Solution for TD5 fuel pressure reg and top hose leak issue.

[Jazzman]

I understand this is a pretty big claim, however I think I've come up with a solution to the headaches and cost of replacing a FPR on a TD5.

I must state, this will only work if the top hose connection at the front of the engine that is difficult to undo without special tooling is NOT leaking.

Here goes:

First a kit with a new regulator and o-rings. E.G

Land Rover Discovery 2 Defender TD5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Rebuild KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170865386720'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

or

Land Rover Discovery 2 AND Defender TD5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Rebuild KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281073363370'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

It may also pay to source the brown Viton o-rings.

Now what to do about the top hose?

It is possible to buy slip on fluid fittings from Enzed that will handle up to 5000 PSI. The idea is, remove the hose clamps and rubber hose from the metal pipe by cutting off the pressed fittings straight through the pipe can be removed with small pipe cutter or hacksaw blade, then fit one of the said connectors at each end with new fuel hose. The end result is replacing only the hose section and no need to undo the hard to access fitting from the engine.

Connector Seal-Lok (takes a long time to load catalog): http://www.enzed.com.au/Products/Catalogues/4300Adapters.aspx#/12/

The "hose doctor" at Enzed also mentioned the pressure is not so high that it requires the previously mentioned fittings. He also has a D2 and has simply removed the rubber hose and pressed fittings, carefully not to damage the pipe, and fitted new rubber hose and hose clamps (crimp type not screw type). I'd like to be safe and over engineer it with high pressure fittings.

If you are so inclined, as I will be, it would also be possible to sleeve the hose with a fiberglass sleeve. It looks similar to heatshrink but is does't shrink. I'll get it from my local auto elec, often used on starter motor cables next to exhausts.

I actually have a new hose but don't have the patience to remove half the engine ancillaries to replace a hose. If this works I may sell my brand new OE hose to someone with more patience. My boss tells me I have "the patience of Job", so good luck to the person who buys it.

[steve_a]

I did this job a few weeks ago, it's actually not that bad, I can see the attraction of being able to swap the top hose without removing the manifold, but really, the manifold is only about 10 bolts and a couple of jubilee clips more than doing the FPR.
The pain I had getting to the FPR and the rounded bolts, I wish I had just stripped it down from the beginning, I would have been done about 2 hours sooner.
It's also a great chance to get in and look over everything else (e.g. alternator).

[HPLP]

Do both of those kits work for both the 2 and 3 pipe FPR (Early and late)?

The second link mentions the early ones.

H

[HPLP]

opppsss double post

[Jazzman]

I did this job a few weeks ago, it's actually not that bad, I can see the attraction of being able to swap the top hose without removing the manifold, but really, the manifold is only about 10 bolts and a couple of jubilee clips more than doing the FPR.
The pain I had getting to the FPR and the rounded bolts, I wish I had just stripped it down from the beginning, I would have been done about 2 hours sooner.
It's also a great chance to get in and look over everything else (e.g. alternator).

I see your point. Although I had no trouble removing the FPR. I guess the advantage is having the ability to fit to fiberglass sleeve to protect the hose from heat damaged. I guess it would be possible to get sleeve large enough to fit over the hose fittings too through.