eas hose identification

[blindin]

Hello again.
Ok, so after giving the p38 a test last night with a few modifications, I realised that I may have a bit of an air leak, or dodgy eas sensor. Not really to worried, I haven't looked at it yet, and will have a read to see what exactly will shut off when I turn the power off to the delay relay.
Anyway, at the end of the run, I opened the back, went to grab my compressor, and then realised that unless I take off the battery cover, I cant use the compressor. No big problem, but it was cold, dark, late at night, and I simply couldn't be bothered. So I drove to the servo to do it, much quicker, and easier.
So, I want to add a pressure gauge to see what pressure I'm keeping in the tank, and also add an air fitting so I can pump up the tyres from the eas.
I will eventually plumb it into the tank, and run an airline front and rear, but for now, I'll do it a quick and untidy way.
Long build up to a very quick question. I've now spent an hour trying to find which hose it is on the valve block for the pressure in. I can not find a thread pointing it out, nor on rave, some one please help me!!!!
I want the hose from the tank - into the eas valve block.
Unless someone will point me in a better direction.
Also - further down the line. If I was to put an additional compressor in, how would I be able to run a drier. From my understanding, the drier is on the input into the compressor, so the air in the tank is already dry???? or have I got it round the wrong way, the air dries between the tank and going into the valve block?
Thanks Simon

[Hoges]

Air is drawn into the front of the compressor housing through the round air filter which sits behind the holes in the front of the "EAS box". From there it goes through the air dryer and into the tank to be distributed via the valve block. When the suspension is lowered, the dry air from the airbags is purged back through the dryer via some clever switching in the valve block and exits via the valve block exhaust. In this manner the desiccant in the dryer is "recharged/regenerated".

It's a good idea to depressurise the system say once a year and then remove the drain bung in the air tank allowing any residual water to drain... Using a compressor outside the "system"...e.g the local servo or the compressor "everybody" carries because it's a 4wd..:wasntme: then it's likely some water will accumulate in the air tank. This can overload the desiccant material in the dryer.

If you want to properly regenerate the desiccant , remove it and heat it in the kitchen oven as follows: Remove the dryer and unscrew the top, taking care not to damage the filter material. Gently pour the desiccant material onto newspaper then carefully pour the desiccant into a sieve (a large kitchen strainer is ideal:angel::wasntme:). Separate the fine particulate material and discard it, and then spread the larger particles onto a shallow cooking tray and heat them for a couple of hours at 110 deg C in the kitchen oven. Let it cool in the oven...this is very important, you don't want the material to absorb moisture while cooling outside the oven. When it's room temp. carefully pour it back into the dryer trying not to crush the particles. Replace the filter material and screw the dryer shut. Reinstall dryer;) oh yeah, wash the strainer and the tray... the stuff is not toxic as such but wouldn't recommend it on your breakfast cereal!

[blindin]

Do you know what pipe comes from the tank?
What number on the valve block should I put pressure gauge?

[davidsonsm]

There's only one hose going to and from the air tank. I don't have a diagram to hand, but there's one 4mm hose (short length to drain/exhaust), 2x 8mm hoses (to and from the air drier), the four centralised 6mm hoses to the air springs and the 1x 6mm hose to and from the tank. Should be easy to spot as it's to one end of the valve block. I can take a picture tomorrow if required.

The section in rave describes the system well.

[davidsonsm]

Try this:

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/17338-eas-box-its-map.html#/forumsite/20563/topics/17338

[Keithy P38]

I'll have a look under the bonnet shortly mate, I'm running twin compressors on mine and have the second one going through the dryer too.

From memory it's the 8mm line going into the bottom of the dryer that you'll want to use if plumbing in a second compressor. I was unsure, so I disconnected both lines to the dryer, started the engine up and the one with air being fed out of it was diagnosed as the line from compressor #1. Simple elimination game.

As for the air lines from the tank to the valve block, I'm unsure. What I've done is remove the bung in the tank, fit an elbow with a stainless ball valve and then a tee piece with lines running front and rear. I have nitto fittings either end (the one at the rear I've run into the cab up above the tail light globe replacement panel). I love the idea of being able to isolate the air supply from the tank as I've also tapped into the rear air line for my air locker so no accidental engagements can occur.

Hope this helps!

Cheers
Keithy

[PaulP38a]

Print off a copy of this diagram or save it to your PC, phone etc for reference.

http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/EAS-ValveBlock-v1.5.pdf

Port 6 is the line to/from the tank
Port 7 is the line from compressor to the dryer
Port 5 is the line from the dryer to the valve block

Cheers, Paul.

[blindin]

Thanks for that. I have seen that a few times while searching, I just couldn't quite make sense of it, for what I was looking for. If I had realised the dryer was were it was, and actually looked at the hoses, I probably would've worked it out pretty quick. As a quick update on the job, I am going to add a pressure guage and nitto air fitting straight from the valve block. ( put a t-piece fitting between the valve block, and the hose from the compressor ) i'll fit another t-piece so I have a guage, and air line fitting. I also intend to run another hose, probably from the tank to the rear and another air hose fitting there. Any advice on the guages? I am a little worried how I can the guage and nitto fitting to tighten onto a bracket, have people used washers to fit between them, or some thing else?