Rebuilt 4.0 V8 no oil pressure

[rmalpas]

Have rebiult my 4.0 V8 and despite all new components just cant get any oil pressure on crank over. I removed cleaned and replaced the oil pressure releif valve and fitted a new set of oil pump gears properly lubed with vaseline and engine oil, was no wear on the old gears ( it must have been replaced at some point) have spent thousands on trhe motor and dont really want to start it till I know I have pressure. I pumped oil down the oil sender hole which seemed to end up just going straight to the sump as the level on the dipstick rose.... any ideas on what I can do without pulling the front off the motor and lowering the sump would be much appreciated..... am using a mechanical oil guage that connects into the sender hole.

Cheers

[p38arover]

Try removing the gauge and leaving the hole open and then crank the engine - just in case the gauge is faulty. See if you get oil flow out of the hole. It may well be messy!

[PhilipA]

Log shot but I seem to recall the timing cover gasket for a 3.9 and 4.0 are different, one having a blocked hole . Maybe worth checking whether each gallery has a corresponding hole.

maybe after other avenues mentioned are tried.
Regards Philip A

[p38arover]

If you are right Philip, that could be a nasty trap! Certainly worth looking into.

I recall some 300Tdi head gaskets didn't have a hole for the oil to go up into the head. (Pretty sure it was the 300 Tdi, I was helping with a rebuild where the mechanic discovered that.)

[Scouse]

Log shot but I seem to recall the timing cover gasket for a 3.9 and 4.0 are different, one having a blocked hole . Maybe worth checking whether each gallery has a corresponding hole.

maybe after other avenues mentioned are tried.
Regards Philip AI came across that when doing a camshaft on my old 3.5 injected motor. The later gasket had a hole offset that caused the oil pump to suck air instead of oil.

[justinc]

Yes, the ERR7280 is the correct part for serpentine belt engines, if you use the early one Err4936 you are left with a air leak due to an uncovered hole.

JC

[101RRS]

Log shot but I seem to recall the timing cover gasket for a 3.9 and 4.0 are different, one having a blocked hole . Maybe worth checking whether each gallery has a corresponding hole.

Last week I put the timing cover on the 4.0/4.6 I am building - I wish I had know about this before hand - now I am wondering if I am going to have the same problem when I go to fire her up.

Garry

[Roverlord off road spares]

Last week I put the timing cover on the 4.0/4.6 I am building - I wish I had know about this before hand - now I am wondering if I am going to have the same problem when I go to fire her up.

Garry
Check the part number you used it ill tell all.

[lewy]

I had something similar after an oil change, no oil pressure,All i could find pointed to new oil pumps needing to be packed heavilly with vasaline not just smeared on.

[rmalpas]

should have been correct gasket, gears packed with vaseline Turner engineering reckons this is common and to start it and it should get oil pressure quickly... seems risky but might be worth a try at least for 30 seconds... everything was well lubed on assembly. Have removed oil sender but no oil spurts out...

[rmalpas]

Checked gasket part no on the invoice at least ( unless they sold me the wrong one) and it was correct, I really took time lubing the oil gears with vaseline...with the 4.0 its not easy to remove the rocker covers alla intake manifolds..the fact I get no oil spurting out of the sender I doubt its getting up to the rockers... will keep everyone updated.

[101RRS]

Check the part number you used it ill tell all.

The gasket kit was put together by a local supplier and as I understand it where parts are common is a mix of 3.9 and 4.0 gaskets - just hope they put the right bits in.

garry

[jskerm]

Just finished rebuilding mine last week, no oil pressure for about 2 to 3 seconds after firing it up and engine very rattly, then bang, oil came through the system and motor quietened right down. Straight up to 2500 rpm to bed in rings, cam etc.
Not a good idea to keep cranking trying to get oil pressure as you want everything to bed in at a few revs. Just kick it in the guts and if you don't get oil pressure within 5 seconds shut her off. If you've lubed everything on assembly you can run it for a while before you do to much damage...

[Phil B]

and be prepared for the longest 5 seconds of your life!!
Phil

[rmalpas]

It was a long few seconds a bit more than four too but not by much ..Phil you are right but heres the full story.....
Ok well after all sorts of advise, I created a pressure vessel that I had about 350ml of oil in ( it was an old small halon fire extinguisher bottle) put 60psi of air into it and had a valve on the other end , I attached it under pressure to an extension hose I have off the oil pressure sender outlet ( it actually has a tee with the sender in it an the hose comming off for a VDO pressure sender). I cranked it over and had somone open the valve to allow the oil to flow under pressure into the tee where the oil sender is and walla while cranking the oil light went of for about 2 seconds. I reckoned it could get pressure just cranking wasnt fast enough so connected the ECU ( it was disconnected to stop the injectors firing fuel while cranking) put the spark plugs back in an fired her up it took around 6 seconds for the oil light to go off now at 2000rpm I have about 4 bar which I thought was a bit high... i.e 58psi... anyway engine runs so will need to add some cam/zinz (zpdm or whatever it is) additive and run it for 30 mins at around 2-2500rpm then oil an filter change... sort out dodgy clucth issue why the pedal is sitting on the floor despite new master and slave cylinder..onto the next few steps...

[Phil B]

First you complain about no oil pressure, then you complain about too much !!
Some people are never satisfied!!

ONLY JOKING. well done. You can stop holding your breath now.....

Phil.

[101RRS]

Check the part number you used it ill tell all.


The gasket kit was put together by a local supplier and as I understand it where parts are common is a mix of 3.9 and 4.0 gaskets - just hope they put the right bits in.

garry

This is the provided gasket kit - includes sump, water pump, timing cover crank seals and a few other things. Looks like 3.9 stuff not 4.0.

As a precaution it might be worth me getting a new gasket and replacing the one I have.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=87436&d=1416653497

[101RRS]

Ok - now confused.:confused:

I went to get a 4.0 timing cover gasket just in case I had the 3.9 version as I suspect - see above pic.

The seller looked up the part numbers and said the 3.9 and the 4.0/4.6 has exactly the same part number and it is because he showed me them on the system. They said they only stock the same part for both engines.

So totally confused.

Because the engine is on the engine stand with only the timing cover on it, I would rather check the gasket now rather when it is in the vehicle and have no oil pressure - so I will pull the cover and check that no holes are blocked.

Garry

[rmalpas]

I just checked on Microcat and for a RR P38A and Discovery 4.0 ( cant think what else that engine would have come in) the gasket is ERR7280, I also looked up STC2823 and this is for the 3.9 motor. So there is defeinetly two part no's in microcat which is what the parts supplier SHOULD be using. Check this yourself at the Russian microcat site Landrover Parts Catalog (http://lrparts.net.ru/) if you dont have it installed. Cheers
Raymond

[rmalpas]

Just looking at that gasket set Garry there shouldnt be any cork gaskets on a 4.0? there certainly wasnt any in mine.... just something to be aware of if you arnt already.

Good luck on the biuld.

PS I do have a few seals, o rings etc whwer I accidently doubled up PM me if you might be interested.

Cheers
Raymond

[101RRS]

Thanks Raymond - the STC2823 number is the kit number not the individual timing cover gasket.

Yes - I know about the sump gasket - the correct one is in the complete gasket kit - compilation of the various kits.

Thanks for the offer of odd bits but I already have more than I need.

Cheers

Garry

[rmalpas]

Cheers Garry best of luck with everything I enjoyed my rebiuld am hoping to do a road test tomorrow then a RWC ( I bought mine in NSW and the rebiuld came out of what started as leaky oil seals) remember to use good oil with enough ZDTP and frequent changes. Landrover only serviced mine every 20K and as a result the cam , lifters etc were shot.
Its great to see I am not the only person who thinks the V8's are worth rebiulding and keeping on the road so many get scrapped for want of some engine work.

Raymond