D3 stuck on it's guts

[daneprocter]

So yesterday evening I had to change the front prop shaft in my 05 LR3. All mechanical stuff went according to plan, however, I left the ignition on the whole time and the battery went flat. After getting the car going again (jump started it off my old mans LR4) I am getting a suspension error and it won't lift up from it's lowest setting.

I have a llams kit which I have switched off and tried several times to clear the codes with my nanocom, but the fault still comes back.

I had it in super extended mode (so I could fit under the truck) while I did the work so I don't think it could be a leak.

Is there something I can do to reset the suspension? It still drives normally, except for excessive bouncing on the bump stops.

If you could point me in the right direction or share some information, It would be muchly appreciated!

[Epic pooh]

Charge your battery, do a hard reset and it will probably be back to normal.

[Graeme]

Are the raise and lower LEDS flashing? If so, press the raise button.

What fault does the Nanocom show?

[daneprocter]

Charge your battery, do a hard reset and it will probably be back to normal.

Battery has been charged. Sorry for my ignorance, but what is a hard reset?

[daneprocter]

I've just disconnected the batteries to double check they are properly charged.
I can't remember if the lights were flashing, I will check again when I connect the batteries up again.
The light on the dash that has been orange when other faults occurred has turned red.
I'll hook the batteries up and check again.

[Graeme]

You will need to get the fault codes.

[daneprocter]

Are the raise and lower LEDS flashing? If so, press the raise button.

What fault does the Nanocom show?

The lights aren't flashing. There is a red one on the dash.
I got a control module error on the nanocom and a c431 error. The rear is going up and down but the front is stuck at the lowest setting

[Graeme]

When did you get the Llams? If it was before about April this year then it needs a cable-tie to hold the 2 grey connectors together. Those connectors are for the front so suggests a possible cause but nothing to do with the work just completed or a flat battery.

[daneprocter]

I can't remember when I bought it, but I've only had the car for a bit over a month.
I've run out of light and organised a hire car to get to work tomorrow. Will have another crack at it tomorrow arvo. Might take the llams out and see if that does anything.

[Graeme]

Removing Llams will reduce the number of possible causes, including the remote possibility of the IC for the front sensors having been damaged during the jump-start.

[Epic pooh]

Seems odd, but a logical start.

Another comment, given the work performed, is all ok with the front height sensors (connected, undamaged etc) ? Can nanocom verify their position and operation (live values) ?

[daneprocter]

The nanocom is communicating with the sensors and giving a reading of the height, given this, I believe the sensors are working.
I am hoping removing the llams tomorrow will resolve the issue. I've flattened the battery a couple of times before when I forgot to turn off my fridge and jumped it off the spare battery with no issues.
I'm so bummed that this has happened especially at this time of year!

[Epic pooh]

Good luck - no Disco issue is insurmountable !

[daneprocter]

So I didn't get a chance to pull the llams out, but I did get the air suspension pump out. I pulled off the filter and gave it a bit of a clean.

When I clear the faults, I can select a height and the pump will kick over for a few seconds then stop.

I tested the pump on another battery, it is pretty noisy, but keeps running as long as the power is up to it.

I'll pull out the llams tomorrow and let you know how I go. It's too hot here and a long time past happy hour!

[Fred Nerk]

I am sorry, I can't help with your problem. I was disturbed to read....


I had it in super extended mode (so I could fit under the truck) while I did the work

I hope you had some supports in place so that the car could not lower and do bad things. I thought I should remind people that it is not safe under the car. It can lower without warning.

[daneprocter]

I am sorry, I can't help with your problem. I was disturbed to read....



I hope you had some supports in place so that the car could not lower and do bad things. I thought I should remind people that it is not safe under the car. It can lower without warning.

Yeah I had car stands under it! Wouldn't even get under a car on a jack without them.

[alpick]

Natural selection?

[gghaggis]

Try jacking the car up at the front (from the chassis rails) to approx access height, redo the hard reset and then try raising the car again.

If the sensors are below their expected minimum height, the car will register a fault and not air up the suspension.

Cheers,

Gordon

[daneprocter]

Try jacking the car up at the front (from the chassis rails) to approx access height, redo the hard reset and then try raising the car again.

If the sensors are below their expected minimum height, the car will register a fault and not air up the suspension.

Cheers,

Gordon

Thank's for the advice. I will give that a crack tomorrow.
I didn't get much done on it today. I have a physical disability and I get worn out pretty quick. I didn't have anyone around today to give me a hand.

[Graeme]

If the sensors are below their expected minimum height, the car will register a fault and not air up the suspension.It should raise from the bump-stops because bump-stops is a valid height after certain faults have occurred.

A conversion from the Nanocom reported code to the actual fault code would be useful.

How high does the rear go before the error occurs - to normal height or just a little?

[Epic pooh]

Mine has successfully lifted from completely deflated state (bump stops) without issue when doing work even when my sensors were mildly out of calibration.

I'd be removing llams as suggested by Graeme and then clearing fault (or hard reset) then try to raise suspension. If it doesn't raise, it would be interesting to see if it is the same fault or some other fault.

[daneprocter]

It should raise from the bump-stops because bump-stops is a valid height after certain faults have occurred.

A conversion from the Nanocom reported code to the actual fault code would be useful.

How high does the rear go before the error occurs - to normal height or just a little?

The back doesn't go up anymore. I used the nanocom to empty the air tank and now the compressor only fires for a few seconds and cuts off giving me the suspension error

[daneprocter]

Here is a list of the faults after I did a hard reset..

FAULT 1 OF 5
ECU: Transfer Case
CODE:U0132
Lost communication with ride level ctrl module / Lost communication with suspension ctrl module A
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 2 OF 5
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A75
Rear right height sensor mechanism
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 3 OF 5
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A27
Compressor circuit
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 4 OF 5
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A00
Control module
(PERMANENT)

FAULT 5 OF 5
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0421
Invalid data received from ride level control module
(PENDING)

[Epic pooh]

Did you take the llams out of the circuit as suggested by Graeme ?

[daneprocter]

Yeah, llams is out of the circuit

[Epic pooh]

Someone wiser than me will need to comment methinks.

Looking at those, gut feeling is that number 4 is the real issue and that the others are a factor of that. At a guess I would say check some of the connections to the xfer case module behind the battery, but that's just a guess. Sorry I can't be more enlightening :(

[daneprocter]

I've done another reset of the system and now getting these faults.

FAULT 1 OF 3
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A00
Control module
(PERMANENT)

FAULT 2 OF 3
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A00
Control module
(PERMANENT)

FAULT 3 OF 3
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0421
Invalid data received from ride level control module
(PENDING)

At least the list is getting smaller

[Graeme]

The back doesn't go up anymore. I used the nanocom to empty the air tank and now the compressor only fires for a few seconds and cuts off giving me the suspension errorSo it appears that the back was raising using the reservoir rather than a problem with the front.

Check the 5A suspension system fuse in the engine compartment fuse panel. This fuse is in the circuit from the compressor relay and is used to confirm that there is power to the compressor from the compressor relay and if its blown then the compressor will only be allowed to run for a second or 2.

[daneprocter]

So it appears that the back was raising using the reservoir rather than a problem with the front.

Check the 5A suspension system fuse in the engine compartment fuse panel. This fuse is in the circuit from the compressor relay and is used to confirm that there is power to the compressor from the compressor relay and if its blown then the compressor will only be allowed to run for a second or 2.

I changed out that fuse and the compressor runs for about 30 seconds now but with no change in the height of the car.

I believe when the back was rising up and down it was getting a signal from the llams unit to do so. There was air in the tank at that stage, but I emptied the springs and tank using the Nanocom. Do you think I need to replace the compressor?

[Graeme]

I've tracked-down a list of fault code explanations but C1A00 is non-specific so other suspension system fault codes are needed and C1A27 may be the clue. Re-plugging the compressor connectors might be worthwhile.

[Graeme]

What codes are now showing?

If the compressor is failing it may just be that its dryer is clogged which in an emergency can be run empty until more dessicant can be obtained.

[daneprocter]

I think I've narrowed it down to the compressor not pumping air into the tank. I cracked the release valve on the air tank after running the compressor several times and there was no pressure in it.

Just seeing what connections I have to try and put air into the tank using another compressor.

My old man has a 13plate Disco 4 and unfortunately it has a different looking compressor, I was going to put his in and see if it fixed the problem!

[Graeme]

The later compressor is an upgrade that involves shortening one of the hoses so once fitted, the old style can't be refitted.

Fault code C1A20 should be logged if the compressor is too slow at filling the reservoir. If it is then empty the dryer of its contents and try again.

I have successfully temporarily attached a tyre compressor to the inlet tube in place of the filter (inside the vehicle behind the left tail light cluster) but that also required some sort of clamp (small cable-tie or fine wire) on the ends of the little hose that's fitted between the compressor sump and another spot to prevent it being blown off when the tyre compressor is running.

Edit: There's a different fault code if the vehicle doesn't raise quickly enough. The reservoir isn't filled until the airsprings are up to height so C1A20 probably wont be seen if the vehicle doesn't raise properly.

[gghaggis]

Mine has successfully lifted from completely deflated state (bump stops) without issue when doing work even when my sensors were mildly out of calibration.

I'd be removing llams as suggested by Graeme and then clearing fault (or hard reset) then try to raise suspension. If it doesn't raise, it would be interesting to see if it is the same fault or some other fault.

If the vehicle was at a higher setting than normal (via LLAMS or rods) prior to it dropping to the bump-stops, then in most cases it will NOT rise. Not sure if that was the case here, but worth a try.

Cheers,

Gordon

[daneprocter]

If the vehicle was at a higher setting than normal (via LLAMS or rods) prior to it dropping to the bump-stops, then in most cases it will NOT rise. Not sure if that was the case here, but worth a try.

Cheers,

Gordon

It was at a higher setting due to llams before it dropped to the bump stops. I have since removed llams but still can't get the car to rise

[Graeme]

Because the compressor runs for even just a moment indicates that the suspension module is trying to raise the vehicle.

[daneprocter]

Because the compressor runs for even just a moment indicates that the suspension module is trying to raise the vehicle.

Would this indicate that the compressor is not functioning properly? When I check the tank pressure via my nanocom it is not registering any change in value.

[Graeme]

The air-springs have priority over the tank so if the vehicle is not being raised then the tank will not be filled.

It does seem that the compressor is not pumping. An air dryer (black plastic container with screws in one end) is part of the compressor assembly and often becomes blocked. The dryer can be unclipped by rotating after removing 1 screw. With the dryer removed, dismantle the dryer and discard what's left of the dessicant then reassemble and refit. There's also an inlet valve on the compressor that wears out - a repair kit can be purchased as can new dessicant for the dryer. However there is a possibility that the compressor has worn-out beyond repair in which case a new-style compressor kit should be obtained. The new compressor uses updated software mostly to lower the reservoir pressure (to make the compressor last longer) but it will run with the existing software.

[daneprocter]

Thank's heaps for all your help Graeme! If you're ever in Newcastle or Dubbo let me know and I'll shout you a beer or four.

I pulled apart the dryer, there were a few discoloured balls in there and the filters were clogged up. I cleaned it all up and put back together. After that I checked the air pressure coming out of the pump and found that the air was just going back into the crank.

I'm going to have a crack at a repair kit before committing to the expense of a new compressor.

[Graeme]

You're welcome! It seems a lifetime ago that I was last near Newcastle but I do go through Dubbo occasionally.

If you need a new compressor then a few people on AULRO have acquired them for a good prices.

[gghaggis]

It was at a higher setting due to llams before it dropped to the bump stops. I have since removed llams but still can't get the car to rise

Then it is likely that as the car was dropping to the bump-stops, the height sensors registered an illegally low reading (as the reading were being modified by the LLAMS kit) and will now stop the car raising. If you have the 4WD info screen, you would see a red warning bar above the offending wheel(s).

In which case you'd need to jack the car, hard reset and inflate.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Graeme]

Never have I encountered the need to do other than switch Llams off then recycle the ignition to overcome the situation of the suspension fully extended yet the suspension ecu thinks that the vehicle should raise further.

What were the last few events leading to the vehicle dropping? The first error code posted seems to be missing a number so cannot identify the initial error.

[Epic pooh]

I've never suffered compressor failure as I changed mine out for an AMK long before it became terminal (OCD!). But (absent experience) it seems very odd to me that it would raise the vehicle to an extended height before the work was performed and then refuse to function at the completion of the work (post jump start).

That said, my car has probably done things that are just as strange ... i'm looking at you memory seats ... !

[gghaggis]

Hmm - am I not understanding what the OP did? I thought it was something like:

* he raised the car to it's maximum height using LLAMS +50 setting
* he worked on the car
* started it (presumably still at the extra height setting)
* something had happened (presumably whilst working on the car) and it dropped to the bump stops.

If that's not (roughly) what happened then obviously my previous posts in this thread are of no use. However, if that was roughly the chain of events (and I've had it happen to me a few times when playing with different rod configurations), then the car dropping to the bump stops from a non-LR extra-height selection may send one or more "sensor out of range" errors (depending on specifically what caused the drop event), which will prevent the car from airing up even after the original fault that caused the car to drop is rectified.

Sometimes a lot of swearing, recyling of the ignition and multiple hard resets may fix the problem, but I've learned that simply raising the car with jacks (under the chassis rails, and after swapping the rods back to standard positions = setting LLAMS back to std heights) works first time.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Graeme]

This thread has obviously jinxed my D4. My 12-month-old AMK with the latest suspension ecu software available at the time today dropped the vehicle to the bump-stops after travelling 3 kms, which with old software would only have triggered the normal height only condition from the reservoir pressure rising too slowly. The vehicle had been at +30mm for the 1st 2 kms then back to normal height. There have been no 'rising slowly' messages since the AMK was fitted until now whilst getting back up to normal height. I have yet to read the suspension ecu codes to confirm my suspicion. Anyway now driving with 2 fuses removed and the vehicle getting higher as the day warms-up, but that's OK as it will come down to normal height tonight. I'm hoping to find the dryer clogged when I get time to investigate.

Update: I saw ABS fault U0421 (algorithm based fault from ride control) after the 2nd drop but didn't go on to look for suspension faults. After driving around with the suspension ecu not powered a 2nd ABS fault was logged indicating loss of contact with the ride level ecu - not unexpected. However there are NO suspension ecu faults and the suspenison now behaves properly even after multiple combined LR & Llams raisings and lowerings!

[Epic pooh]

I often feel jinxed by discussion about issues I don't have at the time of the discussion - gearbox being my particular jinx. Oh well c'est la vie. Be interested to hear what happens with your AMK Graeme.

Gordon, that's pretty much it bar the flat battery and jump start. As I said, no experience at deflating vehicle with additional height aids so this is all very interesting and illuminating.

[Graeme]

Be interested to hear what happens with your AMK Graeme.I suspect there will be more to tell.

[daneprocter]

This thread has obviously jinxed my D4. My 12-month-old AMK with the latest suspension ecu software available at the time today dropped the vehicle to the bump-stops after travelling 3 kms, which with old software would only have triggered the normal height only condition from the reservoir pressure rising too slowly. The vehicle had been at +30mm for the 1st 2 kms then back to normal height. There have been no 'rising slowly' messages since the AMK was fitted until now whilst getting back up to normal height. I have yet to read the suspension ecu codes to confirm my suspicion. Anyway now driving with 2 fuses removed and the vehicle getting higher as the day warms-up, but that's OK as it will come down to normal height tonight. I'm hoping to find the dryer clogged when I get time to investigate.

Update: I saw ABS fault U0421 (algorithm based fault from ride control) after the 2nd drop but didn't go on to look for suspension faults. After driving around with the suspension ecu not powered a 2nd ABS fault was logged indicating loss of contact with the ride level ecu - not unexpected. However there are NO suspension ecu faults and the suspenison now behaves properly even after multiple combined LR & Llams raisings and lowerings!

Gotta love computers

[Epic pooh]

How did you guys get on with your issues ?

[Graeme]

Mine's little hiccup hasn't re-occurred.

I had bumped the gbox into top gear a second or 2 prior to the 1st 50 kph warning and subsequent dropping. I heard the beep and expected a gbox fault msg because I had just up-shifted using my version of paddles although up and down shifting using my paddles has never caused any problems. I don't know if the same sequence occurred the 2nd time but the distance from the last corner and crest was about normal for another bump into top gear but also about the usual elapsed time since the restart for a reservoir filling too slowly fault to occur if the compressor is failing. However I wonder if messed-up canbus messages resulted in an erroneous ABS-stored suspension plausibility fault, considering that the suspension ecu itself did not record any faults.

[Epic pooh]

That's "characterful" of it ... Perhaps It was just participating in the thread in its own special way ;)

Do you have non factory flappy paddles fitted ?

Glad to hear it was not the AMK !

[daneprocter]

Mine is still on its guts in my driveway. I rang around and got prices on a new compressor, varying in price from 550 for a second hand one to 1450 for a new one. I've ordered a rebuild kit from the UK and are going to have a crack at that first.

[Graeme]

Do you have non factory flappy paddles fitted ?Not paddles as such. I have a 4-button remote control fob stuck to the right side of the steering wheel near my fingertips. The buttons operate a relay box mounted in the engine bay near the brake m/c and gbox wiring harness connectors that switches inputs to a microprocessor that switches the upshift or downshift gbox signal wires to earth. The microprocessor is in the circuit to limit the "on" time of the button to 200 ms so as to not exceed the time limit on the signal wires if the button is held for too long, plus to exclude contact bounce from the relays. The other 2 buttons are setup to hold or release the sport/manual signal wire to earth but I don't use those, having a few times not cancelled sport/manual before moving the lever to neutral which then logs a gearshift mechanism fault that requires a restart to get sport/manual to work again. Up-shifting or down-shifting whilst in auto mode means that I don't have to remember to move the lever back from manual mode although gear selection is still subject to the whims of auto mode.

I had the offer of apparently a good price for a wheel from an RRS but it was still too expensive for the minor benefit.

[Epic pooh]

That's an interesting mod Graeme ! I wish I was half as clever with such things ! Did you do it for ease of shifting or because the +/- is backwards (haha) ?

[discotwinturbo]

That's an interesting mod Graeme ! I wish I was half as clever with such things ! Did you do it for ease of shifting or because the +/- is backwards (haha) ?

Graeme, time to Market this to us members with a bigger paddle version ?

Brett...

[Graeme]

Only the inserted microprocessor was my idea.

I generally like to up-shift early to use torque rather than revs as I always have done driving a manual but fitted this because I too often left the lever in sport/manual then later wondered why the box wouldn't change up. This way I just bump as required at the time then forget about gear changing.

I don't know how my buttons compare with real paddles as it is easy and discrete to press either button with a fingertip of my right hand but the hand does need to be nearby.

[Graeme]

Graeme, time to Market this to us members with a bigger paddle version ?My initial thought was to mount 2 button switches near where the paddles mount and locate the remote behind the airbag but having to wire those switches to the circuit board of the remote instead of its switches would be quite fiddly, as well as the inconvenience of having to remove the airbag to replace the battery every couple of years even without considering the defacing of the wheel.

Any 2/3/4 channel wireless remote/relay kit will do the job and I can provide the baby module to ensure no prolongued activations or switch contact or relay contact bounce if anyone want to setup one. As this method doesn't use the paddle interface there's no requirement to enable paddles.

It might be worth inquiring about the cost of a used 2010+RRS wheel from a UK wreckers as an early D4 would only need the paddles enabled using a suitable diagnostic tool.

[Epic pooh]

Nice idea Graeme, I totally get it, that behaviour using sport/manual annoys me at times too ... I would love to have that level of control over mine, would be very useful.

I am going to embark on some tech updates to mine for it's upcoming 10th birthday (GVIF, surround cameras, improved phone/bluetooth, airplay via wifi and 2-4 more USB ports) and have been toying with putting on a D4/RRS wheel with flappy paddles on mine using the conversion kit that is available from BBS. How much of that turns from gunna to done and over what period, we will see.

[shanegtr]

Did you do it for ease of shifting or because the +/- is backwards (haha) ?

Why the hell do car makers do the manual auto shift thing the wrong way? I wonder if theres an easy way to swap the manual shift to be the right way?

[daneprocter]

Why the hell do car makers do the manual auto shift thing the wrong way? I wonder if theres an easy way to swap the manual shift to be the right way?

I've always thought this as well!

[Graeme]

Why the hell do car makers do the manual auto shift thing the wrong way? I wonder if theres an easy way to swap the manual shift to be the right way?
The JLR performance division's latest RRS has them switched around. Its easy to do by swapping the upshift and downshift request wires in one of the connectors between the gearshift mechanism and the TCU. It would really get the LR service people scratching their heads!

Edit: Swap wires 5 & 6 in the connector at the gearshift mechanism. The connector is on left side.

[shanegtr]

The JLR performance division's latest RRS has them switched around. Its easy to do by swapping the upshift and downshift request wires in one of the connectors between the gearshift mechanism and the TCU. It would really get the LR service people scratching their heads!

Edit: Swap wires 5 & 6 in the connector at the gearshift mechanism. The connector is on left side.

Im going to have a look at that:D

[Graeme]

You might have to get the Texta out too!

[daneprocter]

Got a new pump into the car and it is still stuck on it's guts.
I'm getting a permanent C1A00 error now. I'm all out of ideas so I guess its off to the stealership.

[Graeme]

Have you re-checked that the 4 connectors at the suspension ecu are properly seated?

[daneprocter]

Have you re-checked that the 4 connectors at the suspension ecu are properly seated?

I haven't checked that. A massive storm has just blown over so I've given up for now.

The pump is was working on the bench before I put it in. It was pumping our heaps more pressure than before but my nanocom isn't registering a change in pressure in the reservoir.

[Graeme]

The vehicle target height has to be reached before the reservoir will be filled although I don't know whether it starts to fill at the same time or not. I suspect that the reservoir valve stays closed whilst the pump is running to raise the vehicle and only opens once the vehicle is up to height.

[daneprocter]

The vehicle target height has to be reached before the reservoir will be filled although I don't know whether it starts to fill at the same time or not. I suspect that the reservoir valve stays closed whilst the pump is running to raise the vehicle and only opens once the vehicle is up to height.

At the moment it is stuck on the bump stops. If I jacked it up and put it on stands do you think that would trick the computer to thinking it was close to correct height?

[daneprocter]

Ok, I've done a rebuild on the the compressor and it is pumping a lot more than the old one did.

Something isn't right with the ride height ecu. I've still got a red symbol on the dash and it turns all the height controls and traction stuff off after awhile. The car doesn't drop so I think I will be leaving it this way till after christmas.

[gghaggis]

Did you try jacking up the vehicle (from the chassis rails), as I mentioned a few pages back?

Cheers,

Gordon

[daneprocter]

Did you try jacking up the vehicle (from the chassis rails), as I mentioned a few pages back?

Cheers,

Gordon

I did jack it up before I rebuilt the air compressor but that didn't help.

After I put the rebuilt compressor in, the car pumped up to an acceptable height. but the red light is still on the dash. I can clear it with the nanocom but it comes back immediately. Using the llams I can make it go to extended height. I believe there is some calibration I need to do with the ride height unit, but I don't know how to do this.

Even with the red light on, warnings about being speed limited (I don't think that works cause I've done 110km on the freeway to work) The car only partly drops if I use the paddle which I can momentarily use when I start the car.

[Graeme]

Have another look at the fault codes being stored for both the suspension ecu and the ABS ecu. You might have to get the codes retrieved using a different diagnostic tool if the nanocom isn't giving enough information.

The speed limit warning is only a warning to the driver, not an imposed limit.

[Epic pooh]

Can nanocom do height sensor calibration ?

[daneprocter]

Can nanocom do height sensor calibration ?

It can but I don't know what the hights are supposed to be. I can dump all the air out with the nanocom, but it is a pain in the ass to pump the air back in cause the system faults and stops me having access to the height paddle. I have to reset the code and continue to pump repeating those steps until its up high.

I remember reading in the nanocom book to take the height level numbers down and keep them in a safe place for this such event. I thought I will do that when I have a play with the suspension!

[Epic pooh]

This may be a bum steer but the iidtool manual has the correct measures heights (is the vehicle at the right heights when inflated) and a calibration sheet to work from best sensor height to correct heights. Don't know if this would help or waste time but here it is http://www.gap-diagnostic.com/support/documents.html

[Graeme]

After I put the rebuilt compressor in, the car pumped up to an acceptable height. but the red light is still on the dash. I can clear it with the nanocom but it comes back immediately. Using the llams I can make it go to extended height.I'm sure this is not a height sensor fault or calibration issue. A single out of range height sensor triggers an amber warning but more than 1 will trigger the suspension lowering to the bump-stops. Out of calibration only results in the vehicle leaning. With Llams off, is the "acceptable" height about access height or normal height? If about access height then its likely to be a brake system fault.

[daneprocter]

I'm sure this is not a height sensor fault or calibration issue. A single out of range height sensor triggers an amber warning but more than 1 will trigger the suspension lowering to the bump-stops. Out of calibration only results in the vehicle leaning. With Llams off, is the "acceptable" height about access height or normal height? If about access height then its likely to be a brake system fault.

With the llams off, only the front seems to raise and drop while the rear stays at offroad or extended offroad. When I try to lower it, the front drops but the onscreen display says it's gone to extended offroad.

[Graeme]

If the nanocom isn't showing specific suspension faults then you need to get it properly diagnosed otherwise you'll be guessing and stuffing around forever.

[daneprocter]

Been several months and several mechanics and still haven't found the issue. I've got it to a point now where I can drive it at normal height with an amber light on the dash. Every now and then, an error occurs and it starts dropping. I knock the car into neutral, turn it on and off, and then start it up again. The car pumps back up to normal height and I continue my journey.

Will be putting into the mechanics again shortly. Will let you all know how I go!

[Graeme]

Is the warning light amber when the ignition is switched on but the engine not yet started or is it off but goes amber a few minutes after the engine is started?

[daneprocter]

Is the warning light amber when the ignition is switched on but the engine not yet started or is it off but goes amber a few minutes after the engine is started?

It is on as soon as the ignition is turned on.

[Graeme]

On at start-up, therefore nothing to do with the compressor's ability to pump quickly enough.

Has any diagnostic tool other than your Nanocom been used to retrieve the fault codes? The warning light being on at start-up should have stored a code, possibly for an open circuit on a cross-link or reservoir valve.

Until the cause is found and resolved you would do well to remove the 20A suspension system fuse from the engine bay fuse box to stop the suspension lowering (its required to operate the valves) and the 5A suspension system fuse from the passenger compartment fuse box (ignition-on feed) to stop the annoying 50 kph messages every minute or so.

[daneprocter]

Just an update for anyone that may be interested. No one has been able to pinpoint the cause of the problem.

I can dump the air out of the suspension, putting it into service mode. Once I restart the car, it says there is a suspension fault but raises the car back up to standard level. The yellow light remains on the dash but it doesn't drop on its guts while I'm driving anymore.

Whenever I need to go offroad, I can plug the Nanocom in and raise the car that way.

I've got some time off over Christmas so I might have another play with it then.