Asking the brains trust - What MTB?

[Tombie]

Hey people...

Being built like a 6' Sumo wrestler and working on getting fit I'm looking at getting back into a most enjoyable previous past-time..

For me the benefit is that technology has improved so much its going to be fun... :cool:

So my question... What MTB for a Fat Bar Steward????!!

Must haves:


Front and Rear Suspension (No Hardtails)
Disc Brakes
29"



Be as light as practicable

Want to get fit and enjoy some downhill at Melrose - Not looking to jump 5' in the air, just hammer around having a good time...

Thanks in advance....

[bee utey]

Go to the bike shop at Melrose, hire and try a few different ones out for size. A girl I know who lived nearby until recently did precisely that and was suitably impressed with the guys there. She ended up with a really decent preloved bike in her size.

[rovercare]

Being built like a 6' Sumo wrestler and working on getting fit I'm looking at getting back into a most enjoyable previous past-time..

....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Like that far in the past?

You know down hill mountain biking does not do all that much for fitness, its the uphill part that makes a difference:D

[rovercare]

If you don't wanna be a fat bugger, just quite sugar, simple as that:)

[Vern]

i quit sugar, didn't help me:D

[Blknight.aus]

I'm a fan of the Norco range, I've had mine loaded up with me and a pack with a total weight that would have been giving 150kg a scare.

[Tombie]

I'm a fan of the Norco range, I've had mine loaded up with me and a pack with a total weight that would have been giving 150kg a scare.


I already give 150kg a scare :(

[Tombie]

If you don't wanna be a fat bugger, just quite sugar, simple as that:)


Yeah, done that - lost 20kg and still a LONG way to go...

[Tombie]

http://www.etatrust.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/handlebar-moustache.jpg

Like that far in the past?

You know down hill mountain biking does not do all that much for fitness, its the uphill part that makes a difference:D


Agree...

Want to be able to do both!

[isuzurover]

You said 29" and downhill in the same post... That reminded me of this quote from another forum:


A 29er on a true DH course is a bit like eating your dinner with a spork. Yes, it will work. No, it's not as enjoyable. And yes, your friends will probably make fun of you.

If you want to have fun and get fit - with a bit of downhill thrown in - then I would be looking at an "All Mountain" or "4x" - type bike.

e.g. I ride one of these (bought 2nd hand)
Santa Cruz Bicycles | Blur 4x (http://www.santacruzbikes.co.uk/site2009/bicycles_archive/blur4x.html)

The equivalent in a new bike would probably be:
Bikes » Bronson | Santa Cruz Bikes UK (http://www.santacruzbikes.co.uk/Bronson/)

It depends how much you want to spend. Norco / Giant and Specialized are all reasonable value for money in new bikes as they are volume manufacturers. EDIT: also Kona

[Blknight.aus]

I already give 150kg a scare :(

Don't carry a backpack then

[isuzurover]

Whichever bike you buy, the rear shock will need revalving if you want it to work properly and last.

[Tombie]

Whichever bike you buy, the rear shock will need revalving if you want it to work properly and last.


I'm guessing to suit my extra mass...

[Dougal]

Whichever bike you buy, the rear shock will need revalving if you want it to work properly and last.
Honestly most rear shocks are just going to suck themselves full of air under any normal hard use anyway.

So just ride the shock until it goes all slurpy, then get whoever services it for you to add another 100psi to the floating piston pressure when they're done.

Most fox shocks now are foregoing any useful shock valving to give more external modes. Like ctd. There is virtually nothing worth doing to them as far as revalving. They don't even have high speed rebound ports.

[bsperka]

Asked a bloke at work who is into MTB in a big way. Giant Anthem 27.5 or Norco with similar spec is a good starting point. Rrp around 2600, negotiate at least 10 pc off; more at eoy / model year changeovers. Giant has lifetime on the frame.

Look up facebook for mountain bike buy / sell if looking for secondhand.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Why not a hard tail? I'm now very light, and I've had problem after problem with my dualie.

As someone who started out as a big guy, lots of people come to me for advice. I recommend 29er hard tails now. Cheap, and usually robust. I have recommended hybrids but they generally aren't built strong enough. Bikes seem to suffer exponentially as the rider increases in weight.

I think that whatever bike you buy now won't be the bike you'll want in 12 months. If you really stick at it your body will be very very different, and the bike probably worn out. So just go something cheap and durable for a starter and worry about what will suit you later - later. :)

Expect that whatever you buy will probably need attention to the wheels - and you may need custom wheels if you have troubles.

[bikeman]

Hi, from your question you seem to be looking for a bike that will climb as well as descend, hence the trail/all mountain suggestions. I would also suggest the new(ish) wheel size of 275 (or 650B). At present I don't think there is a bad bike on the market, all the bike companies are producing some truly awesome bits of kit. I would be looking at something with 140/150mm of travel a slacker head angle, 275 wheel set and possibly a slightly lower bottom bracket. The slacker head angle will help when things get gravity, with adjustable travel dropping the forks and rear shock will help climbing and 275 is a great compromise between 26 & 29" wheels. I
would suggest a Giant Trance, possibly Trance x. Giant produce some amazing bikes with excellent choice of components and well priced. Good luck with your search, check out the 2nd hand market for your first bike.Cheers, Phil

[awabbit6]

Why not a hard tail? I'm now very light, and I've had problem after problem with my dualie.

As someone who started out as a big guy, lots of people come to me for advice. I recommend 29er hard tails now. Cheap, and usually robust. I have recommended hybrids but they generally aren't built strong enough. Bikes seem to suffer exponentially as the rider increases in weight.

I think that whatever bike you buy now won't be the bike you'll want in 12 months. If you really stick at it your body will be very very different, and the bike probably worn out. So just go something cheap and durable for a starter and worry about what will suit you later - later. :)

Expect that whatever you buy will probably need attention to the wheels - and you may need custom wheels if you have troubles.

Exactly what I was going to post!

I've been riding my 26" Cube hard tail now for 3 years. I wanted a dual suspension bike but a mate of mine suggested that for general/fitness riding a hard tail is perfect - he was absolutely correct.

Hard tails are cheaper and you should be able to get a good one second hand now that everyone is upgrading to 29". That will get you fitter and lighter. After that you will have a good idea about whether you need something new and what to get to suit your riding.

Incidentally, I bought my bike second hand (but as new) from a big bloke who went out and bought an expensive bike to lose weight and get fit ... and then gave up. eBay is full of similar stories!
Whatever you get, enjoy it and stick with it!

[BigBlackDog]

I would vote Giant, nothing against other brands but I have never had any problems with Giant frames. I had when I was in school an aluminium hard tail Giant, supposedly a cross country frame. I rode the hell out of it for years and years, over all manner of painful things, Pringled many a rim. Frame still good! I just got a 26" trance and I love it, I'm only small.
giant have thrown all their R and D into the 27.5" wheel size, I would go for that if it was around when I got mine. I reckon that will be the dominant size in coming years if the manufacturers have any knowledge of their market. giant Reign is good for bombing downhill but still not too bad to pedal back up, 6" of bOunce at rack end

[mattg]

I love my KONA hard tail Awesome balance and bargain second hand at the moment. I'm 6'1 and it handled my 115kg no problem.

[bee utey]

My 26" Jamis hard tail has given me 12 good years of heavy service, now fitted with Shimano hydraulic calipers and a 203mm front disc. Recently I fitted a Thudbuster seat post which makes it even better as an all round bush basher. Set up similarly to this example from the 'net:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/216.jpg

[Tombie]

You've all provided great insights and suggestions, thanks!

[Andrew D]

Some inspiration. If you have a problem with heights it's probably not ideal to watch.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/xQ_IQS3VKjA

Regards
Andrew

[Tombie]

Some inspiration. If you have a problem with heights it's probably not ideal to watch.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/xQ_IQS3VKjA

Regards
Andrew

Watched a few of Dannys videos... Got some talent for sure...

[Tombie]

We quite regularly go to Melrose so dropped in to OverTheEdge again today...

Just started paying one of these off...

Knolly Warden 650b
96917

96918

[Slunnie]

I'm not sure what the go is these days, but we used to call them XC (Cross-country) which is probably XC or trail etc these days. I've always used air shocks for suspension, just get a shock pump and pump up to suit. Look for a bike with triple or double rings on the crank rather than any single ring setup, you will need the spread of gears to climb, descend and do the technical stuff despite cassettes the size of a dinner plate on the rear. I would avoid a Downhill or freeride bike, they're really not what you're looking for if you're looking to build fitness etc on it. Just be aware that riding down hill and riding "downhill" are two exceptionally different things to a MTB rider!!! I think you'll also prefer the duallie over the hardtail, they're heavier but a nicer ride with less fatigue if you're riding cross country and you spend less time out of the saddle avoiding getting your ass smashed. For brakes, test them as there are brakes and there are brakes. You should be able to modulate easily, brake with one finger, stand it on the front wheel and lock the rear all without the lever feeling spongie or pulling down to the handle bar. For materials, carbon is the cream of the crop then Ally, Cromo and then steel. I doubt you'll see titanium. Gears, my preference is Shimano, some like SRAM. They should all be good these days and will do the trick. Unless you're racing, choose based on numbers of gears rather than looking for top of the line as the difference is generally a few grams of weight with the exception of chains where it is life related.

[bsperka]

Get the latest MTB to haves. Electronic shifters, electric lock outs on the shocks (so you can have soft or hard tail), wireless computer, GPS etc. So you feel at home diagnosing electronic faults on your bike, as well as your car....
And the low gear range is called "granny" gears...

[JoeFriend]

Get a burly bike, either something all mountain or enduro. Don't get a downhill bike, waste of money unless you are doing pure downhill - they are useless for anything else.

Don't get an XC bike. No offense, but if you are 150 it won't work for you. Anything with around 150-160 mm of travel front and back will be fine.

Lots of bikes at that level, depends on how much you want to spend really.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[Tombie]

Get the latest MTB to haves. Electronic shifters, electric lock outs on the shocks (so you can have soft or hard tail), wireless computer, GPS etc. So you feel at home diagnosing electronic faults on your bike, as well as your car....
And the low gear range is called "granny" gears...


I've been looking at all that and smiling- my gadget obsession wants it all :)