Fuel system bleeding tips

[cummo]

Hi All,
As a diesel newbie I've replaced the spin-on fuel filter and bled air out of the system as per the One Ten Owners Manual direction once before just after purchasing my Perentie.
This time around I was planning to dismantle and clean the sedimenter as well as replacing the filter again.
When I replaced the fuel filter I filled it with diesel prior to installing into the housing to reduce the amount of fuel that had to be pumped up into the upper section of the fuel system in the bleeding process.
I was assuming that the bottom half of the sedimenter should ideally be simmilarly filled with diesel when re-installing it into the upper body of the sedimenter?
Presumably then when both sedimenter and filter are installed filled, operating the primer pump (a new Bosch one) will to displace any air in the sedimenter and filter housings out to the bleeding points (from memory the top banjo of the filter housing and at the injector pump). Am I on the right track?
Any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Dave

[Davehoos]

sedimenter is on the suction side of the priming pump. and fuel filter after. often there are filters in lift pump inlet. the pressure control [relief] valve on the IP return often wont let air return to the tank. if it passes air it wont require bleed screws to be open.


All air in the sedimenter and suction hose must be pumped through the priming pump and fuel filter. you need some fuel in the priming pump to get the valves to seal so leave the fuel filter off or loose till fuel has been pumped up to it or use air pressure TO TEST FOR LEAKS..


sedimenter fitted on a Perentie is connected reverse to civilian vehicles and the direction arrows on the housing. in through the center and out on the outside. there should will be very little air in the housing.it can be replaced with a fuel filter housing if required.

[rar110]

It should be self bleeding, well mine is. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

I wipe the seals for the spinon filter and sedimenter with vaso to help them bed in. I think the sedimenter is a great bit of kit. It picks up larger particles and saves the spin on.

I have an inline 20 micron filter before the lift pump to prevent blockages.

[mattmac]

What type of 20 micron filter did you use?
It should be self bleeding, well mine is. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

I wipe the seals for the spinon filter and sedimenter with vaso to help them bed in. I think the sedimenter is a great bit of kit. It picks up larger particles and saves the spin on.

I have an inline 20 micron filter before the lift pump to prevent blockages.

[Chris078]

. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

Neither do I.
fill both the sedimenter and filter with diesel, crack open the bleed screw on top of the filter housing, pump it a few times till air stops bubbling out, tighten up screw, clean up the mess and done.

IIRC the primer pump is replacable? anyone done that? Mine leaks like a sieve when priming, which is annoying and makes a mess.
If it's relatively easy, I may replace it to save the once a year clean of the diff/axle.

[mattmac]

Do yourself a favour and get one of those generic bosch ones on ebay for around $20 -works a treat and no more mess!
. I don't bother loosening injector return lines.

Neither do I.
fill both the sedimenter and filter with diesel, crack open the bleed screw on top of the filter housing, pump it a few times till air stops bubbling out, tighten up screw, clean up the mess and done.

IIRC the primer pump is replacable? anyone done that? Mine leaks like a sieve when priming, which is annoying and makes a mess.
If it's relatively easy, I may replace it to save the once a year clean of the diff/axle.

[Blknight.aus]

assuming there are no leaks or blockages, that replacing the filter or fixing those leaks is why you have to bleed the thing in the first place.

heres how I do it when Im in a "gotta get it going fast and screw the book" bleed method.

Crack the bleed line on the top of the filter
crack the bleed screw on the injector pump
Crack the #1 injector line on the injector

pump like buggery on the manual pump till the fuel turns up at the fuel filter, close that while you keep pumping slowly

pump until fuel comes out the bleed screw on the injector pump, close that secure the manual pump.

hold it flat crank it till you see the #1 injector spitting, if it starts let it idle if it will, if it stalls dont panic. Close #1 injector union.

If it was Idling it will now keep running and should smooth out, if it doesnt hold it at 1000-1500 rpm till it does. If it stalled, hold it pinned and crank it till it starts then try to hold 1000-1500 rpm. Once thats happened slowly back the idle down to normal idle.

Safety gear poeple, eye wear as a minimum gloves and rags and all sort of other stuff. Its a 4bd1, it eats the heavy steel in the LT95 for breakfast and chews up drive line bits including 8ha slasbury rear ends. Your flesh and bone wont even pass as an apertief. while its not Common rail pressures in the injector on it its still enough to make you very very not happy with yourself if you do something dumb.

[Chris078]

Do yourself a favour and get one of those generic bosch ones on ebay for around $20 -works a treat and no more mess!


got a link? Is it a pump that goes into the fuel pump, or a separate thing?

[Blknight.aus]

if you're only trying to bleed it up after changing the filter and you havent prefilled the filter (which is the correct thing to do let no one tell you other wise)
Fill the tank, make sure the battery is charged, if you've got a jump pack or a slaving vehicle hook that up too
Pull the jesus fuse from the fuel cut wind motor
crank the engine on the starter till the oil light goes out. crank for 5 more seconds
put the jesus fuse back
set full fuel (step on the loud pedal hold it on the floor)
start it.
hold it pinned it'll die down, if you got it right it'll pick up again hold 1500 RPM till it runs smoothly
IF it stalls... hold it pinned, crank it till it burns.

[Blknight.aus]

got a link? Is it a pump that goes into the fuel pump, or a separate thing?

just about any 12V facet style pump will do the job. make a recirc hose for the existing priming pump and just plumb the 12v Facet pump in place. wire it off of the feed for the fuel cut wind motor

Electric Fuel Pump 12 Volt Solid State 4 TO 6PSI 130 LPH Petrol Facet Universal | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/121712037041?limghlpsr=true&hlpht=true&ul_noapp=true&hlpv=2&chn=ps&lpid=107&ops=true&viphx=1)

thats the one you want. the existing lift pump will pull through it for normal engine running so you can plumb one in place in front of the lift pump and just use it to prime as required.

[mattmac]

Just go to ebay and get one of these- BOSCH Genuine Primer Hand Oil Diesel Fuel Feed Pump 2447010038 2447222126 . Also the original primer pump is very difficult to unscrew because large spanner size and no room to actually turn it so i used so multi grips instead- the bosch one is much easier to tighten as smaller spanner size- i think 17mm from memory.
got a link? Is it a pump that goes into the fuel pump, or a separate thing?

[Chris078]

Just go to ebay and get one of these- BOSCH Genuine Primer Hand Oil Diesel Fuel Feed Pump 2447010038 2447222126 . Also the original primer pump is very difficult to unscrew because large spanner size and no room to actually turn it so i used so multi grips instead- the bosch one is much easier to tighten as smaller spanner size- i think 17mm from memory.


So, this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-Genuine-Primer-Hand-Oil-Diesel-Fuel-Feed-Pump-2447010038-2447222126-/320779212433?hash=item4aafee5691:g:j2YAAOxyrrpTgH1 Y) one?

[mattmac]

that's the one- you may as well clean the plastic mesh filter below lift pump if you havent done it yet.
So, this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-Genuine-Primer-Hand-Oil-Diesel-Fuel-Feed-Pump-2447010038-2447222126-/320779212433?hash=item4aafee5691:g:j2YAAOxyrrpTgH1 Y) one?

[Bearman]

Definitely clean this one on a yearly basis.

[Chris078]

that's the one- you may as well clean the plastic mesh filter below lift pump if you havent done it yet.


Still have to get around to that. I have to work out exactly which bolt to undo to access that filter. I'm reasonably confident about some things, but undoing stuff on a diesel fuel pump is not one of them, so I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing before I do it.

[Phil B]

Still have to get around to that. I have to work out exactly which bolt to undo to access that filter. I'm reasonably confident about some things, but undoing stuff on a diesel fuel pump is not one of them, so I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing before I do it.



Chris,
IMO most 4BD1 fuel supply related issues revolve around this little screen/filter.
There are several threads on here about it. Search Perentie lift pump filter.
It is a small plastic screen that hides under the inlet banjo nut on the lift pump, which is almost inside the drivers side engine mount. 17mm from memory.
It is fiddly but not difficult to remove and clean.


Regards,

[mattmac]

Even though it's in a difficult to access location it's really quite easy once you know how- it only takes me about 5 mins- no need to get under the vehicle but maybe put a catch tray underneath in case you drop the bolt/filter -use a short 17mm spanner to loosen the nut and then use your fingers to unscrew and try to hold the bottom of it when it's near the end of the thread- once out unscrew plastic mesh filter and clean/blow out and refit -preferably with new sealing washers.
Still have to get around to that. I have to work out exactly which bolt to undo to access that filter. I'm reasonably confident about some things, but undoing stuff on a diesel fuel pump is not one of them, so I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing before I do it.

[Chris078]

Even though it's in a difficult to access location it's really quite easy once you know how- it only takes me about 5 mins- no need to get under the vehicle but maybe put a catch tray underneath in case you drop the bolt/filter -use a short 17mm spanner to loosen the nut and then use your fingers to unscrew and try to hold the bottom of it when it's near the end of the thread- once out unscrew plastic mesh filter and clean/blow out and refit -preferably with new sealing washers.


If someone could take a photo and circle the correct nut, I'd be most grateful!
Seeing as she's laid up until my new headlights arrive, now is as good a time as any to do it.

[mattmac]

it's the one underneath the lift pump -in the narrow gap between the engine mount.

[87County]

Plenty of pics here ...

I put full instructions in post #26 of the below-linked thread

note the screw thread on the filter

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/114440-isuzu-fuel-pump-died.html#post2094269

[Aussie Jeepster]

Is there a part number or any dimensions for the washer for this bolt?