Novel bracket for Light Bar to the new D4

[Hatchy]

I have been looking everywhere for the best way to fit a light bar to the front of the D4. Don't have bull bar or nudge bar(don't want one). But I did find this on the disco 3 site and was wondering if anyone in Aus had done this??

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Finally fitted spots (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic108962.html?view=previous)

My next question is that I am wondering and can not find an answer to my question of whether or not this bracket would be classed as a "sharp protruding object" for the vehicle, even though "all sharp edges have been polished down" as stated for fitting bull/nudge bars and even ariels?? As per the ADR guidelines i have found.

I am looking at a 30inch single row LED bar to look nice and conspicuous.

Look forward to any feedback. Thanks in advance. Note live in Queensland where single LED bars are legal if mounted in the centre.

[Tombie]

Be careful - it will block a significant amount of air through the radiator with a light bar there...

[Graeme]

I made a similar bracket for my D4 before getting a bull-bar however the cross bar was horizontal rather than vertical. The bolt holes for the lights were close to the ends so that the tabs didn't protrude past the light's mount bracket - only about 10mm of metal between the hole and the end.

My metal bar was substantially lighter than that one and the lights wider apart and close to the bracket mounts.

[nat_89]

Interesting I love it looks great!!

[Hatchy]

I made a similar bracket for my D4 before getting a bull-bar however the cross bar was horizontal rather than vertical. The bolt holes for the lights were close to the ends so that the tabs didn't protrude past the light's mount bracket - only about 10mm of metal between the hole and the end.

My metal bar was substantially lighter than that one and the lights wider apart and close to the bracket mounts.

Thanks Graeme, I plan on using 10mm Alloy has worked before and also have the mount points closer to the end. I am also going to put the horizontal piece behind the grill in front of the mounting/bolt holes already there to create a bigger air space. Plan is to have it fitted this weekend so will try to post some pictures (for the first time).

[LandyAndy]

Re single light bar being illegal.
Pretty sure I read somewhere on AULRO if you run a band of insulation tape in the middle of the bar its enough to make it seperate.Worth looking into.
Andrew

[weeds]

Re single light bar being illegal.
Pretty sure I read somewhere on AULRO if you run a band of insulation tape in the middle of the bar its enough to make it seperate.Worth looking into.
Andrew


Pretty sure light bars are now legal in queensland..........no need for tape

Either way I'm yet to see a light bar with tape on it, I reckon at night it would still look like a single bar.

[discotwinturbo]

Re single light bar being illegal. Pretty sure I read somewhere on AULRO if you run a band of insulation tape in the middle of the bar its enough to make it seperate.Worth looking into. Andrew


I got pulled up by a policeman about a year ago.
He told me he was going to sticker my D4, but asked if I had some tape in the car.
Had a role of black cloth tape.
We put it on together and wished me a good day.
Qld and SA are now legal states for light bars.
Will keep my tape on until it becomes legal in WA too.

Brett...

[BMKal]

He must have taken a dislike to you Brett, or was just looking for an excuse to put a sticker on a Disco .............. :p

The number of vehicles I see every day of the week in Perth with a single LED bar on them suggests that this is not normally something that they worry about over here.

I had a 40" LED bar up under the roofrack for over a year (until some lowlife mungrel decided that he wanted it more than I did) - and it never rated even a look by the constabulary, even though I'd been pulled over plenty of times for the usual random breath tests / warnings about the speed I travel at etc. :angel:

I'll get another one soon when I figure out a more secure mounting method - at least the mungrel who got the last one left the wiring and plug intact up on the roofrack.

I remember a few years ago getting pulled up and chatted about the roof mounted spotlights on my work Prado in Kalgoorlie. They were going to put a sticker on it until I pointed out a very well known Falcon ute with a row of roof mounted spotties which just happened to drive past while they had me pulled up ..................... it was owned and driven to work (Kalgoorlie Police Station) daily ............................. by their Sergeant.

[coolum]

Anyone interested in creating a fabricated driving light mounting Bar and offer for sale ... just simply 'bolt on' - no stuffing around


I'm sure there would be plenty of people interested - me for one.


steve

[nat_89]

Anyone interested in creating a fabricated driving light mounting Bar and offer for sale ... just simply 'bolt on' - no stuffing around


I'm sure there would be plenty of people interested - me for one.


steve

Agree there!!

[shanegtr]

He must have taken a dislike to you Brett, or was just looking for an excuse to put a sticker on a Disco .............. :p

The number of vehicles I see every day of the week in Perth with a single LED bar on them suggests that this is not normally something that they worry about over here.

I had a 40" LED bar up under the roofrack for over a year (until some lowlife mungrel decided that he wanted it more than I did) - and it never rated even a look by the constabulary, even though I'd been pulled over plenty of times for the usual random breath tests / warnings about the speed I travel at etc. :angel:

I'll get another one soon when I figure out a more secure mounting method - at least the mungrel who got the last one left the wiring and plug intact up on the roofrack.

I remember a few years ago getting pulled up and chatted about the roof mounted spotlights on my work Prado in Kalgoorlie. They were going to put a sticker on it until I pointed out a very well known Falcon ute with a row of roof mounted spotties which just happened to drive past while they had me pulled up ..................... it was owned and driven to work (Kalgoorlie Police Station) daily ............................. by their Sergeant.
I agree, youd have to be a fairly bored copper to pick on driving lights. Im sure theres better things to waste time worring about rather than if a light bar has a bit of tape to "split" the light into two

[Hatchy]

Bracket installed
https://imageshack.com/i/p92kSGZXj

Close up of bolt system
https://imageshack.com/i/ipEbMFbTj

Grill back on
https://imageshack.com/i/eyNCOJlij

Side view with grill on
https://imageshack.com/i/ex4ffqQIj

Light FITTED!!!
https://imageshack.com/i/kqdD2M6Vj

Side profile of light
https://imageshack.com/i/iqPlzkp0j

[jonesy63]

Be careful - it will block a significant amount of air through the radiator with a light bar there...

Haha - compared to two 200mm spoties? I think not! :p :wasntme:

[Leroy_Riding]

for anyone Interested, attached is the ADR change for light bars in QLD, most states are now the same.
single LED bars are now fine.

the two attachments i believe should help clarify the mounts and use of a single light bar (in QLD at least)

Leroy.

[Hatchy]

for anyone Interested, attached is the ADR change for light bars in QLD, most states are now the same.
single LED bars are now fine.

the two attachments i believe should help clarify the mounts and use of a single light bar (in QLD at least)

Leroy.

I don't have the link to the legislation at the moment but Qld Government recently changed their rules to allow a single LED bar to be fitted to the front of the vehicle as long as it is centrally located. Meaning no black electrical tape or otherwise down the middle!! I also believe but can not confirm that South Australia is about to or have changed to allow a centrally located LED bar.

[Leroy_Riding]

I don't have the link to the legislation at the moment but Qld Government recently changed their rules to allow a single LED bar to be fitted to the front of the vehicle as long as it is centrally located. Meaning no black electrical tape or otherwise down the middle!! I also believe but can not confirm that South Australia is about to or have changed to allow a centrally located LED bar.


im pretty sure that is what I posted, unless I posted the wrong one? the PDF attached should state the change in legislation to allow the single lightbar as fitted to the car without the need to split the lightbar with tape/brackets.

Leroy.

[PeterOZ]

any chance of seeing those photos? they are not showing in the post.

thanks

[Tombie]

Haha - compared to two 200mm spoties? I think not! :p :wasntme:


Actually it's a bit yes and no..

Spot light profile creates a different flow... And in this case the light bar is close to the grill. Reducing flow in the bottom 2 rows.

In the case of (my) 2 x 200mm driving lights - they are substantially further forward and therefore different flow characteristics.

[PeterOZ]

mine has the LR OEM spot which are rubbish lights in terms of output. their mounts go tdown through the bumper and mount robustly to the cross member underneath.

I'd like to for a decent set of LED spots such as ARB have. Not sure on mounting them to the LR bracket though so it does not wobble about and is not easy prey for the thieves.

You can see the setup on the avatar

[LRD414]

any chance of seeing those photos? they are not showing in the post.


Peter, even though the photos doesn't show in post, when I click on the little square it stills takes me across to imageshack

Scott

[Tombie]

mine has the LR OEM spot which are rubbish lights in terms of output. their mounts go tdown through the bumper and mount robustly to the cross member underneath.

I'd like to for a decent set of LED spots such as ARB have. Not sure on mounting them to the LR bracket though so it does not wobble about and is not easy prey for the thieves.

You can see the setup on the avatar


Decent LED spots? No such thing unfortunately..

When you look at CRI they lack the ability to render objects clearly at night (like Grey kangaroo on a road/green landscape).

However, if your heart is set on LED - Google "SA Led Lighting" and their LED spots. Equal performance and around $600.00 a pair.

LED tech and HID tech aren't all the hype is made to be when it comes to useful and beneficial light.

[PeterOZ]

the type of light is at this stage imaterial, the ability to mount them on the existing LR bracket is the crux of my problem.

I'll do some research into actual light technology. HID I will steer clear due to warm up time.

cheap and nasty solution is a HID insert kit into the current lamps but as the optics in the LR spots are poor I doubt I'd get much of an improvement even though the kits are cheap, circa $35 on fleabay.

[ytt105]

I've done eBay HID upgrades into RR P38, Alfa 156, and now the D3.

Been super impressed with all.

Yes they aren't perfect, but soooo much better than original.

Couldn't go back to halogen, in fact had Lightforce 170 100w on the P38 and changed them for eBay HID spotties, about $200 for both.

They are as good as the Lightforce, not better, but the yellow of halogen compared to the white of HID makes them very hard to drive on.

HID for me!!

[Tombie]

Peter can you post a close up of the mounts please..

[cjc_td5]

Here is my solution, made out of Mild Steel instead of Aluminium. The brackets attach to the radiator support panel on each side. I went this way as the full width aluminium support bar as posted previously seemed to block airflow to the lower part of the radiator.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95063&stc=1&d=1434089087

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Lights are Hella Rallye 4000 Compacts. The Fyrlyt lights were too larger diameter and stuck out too far in front of the bumper, risking damage when parking etc.

Cheers,
Chris

[LRD414]

Chris, those brackets look excellent. Any chance you have a template or drawing?

Cheers,
Scott

[nat_89]

Chris, those brackets look excellent. Any chance you have a template or drawing?

Cheers,
Scott

I agree they look great what a top job!!

[cjc_td5]

Thanks all. Due to popular demand I will take a few more pics and take some measurements this weekend and post back here.

Cheers,
Chris

[cjc_td5]

Here are a couple of additional pics of the brackets I made up for mounting my driving lights.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95153&stc=1&d=1434283084

The brackets are nothing more than a 80mm length of 30x5 flat bar and a 25x25 angle, with a 130mm length 50x5 flat bar as the prong out through the grill. The upper bolt shown goes through an existing hole which has a plastic clip in it which must be removed. The lower bolt hole is drilled through the upper part of the bumper and can be accessed to get a nut to the back of it.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95154&stc=1&d=1434283084

The two holes in the light mount bar are just where I changed light type and had to mound the light further forward to clear the grill (when installed).

The brackets are nothing special and to be honest I threw them together as I needed to mount the lights for a country trip that weekend. They do the job though and are solid for the size lights I have mounted, and will stay until I feel the need to "improve" the system......

Cheers,

[Hastykiwi]

Actually it's a bit yes and no..

Spot light profile creates a different flow... And in this case the light bar is close to the grill. Reducing flow in the bottom 2 rows.

In the case of (my) 2 x 200mm driving lights - they are substantially further forward and therefore different flow characteristics.


Burrp.

[Tombie]

Burrp.


And in Australian?

[Tombie]

I'm guessing you disagree with my statement...

Even though testing has been done and shown that the flow behaves as I stated...

[Hastykiwi]

Don't disagree at all. U just havn't stated anything other than that they are different.

[Ooops]

mine has the LR OEM spot which are rubbish lights in terms of output. their mounts go tdown through the bumper and mount robustly to the cross member underneath.

I'd like to for a decent set of LED spots such as ARB have. Not sure on mounting them to the LR bracket though so it does not wobble about and is not easy prey for the thieves.

You can see the setup on the avatar

PeterOz when I bought my D3 it had LR spots mounted like that.
They were very lose and vibrated badly. I believe its quite common for them to go that way over time.

There was some sort of compression fastener used that came lose and couldn't be tightened. In the end I took it all apart drilled out the fasteners and replaced each with a nut and bolt and used a second nut as a locker. I sealed them up with loctite. Since then I've driven a horrible mountain road once or twice a day and they're good and firm so it worked a treat.

It was a right pain having to take the front apart, not difficult but a real pain and wait until you remove the cosmetic covers for the spots and see how they hack out the plastic:eek: absolutely shocking. HTH

Sorry for the diversion. The brackets and light bar look great. I see this mod in my future [biggrin] Might also be a neat way of mounting a front Anderson:BigThumb:

[Muskie]

heres my light bar!

i used a House Stirrup as brackets for the Light Bar above the windscreen

Love the Light it gives, with no rebound on the bonnet!

[tiddy]

heres my light bar!

i used a House Stirrup as brackets for the Light Bar above the windscreen

Love the Light it gives, with no rebound on the bonnet!

That's a sweet looking unit, can i ask what rubber do you have on it?

Cheers

tiddy

[Muskie]

Hi Tiddy,
do you mean what type of rubber i have behind the light bar to stop that dreaded wind noise or Tyre on the rims?

[tiddy]

Hi Tiddy,
do you mean what type of rubber i have behind the light bar to stop that dreaded wind noise or Tyre on the rims?

Sorry Muskie, I meant your tyres...lol

Cheers

[Muskie]

Hey mate, 285/50/20 Nitto Terra Grappler's

[Stuart02]

mine has the LR OEM spot which are rubbish lights in terms of output. their mounts go tdown through the bumper and mount robustly to the cross member underneath.

I'd like to for a decent set of LED spots such as ARB have. Not sure on mounting them to the LR bracket though so it does not wobble about and is not easy prey for the thieves.

You can see the setup on the avatar

Does that allow you to still be able to get the grill off and back on relatively easily?

[PeterOZ]

Does that allow you to still be able to get the grill off and back on relatively easily?



Its a landrover, nothing is easy!! :eek: :twisted: :angel:

[Tombie]

Its a landrover, nothing is easy!! :eek: :twisted: :angel:

Buy more tools :angel:

Land Rover are easy to work on - and a great reason to equip the workshop with more new stuff ;)

[PeterOZ]

Buy more tools :angel:

Land Rover are easy to work on - and a great reason to equip the workshop with more new stuff ;)


if you know what you are doing with which I do not apart from cleaning MAP & MAF sensors etc. Basic stuff.


Tools and I have lots of and don't have to seek permission to buy more as I'm single and even when I wasn't I diddn't seek permission. Maybe why I'm single hehehe :angel: :twisted:

[Melbourne Park]

Decent LED spots? No such thing unfortunately..

When you look at CRI they lack the ability to render objects clearly at night (like Grey kangaroo on a road/green landscape).

However, if your heart is set on LED - Google "SA Led Lighting" and their LED spots. Equal performance and around $600.00 a pair.

LED tech and HID tech aren't all the hype is made to be when it comes to useful and beneficial light.

I'm not sure what you are basing this on.

Evidently shooters prefer 4300K for shooting Grey Kangaroos. But Greys have hair on their faces, so for a shooter, the head might matter a lot. While 6000K is preferred for Reds.

In the Southern states, the Red is more popular; in the North, greys are double the number.

Greys also have white fronts, so ... the white front should be visible with higher Kelvin lights, probably ....

I think that LED might have a power benefit, and a longevity benefit. In theory at least ... firms like ARB claim that customers have said to them that their latest and expensive LEDs lights are like nothing they've had before (being really good in comparison). Maybe that is hype ...

With a light bar, they could mix up the kelvin outputs too, and get both light spectrums ... I guess they could do that with round LEDs too. Perhaps that an LED advantage, in that the possibility of mixing Kelvin temps for catching different animals is easy to build. But they don't do that now ... perhaps because there isn't the demand? But you could not mix output temperatures with conventional spot lamps. So, IMO LED has clear advantages, potentially ...

[LRD414]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95064&stc=1&d=1434089087


The Fyrlyt lights were too larger diameter and stuck out too far in front of the bumper, risking damage when parking etc.

I haven't yet got to making a copy of Chris' bracket but this comment got me wondering ... is there rules/regs related to extra driving lights protruding from the front of the vehicle (no bullbar)? I'm not too worried about damage to lights but rather whether there is any legality issues.

Cheers,
Scott

PS ... I think grill removal would be reasonably straightforward with this type of bracket.

[Strop]

Well I am giving these brackets a go. So far I have got some metal bent rather than welded.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/157.jpg

I have done a temp fix to the vehicle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/158.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/159.jpg

They stick out a bit far so I will trim them back a bit - 5mm.

[Strop]

Thus is what the driving lights look like sitting on the brackets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/160.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/161.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/162.jpg

There is still a bit of movement so I will have to look at some more bracing. At the moment I have only got 2 bolts going into the frame behind the bracket.

[DiscoJeffster]

I'm welding up something this weekend. Going to make up a diagonal for underneath to add extra strength to avoid propensity to flex over undulations. Unfortunately I've got with 9" lights which are a tad big for that position. I'll only run them for trips and remove them for the city

[Strop]

I had a look at a gusset underneath to add some strength but was told not necessary by the bloke who made the bracket for me. I can only put in a small gusset 25mm not sure if it will achieve much. These lights are 9" as well 3kg each.

I am thinking 2 narva light stabiliser bars $16 each. From top of light (cooling fin) to angled frame in front of radiator.

The flat sticking out is wide enough so I can get 2 bolts from light through if I want. It just doesn't look right though. Not symmetrical.

The next problem is that there is nothing to bolt the bottom piece to. Chris went only through the plastic - stiff but not solid. There is metal below it but I have no idea what is under it.

I live in the country so permanent fixture.

[BMKal]

An expensive option, but think about something like this.

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 4 UNIVERSAL SPOT LIGHT BAR STAINLESS STEEL MOUNTING BRACKET | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/222357142306)

I made something very similar to this for a mate a while back, but using mild steel instead of stainless - it was not difficult at all.

Don't bolt anything to plastic - it will only crack and cause you a lot of heartache and repair cost. If there is steel below / behind the plastic - use long bolts, washers and spacers (pipe section) between the plastic and steel so that you are putting the load onto the steel and not the plastic.

Those short brackets you have shown will definitely vibrate in my opinion - especially with 3kg of light hanging off them. Gussets on the brackets themselves are not likely to achieve anything (the brackets themselves look pretty solid) - unless the gussets tie the brackets back to something solid (steel) in the front of the vehicle. Another suggestion - get rid of the 3kg lights. In my opinion, a ridiculous amount of weight to be hanging off a small bracket on the front of any vehicle. A Fyrlyt Nemesis weighs about a third of that (1,100 grams) and is more than likely a much better light than what you are looking at fitting. A less expensive option is the Fyrlyt 5,000 (same body & weight).

[loanrangie]

I had a look at a gusset underneath to add some strength but was told not necessary by the bloke who made the bracket for me. I can only put in a small gusset 25mm not sure if it will achieve much. These lights are 9" as well 3kg each.

I am thinking 2 narva light stabiliser bars $16 each. From top of light (cooling fin) to angled frame in front of radiator.

The flat sticking out is wide enough so I can get 2 bolts from light through if I want. It just doesn't look right though. Not symmetrical.

The next problem is that there is nothing to bolt the bottom piece to. Chris went only through the plastic - stiff but not solid. There is metal below it but I have no idea what is under it.

I live in the country so permanent fixture.


Would it be possible to add an L shaped bracket that uses the light bolts to mount to the bracket then tucks under the bottom of the grill to the bracket inner mounts ?

[DiscoMick]

Maybe a nudge bar?

[timax]

Strop is that a CX 2500 you have there? Not many about i would imagine. Love it!

Regarding your lights i think if you find your getting shake on rough roads you could use a steady bar off the top of the light.
Also you will have to trim the bracket back behind the line of the bumper for sure. Even the lights shouldnt protrude by law.
My Cibies do on my Defender and they have been bumped many times by people parking. Tradie utes i would say as the lights are quite high

[Strop]

Good spotting Tim. 87 CX 25 Series 2 Turbo 2. Boy is that a mouthful. Not many of these around at all - private import. Love driving it but I think historic plates calling. Too many [emoji594] in the garage.

5mm trim will take it behind the bumper - lights in line. A bit of shaping will make it less obvious also.

Stabiliser bar on shopping list I think.

[DiscoJeffster]

I made up mine this weekend with various additional bracing and the 6mm steel bar still has movement that I suspect will be noticeable over corrugations. I too will get some stabilisers. Easier to do that than spend four times on lights that are a third the weight, as good as they may be.

[Tombie]

More than noticeable... and the fatigue it induces will either wreck the lights, break the mounts or damage the alloy casting they are attached to..

[DiscoJeffster]

More than noticeable... and the fatigue it induces will either wreck the lights, break the mounts or damage the alloy casting they are attached to..

Stays arrive Wednesday [emoji6]

[BrianElloy]

An expensive option, but think about something like this.

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 4 UNIVERSAL SPOT LIGHT BAR STAINLESS STEEL MOUNTING BRACKET | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/222357142306)
.

I bought this. awesome bit of kit. black powder coated stainless steel, extremely strong and very well supported to radiator supports and bumper (steel under plastic)

I can recommend..

[Strop]

Stays arrive Wednesday [emoji6]

What kind did you end up ordering?

I just finished the light install yesterday. There is some movement but surely no more that you would get with the commercial stainless version, but still there.

Think the stabilisers will make it better in that it should take any vibration out. Trying to find someone with them in stock. Off to Innaminka on Thursday of next week, if not fixed by then the lights might be staying at home.

[DiscoJeffster]

I ordered them from Sparesbox eBay store for $20 delivered. The Narva universal stabilisers.

[cruiseh]

Heres the bracket i made up, holds a 1.3kg 26" bar without moving.. quite happy with it. my welding skills with an arc arent fantastic :P

129307 129308 129309 129310 129312 129313

[DiscoJeffster]

Yeah. 1.3kg is light compared to our 3.5kg each (7kg total). Not surprisingly ours move more [emoji2]
Stops and I have the same LED spots which have large aluminium heat sinks. If the WA government had changed the lightbar law three months earlier I'd have had a large light bar up too on the front on the platform. Money spent now though. Still, I'm seriously considering ebaying them and going to a lightbar up top.

[DiscoJeffster]

Heres the bracket i made up, holds a 1.3kg 26" bar without moving.. quite happy with it. my welding skills with an arc arent fantastic :P

129307 129308 129309 129310 129312 129313

On reflection I see how I could reduce further flex in mine by copying your box section. I've used a 6mm flat bar for the crossbar but there is flex there. I might remake it using a rectangular box section at the rear.
Or I could just get a bull bar and be done with it lol

[cjc_td5]

To stop a vibration issue with my lights I ended up making some plastic legs to push down onto the bumper. They use the threaded stud on the bottom of the light and have a rubber foot to avoid damaging the bumper paint. They don't have to push very hard, only enough to take out any vibration movement.

They are still rough 3D printed and I haven't tidied them up yet. Just seeing how they work first....


Cheers,
Chris

[cjc_td5]

... If the WA government had changed the lightbar law three months earlier I'd have had a large light bar up too on the front on the platform. Money spent now though. Still, I'm seriously considering ebaying them and going to a lightbar up top.

Yes I have noted the change in Light Bar rules too. Am considering a fully sik light bar up top mounted between the long roof rails. [bigrolf][bigrolf]

[Tombie]

Come drive the Transcontinental line or the Anne Beadell with me some time [emoji48]

That will highlight the designs [emoji56]

[cjc_td5]

Come drive the Transcontinental line or the Anne Beadell with me some time [emoji48]

That will highlight the designs [emoji56]

I understand that fully Tombie. Mine did just come back from the Gunbarrell et al though with no issues (apart from a cracked glass from a rock). When doing rough stuff like the Kalumburu Road I have previously advocated removing driving lights entirely as I have seen all designs damaged on those rough roads. I was with a group that crossed the Anne Beadell this year and I think just about all vehicles had light damage of some description...

[Tombie]

Resonance is a nasty creature!

[kevo78]

Heres the bracket i made up, holds a 1.3kg 26" bar without moving.. quite happy with it. my welding skills with an arc arent fantastic :P

129307 129308 129309 129310 129312 129313

Unfortunately for me i will not be fitting a bullbar due to being close to GVM (draws and van) so this is an excellent solution for putting my lights on. halfway fabrication now :) Thanks

[cruiseh]

Did i meet you at windscreens obrien today ?

Sent from my HTC 10 using AULRO mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=78345)

[ramblingboy42]

Come drive the Transcontinental line or the Anne Beadell with me some time [emoji48]

That will highlight the designs [emoji56]

Have you been there recently Tombie, was at Mabel Ck a few weeks ago and they have completely refurbished the homestead. My friends owned Mabel Ck previously and we saw the devastation a few years ago....this was also from 4wder's as much as anyone else.

Sorry about the hijack.