Blend motors

[TheTree]

Hi

I thought I would pass on the not so good news about blend motors.

The Peugeot motors which have been used in the past are now NLA from third parties. Valeo have stopped making them apparently, not sure about Peugeot genuine but wreckers are asking $200.00 for a second hand one :o

So I thought OK I will get the Valeo version from Allmakes but it turns out that Allmakes are out of stock and have no idea when they will get new stock, perhaps never now Valeo have stopped manufacture of them.

So it's Britpart for £150.00 or genuine LR for about £350.00 :eek: Needless to say I went for the BritPart ones.

So although some BritPart stuff may be of questionably quality, we are bloody lucky they are around and making parts for our beasts !

Steve

[Hoges]

I guess I am not surprised:( Coupled with the "what the market will pay" attitude by the 'recyclers', I suspect the 'collector's item' tag will become reality for P38s in the next few years....

I have been looking at "step" motors advertised by Jaycar and others as used in robotics but no luck so far... their price is excellent (<$50), they seem to have excellent torque (to overcome the resistance of the flaps in slightly distorted heater housings), and very solid drive mechanisms including metal gears, but their speed(rpm) is probably too high... as with most issues on P38s, I am ever optimistic some bright spark will lead us out of the wilderness on this one!;)

[poleonpom]

I did once read of someone looking to adapt cheap and robust electric motors used in model airplanes.
Electronics is a bit beyond my capabilities so I was hoping there was someone on the forum that understands this stuff and can guide the rest of us.surely it can't be that hard?

[TheTree]

Hi

Well there are documented procedures for using brass gears from tamiya model cars and replacing the potentiometer so that's a good start

The brushes in the motor itself could probably be addressed as well.

When I swap mine out I will dissect the old one and see which part has failed to give the dreaded "blend motor short circuit" message

Steve

[TheTree]

Well it was about 3.5 hours to swap the right hand blend motor and upon disassembling the faulty one it all all looked fine

My fault was a short circuit so it looks as if it is internal to the motor so pretty hard to repair :(

Steve

[TheTree]

So here I am 5 months later and the :censored: cheque book symbols comes up again!

Plug in the nanocom and it says "right hand blend motor short circuit" the one I replaced :angrylock:

So I think a warranty claim is in order.

Steve

[Pete38]

Damn Steve. At least you're more familiar with the removal, so the time to remove and replace should only reduce

[p38arover]

When I had the dash out, i replaced all three. Less than a year later, the worst one to replace, i.e., the RH one failed.

I haven't got around to fixing it. I want to do another dash-out job to also fix the distribution flap servos.

[DT-P38]

Just curious...

Has anyone out there ever done (or looked into) a downgrade to the manual HEVAC controller from a low spec Brit/Euro car?

Are the behind the dash parts any simpler?

I have it in my head (God knows why) that the simplest set-up may be easier to live with/work around given the reduced complexity. I know I wouldnt miss the Auto stuff 99.99% of the time.

Just like I don't miss the auto dim rear view mirrors that I replaced with D2 manual versions... and soon SCA reversing camera clip on versions.

Also like the manual gearbox conversion kits available on ebay UK from low spec SE, DT and DSE's I am finding interesting all of a sudden... Is dumbing down a P38 a bad thing???