110 Wagon factory options

[stewie110]

Hi All,

I am interested to know if on the 110 wagon with 7 seats that the rear load space rubber mat's fit properly?

Also does anyone know how long it takes to remove the rear seats from the 110 for when we go touring?

I have also been searching around for an easy to add/remove rear load space cage for when we go touring. Most of the ones that I have found so far seem to require about an hour to get it in and out (vendor's have told me that). Can anyone advise?

[BilboBoggles]

The factory rear load mat is just a heavy rubber mat that sits on the floor. It's very expensive though I think it was something ridiculous like $500 or more - I managed to score it free as I ordered under the corporate plan and the sales guy was being nice. In my opinion it does not fit very well, it seems to be about 1 inch too small and leave gaps down the sides.

In my other Defender I bought a rear load mat for a ute from Bunnings for $56, and cut it to the exact size, it fits perfectly and is a lot easier to clean out as it's completely flat.

The only difference the rear seats makes to the mat are some small cutouts for the seat lower arms to fit in, these are just slots. The factory mat has these cut outs pre punched.

By a Cargo cage - do you mean a cargo barrier. These don't work with rear seats though - you can't have the barrier and the rear seats occupied at the same time. I have the Autosafe in all of my Defenders. It fits very well, and there are just 4 bolts to undo to remove. I have not tried to remove it but would guess it should take less than 10 mins to do. (Fitting the mounting brackets though took a good few hours.)

[Loubrey]

Stewie110,

Following on what Bilboboggles wrote, very few of the genuine "factory" accessories are worth the asking price.

Example: Mantec manufactures Land Rover's OEM RAI (snorkel) and steering guard (all three models). They also manufacture and sell their Mantec branded products which has some small design changes and Mantec labeling.

You can buy these in the UK (online) and airfreight them to your front door for about 35% of the Land Rover catalog price for the equivalent item.

This goes for 95% of accessories and the vendors here on AULRO sells very high quality products that would individualize your vehicle beyond anything in the catalogs.

Answer to your question about the seats - 20 minutes to take them out and put the bolts back to cover the holes, a LOT longer to put them back! :eek:

Cheers,

Lou

[rgty_kmj]

I had a 1992 110 9 seater station wagon before got the 2012 7 seater.
The 1992 seats were really easy to get in and out and only took about 5 minutes per seat. With the 2012 seats - well the 2 seats right at the back have come out and they are not going back in until I sell it in 20+ years. The middle set of 3 seats are really heavy. I can lift the single seat by my self but the double seats is a 2 person job to lift it and carry it. It takes me about 45 minutes to get the middle seats back in so it doesn't happen as often as it used to.

Kerry

[AndyG]

The leather seats are very comfy, and I thought the sun roof was fairvalue

Does the LR price, for accessories, like the RAI , include fitting?

[Loubrey]

Mostly talking about bolt on accessories and not the aesthetic factory options like leather or heated seats, sun roofs etc ...

The most common items being RAI's, roofracks, steering guards, spotlights, checker plate, spare carriers, bumperettes etc etc

The catalog price only "includes" labor if the option was executed prior to delivery which really means they do it for free as a delivery "gift".

After delivery you would pay fitment charges at standard dealer labor rates. So comparing the Land Rover catalog price for a RAI is a direct comparison with the aftermarket over the counter or delivered price.

Really worth talking to guys like Juddy, Daniel or Nugget (apologies to those not named) here on the forum prior to even considering "genuine" or "factory" options. Daniel even sells "genuine" dash switches for powered accessories and auxiliaries.

Cheers,

Lou

[Dorian]

Lou
Taking the seats in/out. In mine (5 seater) the back bolts are studs with flange nuts. Pita, I have replaced these with bolts which makes the job a bit quicker. Before they come out, I use a cable tie to keep the springs in the "seat folded forward position", this makes it a lot quicker to put back in. Because my kids come and go ( early 20s), I end up doing this about once every two months or so.
I budget about 25 mins each way for just the two

Cheers Glen

[kogvos]

If the factory cargo mat is anything like the one in the 90 (and various people suggest it is), it's a poor fit and I'd recommend sourcing a better alternative. The "cut-outs" for the drop-down seats don't justify it, and particularly not when you've removed the seats (I've removed one seat only which makes it even sillier). You do need something in the back as the factory flooring in the new Pumas is rather slippery.

The seat removal is easy enough and takes maybe 15 minutes if you're slow (or like me don't realise there's another nut in the wheel arch whilst you're tugging away in the back). I've never put the seat back in but I can't imagine it would be too difficult, just a little awkward.

I can't help with load space barriers. I like to live on the edge.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-58t7Mxm4fe4/VDN4B_EUm3I/AAAAAAAAC9Q/D06cTpTfu5Y/s1022-d/IMG_20141007_160145.jpg

[AndyG]

I would check out Clark Rubber for a starting point.

It terms of Dealer fitted accessories, probably not a outrageous deal if you can't don't do it yourself. I say this in recent hind site, still getting stuff fitted.

[FeatherWeightDriver]

I would check out Clark Rubber for a starting point.


Clark Rubber has rolls of the ribbed factory rubber flooring, and it's neither expensive to buy nor hard to put in (it's a Defender!), so might be worth not bothering and then just swap out the factory mat for new stuff.

Then again if I was redoing the matting I would put in a flat mat, as the ribs just collect EVERYTHING. :mad:

[Loubrey]

I use the rubber mat with rows of about 20mm holes in it exactly for that reason. I've got a hard wearing shock proof mat and all the dirt and sand just falls through the holes. Added bonus is that the holes "lock" onto the collection of bolt heads in the floor and doesn't move at all.

After a day out I just lift the rubber mat out and sweep the back clean, rubber mat back in.

Cheers,

Lou

[noyakfat]

In my old GQ patrol (sold a few years ago) I built a heavy duty plywood false floor in the back and I also used that rubber matting of the type described by Lou.

I also found it very easy to remove and sweep out, as all the Sunshine Coast sand fell straight through to the floor-top. It is also a very dense and strong rubber, which carried lots of heavy gear with no problem at all. It's very durable stuff.

Once I finally finish my rear floor install in the 110, I'll more than likely be using this same matting to top it off.

Cheers,
Nige

[tieds]

About 15 min for each seat. Each one has 12 of those torx(??) head bolts accessible from inside car and two larger bolts with access to nylex lock nuts from inside wheel arches.
The seats are awkward to move around when they're removed, maybe tie them up in the folded down position to help.
Does anyone know where to get those little plastic two part fasteners that hold the cover over the rear seat spring mechanisms, or for that matter what they are called?