How to remove auto trans from D3 ??

[vbrab]

My questions are at bottom
Will possibly be looking to replace auto transmission in D3 in near future.
Would usually R&R a trans myself, but repair shop says they have to remove body. Transmission bloke says he can R&R usual way from under car (leave body on).
Biggest part of full replacement quote ($7000 estimate quote) appears to be the labour to R&R the box.
It may be that perhaps I am being quoted a lot because the alternative is to pay somebody to lift the body off.
I have been told that South African trans repair shops can change over a box in under 4 hours, and that fully rebuilt autos there (with heavier internal specs) are under US$3000. From that pricing would expect it not to be as expensive here as quotes indicate. (A$7000)

Q. can anybody confirm that trans can be removed from underneath without body lift on D3, and can anybody direct me to any info on transmission removal.
If you you have any prices for transmission replacement, be keen to know what others are paying.

[87County]

A matter of economics (cost/time) for a workshop?

It'll be interesting to see if anyone has actually done it without removing the body.

[~Rich~]

I'm 99% certain my mechanic does not remove the body to replace the gearbox.
I'll check tomorrow with them and let you know.

[Epic pooh]

The topix extract I have indicates that gearbox removal is not a body off job.

[sniegy]

Body Does NOT need to come off.

But some people see it easier this way.

[Tote]

When my transmission was replaced it was done from underneath the vehicle, no body off. I believe that the cost f a replacement transmission is in the vicinity of $5000.00. $7K sounds about right drive in - drive out.

Regards,
Tote

[QPN]

Just out of interest how many km's on the gearbox and any towing ?

Thinking ahead about when mine might need replacement.

[Tote]

With no service your gearbox will fail at 130 - 160K. Oil changes every 50 - 80K and it will last forever.

Regards,
Tote

[justinc]

Yes trans out from under, not difficult just fiddly. Jc

[vbrab]

Have done 305,000ks. very little towing, mostly high speed top gear long runs (1600k's in a day's drive) some minor brief periods in heavy sand (probably less than an hour of heavy work total)
First trans service at 199,000k's (fluid was BLACK), after I worked out that "sealed for life" was BS, and they do need to be serviced,and next was at 254,000k's.
Another due service due soon.
Gear changes sweetly, hard to pick changes, but can hear the torque convertor starting to drum a bit, and so thinking I need to plan ahead and after getting different accounts of what was involved, thought I'd ask about.
Response from a contact who exports rebuilt trans's to Africa is from USA "Ballpark price under 3000.00 USD -- which would include new Megatronics (A very important point)" as it's cost is over $1000.00",
The boxes are evidently altered to have heavier plates in for towing , so waiting on cost to get one to Australia if I find that what I can get here doesn't match up. If I can R&R it from underneath (like I am used to doing), will just order a torque convertor and wait until it dies.
My plan on changing the whole box was that I was evidently having to pay for body lift, so thought I'd see what others know.

[Nomad9]

Hi vbrab,
This drumming you talk about, could I have a bit more detail, when does it happen, other symptoms.............etc etc. Thanks in anticipation.

[vbrab]

The "drumming" is probably more like a whine (tone doesn't really alter much with gear shifts, just can be heard). In past times when a torque convertor has either died or been going to die, I have noticed that they can be heard as almost a whine/hum noise, and when pretty well deceased the noise gets louder and they howl and changes often do not happen.
In this case I only hear it when I am driving about slowly, as perhaps too much road noise when on open road.
Noise does seem to increase with load on trans.
If you are ever having to work your trans (soft sand or pulling heavy), you may hear the torque convertor then, as an oscillating whining "drumming".
My choice of word in "drumming" might not give best description of noise that I have previously heard with torque convertors showing their age.

[jonesy63]

Just a couple of points about the advice you were given:

It is called a "mechatronics" unit - not megatronic. That is what ZF call the control unit for the box - electronics controlling valve bodies which is connected via a plug - make sure this seal is replaced as well.

The other thing is that if it is replaced, you will need to make sure whomever is doing the work can flash it to suit your car.

[Rich84]

The torque converter in our cars uses a single wet plate lockup-clutch to enable lockup in all forward gears.


It apparently can vary the degree of lockup depending on the pressure feed from the solenoid responsible for this in the mechatronic.

While the TC itself is quite robust, it seems to be this lockup clutch that is the weak point, it wears and starts causing problems like slipping and shuddering.

From what most people seem to be saying, a new TC will solve the problems, whereas a rebuilt one can be a bit hit and miss. .

Vbrab the symptoms you are talking about sound like that might relate to a TC without a lockup clutch?

6HP26 trans makes a definite shudder coupled with a brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr noise and vibration through the control surfaces. It starts off quite light, almost unnoticeable - that is where mine is at now.

[vbrab]

Certainly wouldn't go for a rebuilt TC. Was aware that the US guy miss labelled the Mechatronics unit, was just putting his quotes in.

Important thing is that box can be done from underneath.
(Thank you all for confirming that.)
I live over 1600k's from nearest competent service options so risk having to do it myself if it dies before I get to the city on annual holidays and can then leave it with workshop.
If I lived in city, would just drive it until it died, no big drama to get it sent to workshop.
Will have to check if my Faultmate Extreme can be used to flash a replacement box to my car....otherwise if it dies it will have to go on a truck to city.
Anybody had any prices for new/rebuilt transmission, and R&R costs?

[vbrab]

Re Rich84 comment (below) on vibration through control surfaces.
I have always felt a small (brief) vibration through steering wheel, usually at low speed when starting off (have had it for past 100,000k's), might that be the sort of vibration you refer to?

[Rich84]

vbrab, it is definitely most prominent through the steering wheel. It occurs in unison with the 'judder' noise from the converter. If I am ascending a hill in a highish gear at say 1500-2000rpm, I will generally get that slight vibration. If I ease off the throttle, the noise and vibration does too. Alternatively, if I push harder to kickdown, the trans kicks down, revs pick up and the shudder is no longer felt or heard.


Mine is at the point now where I can hear it and feel it, but others cannot. I tried to show my brother last night, but he couldn't hear anything.

[NavyDiver]

Hi Vbrab
A brand new auto gearbox cost me 6k, installation was 1k in Melbourne "Ritter" a year ago in my 2005 SE. I could have grabbed a reconditioned box at about 4k or had mine reconditioned. The body stayed on for mine but I was told that they were very glad one apprentice had very small hands as most of them could not get hands in to a few required places. Hope that helps a little. Regards James

[Tote]

Another way to tell if the TC is on the way out is to find a gentle hill and accelerate lightly in a high gear, you will see the tacho move as the TC locks and unlocks and may feel the vibration. Usually worse when cold in the beginning as well. I first noticed mine on the Anzac Bridge heading out of the city, as the TC tries to modulate it won.t lock up properly.

Regards,
Tote