the same method as Steve, ie a long tube with a tap.