View Full Version : HELP! P38 Won't Start :(
adelaide_rrp38
30th November 2014, 11:34 AM
Hi Guys,
I have a 98 P38 that won't start and I'm pretty sure I need a Syncmate but really need one ASAP - Anyone in Adelaide willing to *hire* it to me?
TheTree
30th November 2014, 12:28 PM
You could search this thread for someone with diagnostics
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/51189-members-diagnostic-equipment.html
Are there any messages coming up?
Steve
PeterH
30th November 2014, 03:04 PM
Could you give a little bit more detail, might help us help you!
Is it turning over ok? Does it fire at all? Are you getting any error messages?
Sometimes a battery on the way out can cause starting problems, the P38 needs a good strong battery to run everything, specially when starting.
That can also cause weird error messages, like gear box failure, loss of traction, things like that.
adelaide_rrp38
30th November 2014, 07:01 PM
So...
Has been running fine, parked last night - Went to start this morning, and it's throwing an ABS error and the Check Engine Light isn't coming on (which is why I believe it's a Sync issue).
The battery is a big one (850CCA) and is in pretty good nick - everything else comes on as it should minus the CEL and it doesn't try to start :(
I'm Devo as it's been a beautiful car for the last 2 years and now I may not be able to go home for xmas with my family
TheTree
30th November 2014, 07:29 PM
Just a thought but have you checked the maxi-fuses in the fuse box under the bonnet?
One of them may have blown
Steve
PeterH
30th November 2014, 07:55 PM
Am I right in saying you turn the key and nothing happens?
Does it unlock ok with the remote key fob, or do you have to manually unlock the door?
I'm wondering if it might be an immobilizer problem.
If it were me, the first thing I would check is the battery terminals, make sure they are clean and the connections are tight.
Then put a multimeter on the battery and see if it reads above 12.6 volts at rest.
Maybe try a jump start to see if the extra voltage gets things going.
If none of that works, probably best to hook it up to some type of diagnostic equipment to see if that gives you any clues.
Good luck with it!
imatt
30th November 2014, 09:07 PM
Is the gear selector in park position? Sounds stupid but I got caught out once in my d2, parked up left in drive came back wouldn't start, opened bonnet and all looking for blown fuse etc, then realised selector was still in drive (I still prefer manuals 90% of the time)
adelaide_rrp38
30th November 2014, 09:54 PM
Deff in Park, Everything lights up AOK, Battery tests fine - I need to know if anyone has had experience with that sync tool from blackbox... or does someone want to buy the beast haha
wayneg
30th November 2014, 10:53 PM
Why do you think you need a sync mate?
You need to do a few basic checks to help yourself.
The ABS warning light comes on with the ignition, only goes off once the car reaches 15kph so is irrelevant
Does the engine turn over when you turn the key?
Is there a spark at the plugs?
Is there fuel at the fuel rail?
Any errors, a simple OBD2 reader will show most engine faults.
Could be a multitude of things, you need check the basics 1st
glenhendry
2nd December 2014, 07:38 AM
Agree with Wayneg. You need to tell us if she cranks. Then check spark and fuel at the engine, both are easy to do. If no spark then suspect Crank sensor. If no fuel, suspect relays, fuses, fuel pump and then fusebox in that order.
Note that fuel does not need to be spurting out of the fuel rail schraeder valve, and sometimes you can NOT hear the fuel pump running.
Last weekend my 2000 4.6 cranked but wouldn't start and I suspected fuel because I couldn't hear the pump running under the back seat and hardly any fuel came out of the fuel rail schraeder valve, but in the end it was CKP stopping spark.
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