Land Rover 2.6 6 cyl help

[109]

Hi guys,

I have a 1980 109 with a 202, this was a rover 6 and is a daily driver.
I also have a 1976 109 with a rover 2.6 I picked up for parts.

The rover 6 had the carby rebuilt prior to me and starts and runs well. I would like to put it in my daily to return it to standard.

The problem I have is I haven't driven the rover 6 and it's been sitting for at least 4 years that I know of.

It runs well, idles nice and doesn't appear to overheat. Oil pressure seems ok

It does however blow a bit of smoke. I haven't ran the engine for long and need some advice on how to proceed with a diagnosis.

What are the causes of oil smoke on these engines, I don't know much about them.

I know rings can be a problem and on holdens valve seals can be on startup.

Are there some simple service things I can do to try to reduce or fix it? Do they have a crank case return that can cause a problem?

I was also wondering about the exhaust valves. I was told 3 were replaced and there was a receipt in it for 3 valves as a parts purchase. But no idea if they are actually in it. Can oil run in on the valves while it's running on this type of engine design if they or not adjusted correctly?

Any input appreciated.

[JDNSW]

A bit of diagnosis help. If the oil smoke is blown when accelerating after the engine has been idling, but then clears, it is likely to be from inlet valve stem seals. Relatively easy fix.

If it is more prominent when running under load, it is likely to be rings or worn (or glazed) bore. Bigger job, but a compression test may rule this in or out.

Depending on age (and whether it has been removed) it may have a positive crankcase ventilation, which can feed oil into the inlet in some circumstances, but if the engine runs OK this is unlikely to be the problem.

Valve (mis)adjustment cannot cause oil burning.

Also check that the oil level in the air cleaner is correct - overfill this and it will suck oil in (check for traces of oil at the carburettor).

[109]

thanks JD.

valve adjustment ruled out then.

carb is clean as a whistle inside after rebuild so that's not it.

I ran it 6 months ago when I got it, I let it warm up and revved it a bit etc. I couldn't do much in the way of a road test as the clutch was poor but the parts value way exceeded the price so a deal was struck.

I will have to do a compression test I guess. I need to buy a compression gauge tool any suggestions. once off test so cheap and cheerful ok?

Here's a few picks of the unit. Is the crank case vent system the bit I circled in yellow?

Maybe a clean of these parts and a full oil change, clean oil filter and run it for a good while before buying a compression tool?

Also could the oil cooler ( I think that's what it is) in the last photo be a be a problem?

Lastly I was reading last night on a rover car forum about some method of sticking BON AMI though the carb to deglaze the bores on its car cousin 2.6 and 3.0 engines? sounds like witch craft but I guess as the very very last resort if a rebuild is next, I might think about it...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1130.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1131.jpg



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1132.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1133.jpg

[JDNSW]

Nothing magic about compression gauges, so I don't see a problem with a cheap one.

You have accurately picked the crankcase vent system. As I said, this is unlikely to be the problem.

Oil cooler cannot cause oil burning - about the only bad thing they do is leak.

Changing oil, perhaps using a somewhat heavier oil, and give it a bit of work may help.

I have heard of the bon ami idea, but I have neither used it nor talked to anyone who has, but I do see where it comes from.

Before deciding the engine needs overhauling, I would be inclined to pull the head off and have a look at the bores. If these are good, at most you are probably looking at pistons and rings, or even just rings. While apart, you would replace the big end bearings as a matter of course. But may well be a lot less than a full overhaul.

These engine's main weakness (apart from fuel consumption) is, at least anecdotally, a tendency to burn exhaust valves. I have seen two explanations for this. The first is that being hard to get at, the tappet clearance is neglected, the second is that a water distribution tube inside the block is often either removed for no good reason or rusts away due to unsuitable coolant, resulting in the back couple of exhaust valves overheating.

Hope this helps,

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

One of the most common reasons for smoky Rover 2.6 engines is inlet valve-stem oil seals, it is particularly a problem for engines that have not been run for some years as the seals dry our and crack.

To repair properly its a head off issue as you have to put the seals in when inserting the valves.

I have heard of people modifying the stem to accept the late 2 1/4 seals which are fitted without removing the head.

[109]

ok, sounds like a compression test for an info gathering exercise then head removal for valves seals and further inspection.

What size attachment is it for the sparkplug holes?

Do we have good suppliers for seals and head gasket sets is oz?

Is there anyone who works on these heads here ie reco them? How much should it cost to reco?

If it not too hard to do the seals, I can lap the valves. Its new ground for me but its going to be translated at some point so best to get it right prior to that.

[JDNSW]

ok, sounds like a compression test for an info gathering exercise then head removal for valves seals and further inspection.

What size attachment is it for the sparkplug holes?

Do we have good suppliers for seals and head gasket sets is oz?

Is there anyone who works on these heads here ie reco them? How much should it cost to reco?

If it not too hard to do the seals, I can lap the valves. Its new ground for me but its going to be translated at some point so best to get it right prior to that.

Any compression gauge will work - spark plug holes are standard 14mm.

Seals and head gasket should be available from any of the specialist Landrover suppliers in Australia. A good place to start would be 'Recommended Suppliers' in this forum.

Diana's suggestion that it is likely to be the valve stem seals confirms one of my suggestions. A possible test for this would be to have the engine idling with the inlet rocker cover off, and using an oil can squirt some very light engine oil on each valve stem - a leaking seal will suck the oil in and be immediately obvious from the smoke. It may also change the engine sound as the slight air leak is blocked.

John

John

[109]

Thankyou, I just need to get a gauge and get into it now.
these ideas are very helpful

[Lotz-A-Landies]

There FWD in Melbourne, probably All Four x 4 in Kotara or Land Vehicle Spares in Silverdale. The seals are "O" rings so may be available from engineers suppliers

[gromit]

If you get a top end gasket set (VRS) the seals are usually included.

Parts are getting scarce (read expensive) for the 2.6 so hopefully it's only the valve guide seals causing a problem.

My 2.6 had been run with no oil in the air filter and the rings were badly worn, I then found that +.020" rings are as common rocking horse droppings. Details here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/118730-ffr-refurb.html

Best of luck.


Colin

[harry]

don't do the bon ami old wives tale,
would you put sand in an engine....

[JDNSW]

don't do the bon ami old wives tale,
would you put sand in an engine....

While I would not use it, bon ami is not as bad as sand - the abrasive ingredient in it, calcite, is softer than either the bore or rings, although it is about the same hardness as the pistons, and probably the bearings.

Sand (silica), on the other hand, is harder than virtually any metal used in the engine (some case hardened surfaces may be as hard, but I can't think of any that would be).

The whole idea of the bon ami bit is that it will remove a glaze of burnt oil from the bores. I have no idea how effective it is, and would not do it to my engine except as a desperate attempt to delay an immediate overhaul.

John

[gromit]

Lots of tales on the internet of the bon ami solution (for & against).

Would switching to a running in oil (no friction modifiers) and using that for a while have a similar effect ?

Also, could the problem just be piston rings that are stuck in the grooves ?

Colin

[wrinklearthur]

Using Bon-Ami has been used effectively on old cast iron bores of diesel engines that had gone smokey due to glazing, but I have only heard of this being done successfully with large old truck engines in which it would have been a major effort to remove them out of their chassis for their rebuild.

Glazed bores with high oil usage, in diesel farm tractor engine's is caused by long periods of idling while cold and one cause of this is, the tractor has been used for light work such as feeding out during the winter months. The engine would come right after a couple of weeks heavy work ploughing.

I don't know if petrol engine could have the same issue of a glazed bore and like the others have said, I would be starting with fitting some new valve stem seals before committing to a engine rebuild.
.

[109]

Went down to Supercheap to look at compression gauges and the cheapest on offer was $60.


A VRS gasket set is about $90 delivered. I might just as well whip the head off, do the seals and have a look about while I'm in there.


Its a kind of back burner project as the wife wants the house jobs done first. What a strange woman she is ;)