EGR blanking plate on a MY13 2.2 Puma?

[AussieAub]

Has anyone done this?
Is it even possible on the 2.2 Puma engine?

Was reading something about that when used/installed on the Puma 2.4's that the engine management light throws a wobbler, unless the ECU is re-flashed, in which case you can just turn the EGR valve off/closed, so no real need for the plate anyway.

If the only real solution or fix is a re-flash, then that's out of my current spending bracket just now.

Any comments/recommendations from other more experienced forumites?

Cheers,

[Loubrey]

Not a great idea while your car is in warranty... :):):)

You can apparently just pull the plug off and it will stop working and stay shut, but it will show a fault code.

If the question is purely academic, you would do a lot better with an intercooler upgrade!

[beefy]

Mine is dpf! No egr

[AndyG]

Is your DPF Defender a non Oz model?

[Beery]

I dare say beefy is looking at the catalytic converter.

If you've ever had a look inside the intake manifold and intake ports of a diesel with EGR and seen the amount of sooty, oily cr@p choking it up...you would disconnect it without a second thought.

Simply put, EGR is an abomination of an idea.

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[Lagerfan]

Read somewhere here about an idea to remove the inner workings of the egr mechanism so it can remain connected to the ECU but doesn't do anything (stays closed) this avoids the fault code as the ECU thinks it is doing its thing.

No idea how to do it though...

[Gerokent]

I dare say beefy is looking at the catalytic converter.

If you've ever had a look inside the intake manifold and intake ports of a diesel with EGR and seen the amount of sooty, oily cr@p choking it up...you would disconnect it without a second thought.

Simply put, EGR is an abomination of an idea.

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X2
Q. How to kill an engine quickly?
A. Recirculate dirty exhaust gas back into the engine wearing it out, therefore producing a greater amount of emissions.

Stupid, stupid idea!

[ozy013]

Read somewhere here about an idea to remove the inner workings of the egr mechanism so it can remain connected to the ECU but doesn't do anything (stays closed) this avoids the fault code as the ECU thinks it is doing its thing.

No idea how to do it though...


Defender Puma EGR blanking - 4x4 Community Forum (http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php't=159476)

Dunelandy is the guy that removed the gears, I think post #35 shows some pics. Reading the most recent threads, he still has no MIL light. This however is for the 2.4, not sure about the 2.2.

I've been following this closely for awhile now, as I don't have the money for a remap yet. At the moment I'm halfway through an experiment, which involves simply unplugging the EGR on shutdown and leaving it that way, once it's done the "chuka, chuka, chuka" clean cycle and is closed. So far in just under 3 weeks and 132 cycles no MIL light. Maybe I just got lucky, but it also seems to work for some of the members on the South African forum. I also have a spare EGR from the previous owner of my Puma, never did ask why he had a spare ! I've removed the gears, made sure it's closed and will try Dunelandy's idea after a month of running around with the current one unplugged. Plus it gives me a chance to pull the current one apart to check it's condition.

Oh yeah mine is also the 2.4, and the EGR was working fine before I unplugged it. Again like others have said, I just don't like the idea of pushing dirty exhaust gases back through the engine.

[Doc130]

I have had a bruce davis/ alive upgrade on my 2.2 and nothing available yet for the egr blocking of a 2.2, bruce is working on it.

[LoveB]

I thought BAS now had a method as well of taking out the gears?

[AlecW]

Defender Puma EGR blanking - 4x4 Community Forum (http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php't=159476)

Dunelandy is the guy that removed the gears, I think post #35 shows some pics. Reading the most recent threads, he still has no MIL light. This however is for the 2.4, not sure about the 2.2.

I've been following this closely for awhile now, as I don't have the money for a remap yet. At the moment I'm halfway through an experiment, which involves simply unplugging the EGR on shutdown and leaving it that way, once it's done the "chuka, chuka, chuka" clean cycle and is closed. So far in just under 3 weeks and 132 cycles no MIL light. Maybe I just got lucky, but it also seems to work for some of the members on the South African forum. I also have a spare EGR from the previous owner of my Puma, never did ask why he had a spare ! I've removed the gears, made sure it's closed and will try Dunelandy's idea after a month of running around with the current one unplugged. Plus it gives me a chance to pull the current one apart to check it's condition.

Oh yeah mine is also the 2.4, and the EGR was working fine before I unplugged it. Again like others have said, I just don't like the idea of pushing dirty exhaust gases back through the engine.

How are you getting on the egr in unplugged? No light still? I'm getting a newy in Feb and want to the same.

[ozy013]

Sorry I never got around to following up on this one, but after 3 weeks or so of running around with no MIL, on the unplugged one, I changed the EGR for the spare, with the gears removed.
I should've just let it be!
After 3 cycles the engine light came on, I then put the original back on and left it plugged in. After 3 cycles the light went out, so i unplugged it. Don't know what I did, but after 3 cycles low and behold the light came on. Bugger!

It was an interesting experiment, with a lot of swearing and skin removed. You really do need baby arms to remove the EGR, without de-barking yourself.

In the end I jumped on the first group buy with Pete at BAS. Initially all I wanted was the EGR closed, but I went for the City tune as well, mine is the 2.4, still can't wipe the smile off my face every time I go for a drive.
After I flashed the ECU with the new map and closed the EGR, I then fitted a blanking plate.

The spare EGR was sold at mates rates to a friend, whose own valve was making the strangled chicken noises.

[David K]

We've just had a massive problem with our EGR cooler - our 2012 defender (110) overheated and we kept loosing coolant. We had it towed to a land rover dealer to be fixed and we got the dreaded phone call 3 days later telling us that they had to strip the engine down to work out what the problem is- they said it was going to be very expensive, to the point that they would have to give me a quote and we would have to accept it before they proceeded. And that wouldn't guarantee that they'd find the problem.
Needless to say I refused and bought a trailer and towed it back 5 hours to get her home.
Our mate who is an awesome diesel mechanic deduced that it was an EGR problem and managed to pressure test the cooling system. He narrowed it down to the EGR then dismantled it from the vehicle. 4 years old and it had a bloody joke in the cooling system of the EGR!!!
Blanked it off completely and ..... no more problem. The engine fault light has come on but hopefully we can find someone to code it off.
And we didn't have to strip the engine down !!!!!! So much for land rover mechanics knowing their vehicles.

[potato]

Its definitely not a bad idea to install an EGR blanking plate.


On vehicles with sensitive ECUs, you want to experiment with a 7mm hole in the blanking plate to allow some gas flow. This is common in other makes and make a massive difference to limiting sludge build-up.


Another route around this sludge build-up is a oil catch-can. It would be very hard for a dealership to void a warranty claim with this setup but no doubt they would try.


Any of this stuff though can be removed before you send the vehicle in for service.

[dazzler]

Pete @ BAS has advised me to remove the banking plate as it helps with temp control etc. That said my egr is electronically turned off and I have a 170AB tune with BAS intercooler. Needless to say I am very with the transition and control I have with BAS.

Note: I originally had a D-CAT(kept) + Blanking (removed) + Alive tune(BD)> BAS

[DiscoMick]

Doesn't having a hole in the blanking plate for gas flow mean the engine light doesn't come on - or is that wrong?

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[1nando]

Pete @ BAS has advised me to remove the banking plate as it helps with temp control etc. That said my egr is electronically turned off and I have a 170AB tune with BAS intercooler. Needless to say I am very with the transition and control I have with BAS.

Note: I originally had a D-CAT(kept) + Blanking (removed) + Alive tune(BD)> BAS

I dont understand how the egr can be switched off yet help cool the intake temps?

Also egr gas have been proven to increase intake temps from what i have researched. The higher intake temps help lean out the a/f ratio hence producing lower emitions. Someone please correct me if this is incorrect.



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[dazzler]

Apparently the logic on the 2.2 is different to the 2.4, it still did the cugga chugga after shutdown with or without plate with either tune. Anyways this is done for better temp regulation and best explained by Peter from BAS. I removed the plate per his guidance.

[1nando]

So i contacted BAS and asked why it is a good idea on the 2.2s to not blank the egr. The answer is becuase if i ever want to revert it back to standard then its a good idea for the egr to continue its cleaning cycle.

Im keeping it blanked.

On a separate note i will be travelling to Adelaide from sydney for Christmas with the family. I will be reporting air temps, pre turbo egts with the Alive tune. Will post my results once back, im really keen to see what sort of egts my 2.2 will be running and it would be great to see how they compare to other people's.

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[dazzler]

Who did you speak with? I was explicitly asked to remove it. Anyways I am happy either way and very happy with the new smooth tune.

How are you monitoring egt?

cheers
pd

[1nando]

Who did you speak with? I was explicitly asked to remove it. Anyways I am happy either way and very happy with the new smooth tune.

How are you monitoring egt?

cheers
pd

My car is booked in at Graeme Cooper to have an EGT probe installed pre turbo (most on here mount it post turbo, not a true reading and according to what i have read has a possible range difference of 100 to 200 degrees less than pre turbo).

Im very interested to see what readings i get at 100km plus; for a few hours on the highway. My mods which will affect my egts are: Alive tune, intercooler, straight through exhaust with only rear muffler, snorkle, oil catch can??, 33s.

When i got it tuned i wasnt necessarily after more hp but rather more torque. The tune in mine is very torquey down low and pulls like a beast. Curious how the tune goes on the motorway in what i expect to be some hot heat and fully loaded with the family and gear.

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[dazzler]

Interesting, like to hear how you go with the probe, I have a heap of mods on mine like ours. and have a lot more planned : ) I wasn't interested in more power but now that i have it, I wont go back.

I had alive tune from BD along with D-Cat and blanking and it was good, but BAS is all that but a lot linear/smoother from a drivability standpoint. I went to BAS as I was ordering the BAS intercooler, Hose hose kit and was curious about the BAS RRC and the ability to monitor the car from my mobile etc

Where did you buy the catch can BTW?

[1nando]

Interesting, like to hear how you go with the probe, I have a heap of mods on mine like ours. and have a lot more planned : ) I wasn't interested in more power but now that i have it, I wont go back.

I had alive tune from BD along with D-Cat and blanking and it was good, but BAS is all that but a lot linear/smoother from a drivability standpoint. I went to BAS as I was ordering the BAS intercooler, Hose hose kit and was curious about the BAS RRC and the ability to monitor the car from my mobile etc

Where did you buy the catch can BTW?

Ive got a provent 200. Bought it of ebay. A lot of great reviews over on d2 about it so i thought it should be the right piece of kit for the job.

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