first Issue with the New to me D3

[Leroy_Riding]

so the D3 died on me the other day while driving down the highway.
cut out, no power.
the hill decent light, a exclamation mark in a circle light and one other which I forget came on, along with an 'F' on the screen that normally show the Auto gear you are in when in manual mode if that makes sence?

pulled over, turned it off, turned it back on again and all good.

Lucky I was on the way to my mates work anyway as he is a Mechanic,
We hooked the snap-on scan tool up to it and it has a few few codes (i had read and cleared them all once since purchase)
the main one I remember and that stuck out was 'Rail pressure Low'

I've got the whole list printed out and left them on the ECU this time and called the dealer/car yard I got the car from, they down played it said ti will be nothing and that non land rover scan tools are never anywhere near correct when reading faults and that he will take it to MR auto to have them check it. (sounds a bit off to me, as the snap on scan tool lets you read and see everything live and to read and clear the codes, so I doubt its way off?)
so I drop it to him Thursday morning for all this to happen.

Im worried its going to be the VCV or high pressure pump and that they will stuff me around till the 30 day stat warranty is up so they dont have to fix it,
what are peoples opinions? its only done this once to me, and I wasn't booting the thing int he guts either at the time (which I do so on occasion anyway and it doesn't fault then)

ill be calling MR auto the check this guy does take it too them, and also asking them to advice me on what they find (via my Mates work shop who deal with MR on a weekly basis)

finger crossed its nothing serious, and either way that it is repaired under Warranty for me!
Ill try and remember to post a list of the codes when I get home tonight.

Leroy.

[winaje]

I would have thought that if you can prove the problem occurred and was reported within the 30 day statutory warranty period, they would be obliged to fix it under warranty if the exact same problem persisted after the 30 days expires.

[Leroy_Riding]

I would have thought that if you can prove the problem occurred and was reported within the 30 day statutory warranty period, they would be obliged to fix it under warranty if the exact same problem persisted after the 30 days expires.

Not sure, hopefully,
the rail pressure low fault is on the print out from the faults when I picked the car up too, so its not like it occurred for the first time after I got it either it seems.

not sure what it could be other than VCV or maybe a blocked fuel filter?

Leroy.

[catch-22]

They'll have to fix it.

Do yourself a favour and put everything to them in writing, without exception. Document for yourself conversations, times and dates, content of the conversation and any agreements or disagreements - then follow all of them up in writing..

[101RRS]

What faults came back after clearing them - that will weed out the one offs and show if there is actually anything wrong.

I must admit I would not be worrying about it unless it happens repeatedly. The systems hiccup from time to time and I always ignore one off faults. The only ones that ever came back after clearing in 4 years of ownership have been EGR faults - highlighting there was an ongoing issue with these.

Garry

[Leroy_Riding]

They'll have to fix it.

Do yourself a favour and put everything to them in writing, without exception. Document for yourself conversations, times and dates, content of the conversation and any agreements or disagreements - then follow all of them up in writing..

Already emailed them confirming im bringing it in Thursday, and why, and the date of when it died out and the fault code of concern.


What faults came back after clearing them - that will weed out the one offs and show if there is actually anything wrong.

I must admit I would not be worrying about it unless it happens repeatedly. The systems hiccup from time to time and I always ignore one off faults. The only ones that ever came back after clearing in 4 years of ownership have been EGR faults - highlighting there was an ongoing issue with these.

Garry

From Memory the returning Codes were the Rail pressure Low, and also an EGR fault.

ill try and remember to Scan the sheets tonight and post the codes from pickup which I cleared and then the codes from Saturday when it died on me.

I'm sure it will be fine and that the dealer will sort it out, just a little nervous as a guy I work with after I got the car told me the same dealer refused to fix some faults on a Jeep he purchased from them less then 2 weeks after he picked up the car, the seem nice enough on the phone, and I will give them the benefit of the doubt.
I am not on here to shame them, I am on here to get advice on what the issue could possibly be in order to save myself money and worry in the future when I am out of the warranty period.

Thanks
Leroy.

[Nicky]

Bought from a non-dealer? You really need a LandRover shop to do this, ask them to send it there!

[Leroy_Riding]

Bought from a non-dealer? You really need a LandRover shop to do this, ask them to send it there!

from a Car yard who always have Land Rovers and mostly land rovers.
they told me they will have MR Auto do the diagnosis, like I said, im not here to bag out the dealer/yard at all, im here asking if anyone has any idea what the issue could be. I have faith in Mr auto's ability to find the real issue and advice then have the dealer/yard fix/have MR fix the car under warranty.

Leroy.

[101RRS]

From Memory the returning Codes were the Rail pressure Low, and also an EGR fault.



Did the Engine Management Light (EML) come on after the codes were cleared?

If not then there may just be minor communication issues. Certainly if you have faulty EGRs you will have the orange EML light on and the car may run like a dog depending whether the EGRs are locked open or closed. Not sure what happens with a Low Rail Pressure fault though.

I hope it is all sorted.

Garry

[Leroy_Riding]

Did the Engine Management Light (EML) come on after the codes were cleared?

If not then there may just be minor communication issues. Certainly if you have faulty EGRs you will have the orange EML light on and the car may run like a dog depending whether the EGRs are locked open or closed. Not sure what happens with a Low Rail Pressure fault though.

I hope it is all sorted.

Garry

no lights came on after the Codes were cleared.
what does the EML light look like? as i cannot remember the third light that came on when it cut out.

Thanks
Leroy.

[101RRS]

Used to be called the Check Engine Light - Is in the shape of an engine and sits at the top of the tacho - just to the left.

[Leroy_Riding]

Used to be called the Check Engine Light - Is in the shape of an engine and sits at the top of the tacho - just to the left.

highly likely this is the 3rd light that came on when the car died out, as its in the right spot for where I saw the light.
but no lights came on after clearing the codes though.

Leroy.

[101RRS]

If it is under warranty I would definitely get it all checked out - EGRs too.

If you find it is not covered then my previous post about just driving it applies - the car will tell you what is going on and if there is an issue developing then the faults will start reoccurring.

My EGRs failed over 6 months - just the occasional fault which cleared but as time went on they would not clear - then time to fix.

garry

[Leroy_Riding]

If it is under warranty I would definitely get it all checked out - EGRs too.

If you find it is not covered then my previous post about just driving it applies - the car will tell you what is going on and if there is an issue developing then the faults will start reoccurring.

My EGRs failed over 6 months - just the occasional fault which cleared but as time went on they would not clear - then time to fix.

garry

Ill see what they come back with after Thursday. having a best friend who is a Mechanic, and knowing the fellas at MR auto, who apparently the dealer/yard is taking the car too on Thursday to have the codes read should get something actioned.

Leroy.

[Rich84]

The funny thing with these cars is that, the more errors you get at once, the more likely it is that there is only one actual problem causing it all.

The majority of the time that problem turns out to be voltage related caused by something having its wires crossed or vice versa. Some examples:
-brake light switch
-tail lights (yes, blown taillight bulbs are a big cause of faults!)
-battery terminals loose or corroded
-alternator dead or not charging enough
-battery voltage not high enough

Some of my own experiences and fixes:
1. PARK BRAKE FAULT/TRANSMISSION FAULT LIMITED GEARS AVAILABLE/F in gear display/HDC FAULT all at once. CAUSE: Low battery voltage from me listening to stereo for a few hours while working on the car

2. Same as above but add SYSTEM FAULT SPECIAL PROGRAMS NOT AVAILABLE + charge light + acrid smell + whirring noise - CAUSE: Dead alternator, battery charge dropped below 10v. Replacement of battery and alternator fixed it.

3. Radio momentarily turns off followed by bongs and several faults on the screen. CAUSE: loose battery terminal. Tightened and all good.

Garry's advice following fault codes would be a good start - a recurring code could point you in the direction of a part that could be shorting and causing all the other problems.

[101RRS]

Used to be called the Check Engine Light - Is in the shape of an engine and sits at the top of the tacho - just to the left.

Is actually in the top left of the speedo - when previously replying I was looking at the instrument section of the workshop manual and it showed in the tacho.

Starting up my car this morning I noticed it is in the speedo not the tacho.

Garry

[Leroy_Riding]

Okay guys, sorry it took so long to get these up,
the shorter PDF was the Scan on the day I picked the car up, as you can see the rain pressure low fault is on that one also.

and the longer PDF was on the 15th when the car died on me. slightly different print outs, as when we printed the first one we only printed the codes, but thought wed print a proper 'report' when to died to give to the dealer.

[VladTepes]

You shoulda bought a Defender mate !

Oh, wait.... :lol2:

[Leroy_Riding]

You shoulda bought a Defender mate !

Oh, wait.... :lol2:

dont make me rattle off the LONG LONG LONG list of thigns that went wrong with the Defender over the course of its ownership. . . Im sure Id have to use multiple posts to fit it all in!

[101RRS]

I can't really help but it does indicate an EGR problem and if these are locked open when you want power could make it run like a dog.

I suspect many of those codes have been in there for a long time - need to note these as you have done, have them cleared and go for a long drive and then read again - these are the ones that will be important but most will be communication issues most of which will be inconsequential.

Garry

[Leroy_Riding]

I can't really help but it does indicate an EGR problem and if these are locked open when you want power could make it run like a dog.

I suspect many of those codes have been in there for a long time - need to note these as you have done, have them cleared and go for a long drive and then read again - these are the ones that will be important but most will be communication issues most of which will be inconsequential.

Garry

Thanks Garry,

If you look at the 'long' PDF you will see there are Dates from the 6th, and dates from the 15th.
after the codes were read on the 6th we cleared them all, so everything shown on the 15th is when I scanned it after it died on me so all those codes have returned over the 9 days since it was last cleared. In that time it had done about 450kms or so.
they are on one sheet like that as that's how they re saved under my 'file' on the snap on scan tool at my friends Work.

The EGR could be sticking open, not sure, it doesn't feel like its got as much power as it could have, but then again it is one heavy beast of a car and I only have petrol's to compare too.

Leroy.

[101RRS]

Sorry - missed that aspect - on looking again to my untrained eye it does seem as if you have EGR issues and Low fuel Pressure.

On the second aspect, my 07MY RRS (applies to D3) as well had to have a recall done on the Injection Pump - you might want to see if this applied to your VIN and whether it was done.

Garry

[Leroy_Riding]

Sorry - missed that aspect - on looking again to my untrained eye it does seem as if you have EGR issues and Low fuel Pressure.

On the second aspect, my 07MY RRS (applies to D3) as well had to have a recall done on the Injection Pump - you might want to see if this applied to your VIN and whether it was done.

Garry

thanks Garry, ill check out the VIN for the Recal,
The Dealer/Yard seems to think its going to be the brake light switchhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/359.jpg no idea what makes him think that. but will see what they say tomorrow after they have had the car for the Day. turns out also they wont eb taking it to MR auto like the originally told me, and that they would have their workshop look at it. . . . anyway we shall see.
If it keeps faulting on EGR and injector pressure low, am I wrong to expect that they should at least do some tests on the pump and injectors, and also the EGR valve?

Leroy.

[BobD]

A brake switch fault causes massive failure of everything and warning lights come on everywhere, with a car that won't move at all eventually. However, from what I can gather there is no error recorded that alerts the techs to the fact that it is the brake switch causing all the problems.


When my D4 switch failed at about 70,000km and I managed to limp to the dealer in peak hour traffic, the dealer said it was a software issue, updated the software and sent me on my way. An hour or so later I just made it home and I could not get into my driveway. It got trucked to the dealer and this time, with a permanent failure of the switch rather than intermittent failure, they managed to track down the fault.


They could be right but you will soon find out anyway, I suspect.


Bob

[Leroy_Riding]

Well let a hope the D3 makes it too the dealer tomorrow. Tried to go gr8 a short drive tonight with a friend, it cut out 3 times, so I took it home and we took her car, little embarrassing!!! Hopefully it's a simple fix and they find and fix it tomorrow then!! I can't be without a car!

Leroy.

[Leroy_Riding]

Took a photo of the lights this time

[Leroy_Riding]

Called Land rover Australia, checked the VIN they told me all recalls have been done, including the injector pump which was done in 2009 on the vehicle.
they couldnt shed any light on the issue I am having either.

My Mechanic is pretty set on it being the VCV but obviously cant touch the car further till the dealer/yard is done with it, phone call to MR auto by my mechanic also comes to more or less the same conclusion and that they have seen it before and would also point blame at the VCV in the first instance.

so we shall see.
the dealer/yard tried to pin blame on my newly fitted headunit, but the codes were showing and the car doing this before the unit was fitted, he seemed adamant that was it to untill i explained the only error he is getting from that is the canbus cant find the cd player error and thats all. and that the issue ws there when i picked up the car and returned multiple times before the new head unit was fitted. . . he didn't seem to happy, apparently they are going to take it for a long drive and see if it fualts for them. there goes all my diesel! haha oh well, hopefully it gets sorted. . . apparently a new pump is only around $1000 anyway? lots less than the one i had to replace on my defender (twice!)

[Leroy_Riding]

for those following,
Dealer Yard has said they narrow it down to either battery low voltage (guess that could indicate possible future alternator failure?)
or the hand brake. . .

so they cleared the codes, and said that it shouldn't come back but if it does they will book it in to MR auto,
At least they tried, ill check the tail light bulbs tonight. . . seems across the inter-webs that's what everyone blames for everything so might be worth looking into anyway.

will let everyone know if anything new occurs or happens. going for a bit of a trip on Saturday (highway not offroad) will see how we go.

Leroy.

[Leroy_Riding]

Well, no change, took a short drive the other night(Friday) from Burpengary to northlakes (15 mins) and it faulted once on the way there, then 6 times ont he way home 0_0

I tried narrowing it down, seeing as the dealer/yard claimed it was likely a low voltage issue, I thought maybe it could be that i had stereo blasting AC going and headlights on, so i turned them all off windows down and kept going and it just continually faulted making for a fun drive home. yet all day Saturday I drove it around, and all day yesterday. really not sure.

anyway, i now need to find a time i can be without a car for a few days while they send it to Mr auto to attempt to sort it out.

Leroy.

[Rich84]

Your faults do seem to indicate low system voltage or one of the common "short" faults that T5 platform cars have (brake light switch, brake light bulb, etc). Note the "communication failure" messages - the various computers simply will fail to operate with insufficient voltage and you will get the lost communication error. Normally the alt on our cars doesn't fail slowly over time, the diode pack at the back literally self destructs in an instant and it's all over - charge fault light should come on (mine did when alternator died). I also got a whirring noise like a dead bearing, smoke (!) and voltage just under 12 at idle.

Once voltage dropped under 10 I started having real problems - numerous faults (including F gear error), transmission allowing engine to rev to 4500 then brutally slamming the next gear, no power. New battery and alternator and all good again.

The only time something like this ever happened again, as I said earlier, I had been listening to the stereo for a couple of hours while installing an auto trans cooler. I let the car run with the faults for about five minutes, turned off and restarted, and all has been well since.

The battery in these cars, for reasons I don't fully understand yet, seems to play an essential role in the electrical system and balancing out voltage etc. In all other cars I've owned or maintained, if the battery is low but the engine is running, the car will not suffer any problems at all - it will just drive normally and charge the battery. In our LRs, the system voltage appears to be affected directly by the battery, and if the battery has a dead cell or is a bit low, the system will experience cascading errors as you have experienced.

I would attempt to swap the battery for a known good one to see if that makes a difference, and thoroughly clean the terminals at the same time. I was able to use the battery from a Triton in an emergency once - you could see if one of your mates has a battery that will work. If it does, replace your battery with a proper spec unit. I'm using a DIN85L century 780CCA on a TDV6 - had it for about two years with no issues.

EDIT: I also noticed your D3 doesn't have the centre LCD - what model is that? I haven't seen that before!

[Leroy_Riding]

Your faults do seem to indicate low system voltage or one of the common "short" faults that T5 platform cars have (brake light switch, brake light bulb, etc). Note the "communication failure" messages - the various computers simply will fail to operate with insufficient voltage and you will get the lost communication error. Normally the alt on our cars doesn't fail slowly over time, the diode pack at the back literally self destructs in an instant and it's all over - charge fault light should come on (mine did when alternator died). I also got a whirring noise like a dead bearing, smoke (!) and voltage just under 12 at idle.

Once voltage dropped under 10 I started having real problems - numerous faults (including F gear error), transmission allowing engine to rev to 4500 then brutally slamming the next gear, no power. New battery and alternator and all good again.

The only time something like this ever happened again, as I said earlier, I had been listening to the stereo for a couple of hours while installing an auto trans cooler. I let the car run with the faults for about five minutes, turned off and restarted, and all has been well since.

The battery in these cars, for reasons I don't fully understand yet, seems to play an essential role in the electrical system and balancing out voltage etc. In all other cars I've owned or maintained, if the battery is low but the engine is running, the car will not suffer any problems at all - it will just drive normally and charge the battery. In our LRs, the system voltage appears to be affected directly by the battery, and if the battery has a dead cell or is a bit low, the system will experience cascading errors as you have experienced.

I would attempt to swap the battery for a known good one to see if that makes a difference, and thoroughly clean the terminals at the same time. I was able to use the battery from a Triton in an emergency once - you could see if one of your mates has a battery that will work.

EDIT: I also noticed your D3 doesn't have the centre LCD - what model is that? I haven't seen that before!

Its a 2007 My08 D3 'S' model

I've seen the charred remains of an alternator my mate who is a mechanics pulled from a D3 that was towed in to his shop the other week, possibly that's my issue.
i might throw a voltmeter on the battery and run it into the Cab and drive it like that so I can see the voltage when it faults.

the battery was replaced last last year by Austral motors (its got a date written on it and 3 years warranty in nikko 0_0) perhaps the previous owners attempt to resolve the same issue?

as stated before, It does appear to have the winch cabled direct to the battery, which has been said to be a No no for the D3,and also have a 'Mechanical' solenoid type dual battery isolator fitted by the previous owner also which has been said to again be a 'no no' for the D3 (even though no second battery is fitted)

I think I will start by disconnection both of these and putting the battery on Charge overnight to get it right up to voltage, then test the charge voltage the Alternator is giving? do I need any fancy charger for the D3? or can I just charge it like I normally would with a regulated power supply? (been keeping my Optima going for the better part of 8 years)

Leroy.

[Glynhouse]

That photo of the dash panel is identical to mine - MY07.

DD

[101RRS]

EDIT: I also noticed your D3 doesn't have the centre LCD - what model is that? I haven't seen that before!

Yes noticed that as well - was a bit confused by that as well.

Also my battery is 7 1/2 years old and I accidently left the ignition on for a few hours and the battery was dead as a door nail - not even enough power to light dash lights or internal lights. Wouldn't even jump start where it has done before.

I put it on the SCA smart charger for about 30 mins which put enough power in the battery to start up - lots of lost communication codes but nothing permanent. After driving for a while the battery was back and I have had no issues since.

So if the charging system is working as it is, it will bring flat batteries back if they are still basically OK.

So what I would do is:

Replace the brake switch (they are about $20 and you can do it yourself.

Check your brake lights are all working.

Remove your Manifold Air Pressure sensor - next to the oil filter - and clean it - don't poke anything down the hole and reinstall.

Beg, borrow or steal another battery and put it in.

Clear all code

Go for a drive and see what happens (given the information you have provided you may still EGR codes)

You can do all of the above yourself and may eliminate any cascading issues and may show up any charging issue.

If the problems still exist well you need professional assistance - not from your seller or local mechanic but a good indy or dealer with the right diagnostic gear.

[Tassiefender]

Its a 2007 My08 D3 'S' model

I've seen the charred remains of an alternator my mate who is a mechanics pulled from a D3 that was towed in to his shop the other week, possibly that's my issue.
i might throw a voltmeter on the battery and run it into the Cab and drive it like that so I can see the voltage when it faults.

the battery was replaced last last year by Austral motors (its got a date written on it and 3 years warranty in nikko 0_0) perhaps the previous owners attempt to resolve the same issue?

as stated before, It does appear to have the winch cabled direct to the battery, which has been said to be a No no for the D3,and also have a 'Mechanical' solenoid type dual battery isolator fitted by the previous owner also which has been said to again be a 'no no' for the D3 (even though no second battery is fitted)

I think I will start by disconnection both of these and putting the battery on Charge overnight to get it right up to voltage, then test the charge voltage the Alternator is giving? do I need any fancy charger for the D3? or can I just charge it like I normally would with a regulated power supply? (been keeping my Optima going for the better part of 8 years)

Leroy.
G'day Leroy,


I had a D3, and now a D4. At some point, I have experienced those lights and more! So....


The D3 - ended up being a faulty brake light. In the end, sent me into crawl mode on the highway. Initially the faults cleared, but progressively got worse. Bulb fixed the problem, but others came with a dying battery. Upside? Replaced all bulbs, the brake switch AND the starter battery - nil further issues.


The D4 - registered gearbox fault and suspension fault three times. Each time, a re-start seemed to fix. Then bang! Would happen again. Every time, it was a bulb... (in this case the headlights). Been four months - no problems!


Good luck - make sure the dealer gets LR to check it out though within your warranty. If it is worse than a bulb or switch, it could cost you mega $$$$

[Graeme]

as stated before, It does appear to have the winch cabled direct to the battery, which has been said to be a No no for the D3
If you are referring to the winch earth lead then guaranteed that will cause a battery voltage problem because the load monitor will be bypassed, although there could also be other reasons.

[HarryO]

Had exactly the same intermittent problems - fault code stated faulty crank position sensor (bloody replaced three times). It eventually turned out to be the negative cable termination on the battery. Replaced the cable with a standard "Battery World" type cable and have not had a problem since.


See post http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/183985-engine-fault-light-crankshaft-position-sensor.html

[Nomad9]

Hi There,
Fuel pump gets you every time............. At the time it was suspected either electrical or the fuel pump. Never proven either way, all I know is I lost something special on this day. Neighbours noticed the smoke and called the local fire brigade.

[Epic pooh]

That photo makes me sad Marty :(

[CaverD3]

Nomad,
which year model?
Had the HPFP recall been done?

[jonesy63]

Called Land rover Australia, checked the VIN they told me all recalls have been done, including the injector pump which was done in 2009 on the vehicle.

I'm calling BS on this comment from LR!

Land Rover (http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/997270)

Notice the date? November 2010... so if it was replaced in 2009 - you still have an old style HPFP which should have been replaced after November 2010!

Hint: it is often easier to get a dealership to bat for you in these recalls.

Good luck!

Rob

[Nomad9]

Hi There,
This was a 2005 TDV6 S model, Buckingham blue. Had the brake servo mod recall done, at the time I wasn't aware of the HPFP recall, not sure if it was even out. I went down to the shops and smelt something strange when I got home, I left it in the front garden and took my P38 to run some errands with the intention to investigate further when I returned home when the engine had cooled down. I had just been to the shop to get two new 9Kg LPG refills thankfully I took them out and put them in the shed before I left the house, could have been a different story again.

Next thing I knew the neighbour was calling me telling me my car was on fire, thought she was talking the "micky" until I was getting close to home and saw the black plume of smoke coming out of my street. The bonnet melted and made a pretty artistic shape under the car.

[Leroy_Riding]

I'm calling BS on this comment from LR!

Land Rover (http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/997270)

Notice the date? November 2010... so if it was replaced in 2009 - you still have an old style HPFP which should have been replaced after November 2010!

Hint: it is often easier to get a dealership to bat for you in these recalls.

Good luck!

Rob

I cant imagine why they would lie to me about it? the guy seemed rather helpful on the phone?
I might give the local Lr dealer a call and ask them to check for me too then?

[Leroy_Riding]

If you are referring to the winch earth lead then guaranteed that will cause a battery voltage problem because the load monitor will be bypassed, although there could also be other reasons.

Even though the winch is not in use at all? just having the lead connected up?

Leroy.

[101RRS]

I cant imagine why they would lie to me about it? the guy seemed rather helpful on the phone?
I might give the local Lr dealer a call and ask them to check for me too then?

Have you looked it up on Topix?? You can do that from the comfort of your own home :)

[Leroy_Riding]

Have you looked it up on Topix?? You can do that from the comfort of your own home :)

Dont you need to be a dealer/independant to use it?
as when you use it as a 'guest' you cant actualy see/do anything much.
especially not search a VIN to see if recalls have been done.

Leroy.

[101RRS]

Dont you need to be a dealer/independant to use it?
as when you use it as a 'guest' you cant actualy see/do anything much.
especially not search a VIN to see if recalls have been done.

Leroy.

No anyone can use it - you just need to register like any other site.

If you are happy posting up your VIN I can look it up for you.

[Leroy_Riding]

No anyone can use it - you just need to register like any other site.

Happy to post the VIN:
SALLAAA138A442703

As far as registration for Topix goes, this part is what made me think I was unable to register.

"Registration
The following conditions must be met:

You are an independent automotive-related service or repair business;
You have given your authority to the individual registering you on the Website to enter into this Agreement on your behalf;
You will fully and accurately complete the online registration form and forward it to Jaguar Land Rover Limited.
Once you have completed and submitted your registration form and Jaguar Land Rover Limited has approved the form and completed the registration process, you will have access to a username / password to enable you to access the Website. Jaguar Land Rover Limited reserves the right to refuse to register users or to decline applications. It is your responsibility to keep your username / password secure at all times and divulge it only to those employees or members of your business who have your authority to access the Website. You will be liable for all transactions and costs incurred on the Website under your password. Jaguar Land Rover Limited cannot be held liable for any losses you suffer or incur as a result of your failure to keep your username/password secure."

Leroy.

[101RRS]

Well I and many others on here have access and we are not dealers. I just went straight to the registration page and it did not ask for business information.

[101RRS]

Happy to post the VIN:
SALLAAA138A442703



"There are currently no outstanding Field Service Actions for this vehicle"

Drive 4 WHL R/H FULL TIME DRIVE CAB style 4 DOOR ESTATE Air conditioning ATC/HIGH OUTPUT AC Transmission 6 SPD AUTO TRANS ZF 6HP26 Engine 2.7L V6 24V DOHC EFI T/C DSL

VIN: SALLAAA138A442703 Build date: 03-May-2007 Model: Discovery 3 / L319 Selling dealer: 03685 Model year: 2008 Warranty start date: 11-Dec-2007
So it looks like any recalls (if they applied) have been done.

Your car was only built 1 month after mine but sold much much later. I would have therefore assumed you VIN is in the recall list. Because my vehicle had never been to a dealer the recalls were missed and I had them done in December 2010.

I found out about them via Topix and when the were done the entry for my car changed to the same as yours

"There are currently no outstanding Field Service Actions for this vehicle"

However a dealer should be able to tell you exactly when the recalls were done (brakes and injector pump) and at which dealer - Topis does not have that information but the dealer network does.

[Leroy_Riding]

"There are currently no outstanding Field Service Actions for this vehicle"

Drive 4 WHL R/H FULL TIME DRIVE CAB style 4 DOOR ESTATE Air conditioning ATC/HIGH OUTPUT AC Transmission 6 SPD AUTO TRANS ZF 6HP26 Engine 2.7L V6 24V DOHC EFI T/C DSL

VIN: SALLAAA138A442703 Build date: 03-May-2007 Model: Discovery 3 / L319 Selling dealer: 03685 Model year: 2008 Warranty start date: 11-Dec-2007
So it looks like any recalls (if they applied) have been done.

Your car was only built 1 month after mine but sold much much later. I would have therefore assumed you VIN is in the recall list. Because my vehicle had never been to a dealer the recalls were missed and I had them done in December 2010.

I found out about them via Topix and when the were done the entry for my car changed to the same as yours

"There are currently no outstanding Field Service Actions for this vehicle"

thanks heaps for that :)

Ill disconnect the Winch and battery isolator and see how I go, it hasn't faulted on me in a few days now. . . seems very intermittent anyway. .

Leroy.

[101RRS]

Note my edit

"However a dealer should be able to tell you exactly when the recalls were done (brakes and injector pump) and at which dealer - Topis does not have that information but the dealer network does. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/668.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/editpost.php'do=editpost&p=2274511)

[Graeme]

Even though the winch is not in use at all? just having the lead connected up?Yes.

[Diverre]

Hello Leroy

Just wondering how you got on with your problem?

I get my D3 services etc at MR and they seem very much on the ball. Hope it went well

Jase

[Leroy_Riding]

Hello Leroy

Just wondering how you got on with your problem?

I get my D3 services etc at MR and they seem very much on the ball. Hope it went well

Jase

It faulted on me 7 times in one night, but since then hasn't had an issue. not sure whats going on.
hopefully something that wont come back again.

Leroy.