Cracka's Traxide upgrades

[Cracka]

Well I thought it was about time I updated my previous and current projects on 'Ivy'

I bought a USI-160 dual battery isolator from Tim (Traxide) a few months ago. I removed the original battery tray and made a new one with alloy chequer plate and packed it up to make one level floor. I used gal threaded rod all the way through for the hold down rods. I fitted the original battery hard over to the nearside of the battery box and then fitted an Optima D34 as the auxillary.

Along with the USI-160 I fitted an ABG-25 low battery isolator to the fridge socket in the rear, also powers my UHF. Also ran 6 B&S cable to the rear with an Anderson plug for the camper charging duties.

Here are some pics, you can see the 4 auto circuit breakers for the P3, Anderson plug, Aux fuse box and the upgraded wiring loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/415.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/416.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/417.jpg

I then built my own incarnation of the ex box, as I thought it was a bit too high and impeded the gear shift throw (my opinion) and I only wanted it to mount power sockets 2 x doubles to the front and fit the aux fuse box to the inside, I didn't want or need to shift the electrics from under the drivers seat. 1 of the sockets I put a switch in so that I can leave my GPS plugged in and just flick the switch to power of instead of using the GPS power button when stopping.

I was lucky and found some vinyl which matched pretty good it actually looks the same in the flesh, the flash makes it look darker in the pics.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/418.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/419.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/420.jpg

And the job that I finished today was the Defender Headlight and driving light wiring combo from Tim (Traxide).

I had read all of the threads here on where guys had put there relays and I spent a few days in between other jobs contemplating where to put them.

Well I found on the nearside under the bonnet, just in front of the fan blower there is a metal bracket, I think it's a strengthener for the plastic wheel liner. I used some 50mm x 3mm steel 'L' brackets I had and made this bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/421.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/422.jpg

I also fitted a pair of FYRLYT driving lights so we upgraded the spotty wiring to 6mm. I ran a length of 6 B&S cable from the main chassis earth point back to the bracket and used the relay bases as my earths for the wiring.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/423.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/424.jpg

And the finished result.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/425.jpg

I was really impressed the voltage increase of the upgraded wiring loom. I took a few measurements

PRE LOOM UPGRADE.
Measured at headlight (turned on) engine OFF..........10.92 v.
" " " " " engine IDLE........13.20 v.

POST LOOM UPGRADE.
Measured at headlight (turned on) engine OFF...........12.38v.
" " " " " engine IDLE..........14.31v.

SPOT LIGHTS.
Measured at spotty (turned on) engine OFF................11.85v.
" " " " " engine IDLE...............13.81v.
I'm pretty sure I'll get nice performance from the spots, as I was speaking with Paul from FYRLYT the other day and he told me you need 13.2v for optimal performance from these lights.

Overall I'm extremely happy with the results gained from the upgrade and thank Tim for his guidance with some of my 'questions' :D. It's not often you get that kind of service these days :BigThumb: thanks mate.

Mick

[Pickles2]

Very neat work cracka.
Well done, Pickles.

[n plus one]

Nice install of the headlight relays - I mounted my relays behind the DS headlight - leaves the engine bay uncluttered but is a nightmare to work on!

I got similar voltage improvements too.

The rest of your install is nicely done - I like the homemade exbox!

[Cracka]

Thanks Pickles..

N plus one, I poured over the number of posts on here about where you guys had put them. I was going to go the drivers side but then this idea came to me, plus it was a bit easier to work on there as well.

Yep I'm happy with the 'Cracka box' :D it does just what I wanted.

I actually just got back in the door from aiming the spots, whoo I reckon I got a suntan adjusting them...............very happy with their performance.

Mick.

[Rurover]

Cracka,

Very professional job!
Re the mini X-Box...
How high did you make it in the end? Looks like about 50mm from the pics. Does it work OK as an arm rest and does it impede gear changes in any way?
Oh and did you have any problems with the wiring of the sub-woofer being too short?

Lots of questions, but I'm thinking I'd like to do something similar!

Alan

[skidrov]

I was really impressed the voltage increase of the upgraded wiring loom. I took a few measurements

PRE LOOM UPGRADE.
Measured at headlight (turned on) engine OFF..........10.92 v.
" " " " " engine IDLE........13.20 v.

POST LOOM UPGRADE.
Measured at headlight (turned on) engine OFF...........12.38v.
" " " " " engine IDLE..........14.31v.

SPOT LIGHTS.
Measured at spotty (turned on) engine OFF................11.85v.
" " " " " engine IDLE...............13.81v.


OK, this is interesting. There's another thread where a long-term Puma owner has reported that his headlight switch burned out. And, if I understand correctly, the Puma does introduce a relay into the wiring for the headlights, which is located in the fuse box under the dash.

So, given there is an obviously good result here, would I be correct in saying that LR have been penny-pinching and put the factory relay too far away, used factory cabling with too low a rating over too long a run, or combo of all of the above? Doesn't change anything, I'm just curious and would welcome the thoughts of the forum.

[Cracka]

Cracka,

Very professional job!
Re the mini X-Box...
How high did you make it in the end? Looks like about 50mm from the pics. Does it work OK as an arm rest and does it impede gear changes in any way?
Oh and did you have any problems with the wiring of the sub-woofer being too short?

Lots of questions, but I'm thinking I'd like to do something similar!

Alan

Thanks Alan. At the front it is 70mm tall and the rear 85mm. This gives me a nice 'slope' on the lid of the cubby to rest my forearm. It doesn't affect the gear throw whatsoever and I still have about 10mm of clearance behind the low range lever knob as well. I mounted my cubby box rear edge overhanging the metal lip on the back edge of the seat box by about 35mm, this is where I get the non interference from.

No problem with sub woofer wiring, I don't have one fitted, although I do have one to fit from when I fitted my Pioneer and Vibe system.

I recall seeing on another thread there is some extra wiring length on the subwoofer somewhere.

Mick

[Cracka]

OK, this is interesting. There's another thread where a long-term Puma owner has reported that his headlight switch burned out. And, if I understand correctly, the Puma does introduce a relay into the wiring for the headlights, which is located in the fuse box under the dash.

So, given there is an obviously good result here, would I be correct in saying that LR have been penny-pinching and put the factory relay too far away, used factory cabling with too low a rating over too long a run, or combo of all of the above? Doesn't change anything, I'm just curious and would welcome the thoughts of the forum.

Mate, have a look at the wiring going to your headlights, it's like cotton. That's probably where the majority of the voltage loss is.

Mick

[n plus one]

OK, this is interesting. There's another thread where a long-term Puma owner has reported that his headlight switch burned out. And, if I understand correctly, the Puma does introduce a relay into the wiring for the headlights, which is located in the fuse box under the dash.

So, given there is an obviously good result here, would I be correct in saying that LR have been penny-pinching and put the factory relay too far away, used factory cabling with too low a rating over too long a run, or combo of all of the above? Doesn't change anything, I'm just curious and would welcome the thoughts of the forum.

I'm pretty sure that there isn't a relay in the Puma for the headlight current - though I think there's some sort of dimmer relay which is mistaken as such?

[drivesafe]

There's another thread where a long-term Puma owner has reported that his headlight switch burned out.

Hi skidrov, this is a common problem and the kit brightens the headlights while at the same time, removes the high current load from the switch.

Once the kit is fitted, you should never need to replace a switch again.

[Loubrey]

Guys,

Is it my computer or is there something very wrong with the Traxide website?

Cheers,

Lou

[Cracka]

Yeah I just had a look Lou, hacked by Kab[u]ss what's that crap,

Tim has somebody done a number on you?

Mick

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and unfortunately, my site, more correctly, the host’s server has been hacked and Optus are on it.

Sorry, I have n idea when it will be back up.

Regards, Tim.

[Cracka]

Hi folks and unfortunately, my site, more correctly, the host’s server has been hacked and Optus are on it.

Sorry, I have n idea when it will be back up.

Regards, Tim.

That sucks mate, hopefully it won't be down too long for you.

Mick

[drivesafe]

This may sound corny but while it is annoying, it is the price we pay to be able to live in a free country and the fact these scum bags are doing what they are doing just shows we must be doing something right, because we are obviously p!ssing them off big time.

[flyinglandrover]

I Googled a couple of the names on the front page and it takes you to a hacking website. It is concerning when you read through the list of alleged hacks! One is a Japanese nuclear plant!

[AndyG]

The new digital graffiti,
This is fairly harmless, wait until someone hijacks your business environment, keep very good backups physically off line.

[Dervish]

OK, this is interesting. There's another thread where a long-term Puma owner has reported that his headlight switch burned out. And, if I understand correctly, the Puma does introduce a relay into the wiring for the headlights, which is located in the fuse box under the dash.

So, given there is an obviously good result here, would I be correct in saying that LR have been penny-pinching and put the factory relay too far away, used factory cabling with too low a rating over too long a run, or combo of all of the above? Doesn't change anything, I'm just curious and would welcome the thoughts of the forum.

I haven't had a look through a Puma, but I would assume that like every Defender since the dawn of Defenders, they do have a relay in the headlight circuit; it just doesn't do what it really should. The relay simply switches on and off with ignition - meaning that you can't accidentally leave the headlights on. The relay doesn't stop current flowing through the mess of wires and switches that constitutes a headlight circuit, so you will still have the same problems that have plagued Defenders since day 1.

[austastar]

Hi,
Current flowing through the mess of wires is not the problem that needs fixing. The problems the mess of wires create is voltage drop and high amperage causing an expensive switch to fail.
These two problems are solved with Tim's kit by using the mess of wires to operate a relay. You literally unplug the headlight and put the plug into the relay.
The relay draws very little current to operate a built in heavy duty switch. The relay's switch is given current from a heavy wire straight from the battery, and sends it directlt to the headlamps via more heavy wire.
Thus the heavy work of switching aprox 10A will no longer be done on the contacts of the stalk switch and the 10A or so is only passing through heavy wires.
Well worth doing for protecting an expensive and vulnerable swtch and the heavier wires will not suffer voltage drop so you lights will be noticeably brighter.
Cheers

[Dervish]

Current flowing through the mess of wires is not the problem that needs fixing. The problems the mess of wires create is voltage drop and high amperage causing an expensive switch to fail.

Perhaps I have been doing this too long, but to me that reads: "Current flowing through the mess of wires [and switches, from my earlier post] is not the problem that needs fixing. The problems the current flowing through the mess of wires and expensive switch[es (the headlight switch is the most at risk, however the indicator switch is a common victim too)]."

I know full well the benefits of fitting a relay to the headlight circuit; I have posted on it a number of times previously. I would've installed a Traxide kit if I didn't have the knowledge to redesign the headlight circuit myself, and I have recommended the kit to Defender drivers I have met. My post was simply a response to the question of whether there is a relay in the headlight circuit from the factory and what it does.

[austastar]

Hi,
Sorry, I guess I over thought your post.
I gather there is not a relay in the headlamp circuit.
I can't find or hear one, and have been told the same by others familiar with the Defender.
Cheers

[Dervish]

Hi,
Sorry, I guess I over thought your post.
I gather there is not a relay in the headlamp circuit.
I can't find or hear one, and have been told the same by others familiar with the Defender.
Cheers

No worries mate.

There is, as I said, a relay in the headlight circuit; however it's function is to remove the electrical load from the ignition switch rather than the headlight switch and indicator switch. Whoever designed the Defender's electrical system could have very easily repurposed this relay to take the load off all three switches, but of course they didn't. In fact, if you understand circuit design I would go so far as to say that it is totally baffling why the circuit exists how it does. Anyway, now that the design is embedded in the loom and the loom embedded in the dashboard, it is much easier to add another relay to take the load off the headlight and indicator switches rather than repurposing the existing one.

So yeah, there's a headlight relay - just not a very good one. You should be able to hear it click when the ignition is switched on. If you have an old dash Defender it is one of the three relays located underneath the fuse box; no idea where it is on a new dash Defender - but it'll be there somewhere.

[drivesafe]

Hi Dervish and I have to be honest and say, after reading your post, I came to the same conclusion austastar came to.

But I can see what you mean now.

Cheers, Tim.

[PAT303]

Tim,is there any chance of you making your HL looms with dust/water proof type relays?,the relays you use have corroded to the point I've pulled the head light and spot light relays apart and made one out of two but it's on it's last legs now,my Tdi only has low beam,have you considered a different relay type for people who use their vehicles other than mum's taxi's?. Pat

[drivesafe]

Hi Pat and either you have the old relays, which I stopped using about 2 years back, or if you have the NEW ERA relays, then they must have had something corrosive get at them because they will take being completely submerged in a river crossing and work fine, and this is why I use them.

The will have stickers on them if they are the NEW ERA relays.

[PAT303]

Tim,mine were fitted about 2006-2007 I think,they are black bakerlight,can I buy new ones and will they wire up to the original loom?. Pat

[drivesafe]

Hi again Pat, and PM sent

[BadCo.]

Hi Pat and either you have the old relays, which I stopped using about 2 years back, or if you have the NEW ERA relays, then they must have had something corrosive get at them because they will take being completely submerged in a river crossing and work fine, and this is why I use them.

The will have stickers on them if they are the NEW ERA relays.

The NEW ERA relays are water proof? Are you suuuure? What about shorts between terminals?

[drivesafe]

Hi BabCo, NEW ERA relays are NOT waterproof, but they are designed to allow the water to run straight through.

As for shorts anywhere in a vehicle, it doesn’t happen with 12v wiring circuits.

You can get corrosion if water can get at some surfaces, particularly if it pools there, but normally water is not a problem.

The only time I have to take special care when setting up systems for customers, is if the vehicle is going to be use in and around coal industries.

Coal and water make for a very corrosive mix.

[VladTepes]

Coal dust doesn't like sparks either....